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  1. #1
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    Exclamation T-Maxx Classic- Revs but does not move, new friction pegs and spur gear

    Hi,

    I've owned my T-maxx for about a year now, and it's been pretty good to me up until now. I was running the truck about a week ago and after about ten minutes, it suddenly wouldn't move. I could rev, but it was almost like I was stuck in neutral. This happened to me before a month or 2 ago and it turned out to be the spur gear, so that shouldn't be the problem. I hadn't replaced the friction pegs when I did the gear. Since they seemed to be somewhat worn before, I thought they might've worn all the way down. so I ordered some this week and just put them in. Tightened the nut as much as I could and then backed it out around 1/4 turn. Checked the gear mesh and it seems fine. I did the paper test and I can pull it out though the paper has marks on it like it was getting stuck between the teeth of the gears. Started it up again today and it still won't move. I checked the output shaft and it seems to be moving, but after reading other forum threads it seems like there are 2? I'm not sure where to go from here. I'll do some more tests tomorrow and update the thread. Any ideas on what could be broken? Thanks for the help!

  2. #2
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    Could be the clutch bell shoes. If you turn the spur gear do the tires turn?

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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Could be the clutch bell shoes. If you turn the spur gear do the tires turn?
    They don't turn, but IIRC it's always been this way. I think I read somewhere that it's something to do with the transmission since it's a 2-speed with reverse.

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    When you give it throttle does the spur gear turn the same speed as engine rpm (Rpm goes up,spur turns faster)? Does the fwd/rev servo linkage move back and forth and not stuck in between? If yes to both, something inside the transmission is probable broken.

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    Quote Originally Posted by len- tmaxx 2.5 View Post
    They don't turn, but IIRC it's always been this way. I think I read somewhere that it's something to do with the transmission since it's a 2-speed with reverse.
    If you didn't have reverse it would.

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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    When you give it throttle does the spur gear turn the same speed as engine rpm (Rpm goes up,spur turns faster)? Does the fwd/rev servo linkage move back and forth and not stuck in between? If yes to both, something inside the transmission is probable broken.
    I need to check on the spur gear speed, but the servo looks to be working fine. Before I go straight to opening the trans, do you think it could be something to do with the clutch? I know there's a clutch, flywheel, and clutch bell, but I'm not sure how to make sure they are all working. Is there a way to test them?

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    If you have something like a piece of wood that you could hold against the spur gear lightly (just enough to keep it from spinning at idle). If you give the engine some throttle it should try to spin the spur gear your holding. If it doesn't it would be engine side (clutch shoes,flywheel loose).

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    Thanks, I'll give that a shot.

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    Tried it today and the gear speeds up when I give it gas. Servo moves back and forth fine but the truck still doesn't move. The wheels start spinning when I pick it up, though. What should I look for in the trans?

  10. #10
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    Pieces broken or parts worn, any pieces laying in the bottom. There are pins that hold some gears on a shaft that could have broken.
    Do you use reverse? If not I would remove reverse and install the forward only kit. To me it was night and day difference in performance.

    Before opening the tranny are you sure the slipper clutch is not slipping. I would hate for you to remove the transmission and it was slipping the whole time.
    Last edited by grizzly03; 02-02-2020 at 08:36 PM.

  11. #11
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    I installed new friction pegs and tightened it all the way, then loosened it around 1/4 turn. I installed 12 pegs after reading through some threads that said 12 would last longer (more pegs to distribute wear). How can I make sure that it's not slipping?

    I just thought about maybe checking if the nut on the end was spinning. Am I correct in saying that if it's slipping, the nut at the end of the shaft wouldn't be spinning?

    Also, I mainly run it in my backyard, so reverse is useful when I get stuck. That does remind me though. In the month or two before this happened, reverse started to stick a little and it would often get stuck in a neutral? (don't these trannys not have a neutral?) mode when I tried to shift to go forward. The servo seems to move fine though. Could that still be a problem?

    Thanks!
    Last edited by len- tmaxx 2.5; 02-02-2020 at 11:13 PM.

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    #1. I did that myself, install the pegs in every hole.
    #2. Yes you are correct.
    #3. These transmissions don't have a neutral in the normal sense, but it will have a neutral spot between fwd and rev. Does the shaft move in or out of the transmission when the shift servo moves and not just the servo arm? Sometimes it sticks. That shaft is a fork that slides a clutch bell one direction for fwd and the other direction for rev.

