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  1. #1
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    Broken axels after WideMaxx upgrade

    I just upgraded the Maxx with the WideMaxx upgrade, then took it for a quick spin and busted two axels and twisted the other two badly. Any idea why this might have happened? I did use the auto-righting feature, but used that prior to the upgrade without any trouble.

  2. #2
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    Assuming I need to buy one of these? Any suggestions? I'd rather not spend $120 if I don't have to. But I want to be sure I get everything I need so I don't have future problems.

    $48 - Driveshaft, steel constant-velocity (shaft only, 109.5mm) (4) (for conversion of #8950X driveshafts to WideMaxx™ suspension)
    https://traxxas.com/products/parts/8996A


    $120 - Driveshafts, steel constant-velocity (assembled), front or rear (4) (for use with #8995 WideMaxx™ suspension kit) (requires #8654 series 17mm splined wheel hubs and #7758 series 17mm nuts for a complete set)


    https://traxxas.com/products/parts/8996X

    Broken axel image:
    https://ibb.co/6YYjJ71
    Last edited by Lowtechtexan65; 02-08-2020 at 05:15 PM. Reason: Add image

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier Flux Capacitor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lowtechtexan65 View Post
    Any suggestions?

    Unfortunately, you fell into the upgrade snowball-effect that results when one aspect of the vehicle is upgraded.

    I learned this the hard way with the E-Maxx Brushless. One thousand dollars later and exhausting probably every tire, wheel and axle combo there is available for the truck, the simple fix was dialing back the punch control (aftermarket ESC of course) and learning to ease into the throttle instead of seeing how much of a roost I could get from a dead stop before something broke.

    On a side note, I do find $120 for a set of axles for an RC offensive considering I just bought two brand new tires plus mounting and balanced for my 2000 Chevy S-10 for $85 dollars. Keep in mind that is a real truck I drive everyday and will get 75,000 miles out of those tires at the minimum. The $120 axles for the RC might last six months (and that's pushing it); whereas my tires for the truck will last a good couple years. The only thing I had to do was put them on the truck myself.

    If I had the machinery and time, I could make those axle kits that they are selling for $120 for about $50 bucks and still turn a profit.

    Remember, when you buy a Traxxas product, you are paying for the innovation. That's where they own us after we buy one of their RC's.

    If I had my way and access to machinery that can make those parts, I would definitely choose a higher quality of steel than what is offered by many, if not all RC manufacturers.

    Unfortunately cheap Chinese steel seems to be flooding our U.S. economy at every turn.

    Plus, using the self-righting feature is the equivalent of holding all four tires off the ground and pulling the trigger to full throttle and dropping the vehicle onto pavement from a four foot drop. Yeah, it is that bad of a shock to the drive-train, if not worse. It without a doubt was the worst innovation for an RC vehicle, even if a person is unable to get to the vehicle to flip it back over for medical reasons.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 02-08-2020 at 06:08 PM.
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  4. #4
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    I've actually experienced this myself since putting my wide kit on. I went through 9 axles before I switched to the steel axles. I have to say since doing the steel axles it drives amazing. If you buy from your local shops they are 99.95 not 120. Yes all that you listed it all you need. Part #8654, and 7758 as well as the wide steel axles. Well worth the money.

  5. #5
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    $178 for the Wide Maxx kit and steel CVD's? No thanks. I'm fine with my Narrow Maxx.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier Flux Capacitor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    $178 for the Wide Maxx kit and steel CVD's? No thanks. I'm fine with my Narrow Maxx.

    It isn't just the price point that bothers me anymore to be honest. Don't get me wrong, I am a Die Hard Traxxas fan all the way, since it is the only RC manufacturer that I buy from. The real problem is the tires lately. Five years ago, a set of tires would last all the way to the tread was almost gone; fast forward to today, I buy a set of Traxxas tires for any of my Traxxas vehicles and within a week or less, I have sidewall splitting.

    I did reach out to Traxxas support with pictures and when I did, the response is always the same------ those tires look worn out! Well.........no kidding I replied; with the follow-up that this was happening within a weeks time frame and not months of use like five or six years ago when the sidewalls were thicker or stronger on their tires.

    Something changed since then and to make sure I wasn't installing tires wrong on the rims, I bought pre-mounted ones from Traxxas with the same results again.......sidewalls split wide open like someone took a razor knife to them. Out another $90 bucks for a full set of tires that could've been used for their upgraded steel axles.

    So far, the only tires I ever got replaced by Traxxas was if the whole vehicle was just bought brand new and the sidewalls split open. If you are buying just the tires, even with pictures, it is hard to convince support that their tires are going down hill in the quality department.

    I don't mean the sidewalls are splitting in just one place on the tires, it is splitting the whole way around the tire until the rim just spins in the tire carcass and eventually spits it off the rim.

