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  1. #1
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    New wheels - toe, camber and gearing

    Have a rustler vxl replaced the wheels today with pro line trenchers 2.8 the larger tire shows me clearly my toe and camber look to be off. Does anyone know the typical degrees to set it and how to do so? Also since the original wheels were 2.2 do I need to change the gearing from the original stock gearing? I'm running 7cell NiMH battery.

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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by zalphen View Post
    Have a rustler vxl replaced the wheels today with pro line trenchers 2.8 the larger tire shows me clearly my toe and camber look to be off. Does anyone know the typical degrees to set it and how to do so? Also since the original wheels were 2.2 do I need to change the gearing from the original stock gearing? I'm running 7cell NiMH battery.

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    Do you have a digital caliper, or some other way of accurately measuring your turnbuckle lengths? If so, Iíd say just eyeball it, as long as all of your links are the same length. If youíre just ripping around for fun, I would think that would be good enough.

    I have a couple of rustlers that we use just for fun, and that method has worked well for us. If you donít have a caliper, Iíd highly recommend one. Thereís a lot of different uses for one when it comes to tinkering with RCís.


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  3. #3
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    I run my toe in at 0 degrees, and, for just bashing, set the camber at 0 as well.

    If you don’t have an alignment or camber gauge, a carpenter’s square will do the job.

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    Unfortunately I don't have any of the fancy tools yet. My typical runs are street, dirt and grass, no bashing. Looking for the best control configuration.

    How about gearing? Think I'm good with the original stock with the larger tires?

    Appreciate the feedback.

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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by zalphen View Post
    Unfortunately I don't have any of the fancy tools yet. My typical runs are street, dirt and grass, no bashing. Looking for the best control configuration.

    How about gearing? Think I'm good with the original stock with the larger tires?

    Appreciate the feedback.

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    You should keep on eye on your motor/ESC temps after moving to a larger diameter tire. It has the same effect as going to a larger pinion/smaller spur gear.

    If itís causing heat issues, try going down a few teeth with the pinion gear.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougw9876 View Post
    I run my toe in at 0 degrees, and, for just bashing, set the camber at 0 as well.

    If you donít have an alignment or camber gauge, a carpenterís square will do the job.
    How do you use the square to set the degree?

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by RC Dad View Post
    You should keep on eye on your motor/ESC temps after moving to a larger diameter tire. It has the same effect as going to a larger pinion/smaller spur gear.

    If itís causing heat issues, try going down a few teeth with the pinion gear.


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    Decided to go ahead an buy the cooling fan cause I plan to go lipo anyway.

    Link to a caliper?

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  8. #8
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    New wheels - toe, camber and gearing

    Quote Originally Posted by zalphen View Post
    Decided to go ahead an buy the cooling fan cause I plan to go lipo anyway.

    Link to a caliper?

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    Hereís the caliper I use. Very user friendly:


    https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-ABSOL...37679265&psc=1

    And if youíre using the cooling fan on the motor, consider using thermal paste to get the most efficient cooling effect. Itís a little more effort, but well worth it. Thereís a thread on here somewhere with a fella that is a software engineer, talking about the value of using thermal past with the cooling fans. He basically concludes the two should almost always be used together when possible.


    https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-MX-4-2...61085163&psc=1


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    Last edited by RC Dad; 02-16-2020 at 09:07 AM.

  9. #9
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    As far as getting your camber and toe dialed in- using the RC stuff out there really should be done on wheels only. If there are tires on the rims, youíre not going to get an accurate alignment. It will likely be good enough, but nowhere near perfect.

    I found it to be more trouble than it was worth, and just started eyeballing and measuring the links to make sure they are all equal length, left to right. For general bashing, this method has been fine.


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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by zalphen View Post
    How do you use the square to set the degree?

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    For alignment
    Place 1 edge of the square in front of the car with the edge of the square touching bot front tires as close to halfway up the tires as you can. Slide the square so the other edge of the square is against the side of the tire. For 0 degrees the side of the tire should be parallel to the square. Flip the square over and do the same with the other side. If it is not parallel with the square adjust the steering links as needed.