    Here's the exploded view. https://traxxas.com/explodedviews/T-...ssion-Assembly

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    #1. I did that myself, install the pegs in every hole.
    #2. Yes you are correct.
    #3. These transmissions don't have a neutral in the normal sense, but it will have a neutral spot between fwd and rev. Does the shaft move in or out of the transmission when the shift servo moves and not just the servo arm? Sometimes it sticks. That shaft is a fork that slides a clutch bell one direction for fwd and the other direction for rev.

    Here's the exploded view. https://traxxas.com/explodedviews/T-...ssion-Assembly
    So, I checked the slipper and the nut still spins even when accelerating. Servo seems fine too, I didn't check while running the truck but the shaft seems to move in and out of the tranny fine. Not sure if this is an issue, but the rubber boot that the shaft goes into doesn't expand to cover it. I'm not sure if it's supposed to, but it looks like it should. I'll open up the tranny soon and update this.

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    The boot goes over the small bit of plastic protruding off of the tranny case. It shouldn't make a difference unless it keeps the shaft from moving all the way in. Have you tried shifting in the other direction to see if the truck moves then? If not I'm thinking it could be a pin on the top shaft, inside the transmission.

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    Opened up the tranny today and found a pin (or piece of a pin?) sitting in the bottom. Any idea where it could've come from? Also, the brake disc, the anodized piece of the throttle servo linkage, and the small pin are all covered in what looks like gray grease. Is that supposed to be there, or is it something else? Something to note: The truck has been running very rich for quite a while. It also seems like there's a leak at the end of the exhaust as unburnt fuel and oily residue has been leaking out of it and has coated almost everything. Could that be an issue? I'll make sure to reset to factory and tune it the moment it's up and running.

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    Quote Originally Posted by len- tmaxx 2.5 View Post
    Opened up the tranny today and found a pin (or piece of a pin?) sitting in the bottom. Any idea where it could've come from? Also, the brake disc, the anodized piece of the throttle servo linkage, and the small pin are all covered in what looks like gray grease. Is that supposed to be there, or is it something else? Something to note: The truck has been running very rich for quite a while. It also seems like there's a leak at the end of the exhaust as unburnt fuel and oily residue has been leaking out of it and has coated almost everything. Could that be an issue? I'll make sure to reset to factory and tune it the moment it's up and running.
    In the exploded view link above (post #12) check out part #4995 and #4992. If not obvious try holding each metal shaft and attached gear, then try turning the gear to see if the pin is broken.

    The grey grease is probably just aluminum dust, (does it look like pencil dust?) which is normal as they are run dry. Just wipe it off with a paper towel.

    The excess oil coming out of the exhaust is normal. As long as your engine is running good, nothing to worry about, except when trying to keep it clean.LoL. It's what lubricates the engine internals. Different Rc fuels have different amounts of oil content. I have added an exhaust deflector to help keep things clean. Traxxas part#5245 exhaust deflector. Installs on the exhaust outlet.

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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    In the exploded view link above (post #12) check out part #4995 and #4992. If not obvious try holding each metal shaft and attached gear, then try turning the gear to see if the pin is broken.

    The grey grease is probably just aluminum dust, (does it look like pencil dust?) which is normal as they are run dry. Just wipe it off with a paper towel.

    The excess oil coming out of the exhaust is normal. As long as your engine is running good, nothing to worry about, except when trying to keep it clean.LoL. It's what lubricates the engine internals. Different Rc fuels have different amounts of oil content. I have added an exhaust deflector to help keep things clean. Traxxas part#5245 exhaust deflector. Installs on the exhaust outlet.
    Thanks for the info. I just pulled apart the tranny (I'll use the exploded view to make sure all my parts are in correctly when I put it back together). Based on what I can see, it seems like the problem is one of the gears that connects to the driveshaft (4997 Shiny Pawl) is not spinning the part that spins the shaft (4990). I don't see any pins though. Any idea what it might be?

