Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 121
  1. #1
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Souther California
    Posts
    258

    Question about LCG chassis

    I am thinking of going LCG with my slash. My current Slash gets a lot of dirt and sand in the slipper area and center drive shaft. I assume the LCG doesnít have this problem? Are there problems I should know about?
    Slash Ultimate 4x4, MMX-2200kv/Slash 4x4, MMX-2650

  2. #2
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    163
    I bought a slash ultimate (LCG chassis) as my first truck back into the hobby and it collects tons of crap that the front wheels throw up. It is torn down for a fix and upgraded rpm arms, alum shock towers, etc and you just reminded me I need to get a chassis dust cover or shroud for it before I start running it again. Thx, added to the google keep list.

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    14,574
    Quote Originally Posted by Bif24701 View Post
    I am thinking of going LCG with my slash. My current Slash gets a lot of dirt and sand in the slipper area and center drive shaft. I assume the LCG doesn’t have this problem? Are there problems I should know about?
    I generally don't get much of anything in the slipper clutch area. The cover that goes over the spur does a great job of keeping things clean. The HCG chassis has holes in the back of it that let's dirt and other contaminants in.
    Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!

  4. #4
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    163
    Doh, I missed the part about the stuff getting in the 'slipper' itself. I was referring to my chassis would fill up with debris, not the slipper itself. Sorry if it caused any confusion.

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Posts
    437
    Quote Originally Posted by El Sob View Post
    I generally don't get much of anything in the slipper clutch area. The cover that goes over the spur does a great job of keeping things clean. The HCG chassis has holes in the back of it that let's dirt and other contaminants in.
    This is true about HCG chassis(at least mine). I destroyed 2 spurs because gear cover doesnít fit very well to stop little rock. That is only reason I bought dust cover.
    Didnít know that LCG chassis gear cover is sealed better.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    470
    If you donít run in water you can plug the drainage holes in the bottom of the HCG / Stampede rear bulkhead with small set screws. I think the size is M3x4.

    Regardless I still pull the spur cover off both my HCGs and LCGs and blow out the dust etc after every outing.

  7. #7
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Souther California
    Posts
    258
    Good Idea!
    Slash Ultimate 4x4, MMX-2200kv/Slash 4x4, MMX-2650

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Posts
    437
    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    If you donít run in water you can plug the drainage holes in the bottom of the HCG / Stampede rear bulkhead with small set screws. I think the size is M3x4.

    Regardless I still pull the spur cover off both my HCGs and LCGs and blow out the dust etc after every outing.
    Do you think that main problem are holes in the bottom, not spur cover?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    470

    Question about LCG chassis

    Iíve never been able to work it out exactly, but those are the biggest holes I can see and they get slammed into the dirt with regularity.

    I also suspect that the joins between bulkheads, diff cases and the chassis flex open in use too. Best I can tell none of the seams are a perfect seal, including the spur cover, it has some decent gaps too from memory. The clear one is much worse than the stock black one. I also run a king headz motor mount and the clear one doesnít like that.

    Iíve tried plugging various places with bluetac over time but dust and small rocks still get in here and there, much better now though.

    I still just pull the spur cover and blow it out every outing to maintain it. Itís only one screw and easy.

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Posts
    437
    I donít have problem with regular maintenance , hate when it happens in the middle of running. I guess that hd center diff will be better solution for me.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. #11
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    S.E. Michigan
    Posts
    1,455
    In the front of the chassis there is a hole the center driveshaft goes through to the front diff. This hole can sometimes catch a stone or gulp sand/dirt. I use a piece of air-conditioner replacement filter. It come in big squares and is about a quarter inch thick of a foam/mesh. I cut a small square and wrap the shaft with it and tuck in to fill the gap. It breathes real easy and adds almost no friction against the shaft. I even spray the piece with alittle WD-40 every now and then to block water splashing. Whenever I do anything that needs the shaft out. I replace the mesh piece with a new one because it gets dirty and slowly wears.

    This stuff : https://www.amazon.com/Duck-Replacem...01369899&psc=1

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    470
    Thatís a great idea! I use a piece of heat shrink to fill that gap a little, but I like that idea. Will have to give it a go.