    For camber place the car on a level flat surface (table top) and place one edge of the square on the table top with the other edge of the square pointing straight up. Slide the square so the upright edge is against the side of the tire and compare the tire to the square. Once again, the side of the tire should be parallel with the edge of the square.

  11. #11
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    Thanks for links and info fellas

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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by RC Dad View Post

    And if youíre using the cooling fan on the motor, consider using thermal paste to get the most efficient cooling effect. Itís a little more effort, but well worth it. Thereís a thread on here somewhere with a fella that is a software engineer, talking about the value of using thermal past with the cooling fans. He basically concludes the two should almost always be used together when possible.
    Just ordered the paste my man



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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by zalphen View Post
    Just ordered the paste my man



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    Nice! Iím curious to hear how well it works with an RC motor application. I just ordered some too for our Rustler. On 3s in the summer, it definitely gets a bit warmer than Iíd like. I live up in Boston, so winters are usually too long, summers too short.


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    Quote Originally Posted by RC Dad View Post
    Nice! Iím curious to hear how well it works with an RC motor application. I just ordered some too for our Rustler. On 3s in the summer, it definitely gets a bit warmer than Iíd like. I live up in Boston, so winters are usually too long, summers too short.


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    I just need to bite the bullet and get on the lipo wagon.

    Currently looking for that post about the thermal paste as we speak

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    Quote Originally Posted by zalphen View Post
    I just need to bite the bullet and get on the lipo wagon.

    Currently looking for that post about the thermal paste as we speak

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    I found another one on rctech from back in 2012 or so. I didnít get too deep into it, but the consensus seems to be that if you apply it accordingly, it can only help.

    I was nervous about the lipos too when I first made the switch. Definitely recommend either an ammo box, or the more expensive box that they sell out there. Canít remember who makes it... The power difference is crazy, especially going to 3s or higher.


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    Hey guys just did my first run with the new wheels today. Would wheels make a difference on performance regarding the motor? The car seemed more sluggish than I'm used to and that's the only thing I changed. Also I noticed with this wheel the front tires seem more wobbly than my previous ones.

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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by zalphen View Post
    Hey guys just did my first run with the new wheels today. Would wheels make a difference on performance regarding the motor? The car seemed more sluggish than I'm used to and that's the only thing I changed. Also I noticed with this wheel the front tires seem more wobbly than my previous ones.

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    Which trenchers did you put on? The standard or the low profile?


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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by RC Dad View Post
    Which trenchers did you put on? The standard or the low profile?


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    Low profile

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    Quote Originally Posted by zalphen View Post
    Low profile

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    Gotcha. Those are basically stock diameter, right? They could be heavier. Adding weight to rolling mass could be an issue. If you have a smaller pinion, try that. Dropping 2-3 teeth should have a noticeable effect.


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    Quote Originally Posted by RC Dad View Post
    Gotcha. Those are basically stock diameter, right? They could be heavier. Adding weight to rolling mass could be an issue. If you have a smaller pinion, try that. Dropping 2-3 teeth should have a noticeable effect.


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    The stock were 2.2 and these are 2.8 so they are larger and heavier. Just didn't think it would have that much affect though

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    Yeah it willbe noticeable, but really noticeable since you are using nihm batteries. They probably don't have the amps needed to spin the larger tires. Once you are able to use lipo it'll be much less noticeable, and much more powerful. Try gearing down for now, try maybe 3 or 4 teeth smaller on the pinion, and as always keep an eye on the motor temps.

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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve g View Post
    Yeah it willbe noticeable, but really noticeable since you are using nihm batteries. They probably don't have the amps needed to spin the larger tires. Once you are able to use lipo it'll be much less noticeable, and much more powerful. Try gearing down for now, try maybe 3 or 4 teeth smaller on the pinion, and as always keep an eye on the motor temps.

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    Where's the best place to aim for to get an accurate temp read?

    Just more reason to get a lipo now haha

    I also wanted to point out I tried taking my opinion gear off today but the hex screw is seized in there and now I've stripped it. One thing after another lol. Any tips to get that out?

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  23. #23
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    New wheels - toe, camber and gearing

    Quote Originally Posted by zalphen View Post
    Where's the best place to aim for to get an accurate temp read?

    Just more reason to get a lipo now haha

    I also wanted to point out I tried taking my opinion gear off today but the hex screw is seized in there and now I've stripped it. One thing after another lol. Any tips to get that out?

