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  1. #1
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    Question Slash w/ short a-arms (aka fiesta), MIP X-duty?

    Hey Traxxas Folks,

    After a couple months of reading awesome posts, I've finally decided to join the board. My current build is the VR fiesta rally. I figure hey, its technically a lcg slash w/ telluride a-arms right, might as well post on a more active board. The goal of this build is to make a scale B-class rally basher (peugeot or lancia body lined up) (WRC; legendary semi-out of control offroad speed with tight precise turns). I've been working a track in my backyard geared toward this style (a narrow hybrid of rally running/short-coarse circuit w/ tight turns).

    Anyway, I smoked the 550 12T and began the bushless transition with the following parts;

    -CC MM2 2650kv combo w/ HW C4 heatsink/fan
    -strc alum center driveshaft (maybe tekno bb in the near future?)
    -x-01 diff guts (I-bar) w/ 100k oil in f/ and r/
    - 32p revo slipper conversion (stock 18/54 gears, thinkin' lower pinion fer turq)
    -2s & 3s lipos (for now)

    I'm planning to get a couple more alum parts (ie c /steering blocks, HR bearing MM) but I'll wait till break n burn stuff, B class style! So, my first set of questions to christen this new profile are;

    -My A-arms need to be stock slash to fit MIP xduty axles right? Any alternatives to swapping a-arms?

    -Are the traxxas gtr shocks good for lightly bumpy dirt trails/ tight turns? I heard they sit lower. Will they lower my clearance (none to spare) by much compared to the stock ultras? PL powerstrokes maybe?

    Feel free to chime in with any other suggestions that would make this bushless overhaul go smoother... or if you have any setup ideas. I'll be posting some pics once I get all the parts lined up, and really start plugging away at the build/tweaking.

    Thanks!

    -Jim-Beezy
    Last edited by Jim-Beezy; 01-14-2020 at 11:12 AM.

  2. #2
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    Welcome! Nice build project.

    - MIP do have the X-Duty's for the Fiesta Rally:
    https://www.miponline.com/MIP-X-Duty...s-Bandit-18390
    https://www.miponline.com/19390-MIP-...iesta-ST-Rally

    - The GTR shocks are great, and have the same lengths as the Ultra shocks. I use Losi Ten front springs f/r (LOSB2959) on my Slash 4x4's with GTR's.

    - Do not forget to swap the plastic slipper clutch adapter with one in alu or brass. I use the Robinson Racing 7852 (longer than stock to seat the larger 10x19x5mm motor mount bearing in the King Headz mount properly).

    - It's recommended to get an alu motor mount with a larger bearing (Hot Racing LCF38X06, King Headz TRX7460).

    - I'll definately recommend the Tekno Big Bone center shaft. The front outdrive rubs a little on the chassis, but that's an easy fix with a Dremel.

    - I also recommend the RPM front bulk head (RPM 73562).
    Last edited by Viking; 01-14-2020 at 12:20 PM.

  3. #3
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    ditch the stock 2056 servo if you haven’t already

    I recently converted a sl4sh vxl to use telluride/fiesta arms+rally bumpers+fiesta body I snagged. if you want adjustable camberlinks and steering toe links, use 2443 rear, 2445 front, 3745 toe links

    The stock tires are 4 inches tall, so you can get a little more clearance by raising the body a few mm and use slash 4x4 tires. My favorite for this combo is proline street fighter for street, and Mx sc for dirt and all around off road.
    Last edited by TwoBelugas; 01-14-2020 at 12:28 PM.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Viking View Post
    Welcome! Nice build project.

    - MIP do have the X-Duty's for the Fiesta Rally:
    https://www.miponline.com/MIP-X-Duty...s-Bandit-18390
    https://www.miponline.com/19390-MIP-...iesta-ST-Rally

    - The GTR shocks are great, and have the same lengths as the Ultra shocks. I use Losi Ten front springs f/r (LOSB2959) on my Slash 4x4's with GTR's.

    - Do not forget to swap the plastic slipper clutch adapter with one in alu or brass. I use the Robinson Racing 7852 (longer than stock to seat the larger 10x19x5mm motor mount bearing in the King Headz mount properly).