  13. #13
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    S.E. Michigan
    Posts
    1,455
    Oh one other thing. If you can get a thin plastic square just larger than the mesh piece gently heat it and curl it around the shaft so it takes the form. I used a piece from a blister pack that a wrench was packaged in from walmart. I use it when I install the mesh by wrapping it over the mesh and shaft so it stays in place as I install the shaft. Then slip it out when I am done.
    Last edited by zedorda; 03-10-2020 at 08:13 PM.

  14. #14
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    470
    Nice touch!

  15. #15
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Souther California
    Posts
    258
    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    If you donít run in water you can plug the drainage holes in the bottom of the HCG / Stampede rear bulkhead with small set screws. I think the size is M3x4.

    Regardless I still pull the spur cover off both my HCGs and LCGs and blow out the dust etc after every outing.
    Thank you!!! I just happen to have some sets screws and they plugged the holes!!! Wow! OMG I am dumb! I wish I figured this out in Florida, hard fine quartz sand everywhere! It would eat up everything because it was going straight thru those small holes and I didnít even notice!

    Quote Originally Posted by zedorda View Post
    Oh one other thing. If you can get a thin plastic square just larger than the mesh piece gently heat it and curl it around the shaft so it takes the form. I used a piece from a blister pack that a wrench was packaged in from walmart. I use it when I install the mesh by wrapping it over the mesh and shaft so it stays in place as I install the shaft. Then slip it out when I am done.
    I will look at that, thanks.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 03-14-2020 at 09:50 PM. Reason: merge
    Slash Ultimate 4x4, MMX-2200kv/Slash 4x4, MMX-2650

  16. #16
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    470
    No worries. Take a look around the edges of the motor mount and bulkhead too. You can use a torch in a dark room to see gaps easier. Then plug it with blutac or similar if you find any. Iíve found gaps in the past but canít remember if it was only with the hot racing mount on an LCG.

  17. #17
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Souther California
    Posts
    258
    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    Iíve never been able to work it out exactly, but those are the biggest holes I can see and they get slammed into the dirt with regularity.

    I also suspect that the joins between bulkheads, diff cases and the chassis flex open in use too. Best I can tell none of the seams are a perfect seal, including the spur cover, it has some decent gaps too from memory. The clear one is much worse than the stock black one. I also run a king headz motor mount and the clear one doesnít like that.

    Iíve tried plugging various places with bluetac over time but dust and small rocks still get in here and there, much better now though.

    I still just pull the spur cover and blow it out every outing to maintain it. Itís only one screw and easy.
    I got a Traxxas AL motor mount thinking it would seal up better than a STRC, but itís the same.

    What I do have the the T-Bone Racing front bellcrank plate or something. I think it helps keeping stuff out of the drive shaft hole. But Iíve also got rocks caught in it and prevented steering.

    Here is an update. I put the 2650 in my HCG and love it so much I order a 1515-2200kv Castle Mamba Monster X ESC combo for his PEDE to LCG conversion.
    Also getting the King Headz LCG mount.
    LCG Expanded Battery kit 7426X

    The also liked the Castle B-Link so well I got another one for his truck. I like that I can control the max power with just my phone and I donít have to take it back home and all the other adjustments and settings are helpful. Itís small enough to fit in a Traxxas RX box too.

    We already have a painted Proline Raptor body but Iím not sure it will fit a LCG with 2.8 Trenchers?

    Amain Hobbies is out of the Scorched LCG inner fenders, so thatís disappointing. I have them on my HCG and they help get all the sand out of the chassis. Do a darn good job and fit well. Got a dust cover instead.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 03-14-2020 at 09:50 PM. Reason: merge
    Slash Ultimate 4x4, MMX-2200kv/Slash 4x4, MMX-2650

  18. #18
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    19004
    Posts
    83
    The LCG chassis traps a lot more garbage than the HCG ever did. I had a rock about burn through my center shaft once, and that happened quickly.

    I need to get some dust covers, one for Slash and one for my Rally (same stuff different shell).

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Souther California
    Posts
    258
    Quote Originally Posted by BlueTrane2028 View Post
    The LCG chassis traps a lot more garbage than the HCG ever did. I had a rock about burn through my center shaft once, and that happened quickly.

