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  1. #1
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    Rear axle popped out and a bent rod. Newb could use some instruction please?

    Just when I thought I was getting good with this thing, I now realize the only thing Iím professional is breaking it. High speed little jump didnít look that bad but the model went cartwheeling for 5 or 6 feet. First question, can someone tell me how the heck this rear axle can pop out when thereís no possible way I can seem to get it back in? It doesnít seem to be bent but how does one go about re-inserting it?



    Additionally, one of the rods on the front, same side is bent. Removing it looks easy enough. To fix this place on 2 x 4 and just hammer it out until straight with a hammer?



    I really need to learn how to operate this thing. I didnít even think I was beating it certainly not taking off any stupid high jumps. Do cartwheels tend to wreck these things like this?

    Iíd like to thank you in advance for anyone who decides to help me.

  2. #2
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    You have to remove the tire and disconnect the control arms to put the axel back in.
    Ince that is back in, I would try it and see if the car pulls to one side. If so, you can try to adjust the length or bend it back and get a new one for when it snaps.
    You were just unlucky. Iíve cartwheeled mine at full speed and nothing (obvious) happened.


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  3. #3
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    I had the same issue until I took the vehicle just about completely apart. And put it back together. It kept coming out and I could not ever figure out how or why.

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMStilwell View Post
    You have to remove the tire and disconnect the control arms to put the axel back in.
    Ince that is back in, I would try it and see if the car pulls to one side. If so, you can try to adjust the length or bend it back and get a new one for when it snaps.
    You were just unlucky. Iíve cartwheeled mine at full speed and nothing (obvious) happened.


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    OK Iíll have to look up how to disconnect the control arms. Is there a good resource that shows how to accomplish this?

    Why do you think it will pull to one side or snap the axel? The axle looks unharmed and certainly doesnít look bent. Thatís what flips me out I have no idea how it popped out without bending or breaking it or something else but all looks well besides is out of socket.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by jhinesvl View Post
    I had the same issue until I took the vehicle just about completely apart. And put it back together. It kept coming out and I could not ever figure out how or why.

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    Can you explain this a little bit more? Are you suggesting that the vehicle was not assembled properly from factory and that it required you to take it almost completely apart and reassemble it with a little bit more TLC and since then less problems?

    I noticed someone suggested a 2.5 mm screwdriver through the blue cap or something like that to be able to reinstall the axle without actually removing the control arm.

    Whatís bothering me is once I get it fixed up Iím not going to even want to hit the gas. Stuff happens I just have to get back on the horse. I was just surprised the way it came apart with a cart wheel. Anybody elseís models Breaking apart from cart wheels?

  6. #6
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    I dont think it was put together well i had a lot of screws loose. Be careful not to over tighten

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  7. #7
    RC Racer justin13703's Avatar
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    Just take the wheel off and stick a 2 or 2.5mm hex driver (I can’t remember which off the top of my head) into the top blue rubber seal on the outside of the axle carrier and loosen the screw inside until it until it comes out of the upper control arm. You may have to remove the toe link as well from the axle carrier. But that should let you swing the carrier down far enough to put the axle back in, then just reassemble. It’s very simple. You definitely don’t have to remove any control arms.

    The bent rod in the front is a pushrod and really shouldn’t make the car pull one way or the other, but it would be good to try to hammer it back straight or replace it.

    Cartwheels are really hard on the cars and can damage a lot of stuff. I’ve gotten relatively lucky and have cartwheeled the crap out of mine more times than I can count and haven’t damaged anything from it yet. But the control arms are made of plastic and are designed to be very flexible so they don’t break. Sometimes this makes strange things happen like axles popping out because a hard impact flexed everything that much. It kind of means it did it’s job, and flexed without breaking. At least you don’t have to replace any control arms.
    Last edited by justin13703; 02-17-2020 at 10:28 PM.

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier Acidic01's Avatar
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    Here is my Carnage from just landing off a jump at the track. I had just replaced that rear rod end 10 mins prior. Prior that that I destroy my opinion gear on my Merv vxl 3s.

    I've had the axel pop out using self righting feature. From hard cartwheels and landings. And from my diff bulk head cracking where the a Arm pins are. The chassis flex and the right conditions can make it happen. There are ways to help mitigate this. With chassis brace and suspension straps.

    And to get axel back In take tire off and start unscrewing pillow ball from arm get axel back in and then

    Pick with my screw driver is is where ya go for.