    I'm just saying, I wouldn't mind spending the $120 for axles if their tires recently were not having these sidewall issues.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 02-09-2020 at 01:01 PM.
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  7. #7
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    Thanks for all the input. New to RCís so Iím expecting a big learning curve. I did visit the Traxxas Corp office in McKinney TX last week, very impressive and people were very helpful. I am going to buy the Steele axel kit and other parts. And I guess hope for the best! I do need to learn to control my trigger so Iím not putting so much load on the system. Also Iíll stop using the auto-righting feature. Itís helpful, but it does seem it could cause more trouble than itís worth.

  8. #8
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    I'm just saying, I wouldn't mind spending the $120 for axles if their tires recently were not having these sidewall issues.
    Don't buy Traxxas tires then?
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorRC22 View Post
    Don't buy Traxxas tires then?
    That is the simple solution, yes; but it shouldn't be that we as customers don't have options because of lack of quality control on just one type of tire is all that I was getting at.
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  10. #10
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    I have a ripped sidewall after 1 day of owning the maxx and only running 1 pac thru it. I am considering getting dboots backflip lp's but I want more of a stunt truck.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Atonimo View Post
    I have a ripped sidewall after 1 day of owning the maxx and only running 1 pac thru it. I am considering getting dboots backflip lp's but I want more of a stunt truck.
    Sorry to hear that. One ripped sidewall is one thing, but I have been getting ripped sidewalls on all four corners of the vehicle and not only just on the outside of the tires, but on the inside (next to the axles) as well. But to have it happen within a week to all four corners more than twice in a row, leaves me scratching my head as to why it is happening so often lately and not just one particular Traxxas vehicle.......all of them that I own.
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  12. #12
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    A friend on mine purchased a notorious 6s about 2 weeks ago and you should see his tires they are thrashed. Another friend has had the outcast 4s for about 1.5 months and his tires are fine. I have owned a revo 2.0 for about a month and those tires are fine as well. We all run on the same surfaces at the same time some tires handle it some don't . The backflip lp's are what im going to try next I think.

  13. #13
    RC Champion RazorRC22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    That is the simple solution, yes; but it shouldn't be that we as customers don't have options because of lack of quality control on just one type of tire is all that I was getting at.
    We do have options. I'm running Badlands on mine.
    youtube.com/c/RazorRCvideos

  14. #14
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    Sorry to hear that. One ripped sidewall is one thing, but I have been getting ripped sidewalls on all four corners of the vehicle and not only just on the outside of the tires, but on the inside (next to the axles) as well. But to have it happen within a week to all four corners more than twice in a row, leaves me scratching my head as to why it is happening so often lately and not just one particular Traxxas vehicle.......all of them that I own.
    I've noticed that with the buggy style bead that traxxas uses. That kind of bead with the raised channel inside and the thin sidewall adds up to tires that cut themselves whenever you land or corner hard on a hard surface. I have a pile (literally 20+) old traxxas wheels/tires where there are cuts along the rim in the sidewall. If I'm in a bind and need a tire quick, I'll rough it up with sandpaper and put bicycle inner tube over it with CA as a patch just to get me by.

    Compare that to the 3.8" trenchers I run on all 3 of my 6S MT's (outcast 6s, ERBEv2 6S, SavageFluxHP 6S) and 2.8's on 2 3S trucks (stamped 4x4 vxl on 3S, eJato on 3s), all existing for over a year without an issue... sure, the tires are heavier, but if they last, they are worth gearing down a tooth to run them IMO.

    On the ejato, I'm running traxxas wheels with the channels, but the trencher 2.8's still hold up. I have no idea what kind of bead is on the rest of the tires, but they are whatever proline sends them preglued as.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    I've noticed that with the buggy style bead that traxxas uses. That kind of bead with the raised channel inside and the thin sidewall adds up to tires that cut themselves whenever you land or corner hard on a hard surface. I have a pile (literally 20+) old traxxas wheels/tires where there are cuts along the rim in the sidewall. If I'm in a bind and need a tire quick, I'll rough it up with sandpaper and put bicycle inner tube over it with CA as a patch just to get me by.

    Yes, I've often thought about ways to ease the stress caused by channel grooves for the bead could be the cause of the problem. However, the sidewall slits are occurring way above the channels for the beads. It's happening just below the tread line like what happens when you use to get a re-tread on old tires that were worn out back in the days.

    One way that I found to alleviate some of that stress was to make the tire completely air tight. The downside is that the tire compound is usually too soft to accommodate that particular approach unless the tire is belted.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 02-12-2020 at 01:37 PM.
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  16. #16
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Well, you could try wrapping them so they don't balloon. I do that on my 6S trucks. Keeps them from blowing apart or blowing off the rim. It cuts down the air control quite a bit, but I'd rather have that then tires blowing up on me every time I bash.