    I need to get some dust covers, one for Slash and one for my Rally (same stuff different shell).
    I was afraid if that! And now I canít get the inner fenders to keep dirt out. Iím glad I ordered a cover.

    here is a link to my progress. Iíve got some option parts here and diff cups from hot racing, fr/rr bumpers (slash). So far everything is going well. My front end seems to be far from perfect alignment, not sure how to start there..... but I think illl work on the rear diff.

    https://flickr.com/photos/155893542@...57713477532761


    Motor and ESC is on the way with some others.

    Check out the Album, lots of progress tonight. Waiting for parts now.

    https://flickr.com/photos/155893542@...57713477532761
    Last edited by cooleocool; 03-14-2020 at 09:49 PM. Reason: merge
    Slash Ultimate 4x4, MMX-2200kv/Slash 4x4, MMX-2650

  20. #20
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    470
    That is a quality build!!! Keep em coming!

  21. #21
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Souther California
    Posts
    258
    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    That is a quality build!!! Keep em coming!
    Thank you.

    Waiting for motor and ESC

    https://www.flickr.com/gp/155893542@N02/2Jo2p1








    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by cooleocool; 03-19-2020 at 01:58 AM. Reason: merge
    Slash Ultimate 4x4, MMX-2200kv/Slash 4x4, MMX-2650

  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    San Gabriel, California
    Posts
    8,474
    Lookin' great so far! Keep it up!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  23. #23
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Souther California
    Posts
    258
    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    Lookin' great so far! Keep it up!
    Thank you!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Got battery plug soldered onto the ESC. Is it just me or are the Traxxas pins difficult to get perfect? These came out better than the ESC for my own truck, so Iím please with it. Will be using the Sensored install, I think Sensored motors and ESC are the best thing since Brushless. The B-Link is also here, and it should fit the receiver box no problem, mine does.





    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Time to finish this build. I love Castle, the motor looks like it has been jeweled.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    I can not seem to get the car to steer straight now. Whatís the deal? It sticks to one side or the other not the middle, I set it up as instructions said.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    I think itís the bell crank. Just not swinging freely I guess though I changed the bearings.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by cooleocool; 03-19-2020 at 01:59 AM. Reason: merge
    Slash Ultimate 4x4, MMX-2200kv/Slash 4x4, MMX-2650

  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    San Gabriel, California
    Posts
    8,474
    Lube it up!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  25. #25
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Souther California
    Posts
    258
    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    Lube it up!
    Iíll try that but it seems like something is preventing the bell crank from moving freely when itís assembled. But only the center. It minor but will not drive straight and itís super frustrating for someone as particular as me.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Slash Ultimate 4x4, MMX-2200kv/Slash 4x4, MMX-2650

  26. #26
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    470
    Can you post a pic or vid of the issue? Only things I can think of offhand are the screws connecting the toe links hitting the diff case (but that affects end travel not centering) and the drag link installed wrong (but I donít think it even fits wrong?).

    Is you servo definitely centering? Some are really bad. Itís not an aftermarket servo horn causing the steering link to hit the driveshaft?

  27. #27
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Souther California
    Posts
    258
    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    Can you post a pic or vid of the issue? Only things I can think of offhand are the screws connecting the toe links hitting the diff case (but that affects end travel not centering) and the drag link installed wrong (but I donít think it even fits wrong?).

    Is you servo definitely centering? Some are really bad. Itís not an aftermarket servo horn causing the steering link to hit the driveshaft?
    I changed out the servo horn for the stock one to be sure and itís still not centering. There is some kind of resistance. Screws all fit well and I donít see any obstructions, the servo saver moves all the way till each hit the diff case, maximum. Iíll take a picture maybe Iíve got something installed wrong. Iíve never had an LCG chassis before.


    I will say I think LCG is the way to go though, it seems to have far far less roll than the PEDE and HCG Slash. So major improvements, longer wheelbase also meant less wheelies. Over all more stable.

    Another problem is with the Trencher wheels and tires. One or move are way out of balance and create a huge wobble. Iíve never balanced RC tires and wheels so I guess Iíll try that before but 4 new wheels and tires. The Trenchers are still in good shape expect for the time a car hit the truck and kind of crushed the tires. I think this tire is what is causing the most wobble. I think it could be mashed off center and that would require replacement.

