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  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    Nice work mate. Theyíre some awesome builds! Glad you like the KingHeadz, theyíll last forever.

    I think maybe your servo saver spring adjustment collar is rubbing on the chassis. It may need tightening down more?


    It does look like it was rubbing on the chassis. I see a ring on the inside of the cup in the chassis. I donít know what I can do about it, I have it down all the way now and still itís not free.


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  2. #42
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    As long as the cap screw heads go in their holes, and the collar is below the threaded portion, that should space it away from the chassis?

    One other thought, are the lower bearings in the bellcrank seated all the way down? Theyíre really tight. A 5mm open ended spanner / turnbuckle wrench is good to press on them evenly.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    As long as the cap screw heads go in their holes, and the collar is below the threaded portion, that should space it away from the chassis?

    One other thought, are the lower bearings in the bellcrank seated all the way down? Theyíre really tight. A 5mm open ended spanner / turnbuckle wrench is good to press on them evenly.
    Yes, because when itís all together the top bearing are flush with the plastic posts that are attached to. There is also a visual indication how far down the bearings go. I though about finding the old stock servo saver. I might try it just to see how it does.


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  4. #44
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    I think I fixed the steering. It was the left steering knuckle and C block, if I tighten the shoulder screw down in the left side it sticks. I just have to back it off about 1/10 a turn and itís free as a bird. Put some good lock tight in it and hope I wonít have to do that again...... that was super frustrating.


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  5. #45
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    Just confirming! She flys straight as an arrow! As soon as the sun is up Iíll have some pictures with the body (repurposed Stampede Brute Proline body). When weather is good Iíll put up a running video.


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  6. #46
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    Good to hear mate! Didnít even think further than the bell crank .

    Can you post a pic of it with the stampede body? Interested to see how it fits.

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    Good to hear mate! Didnít even think further than the bell crank .

    Can you post a pic of it with the stampede body? Interested to see how it fits.
    Just as soon as there is some light.


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  8. #48
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    Body on with Dusty motors dust shield and shock socks.




    I order to fit this body I flipped the rear proline body mounts around and kept the front mounts for the Stampede.




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  9. #49
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    The body seems high but itís necessary to allow full motion of all suspension.


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  10. #50
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    This body was meant for my Sons truck then realized the 2.8 Trenchers would prevent it from fitting. Well, guess I get a shinny new body.


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  11. #51
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    Question about LCG chassis

    Quote Originally Posted by Bif24701 View Post
    This body was meant for my Sons truck then realized the 2.8 Trenchers would prevent it from fitting. Well, guess I get a shinny new body.


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  12. #52
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    Thatís interesting mate. I like smaller bodies on monsters. Will have a look at that too.

    Nice work on the builds they look great and should run A1 too!

  13. #53
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    Sonís first pulls on 3S CC 1515-2200kv MMX

    https://youtu.be/8RoY9al43Hs

    My first laps,

    https://youtu.be/qV6drLuwx1o


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  14. #54
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    Going great mate! Perfect spot too.

  15. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    Going great mate! Perfect spot too.
    Thank you. Little wet today, yes itís nice.


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  16. #56
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    I use rechargeable batteries in all my radios.

    I recommend these, they are great!


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  17. #57
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    Another bash today and just one broken part.
    I bashed into my sons truck and broke the stub off his rear drive shaft. Installed a replacement and went on our way!

    No broken parts on my truck today.


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  18. #58
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    Sounds great!

    As a tip, XO-1 driveshafts fit if you also change over the bearing carriers. Theyíre a 6mm axel so they are stronger around the hex pin.

    Iím not sure if the XO-1 stub axels fit the smaller CVDs? Thereís limited compatibility between Traxxas, Tekno and MIP CV joints AFAIK so there may be a chance they will???

    Enjoy!

  19. #59
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    I thought I was using XO-1 drive shafts


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  20. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    Sounds great!

    As a tip, XO-1 driveshafts fit if you also change over the bearing carriers. Theyíre a 6mm axel so they are stronger around the hex pin.

    Iím not sure if the XO-1 stub axels fit the smaller CVDs? Thereís limited compatibility between Traxxas, Tekno and MIP CV joints AFAIK so there may be a chance they will???

    Enjoy!
    Do you have a part number?


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  21. #61
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    Sorry, my bad if so! I was looking at your pics and may have judged the scale wrong. Give me a sec on part numbers...

  22. #62
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    What steering blocks did you have, were they 6439?

    Hereís the part noís for the XO-1 shafts...


  23. #63
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    Seems weird there they list 6453 and 6753 which are 6mm and 5mm rear axel stubs respectively. Seems they maybe interchangeable to the CV joint as 6753 is a slash part. Been meaning to get my head around this properly for a while.

    I did look it up quick then and they seem to be listing the same CVD parts between the slash 4x4 and XO-1 except for the stub axels. So on first impression they do seem interchangeable. Noting though the XO-1 stubs need the bigger bearing carriers as well.

  24. #64
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    Bit hard to tell from the pic but this is a slash 4x4 CVD and a new XO-1 CVD. Difference between the dust boots and adhesive heatshrink makes the comparison hard but the do indeed appear to be the same other than the stub axel.

    I mistakenly previously thought the XO-1s were heavier duty over all.

  25. #65
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    So basically same CVD with a 6mm stub axel?


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  26. #66
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    As best as I can tell.

    They use bigger wheel bearings too 6x12x4 vs 5x11x4.

    The 6mm stubs require the XO-1 bearing carriers front / rear and either the XO-1 17mm hexes or Traxxas also makes a specific 12mm hex for them too.

  27. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    As best as I can tell.