    Kevlar cord and a bit of CA seems to work pretty well. I started with 70lb and 3-4 wraps, then went with 500lb and one wrap. I don't really tie knots in it, just one long multiple wrap single knot, then I pull the cord snug and put CA all over the overlap area of the knot and a drop of CA every inch or so to hold the string on the tire.


    The first ones I did with the 70lb kevlar, I ran CA around the entire tire, but that was a pain to remove when the string would get cut. The larger 500lb kevlar string that has a core holds up longer and less glue around the tire makes it easier to remove/redo.
    Last edited by olds97_lss; 02-12-2020 at 01:55 PM.
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  17. #17
    RC Qualifier Flux Capacitor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    Well, you could try wrapping them so they don't balloon. I do that on my 6S trucks. Keeps them from blowing apart or blowing off the rim. It cuts down the air control quite a bit, but I'd rather have that then tires blowing up on me every time I bash.

    Thank you for sharing!

    I've always liked your posts and Signature: "Expert rigging at it's best!"

    I no doubt agree that getting the tire to maintain its shape is the key to its longevity. I'm just wondering if Traxxas will ever maybe make a firmer compound for its rubber tires; especially the 6.3" tires. It would be nice to be able to have those available in different firmness increments.

    I mean to say, I understand we have the 8S rated tires for the bigger trucks and I think the 6S has them; but it would be nice to have a compound firmness scale selection.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 02-12-2020 at 02:09 PM. Reason: Fixed.
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  18. #18
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    The downside with a firmer tire is less grip, especially when it's cooler out.

    I used to run traxxas chevrons all the time, but they are useless when it's cold. Even when at 70F, they don't get a ton of traction on concrete. I still like them, but the sidewalls just don't hold up when jumping a lot. The rims cut them all up. Seems to be what generally happens with tires when bashing on concrete, but I notice it a lot more with all the traxxas tires I've ran and a lot less with proline tires.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier Flux Capacitor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    The downside with a firmer tire is less grip, especially when it's cooler out.

    I used to run traxxas chevrons all the time, but they are useless when it's cold. Even when at 70F, they don't get a ton of traction on concrete. I still like them, but the sidewalls just don't hold up when jumping a lot. The rims cut them all up. Seems to be what generally happens with tires when bashing on concrete, but I notice it a lot more with all the traxxas tires I've ran and a lot less with proline tires.

    Yes, I agree with the "firmer the tire" = "less grip" taking the temperature into account principle and surface of course.

    I'm climbing hills with a camber and climbing them off camber, so I need a firmer sidewall in that particular scenario. In all honesty, that type of climbing is going to chew any tire up eventually.
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  20. #20
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    To be honest, if the traxxas 3.8 chevrons sidewall held up as well as my trenchers, all I would run would be the chevrons. I like the lack of side bite and the longevity of the tread.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  21. #21
    RC Racer Killroy's Avatar
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    Forget about the wide maxx. Run the truck stock, that will help with a lot of problems. If you need to upgrade get traxxes stuff.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Killroy View Post
    Forget about the wide maxx. Run the truck stock, that will help with a lot of problems. If you need to upgrade get traxxes stuff.
    With the wide kit the stock ales fit but they are extended beyond there capability of any strength being left , gotta do the metal shafts to fix the problem

  23. #23
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    UPDATE

    I ended up purchasing the metal shafts to go along with the WideMaxx kit, and it runs like a new truck! I’ve got so much more control now. If you’ve got the Maxx and want to push it even further don’t hesitate to upgrade.

  24. #24
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    UPDATE

    I ended up purchasing the metal shafts to go along with the WideMaxx kit, and it runs like a new truck! Iíve got so much more control now. If youíve got the Maxx and want to push it even further donít hesitate to upgrade.

  25. #25
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    Does anyone know if the steel driveshafts work with the 5353x hubs?

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by captrons71 View Post
    I've actually experienced this myself since putting my wide kit on. I went through 9 axles before I switched to the steel axles. I have to say since doing the steel axles it drives amazing. If you buy from your local shops they are 99.95 not 120. Yes all that you listed it all you need. Part #8654, and 7758 as well as the wide steel axles. Well worth the money.
    Wide steel axles? What part number is that? Thanks. Edit. NVM I figured it out. I just needed to add the hubs and nuts to complete the set. I broke my first plastic axle on the third run after installing the widemaxx kit. So it is what it is.
    Last edited by Xmaxx 8s newb; 03-03-2020 at 09:49 AM.

  27. #27
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    My Maxx is my first "real" RC, so because of that I've been able to really enjoy it because I don't really know any better. I can control it, but also could see the wide kit making a big difference. I was all in on buying it, until I found out it will actually cost triple the amount to do right with steel driveshafts etc. It'll cost a third of what we paid for the truck and battery set for a proper wide kit setup. Might run it stock this summer, knowing I can upgrade later. I've been running in -15C and the only damage I've had is I cracked the rear bumper. I'll be looking for a stronger one to replace it, otherwise it can stay cracked for the time being lol.

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