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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by justin13703 View Post
    Just take the wheel off and stick a 2 or 2.5mm hex driver (I canít remember which off the top of my head) into the top blue rubber seal on the outside of the axle carrier and loosen the screw inside until it until it comes out of the upper control arm. You may have to remove the toe link as well from the axle carrier. But that should let you swing the carrier down far enough to put the axle back in, then just reassemble. Itís very simple. You definitely donít have to remove any control arms.

    The bent rod in the front is a pushrod and really shouldnít make the car pull one way or the other, but it would be good to try to hammer it back straight or replace it.

    Cartwheels are really hard on the cars and can damage a lot of stuff. Iíve gotten relatively lucky and have cartwheeled the crap out of mine more times than I can count and havenít damaged anything from it yet. But the control arms are made of plastic and are designed to be very flexible so they donít break. Sometimes this makes strange things happen like axles popping out because a hard impact flexed everything that much. It kind of means it did itís job, and flexed without breaking. At least you donít have to replace any control arms.
    Thanks!!!


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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    Here is my Carnage from just landing off a jump at the track. I had just replaced that rear rod end 10 mins prior. Prior that that I destroy my opinion gear on my Merv vxl 3s.

    I've had the axel pop out using self righting feature. From hard cartwheels and landings. And from my diff bulk head cracking where the a Arm pins are. The chassis flex and the right conditions can make it happen. There are ways to help mitigate this. With chassis brace and suspension straps.

    And to get axel back In take tire off and start unscrewing pillow ball from arm get axel back in and then

    Pick with my screw driver is is where ya go for.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    Same process as Justin outlined. OK Iíll give it a shot thank you!


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  11. #11
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    Here is my Carnage from just landing off a jump at the track.

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    What tires are those?

    If your axle is popping out like that, your flexing/bending the arms so far that it's pulling the bone out of the cup. I have had that happen quite a bit on my outcast 6s with rpm arms after a while. The arms get some slop in them around the hinge pins which adds to the problem. On it, the pillow balls have a base, so you can't just screw them in a bit further to effectively "shorten" the arm which puts the bone further in the cup. I shaved 1mm or so off the arms with the issue, then it was fine again.

    I asked about the tires because running larger/heavier tires will help promote this issue as they add leverage in a crash. When I run 1/2" offset wheels on any of my revos previous to my 2.0, I had RPM arms/axle carriers. The wider wheel seemed to cause it to pull the pillow ball through the axle carrier much more often than it did when I run 0 offset wheels. So the wider wheels obviously added stress to it.

    I run wrapped 3.8" trenchers on my 2.0 now with 0 offset wheels. It's tippy, but I don't have many issues with the stock arms. I did pull a pillow ball out of the arm once, busted a few rod ends and one or 2 axle carriers. But as far and high as I jump it, a bad landing is expected to break something or at least push it beyond it's limits. So far, it's exceeding my expectations and typically only takes a 5-10 minute push rod/rod end replacement to get me going again.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier Acidic01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    What tires are those?

    If your axle is popping out like that, your flexing/bending the arms so far that it's pulling the bone out of the cup. I have had that happen quite a bit on my outcast 6s with rpm arms after a while. The arms get some slop in them around the hinge pins which adds to the problem. On it, the pillow balls have a base, so you can't just screw them in a bit further to effectively "shorten" the arm which puts the bone further in the cup. I shaved 1mm or so off the arms with the issue, then it was fine again.

    I asked about the tires because running larger/heavier tires will help promote this issue as they add leverage in a crash. When I run 1/2" offset wheels on any of my revos previous to my 2.0, I had RPM arms/axle carriers. The wider wheel seemed to cause it to pull the pillow ball through the axle carrier much more often than it did when I run 0 offset wheels. So the wider wheels obviously added stress to it.

    I run wrapped 3.8" trenchers on my 2.0 now with 0 offset wheels. It's tippy, but I don't have many issues with the stock arms. I did pull a pillow ball out of the arm once, busted a few rod ends and one or 2 axle carriers. But as far and high as I jump it, a bad landing is expected to break something or at least push it beyond it's limits. So far, it's exceeding my expectations and typically only takes a 5-10 minute push rod/rod end replacement to get me going again.
    Tires are the Badlands mx38. I think that same pillow ball pulled out when I hit a tree in the air at woot. Ca glued it back in.