    - It's recommended to get an alu motor mount with a larger bearing (Hot Racing LCF38X06, King Headz TRX7460).

    - I'll definately recommend the Tekno Big Bone center shaft. The front outdrive rubs a little on the chassis, but that's an easy fix with a Dremel.

    - I also recommend the RPM front bulk head (RPM 73562).

    Thanks Viking! I guess I should've done a little more digging on the MIP website LOL

    I've heard of a bunch of people running losi springs and saying they work well (might get that spring tuning kit). I'm glad to hear they fit the gtrs... after some research I think I'm swayed to go with traxxas in the shock department.

    Yes, I'm surprised I managed to remembered to get the alum bushing for the clutch adapter while ordering the new esc/motor. As for the tekno BB, I might just wait and give the srtc alum shaft a go. I don't have a dremel, but maybe the shaft I have now will bore out the chassis after a a couple runs .

    If anything I'll definitely snag the HR motor mount as my next alum upgrade!

    Its funny, I was just looking at that exact bulkhead the other day.... have you had any problems with rocks/dirt getting trapped up there and messing with your servo horn while bashing? I saw some folks cutting ("modding") the sides of those to prevent that from happening.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoBelugas View Post
    ditch the stock 2056 servo if you haven’t already

    I recently converted a sl4sh vxl to use telluride/fiesta arms+rally bumpers+fiesta body I snagged. if you want adjustable camberlinks and steering toe links, use 2443 rear, 2445 front, 3745 toe links

    The stock tires are 4 inches tall, so you can get a little more clearance by raising the body a few mm and use slash 4x4 tires. My favorite for this combo is proline street fighter for street, and Mx sc for dirt and all around off road.
    Two Belugas,

    Good to know...I take that the plastic gears in the stock servo lead to problems? Which servo do you recommend? 2075X?

    And yes I'm definitely planning on adjusting the suspension setup. Those stock plastic toes have been on the chopping block since day one( well besides the brushed motor). Thanks for the part list for the the camber/toe links.

    Those badlands tires look super mean!!! I can only dream of the dirt they throw. I have raised the body a couple inches and was surprised by the amount wheel well room. Should I, at some point, invest in this if I wanted to get the completed rim and tire?

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/traxxas...iABEgKfh_D_BwE

  6. #6
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    He, he, I didn't even think about the servo - maybe I tought it goes without saying...?

    I ran for a long time Power HD WP23KG servos. They work great but are a little on the slow side, so I now use Power HD B3 and Storm 3 servos. But to my knowledge they don't work with TSM, if that is important to you?

    And, no I haven't had problems with stones getting caught inside the RPM bulkhead. But I usually don't drive in a gravel pit.

    One other thing: The sway bar kit is also worth considering (Traxxas 6898). I usually run the black (hard) sway bar only on the rear, but that's a personal preference.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim-Beezy View Post
    Two Belugas,

    Good to know...I take that the plastic gears in the stock servo lead to problems? Which servo do you recommend? 2075X?

    And yes I'm definitely planning on adjusting the suspension setup. Those stock plastic toes have been on the chopping block since day one( well besides the brushed motor). Thanks for the part list for the the camber/toe links.

    Those badlands tires look super mean!!! I can only dream of the dirt they throw. I have raised the body a couple inches and was surprised by the amount wheel well room. Should I, at some point, invest in this if I wanted to get the completed rim and tire?

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/traxxas...iABEgKfh_D_BwE
    Proline sells the badlands Mx mounted for 12mm hex. 17mm adapters come with offsets so I don’t have first hand data for the fiesta body set up if it will rub.

    I like the 2075r that traxxas uses with their slash ultimates, it works fine, however you can get anything from an eBay 20kg budget one or savox, hitec, the sky is the limit.

  8. #8
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    Viking, thanks for the servo recommendations. I guess I've got some shopping/ research to do.

    I figured I'd ask about the bulkhead, it's pretty rocky living on a mountain...trust me I'm a geologist. I really do like how it protects the servo or, I should say, the new servo.