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    You need to be within an inch or less I believe to get a good reading. Aim for the end of the motor can and the heat sink on the ESC. I have this model and I like it:


    https://www.ebay.com/p/710173260?iid...SABEgLJKvD_BwE

    As far as the grub screw on the pinion- you probably stripped your hex driver rather than the grub screw. Really the best solution is to buy better wrenches. I think the consensus is MIP. Theyíll last you forever:


    https://www.amazon.com/Moores-Ideal-...96485192&psc=1


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    Once again fellas you've been awesome. Appreciate all the help.

    Just bought a lipo and charger and a temp gun. I'll see if the heat is too much then check on that pinion again.

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    Quote Originally Posted by zalphen View Post
    Once again fellas you've been awesome. Appreciate all the help.

    Just bought a lipo and charger and a temp gun. I'll see if the heat is too much then check on that pinion again.

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    Nice! Keep us posted...


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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by RC Dad View Post
    You need to be within an inch or less I believe to get a good reading. Aim for the end of the motor can and the heat sink on the ESC. I have this model and I like it:


    https://www.ebay.com/p/710173260?iid...SABEgLJKvD_BwE

    As far as the grub screw on the pinion- you probably stripped your hex driver rather than the grub screw. Really the best solution is to buy better wrenches. I think the consensus is MIP. Theyíll last you forever:


    https://www.amazon.com/Moores-Ideal-...96485192&psc=1


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    Agree on all this too
    Theres a good chance a new mip could work on that stripped screw in the pinion. Try to heat it up some with either a small pocket torch or a soldering iron. If that don't work use a pair of dikes and pry it off the shaft

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    Last edited by Steve g; 02-18-2020 at 07:51 PM.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve g View Post
    Agree on all this too
    Theres a good chance a new mip could work on that stripped screw in the pinion. Try to heat it up some with either a small pocket torch or a soldering iron. If that don't work use a pair of dikes and pry it off the shaft

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    Thanks! Glad to know Iím not spouting misinformation


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  28. #28
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    Lipo comes tomorrow so we'll see what those temps are and performance with the bigger wheels. If they're too hot (btw what's too hot for the motor?) I'll take another stab at the pinion with better tools

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  29. #29
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    New wheels - toe, camber and gearing

    Quote Originally Posted by zalphen View Post
    Lipo comes tomorrow so we'll see what those temps are and performance with the bigger wheels. If they're too hot (btw what's too hot for the motor?) I'll take another stab at the pinion with better tools

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    You donít want to see temps to much over 160 degrees Fahrenheit I believe. If you get to 200, youíve probably caused permanent damage to the magnets.

    Ideally, you should be able to hold your finger on the motor or ESC without feeling like you have to pull it away. I used this method before getting an infrared temp gauge.


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  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by RC Dad View Post
    You donít want to see temps to much over 160 degrees Fahrenheit I believe. If you get to 200, youíve probably caused permanent damage to the magnets.

    Ideally, you should be able to hold your finger on the motor or ESC without feeling like you have to pull it away. I used this method before getting an infrared temp gauge.


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    Alright if I can get a run in tomorrow I'll let y'all know the temps. I'll mix it up with some high-speed asphalt and ripping grass runs.

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  31. #31
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    Mostly high speed runs with some grass temp on the motor was 120 Fahrenheit didn't drain the battery. Car is completely insane with this lipo. Wish I made the jump sooner. Tires were great as well. Temp outside was 45.

    To get the most accurate temp reading where should I aim at on the motor? I was aiming at the case from the top about 1inch away with body on still. Good enough?

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  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by zalphen View Post
    Mostly high speed runs with some grass temp on the motor was 120 Fahrenheit didn't drain the battery. Car is completely insane with this lipo. Wish I made the jump sooner. Tires were great as well. Temp outside was 45.

    To get the most accurate temp reading where should I aim at on the motor? I was aiming at the case from the top about 1inch away with body on still. Good enough?

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    I think somewhere around here should be good. An inch or less usually gives a pretty accurate reading.





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  33. #33
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    Good deal that's where I was getting reads from. I imagine the temps will get closer to the danger zone when it warms up some.



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