    Also, it looks like my exhaust seems to be leaking out of the end (past the exhaust tip). Every time I start it, even for testing (running for 2 minutes) the end of the exhaust near the antenna box is covered in fuel. Do you think I need a new exhaust? By the way, I actually tried 3D printing an exhaust deflector with a higher heat plastic a while ago. I checked the melting point and I was fine, but I forgot to check the transition point (when it gets soft) and it just softened and fell off
    Rubber is the way to go, I'll order a deflector once the truck is fixed. Thanks!
    Last edited by len- tmaxx 2.5; 02-07-2020 at 09:25 PM.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by len- tmaxx 2.5 View Post
    Thanks for the info. I just pulled apart the tranny (I'll use the exploded view to make sure all my parts are in correctly when I put it back together). Based on what I can see, it seems like the problem is one of the gears that connects to the driveshaft (4997 Shiny Pawl) is not spinning the part that spins the shaft (4990). I don't see any pins though. Any idea what it might be?
    #4997 and #4998 are like a Centrifical clutch. They don't grab until they start spinning at a certain speed. If you have the tranny apart, have all the gears installed on the spur gear tranny half side.(leave off the other side so you can see all the gears. If you spin the spur gear one direction you will see only two gears turning.(Green Arrows) If you spin it the other way all the gears spin(Orange Arrows), except for #4998(because that one will spin by the metal idler gear still installed in the other half of tranny case.
    Check the pins circled. The top one could be broken. Also gears 4998/4997 see if pins(screws) are still installed.

    2.5tranny


    Quote Originally Posted by len- tmaxx 2.5 View Post
    Also, it looks like my exhaust seems to be leaking out of the end (past the exhaust tip). Every time I start it, even for testing (running for 2 minutes) the end of the exhaust near the antenna box is covered in fuel. Do you think I need a new exhaust? By the way, I actually tried 3D printing an exhaust deflector with a higher heat plastic a while ago. I checked the melting point and I was fine, but I forgot to check the transition point (when it gets soft) and it just softened and fell off
    Rubber is the way to go, I'll order a deflector once the truck is fixed. Thanks!
    Do you have the plastic black pipe? If you do, is leaking out the seam? I would recommend a metal pipe.

  19. #19
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    Thanks so much for the picture. I had the gears in the other side of the tranny and I wasn't sure what I was looking for, so this helps a lot. I'll check when I get a chance and get back to you.

    Exhaust- Yup, black plastic pipe and leaking out the seam. Is that a common issue with those? I would think the exhaust was built to handle that. Also, is there an exhaust you recommend? Traxxas metal pipes are very pricey. Are metal pipes generally louder than the stock plastic one? Thanks again!
    Last edited by len- tmaxx 2.5; 02-07-2020 at 11:49 PM.

  20. #20
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    Try Jenny RC, the T-maxx 3.3 stock pipe will work good. You can find one fairly cheap from "chop shops." I never really understood why a plasic pipe for exhaust? Just doesn't make sense to me.

    When you do put it back together, the shift fork (not pictured) goes in the middle of the metal gear collar.
    Last edited by grizzly03; 02-08-2020 at 12:19 AM. Reason: shift fork

  21. #21
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    Hey,

    Turns out you were exactly right. Sorry about the long wait, had a busy week. Just moved all the gears to the correct side of the tranny case and started spinning the spur gear. The tiny top pin circled in red is in two pieces. When I put the broken piece in, the gears spin as you described, but when I pull it out, they stop working correctly. Not sure if this is because of the age of my truck or the picture lighting, but the pin is dark gray on mine. Do I have to buy the whole gear for the pin, or is there a part number for it? I'll look on the Traxxas parts website in the meantime.

    Also, I am trying to decide between the Traxxas 5487 3.3 Resonator Pipe and the 4942 Tuned High-Performance Pipe for 2.5 engines. I can't seem to figure out what the performance difference is. I was originally leaning towards 4942 because it was made for the 2.5, but according to other forum threads and Traxxas parts, the 3.3 pipe works well and is an accessory for the 2.5. Any idea what the difference is?

    Thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Try Jenny RC, the T-maxx 3.3 stock pipe will work good. You can find one fairly cheap from "chop shops." I never really understood why a plasic pipe for exhaust? Just doesn't make sense to me.

    When you do put it back together, the shift fork (not pictured) goes in the middle of the metal gear collar.
    Not to jump in and hijack the thread but this info that the 3.3 resonator pipe is a direct replacement for the 2.5 is great to know. I’m going to keep scanning Jenny’s now until I see one in stock. I’d like to upgrade my pipe before I run my nitro in the spring.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dakratfink View Post
    Not to jump in and hijack the thread but this info that the 3.3 resonator pipe is a direct replacement for the 2.5 is great to know. Iím going to keep scanning Jennyís now until I see one in stock. Iíd like to upgrade my pipe before I run my nitro in the spring.
    No reason not to upgrade for the price.

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    If you have the old style gear with the solid pin, upgrade to Part#4995. If you already have the screw pin I'm not sure if you can get the pin separate, but I think an axle pin should work if it's the same size.