    I thought sways bars was an onroad thing? Having the sway in the rear in helps with cornering offroad as well?

  9. #9
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    Two Belugas,

    Sweet I found some mounted 12mm hex badlands. The trenchers also look pretty good as well.

    I think I could stomach the $60 pricetage on the 2075r. The big takeaway on the servo upgrade is durability anndddd..STEERING POWERRRR!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim-Beezy View Post
    Viking, thanks for the servo recommendations. I guess I've got some shopping/ research to do.

    I figured I'd ask about the bulkhead, it's pretty rocky living on a mountain...trust me I'm a geologist. I really do like how it protects the servo or, I should say, the new servo.

    I thought sways bars was an onroad thing? Having the sway in the rear in helps with cornering offroad as well?
    sway bars help with body roll. When the outside wheel compresses, the the bar helps push the inside wheel down.
    In a dirt/ off road situation a stiff sway bar can actually make the rear looser and more drift happy .

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim-Beezy View Post
    Two Belugas,

    Sweet I found some mounted 12mm hex badlands. The trenchers also look pretty good as well.

    I think I could stomach the $60 pricetage on the 2075r. The big takeaway on the servo upgrade is durability anndddd..STEERING POWERRRR!
    Look on eBay, brand new take off 2075r goes for 35 or so

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoBelugas View Post
    Look on eBay, brand new take off 2075r goes for 35 or so
    Normal “blue” 2075 are about $18 on Jenny’s right now . $27-29 for the black metal gear 2075R
    https://jennysrc.com/products/trx-4-...30783e61&_ss=r

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dakratfink View Post
    Normal “blue” 2075 are about $18 on Jenny’s right now . $27-29 for the black metal gear 2075R
    https://jennysrc.com/products/trx-4-...30783e61&_ss=r
    Dakratfink,

    Nice find! Much obliged!

    Also, Im looking for drift buut not too drift happy. I'm going to try and find the possibly non-existent line

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dakratfink View Post
    Normal “blue” 2075 are about $18 on Jenny’s right now . $27-29 for the black metal gear 2075R
    https://jennysrc.com/products/trx-4-...30783e61&_ss=r
    Comes out to about the same, the jrc website will add 5 dollars or so for shipping

  15. #15
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    Nice project there
    If you are planning to run on track mostly, center diff is one of the best upgrades for better handling.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim-Beezy View Post
    Viking, thanks for the servo recommendations. I guess I've got some shopping/ research to do.

    I figured I'd ask about the bulkhead, it's pretty rocky living on a mountain...trust me I'm a geologist. I really do like how it protects the servo or, I should say, the new servo.

    I thought sways bars was an onroad thing? Having the sway in the rear in helps with cornering offroad as well?
    As Dakratfink said, I use the firm sway bar on the rear to reduce understeer on loose surfaces. The sway bars also greatly improves stability when cornering at higher speeds and turning from side to side. As always it's all personal preference (from one geologist to another - don't blame me, it's not my FAULT...).

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim-Beezy View Post
    Thanks Viking! I guess I should've done a little more digging on the MIP website LOL

    I've heard of a bunch of people running losi springs and saying they work well (might get that spring tuning kit). I'm glad to hear they fit the gtrs... after some research I think I'm swayed to go with traxxas in the shock department.
    If getting the GTR shocks AND you want more adjustability, get the Revo GTR variable valve damping kit (P/N: 5461):

    https://traxxas.com/products/parts/5461

    On mine, I drilled all 4 holes to 1/16" and put the valve on top.
    Last edited by Squeegie; 01-15-2020 at 12:21 PM.
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  18. #18
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    I would recommend the Kingheadz motor mount over Hot Racing. I don’t know if my HR is just an old version and it’s been fixed now, but I had to dremel off a bracing rib for the stock battery mount to fit.

    Replacing the motor mesh screw using a cone washer helps to spread the load and not chew up the motor plate too.



    VG Racing springs are another option for the GTRs... https://www.vgracing.com/product/GTR_Springs.html

  19. #19
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    I second the King Headz motor mount. The larger bearing is one reason why. Additionally, the STRC motor plate.

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