    My rocker on that side screw pulled out of rocker on shock end. Ca glued that back in as well. Got new rockers on order. I stress my eRevo pretty hard so I'm expecting things to break.. it's had some pretty hard landing and hitting soild objects at wot.

    Yes with things getting stressed and bending. Thing pop out and bend. All normally fast fixes in the field.




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  13. #13
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    To your points, learning that I should never go out without my tools. I bought this little Dewalt screw gun and a set of Allen wrenches this thing rocks.

    I donít see any problems with my control arms. However the common theme seems to suggest that the control arms have to bend significantly in order for the axle to pop out. Hopefully I did not damage or weakin the control arm to a terrible degree with this being my first time popping the axle out.

  14. #14
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    Rear axle popped out and a bent rod. Newb could use some instruction please?

    Thought I had replied but I guess not... thanks to all for the help. Axle reset and rod bent true. Back up and running in 15 mins total!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    Tires are the Badlands mx38. I think that same pillow ball pulled out when I hit a tree in the air at woot. Ca glued it back in.

    My rocker on that side screw pulled out of rocker on shock end. Ca glued that back in as well.
    Acid what is CA glue? So if you strip a screw hole you just glue the fastener back in? Does it hold up well?

    Worst case if it needs to come out are you screwed? (No pun intended haha)

  16. #16
    RC Qualifier Acidic01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ddigler View Post
    Acid what is CA glue? So if you strip a screw hole you just glue the fastener back in? Does it hold up well?

    Worst case if it needs to come out are you screwed? (No pun intended haha)
    Ca glue is cyanoacrylate. Basically super glue. It's used in the hobby world for tons of stuff. Glue your tires on with it. Bonds well to the plastic and rubber on our cars and bonds ok to metal. I like using medium version. It's thicker.

    Basically if strip a screw out can put some in to hole screw in screw, give it 10 mins to cure. And it will give you some new threads in the plastic. Since it bonds not as well to metal. You can still get the screws out. Kind of like locktight on holding a screw in but that's more for metal on metal threads.

    Lots of people put ca glue in their rod ends and shock ends to help keep them from pulling out.

    Fyi acetone (nail polish remover) will remove ca glue if on skin or other stuff.


    Oh also your screw gun tool makes it easy to take screws out. But I would always hand tighten any screw. The plastic is easy to strip out if over tightening with a power tool.

    Here are the tools I keep in in a bag in my tote I take me out wherever I go. In my tote I have spare parts and whatever may need while out in the field bashing.

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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    Ca glue is cyanoacrylate. Basically super glue. It's used in the hobby world for tons of stuff. Glue your tires on with it. Bonds well to the plastic and rubber on our cars and bonds ok to metal. I like using medium version. It's thicker.

    Basically if strip a screw out can put some in to hole screw in screw, give it 10 mins to cure. And it will give you some new threads in the plastic. Since it bonds not as well to metal. You can still get the screws out. Kind of like locktight on holding a screw in but that's more for metal on metal threads.

    Lots of people put ca glue in their rod ends and shock ends to help keep them from pulling out.

    Fyi acetone (nail polish remover) will remove ca glue if on skin or other stuff.


    Oh also your screw gun tool makes it easy to take screws out. But I would always hand tighten any screw. The plastic is easy to strip out if over tightening with a power tool.

    Here are the tools I keep in in a bag in my tote I take me out wherever I go. In my tote I have spare parts and whatever may need while out in the field bashing.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    Incredibly helpful thanks! And yes I use the DEWALT screw gun but tighten by hand with the gun to ensure I donít overtighten.


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  18. #18
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    I use a milwaukee M12 screw gun with a clutch. I set the clutch low enough so that even at full speed, the clutch releases as the screws get close to tight. I wouldn't even both with RC if I didn't have a screw gun... just can't wrench with tools like that anymore, my hands won't do it. Even still, after a few hours of wrenching, I can barely make a fist the next day! LOL!
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  19. #19
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    It’s a same they don’t offer the 2.0 in kit form. Mine was not put together well at all. I’d rather start from scratch than going thru a RTR

  20. #20
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    After straightening a bent stock pushrod, it snapped relatively easily. I would replace or keep it bent if it doesn’t make a real difference in ride height. Without limit straps, we also popped (two trucks) dog bones out, killed shock ends, and loosened push rod ends with relatively mild bashing. We shall see what difference straps make

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