    ESC and motor dropped directly into the chassis without a single modification to the chassis. Only thing I had to do was trim the other switch mounting holes from the ESC mount.

    B-Link fit into the new receiver box, and I easily calibrated the motor and ESC for a 2s test drive and it did great!

    Sensor cable and harness installed. I added several zip ties to keep the sensor cable from coming lose.

    I am considering reusing the Proline Bash Armor Stampede body. Just putting two more holes on the body and it should fit no problem. I really like the Rustler body mounting system, so that could be in the future. That would allow my son to get the body off and change batteries without my help. The Ruslter newer bodies also have badly guards and that is nice. The Bash Armor is heavy, and because it is so think difficult to mount without the proline body mounting screws pulling right out of the plastic.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Slash Ultimate 4x4, MMX-2200kv/Slash 4x4, MMX-2650

  28. #28
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    470
    So when you had the servo disconnected you could definitely feel the problem in the mechanical action of the bellcrank?

    Your wheel might be fine. It might knock itself back into shape with a few more runs. With the wheels Iíve had the premounts are almost always more unbalanced than you can get them yourself. Iíve found mounting them up, and then giving them a short spin on the car in the air, letís the foam and everything settle into balance better. Proline could easily and quickly do that in production but it doesnít look like they take the time or effort.

  29. #29
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Souther California
    Posts
    258
    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    So when you had the servo disconnected you could definitely feel the problem in the mechanical action of the bellcrank?

    Your wheel might be fine. It might knock itself back into shape with a few more runs. With the wheels Iíve had the premounts are almost always more unbalanced than you can get them yourself. Iíve found mounting them up, and then giving them a short spin on the car in the air, letís the foam and everything settle into balance better. Proline could easily and quickly do that in production but it doesnít look like they take the time or effort.
    Ok, I will try that. The imbalance doesnít seem to bad when itís on the ground, just then Iím holding it.

    I actually feel no resistance when I take the assy off and disconnecting the servo. However there is something When I reassemble it all. I can even hear the chassis creek when itís in that spot. I wonít be able to take a picture until morning but I Iíll get that up so can take a look and see what Iím missing.
    Iím not sure if this is a Traxxas AL servo saver or other but it work great on the PEDE so must be something I did or donít do.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Slash Ultimate 4x4, MMX-2200kv/Slash 4x4, MMX-2650

  30. #30
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    470
    So no resistance disassembled, but what about when all assembled but just the steering link off? That should separate it between a mechanical or a servo problem. Iíve had a broken tooth inside a servo cause a similar thing binding up a servo.

    Double checking your drag link is not upside down? Is that the name? It has a bend and Iíve almost installed it upside down a few times. Not sure it even fits together wrong but just checking.

  31. #31
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Souther California
    Posts
    258
    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    So no resistance disassembled, but what about when all assembled but just the steering link off? That should separate it between a mechanical or a servo problem. Iíve had a broken tooth inside a servo cause a similar thing binding up a servo.

    Double checking your drag link is not upside down? Is that the name? It has a bend and Iíve almost installed it upside down a few times. Not sure it even fits together wrong but just checking.
    I will check it all together and just off the servo. But yes, no restriction when I removed the front assy.
    This is a new servo and it doesnít seem to bind at all when I move it.
    The link from the servo horn to the servo saver is unique to the LCG and I think I got it right, other wise it would impact on the drive shaft.
    The servo does return to center if you turn one way, but not the other way, something is hanging it up.
    Iíll take a better look when I get home.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Slash Ultimate 4x4, MMX-2200kv/Slash 4x4, MMX-2650

  32. #32
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    470
    If the servo works fine and the mechanism works fine then it should only be left to the link.

    Did you install the servo arm on an angle as the exploded views or manual indicate? Neutral is on a slight angle. Again not that that should impact neutral, but it does hit the chassis at the end.

  33. #33
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Souther California
    Posts
    258
    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    If the servo works fine and the mechanism works fine then it should only be left to the link.