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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    If you have the old style gear with the solid pin, upgrade to Part#4995. If you already have the screw pin I'm not sure if you can get the pin separate, but I think an axle pin should work if it's the same size.
    I have a screw pin (allen key). I have a newer T-Maxx (49104-1) so I'd think I have all the new stuff. I'll look at the axle pins and see if they work. If they do, I'll order some. Thanks.

    Also, just ordered a stock pipe parted from a 3.3. It was a little more than Jenny RC, but I couldn't wait

    Speaking of random bolts that you can't seem to buy from Traxxas, I was running the truck in a parking lot many months ago and clipped a curb. The front left corner suspension, A-arms, and bulkhead were destroyed. For the A-arms and bulkheads, I got RPM replacements. They've been great so far, but I never was able to install my bumpers correctly. The bulkheads bent the bumper screws on impact, and RPM parts are a tight fit so bent screws just won't go in. Any idea where I could get those?

    Edit: Just looked on Traxxas parts and found the screw I need. It's the M3/12 screw pin, but traxxas tells 3x10. I guess they expect you to buy a new tranny when this happens. I'll see if I can find the same length screw anywhere else on the truck with a cheaper part I can order.
    Last edited by len- tmaxx 2.5; 02-14-2020 at 03:45 PM.

  26. #26
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    Update: Found the screw on the exploded view of the tranny, but it is included in part #4995. Ridiculous to have to buy the whole thing for a tiny pin. Any ideas on what I could do? I'm wondering if I can just use a small piece of metal from something like an allen key?, but I'm not sure how to hold it in there. Here's a picture of the exploded view part:


    Part:
    Last edited by len- tmaxx 2.5; 02-14-2020 at 04:37 PM.

  27. #27
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    I found this thread where they installed a M4 screw pin. forums.traxxas.Where-to-buy-M3-x-13-75-screw-pin

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    Finally got it back up and running! Thanks for the help. Ended up buying some new gears, but as I was installing them, the threads the new pin was making on the new gears stripped. I tried everything. I even resorted to hammering it in, but it wouldn't budge. It was far enough in so that it was through one side of the gear and the shaft, and the pin head wasn't sticking out enough to mess with any gears, so I just left it and installed everything. Tried to start it up and noticed the spur gear wasn't spinning very well. Turns out I had left fuel in the tank for about a week or two, and it had gone bad. Drained the tank and put in new fuel and it started right up. Does fuel normally go bad that fast? I drove it around and realized I had no brakes, but I found that the servo linkage wasn't connected correctly, so I pulled the axle and got that sorted out. Just installed my 3.3 exhaust, and I finally have no leaks! It was at the point where one run would cover the chassis with oil/gas, so I really needed that. Thanks for the advice.

    Anyway, had another problem recently that I was hoping you could help with. I have the 2.4ghz antenna, and I was replacing the tube a while ago as it snapped in half after a few rolls. I was just using the half tube, but I decided to replace it before I did some high-speed runs. I didn't realize that the antenna had a hard mental end. Since the tube was a bit crushed, and some point the piece got stuck and ripped off. Oddly, I later noticed that my antenna wasn't even long enough to fit the long tube. Tried soldering the piece back on and hoped it would work, but no luck. Tried some high-speed runs and could barely get 15ft. Is it possible to replace the antenna? I checked inside my receiver box but mine is soldered on. I am okay with soldering a new one on, but any ideas on where to get one? Also, are these antennas supposed to be shorter than the tube? I thought they were longer based on videos I have watched about this.

    Thanks! Looking forward to finally testing the limits with the T-maxx once the antenna's fixed.

    Here's a picture of the antenna:


    The metal part at the end ripped off.

  29. #29
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    I'm glad it's up and running!

    Rc fuel can go bad quickly when left to open air. The fuel evaporates and also absorbs moisture. I use the squeezable fill up container to store the fuel from the tank, without putting it back into the fresh fuel.

    The 2.4Ghz antenna are sensitive to un-shielded length, the part past the metal. They are a coaxial cable. The antenna is suppose to be shorter, all of it inside the tube. My tubes are only about 2" to 3" long. If it is AM radio frequency then longer is better.



    Here is a LINK to help you repair the antenna oscarliang.com/repair-2.4ghz-antenna
    I hope this helps.

  30. #30
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    As mentioned, the 2.4ghz antenna needs to be repaired to the specific dimensions in the link provided. Otherwise you will get very limited range.
    The Super Derecho

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    Hi,

    Thanks so much for all the help. It's running great. I just fixed the antenna and tested it. It works amazingly well.

    Anyway, as usual, when you fix one thing, you realize you have more problems.

    I drove the truck around for a while, but I started it up a few days ago and lost all steering. When I had that accident I mentioned before, I could only turn left. I replaced the servo saver and it worked okay, but it never went back to normal. I kept having to adjust the trim on the controller. When I lost steering, I checked and it was loose. Tried to tighten it, and the plastic snapped. Not sure why as I didn't put much force on it. Maybe something to do with the spring. Anyway, I wanted to get it running, so I found the old servo saver from the accident with some replacement small servo gears, and I installed those. The saver tightened just fine, and it worked for a little bit. After 5 minutes, it was loose again. I had to tighten it 5 or 6 times over 1 1/2 tank. Other issue was the steering was laggy. I know the connection was good because throttle worked fine. The steering caused a few collisions, and I'm sure that wore down the saver more, but I get the feeling the servo is damaged after all it went through.

    TLDR: Steering servo never worked the same after accident. Replaced servo saver, but it got loose over time. Tightened it and it snapped. Reused old one temporarily. After adjusting, it worked fine but servo was laggy. Steering kept randomly loosening.

    Is this a common issue that can be fixed? I'm leaning towards replacing the servo as that accident was a hard hit, and all the impact was put on the left front wheel (hit a curb). If it's not worth fixing, do you recommend any servos to replace it with? Throttle works great, so I only need steering.


    Thanks again for all the help.

    Note: If I need to start a new thread since this is a different issue, let me know and I'll make one.

  32. #32
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    You could always upgrade to the t-maxx 3.3 servo saver setup. It's a much better design.

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    Thanks for the reply. Based on the traxxas website, it shows my current 3744 servo saver on the 2.5 and the 3.3. Is this the part you are talking about?
    https://traxxas.com/products/parts/4945

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    That's the setup I switched to. I think all you need is (2)bearings and a servo horn in addition to that part.

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    Hey, I ended opening up the servo and rebuilding it. I cleaned out all the grease and added some new lithium grease. When I took out the servo, I could hear something rattling around inside. I found this thread about it: https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...servo-rattling

    I opened it up and found the capacitor just like this thread said. I have some experience with soldering, but I don't have the tools for the micro-soldering this would require, so I left it off. According to the thread, the capacitor just stores extra power in case the batteries don't supply enough. I put it back together, and it works better, but I still have occasional issues. I'm thinking of just upgrading to a more powerful servo. The servo saver might work for now, but I think it would be nice to have a servo that could turn the wheels easily even when stopped. Any idea on what to buy and what I will need (I read some stuff about a battery pack to replace the 4 AAs I have right now)?

    Thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by len- tmaxx 2.5 View Post
    Hey, I ended opening up the servo and rebuilding it. I cleaned out all the grease and added some new lithium grease. When I took out the servo, I could hear something rattling around inside. I found this thread about it: https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...servo-rattling

    I opened it up and found the capacitor just like this thread said. I have some experience with soldering, but I don't have the tools for the micro-soldering this would require, so I left it off. According to the thread, the capacitor just stores extra power in case the batteries don't supply enough. I put it back together, and it works better, but I still have occasional issues. I'm thinking of just upgrading to a more powerful servo. The servo saver might work for now, but I think it would be nice to have a servo that could turn the wheels easily even when stopped. Any idea on what to buy and what I will need (I read some stuff about a battery pack to replace the 4 AAs I have right now)?

    Thanks!
    I’m thinking about picking up one of those battery packs when I start running nitro again once it warms up here

  37. #37
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    I switched over to the Rx NiMh packs. For me it's a more convenient setup. No need to open up the battery box to replace the AA batteries. The battery pack setup has an extra lead so you can charge it without removal. They also seem to last longer on a charge than the AA's.
    For servo's it's a matter of preference. I used a Traxxas 2075 servo because I have them on hand. You can find them cheap and they work good. (A 2070 has the same specs minus waterproof). Also the two new brushless servos Traxxas have look to be a good value, haven't heard of any bad things about them. I also just purchased a servo from Promodeler to put in my TRX4, great price for the specs. Haven't installed yet, but never heard anything but good reviews about them.

  38. #38
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    I found a picture I have of the 3.3 servo saver to give you an idea of how it looks. (If you decide to switch)

    SMaxxservosaver

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