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  1. #1
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    Care for motors?

    So what are best practices for motors on these bad boys? I suspect i just bought myself a new motor

    After a particularly muddy run i decided to give the raptor a good cleaning. I wasn't too concerned with things, supposedly being highly water resistant to the point they practically claim waterproof, so i was liberal with the water use as i was brushing the dirt away. I wasn't dunking the thing in water but suspect it may still have been too much for the motor? Prior to the run, and during, it was perfectly fine then after cleaning and giving it along time to dry out i tried running it again. The ESC is getting fine and the servo's are working as the wheels will still turn, but the motor non responsive to throttle. Sadly i have nothing to test the motor with, but checked that all connections felt firmly connected.

    should i be taking the motor off anytime i give it a good cleaning to prevent this in the future, assuming of course it was in fact my cleaning that killed it, to prevent future incidents. If i wasn't planning to get another truck soon i'd consider going vxl but this will essentially be my young children's truck to bash around with so not sure it's worth putting much money into other then a new stock motor.

  2. #2
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    my slash titan motors have never had an issue from water. every month or so I remove to motor and oil the shaft bushings but it has never not turned from water. it is possible you have a bad motor and something did fail but I would first cheak the esc.

    does the esc flash red and green??? it may be that the controller need a quick recalibration to the esc. when mine needs this the servo still turns and the esc turns on but the truck wont move. this could be all your issue is. hope this helps!

  3. #3
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    I'll have to dig into the manual some more, but at the moment i THINK it is working as intended. The light is firmly green with battery on, and when i apply throttle in either direction i see the green light flicker in response to my throttle pull just no response otherwise. sigh.

  4. #4
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    maybe it is a loose motor wire? or hopefully someone with more knowledge of failed brushed motors will chime in here and have some valuable input.

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    Assuming the Titan motor...

    For normal use, which is a slightly dusty area, no water, no mud, no sand. About every 10 -15 packs remove the motor and clean it.
    1. Remove the spur cover
    2. unplug and remove the motor.
    3. Blow out using compressed air (~30psi)
    4. Using electric motor spray, spray out the motor until the fluid runs clear. Give the motor a spin while you are doing this, and shoot it in to all of the openings you can. Recommend putting on rubber gloves and eye/face protection.
    This is what I use:
    https://www.amainhobbies.com/dynamit...yn5500/p117559
    5. Blow out again with compressed air and allow an hour or so for the rest of the cleaner to evaporate.
    6. Put one drop of light machine oil (I use bike chain oil) on each bushing, spinning the motor to work it in, this also tests the motor, the rotation should feel smooth, with a magnetic notch about every 45 degrees or so.
    7. Reinstall the motor and set the mesh. Plug the motor back into the ESC, replace the spur cover.
    8. For the first pack take temps every five minutes or so to make sure everything is happy ( > 160*/f).

    If you are running in dusty conditions, recommend cleaning the motor every five packs or so. Mud/water, clean the motor after you are done running for the day.

    Running in water and mud will greatly shortens the life of the motor, the water acts as an abrasive on the brushes, cutting them in very quickly. It is actually and old-school racing technique to break in a motor by dumping it into a glass of water and running it for about five minutes. This cuts the brushless into the sweet spot for maximum performance on the motor. The down side is it wears the motor very quickly, but the racers that did this would normally go through a motor in one night's worth of racing.
    Last edited by Greatscott; 01-15-2020 at 04:58 PM.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  6. #6
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    Also, if your troubleshooting turns out it is bad, you can check the RC chop shops for a cheap replacement.

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the suggestions. Yeah i was thinking due to cleaning and the fact it was really dirty/muddy that during cleaning more gunk coulda gotten in the motor so tomorrow i'll be taking it off and giving it as good a cleaning as i can. Best i can do is bottle of compressed air, but now that i'm picking up a hobby i think i can justify getting a few more tools including a small compressor. Really hoping it's just all gunked up because wiring all looks good with out proper tools.

    Might have to upgrade to brusheless afterall. Live in Oregon so it's going to be wet and track is likely to be muddy more often then not. What is involved in switching from brushed to brushless? A new titan motor will run me like 26 bucks and not sure how much the brushless engine is going to run. I'm assuming the roughly $100 buck quote to convert over is more then just the motor?
    Last edited by Veqlargh; 01-16-2020 at 12:28 AM.

  8. #8
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    Well as luck would have it the motor is not shot. I can't button it up until i get my paws on some electric motor spray but simply getting it out and blowing as much dirt as i could with bottle of compressed air i could verify that the motor does in fact function. So guess i'll be investing in a small compressor in my near future, and in all likelihood doing a tear down after just about every days run due to our typical weather

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    I used canned air when I first got started, it works. But, considering how much you'll go through, it is a lot more cost effective just to get a small air compressor. You can get a 2-gallon quiet compressor for about $100.

    For brushless systems, you are looking at between $100 - 150, depending on what you get. I like Castle systems myself, but they tend to be a little spendy. A SW4/4600kv system will run you about $150. A lot of people like and run HobbyWing systems, and those run a bit less expensive. They don't have all of the tuning options that Castle systems have, but they are not bad. Most likely the best bang for the buck going right now is this guy:

    https://www.amazon.com/38010201-Max1...9182713&sr=8-6

    When you are adding systems like this to your truck, you need to pay attention to settings, and what they really effect. One of the key settings is BEC output voltage. The HW ESC can poop out 6VDC or 7.4VDC, and a lot of guys go with the higher voltage and end up frying their receivers. The Traxxas RX is only rated to 6VDC, I have pushed it a little higher, but 7.4VDC is fry it.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  10. #10
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    If you have a Walmart or really any well equipped hardware store nearby. There are 2 produces I have used regularly with great results. One is slightly more expensive but I think that is because one is not a petroleum distillate / alcohol based product and the other is.

    https://www.crcindustries.com/produc...-oz-05103.html

    https://www.crcindustries.com/produc...-oz-02130.html

  11. #11
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    Before seeing your Post @zedorda i had actually picked up a bottle of the red stuff and sprayed out the engine then air canned it dry. letting it sit abit before i slap it all back together.

    Are there any prodcuts that i can use to help minimize the rust potential without effecting the plastics? i noticed that the gear on the motor had already started to rust. Go to all the trouble of making the electronics practically waterproof only to have things rust. Really makes me think i have to rip the thing down every single run to ensure a gear completely enshrowded in plastic and over an inch and a half of motor to get through still suffers from rust. I'll be better about cleaning after each run and, once i've got the air compressor blowing the whole thing off particularly metal bits/screw heads.

    any particular lubes i should be using at particular spots, and not damage the plastics while doing so?

  12. #12
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Veqlargh View Post
    Before seeing your Post @zedorda i had actually picked up a bottle of the red stuff and sprayed out the engine then air canned it dry. letting it sit abit before i slap it all back together.

    Are there any prodcuts that i can use to help minimize the rust potential without effecting the plastics? i noticed that the gear on the motor had already started to rust. Go to all the trouble of making the electronics practically waterproof only to have things rust. Really makes me think i have to rip the thing down every single run to ensure a gear completely enshrowded in plastic and over an inch and a half of motor to get through still suffers from rust. I'll be better about cleaning after each run and, once i've got the air compressor blowing the whole thing off particularly metal bits/screw heads.

    any particular lubes i should be using at particular spots, and not damage the plastics while doing so?
    The plastics used are quite safe to oils and lubes. It is the same used on the nitro powered Traxxas models. I use WD-40 all over the suspension parts and bearings trying to avoid the tires. Whenever I see water being part of the run. I also have afew totes with about a pound of silica gel packets in each I put the model into after cleaning. I used to use uncooked rice since it was cheap but you have to change it out once in a while but the silica packets only need heating to reuse them.

    https://www.amazon.com/Dry-Premium-I...%2C168&sr=8-10

    After a day in the tote I spray the same parts down with Moo-Slick but any PTFE spray you like will work.

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/cow-rc-...011111/p825361

    P.S. Always remember to relube the bearing\bushing on the motor after cleaning. I like Mobil One synthetic.
    Last edited by zedorda; 02-02-2020 at 02:19 PM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Veqlargh View Post
    Well as luck would have it the motor is not shot. I can't button it up until i get my paws on some electric motor spray but simply getting it out and blowing as much dirt as i could with bottle of compressed air i could verify that the motor does in fact function. So guess i'll be investing in a small compressor in my near future, and in all likelihood doing a tear down after just about every days run due to our typical weather
    Glad to hear your motor wasn’t shot! That CRC cleaner others mentioned it good stuff, I use it too.
    If you invest in a compressor try to search pawn shops and classified ads. I got my 2 gal one for $50 or $60 used for a model worth 3 times that.

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