    Did you install the servo arm on an angle as the exploded views or manual indicate? Neutral is on a slight angle. Again not that that should impact neutral, but it does hit the chassis at the end.
    The horn is installed ~11 degrees off.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Slash Ultimate 4x4, MMX-2200kv/Slash 4x4, MMX-2650

  34. #34
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    14,574
    The easiest way to post pictures is to create an account on tapatalk. It would be a whole lot easier to help diagnose the problem if we could see what is going on.
    Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!

  35. #35
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Souther California
    Posts
    258
    Quote Originally Posted by El Sob View Post
    The easiest way to post pictures is to create an account on tapatalk. It would be a whole lot easier to help diagnose the problem if we could see what is going on.
    I can do that, Iím just not home right now to take pictures. I will get them up ASAP. Thanks for the interest and help guys! Iím sure we can get it right.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Final part are in for both builds.
    Extra bearings and expanded battery holder for the LCG. Also some Protek large size parts cases. I think Iím going to like these parts cases. I have a lot of extra parts.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Thanks for the King Headz motor mounts! These things are built to last!


    These bearings are nice!
    And each one comes with an extra! Wow! Good call! These look like they will handle 3-4S.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Motor and ESC installed.








    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Lunsford pins. Stock arms hold the screw in pin well, not so for RPM soft arms. But these are insurance for the fronts backing out on him.
    The retainers on these are better IMHO than the ones that come with the Traxxas AL option carriers.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    This all started BTW because I wanted my son and I longer run times...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Here is the steering. Still unsure what the problem is, feel no real resistance.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Bad servo saver, itís bent or trash or something. I guess will work until I get the Hot Racing like my truck.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    So when you had the servo disconnected you could definitely feel the problem in the mechanical action of the bellcrank?

    Your wheel might be fine. It might knock itself back into shape with a few more runs. With the wheels Iíve had the premounts are almost always more unbalanced than you can get them yourself. Iíve found mounting them up, and then giving them a short spin on the car in the air, letís the foam and everything settle into balance better. Proline could easily and quickly do that in production but it doesnít look like they take the time or effort.
    Well the wheels seem fine now! Not as bad, drivable for sure now. Nice job!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Motor mount for Dadís HCG too! Just love this motor mount! Really the perfect motor mount for this build.





    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Well, I think I can say job complete. About time for a bash! Will be taking them out first sign of good weather, bit too wet even for a waterproof ESC and motor LOL.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by cooleocool; 03-19-2020 at 02:01 AM. Reason: merge
    Slash Ultimate 4x4, MMX-2200kv/Slash 4x4, MMX-2650

  36. #36
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Souther California
    Posts
    258
    Final pictures before we destroy these things, hope not.










    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Slash Ultimate 4x4, MMX-2200kv/Slash 4x4, MMX-2650

  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. El Sob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    14,574
    Quote Originally Posted by Bif24701 View Post
    Here is the steering. Still unsure what the problem is, feel no real resistance.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Here is a picture of my steering bellcranks. Let's compare the differences if any.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!

  38. #38
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    470
    Nice work mate. Theyíre some awesome builds! Glad you like the KingHeadz, theyíll last forever.

    I think maybe your servo saver spring adjustment collar is rubbing on the chassis. It may need tightening down more?



  39. #39
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Souther California
    Posts
    258
    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    Nice work mate. Theyíre some awesome builds! Glad you like the KingHeadz, theyíll last forever.

    I think maybe your servo saver spring adjustment collar is rubbing on the chassis. It may need tightening down more?


    I have adjusted the nut tight. The marks you see are from me trying to not remove the diff and tighten the servo saver. I used a xacto knife to cut away the scratches and what not.

    I did notice that the screw heads fight really tight so I found two screws that would work but not as big. Put those on and I back off the screws a 1/4 turn to ensure not impinging. However that didnít work either.

    I am 100% convinced itís the servo saver that bad.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Quote Originally Posted by El Sob View Post
    Here is a picture of my steering bellcranks. Let's compare the differences if any.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    Thats what mine looks like, I donít see anything obviously different.

    That is the Hot Racing servo saver I have on my truck and want to put on my sons truck.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by cooleocool; 03-19-2020 at 02:02 AM. Reason: merge
    Slash Ultimate 4x4, MMX-2200kv/Slash 4x4, MMX-2650

  40. #40
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    470
    Yep, Iím stumped mate!

Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •