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  1. #1
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    Slayer not cranking for long enough, fuel not moving

    I purchased this nitro slayer brand new in October 2019 and it wonít start. When I try to plug in the easy start and crank it, it only cranks for 5-10 seconds before the battery dies and in that time it turns slower and slower until it stops. I have replaced motor, wiring harness, easy start wand, battery, and went through the easy start system cleaning it out and re greasing it, and none have fixed the issue. Iíve also noticed that if I put a little bit of fuel in the line and crank it, the fuel doesnít move any closer to the carb. Any thoughts? I have also done the after run procedure every time after I run the car unless the easy start wouldnít work (too many times for a car thatís 3 months old). Also, the one way bearing doesnít need to be cleaned, I can hear the engine turning and itís not skipping or anything, just turning real slow then dying.

  2. #2
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Have you tested the glow plug to see if it is still good? If you hold finger over exhaust tip does fuel move then?

  3. #3
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    Ez start says the glow plug is good but later I will test it and try the exhaust. Neither of these would explain the ez start dying so quickly though right?

  4. #4
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    Do yourself a favor and ditch at least the blue wire to the low plug and get yourself a proper glow plug ignitor. Then you can remove the glow plug and plug it into the ignitor very quickly and see if your glow plug is good. You can also remove the ez start and replace it with a pull start setup. Once you have the engine dialed in it shouldnít take more then a second or 2 for it to start up.

  5. #5
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    If the engine is primed and in good shape it shouldn't need much more than a couple of seconds to start. Using an EZ start I plug the exhaust and turn it over (w/EZ start) till fuel is at the carb then I release my finger from exhaust and while still using the EZ start, it starts right up.
    If there is no fuel for the engine to try to start it is very hard on the EZ start battery, and the battery doesn't last as long. This is especially true with engines with a tighter pinch.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    If the engine is primed and in good shape it shouldn't need much more than a couple of seconds to start. Using an EZ start I plug the exhaust and turn it over (w/EZ start) till fuel is at the carb then I release my finger from exhaust and while still using the EZ start, it starts right up.
    If there is no fuel for the engine to try to start it is very hard on the EZ start battery, and the battery doesn't last as long. This is especially true with engines with a tighter pinch.
    Thanks, I’ll definitely try holding my finger over the exhaust until it actually reaches the carb. Still haven’t gotten it tuned properly for cold weather because I’m in Florida so the only time I’ve ran it recently it happened to be warm. Also new to nitro so my tune was probably off for that anyway lol. I’ll also see about a glow plug igniter if the issue keeps up. Charging the battery now, I’ll update whether or not it starts

  7. #7
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    Ok so I tried to start it and I still couldn’t get it going. I could smell nitro exhaust, but it didn’t sound like it was about to start. After thinking about it, the tune should be close to factory because when I last ran it I was going to tune it, so I just set it back to factory then was planning on working my way up. I assume I stopped because I let it idle too long or crashed or something and it shut off, then couldn’t get it running again, or maybe it just got dark. Whatever it was I didn’t really get it tuned. I used both fully charged batteries and it cranked for longer now that I primed it, but still not very long.

  8. #8
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    If everything is new on the EZ start (motor,wand, and battery) it would point me to small capacity battery and/or glow plug.
    Try this. Test #1 Take out glow plug. Try EZ start without glowplug installed (but still connected to blue wire) to see if engine turns over fast or slow. Test #2 Then unhook the black wire from the EZ start motor and take the (still connected to the blue wire) glow plug and touch it to the side of engine head (where it's shiny on the fins) where you can see into the bottom of the glow plug. Hit the button on the EZ start and you should see the coil in the glow plug glow bright red. If it doesn't the glow plug is bad.

  9. #9
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    Try leaning the LSN a little bit and restart. I don't know why the shop said to let it idle since it was sitting too long - just start it and drive it around easily so that the oil in the fuel can move through the engine and the engine can build some heat. I was waiting for the revving of the engine to come but when you didn't we could tell it was loading up and dying.

    Also, the engine doesn't necessarily pull the fuel from the tank. It gets pushed from the exhaust pulses via the exhaust pipe and hose connecting it to the fuel tank. That is why you need to plug the exhaust so that max pressure pushes the fuel to the carb. Once it hits the carb, unplug the exhaust and allow it to start.
    Last edited by Double G; 01-25-2020 at 08:48 PM.
    The Super Derecho

  10. #10
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    Try leaning the LSN a little bit and restart. I don't know why the shop said to let it idle since it was sitting too long - just start it and drive it around easily so that the oil in the fuel can move through the engine and the engine can build some heat. I was waiting for the revving of the engine to come but when you didn't we could tell it was loading up and dying.
    Did I miss something?

  11. #11
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Did I miss something?
    Huh? We were writing responses at the same time?
    The Super Derecho

  12. #12
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    Huh? We were writing responses at the same time?
    I thought you had another communication with BEAR2216 other than in this thread. You wrote "I don't know why the shop said to let it idle since it was sitting too long". I don't see where he talked about a shop
    and
    "I was waiting for the revving of the engine to come but when you didn't we could tell it was loading up and dying." confused as I thought there was a video I missed. Didn't realize you were talking about starting also. All good though, we're both trying to help.

  13. #13
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Huh. I know I was on my phone writing that and maybe I hit the back button from Facebook. I don't know. It's been a long weekend.
    The Super Derecho

  14. #14
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    I'm not alone, Glad I'm not the only one losing their mind. LoL

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    Also, the engine doesn't necessarily pull the fuel from the tank. It gets pushed from the exhaust pulses via the exhaust pipe and hose connecting it to the fuel tank. That is why you need to plug the exhaust so that max pressure pushes the fuel to the carb. Once it hits the carb, unplug the exhaust and allow it to start.
    After learning this, I went out and even with my finger of the exhaust, the fuel wasnít moving. Maybe something clogged between resonator and fuel tank? Exhaust leak? Some sort of air leak that lets pressure escape before pushing the fuel? I also tested spark plug, all good

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bear2216 View Post
    After learning this, I went out and even with my finger of the exhaust, the fuel wasn’t moving. Maybe something clogged between resonator and fuel tank? Exhaust leak? Some sort of air leak that lets pressure escape before pushing the fuel? I also tested spark plug, all good
    ^Glow plug, sorry^

  17. #17
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Take a look at the o-ring on the fuel tank cap to make sure it is not torn. Also give the cap a little push down to help it seat.

    Take the time to look at the exhaust header which can split right where it joins the mount or split at the first bend. If so switch to the Revo Platinum Edition header and hold with two springs. After two standard headers I swapped and never looked back.

    Edit: I see that the spring mount and standard headers are the same price @ $20!! Standard used to run around $7. It's been years since the last time I had to look at them because I went to a THS pipe which came with the header.
    Last edited by Double G; 01-29-2020 at 08:55 AM.
    The Super Derecho

  18. #18
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    ...Edit: I see that the spring mount and standard headers are the same price @ $20!! Standard used to run around $7...
    I also switched after breaking mine. There's no reason not to upgrade now. If they cost the same to make, why not make it a factory stock piece? ("hint,hint" Traxxas)

    Quote Originally Posted by Bear2216 View Post
    After learning this, I went out and even with my finger of the exhaust, the fuel wasn’t moving. Maybe something clogged between resonator and fuel tank? Exhaust leak? Some sort of air leak that lets pressure escape before pushing the fuel? I also tested spark plug, all good
    If you don't find an air leak (air leak is usually the problem), try unhooking the fuel line from the carb to test if that's plugged.

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