    They use bigger wheel bearings too 6x12x4 vs 5x11x4.

    The 6mm stubs require the XO-1 bearing carriers front / rear and either the XO-1 17mm hexes or Traxxas also makes a specific 12mm hex for them too.
    That would be nice but I would have to get all new carriers and bearings. I just got all new stuff lol.


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  28. #68
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    Yep just a tip to keep in mind as time progresses. Itís a bit of an expensive upgrade to take on, even from the start.

    I picked up that 2nd hand set of slash CVDs cheap and restored them. Has been in my mind wondering if I can convert them, but havenít found a affordable way to do it, especially in Australia, so much more expensive here.

  29. #69
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    Far out! Forgot to post the comparison pic before :/


  30. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    Far out! Forgot to post the comparison pic before :/

    Looks like the 4mm nut will still fit. I think I may go with MIP if I have to replace more. The MIP donít have a pin going through the center of the axel. Although the pins are cheap I have broken so many during assembly because of over torque the retainers. The MIP simply fail far less often, though I have certainly broken some of them too.

    I did find a problem in my truck after I got it on the bench. A synthetic fiber got caught in the wheel areas and stripped the plastic 12mm nut of the wheel. I think it will hold for one more bash today but Iím going to replace these with 2.8 Badlands and 17mm MIP hub adapters.


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  31. #71
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    Or maybe Iíll use Hot Racing 17mm adapters, they seem to have less parts so maybe they will be better than the MIPs.


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  32. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    If you donít run in water you can plug the drainage holes in the bottom of the HCG / Stampede rear bulkhead with small set screws. I think the size is M3x4.

    Regardless I still pull the spur cover off both my HCGs and LCGs and blow out the dust etc after every outing.
    I just want to say how thankful I am that you said this.
    I found perfect set screws for each of those 4 holes, 2 different sizes. It was like they were meant to plugged..... and this whole time I couldnít figure out how to keep crap out of my chassis.


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  33. #73
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    Question about LCG chassis

    Youíre welcome! See how it goes for you. Always so many little places stuff gets in but every little bit helps hey. Iím having trouble with the ends of my Outerwears sitting up too high at the mo. Thinking of trying to seal it up a bit better with foam but havenít made the time yet.

    Yep, 4mm thread still on XO-1 stubs. Same barrel nut hub retainers.

    From what Iíve read people really prefer the Hot Racing 12-17mm adapters on the MIPs. I found a 2ndhand set and when I get them going Iíll go that way after peopleís recommendations.

    The beach looks great. Seeing a dog at the beach always inevitably brushes off some of that happiness on me!

  34. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    Youíre welcome! See how it goes for you. Always so many little places stuff gets in but every little bit helps hey. Iím having trouble with the ends of my Outerwears sitting up too high at the mo. Thinking of trying to seal it up a bit better with foam but havenít made the time yet.

    Yep, 4mm thread still on XO-1 stubs. Same barrel nut hub retainers.

    From what Iíve read people really prefer the Hot Racing 12-17mm adapters on the MIPs. I found a 2ndhand set and when I get them going Iíll go that way after peopleís recommendations.

    The beach looks great. Seeing a dog at the beach always inevitably brushes off some of that happiness on me!
    Yea I had the MIP ones and they are not the best.

    My slipper seems to be backing out? That seems to be why Iím burning bearings, thatís strange. Maybe another reason To go LCG. My sons truck had zero problems today and if I didnít hit the truck yesterday perfectly on the wheel it would have had no problem again. The only thing I had issues with other than those two was the plastic servo horn, I had the AL but put the stock one back on when I was T/S the steering jam.


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  35. #75
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    I pinch the flat of the slipper in a bench vice and cinch it up until it is only barely able to be moved. Takes more than I thought. Seems to go ok that way. Mostly locked, but will still slip before the driveline snaps.


  36. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    I pinch the flat of the slipper in a bench vice and cinch it up until it is only barely able to be moved. Takes more than I thought. Seems to go ok that way. Mostly locked, but will still slip before the driveline snaps.

    I mean the whole bearing and clutch are moving a 1/8Ē to the rear.


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  37. #77
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    Ah yeah that! I always forget to measure before disassembling so I can put the right size shim in!

  38. #78
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    Question about LCG chassis

    Actually, Iím just working on a stamp4de now so I took a look. I have the diffs out, so I pushed the rear diff input gear all the way into its bearing seat and it stopped any movement of the slipper back and forward.

    That being the case, Iím thinking that any movement when assembled results in play between the rear diff input and ring gears. (Because for there to be any play at all that input gear needs to slide back towards the ring gear)

    Seems to open the potential to shim that input gear into the ring gear properly by the right size spacer behind the slipper bearing adapter to push the slipper back? (ie between the bearing and the bearing adapter)

    I was also able to measure another I have assembled and it seems to be a movement of around 0.7mm. So maybe a 0.5mm shim might be worth a go?

  39. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by boosta View Post
    Actually, Iím just working on a stamp4de now so I took a look. I have the diffs out, so I pushed the rear diff input gear all the way into its bearing seat and it stopped any movement of the slipper back and forward.

    That being the case, Iím thinking that any movement when assembled results in play between the rear diff input and ring gears. (Because for there to be any play at all that input gear needs to slide back towards the ring gear)

    Seems to open the potential to shim that input gear into the ring gear properly by the right size spacer behind the slipper bearing adapter to push the slipper back? (ie between the bearing and the bearing adapter)

    I was also able to measure another I have assembled and it seems to be a movement of around 0.7mm. So maybe a 0.5mm shim might be worth a go?
    Maybe, this is what I mean.



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  40. #80
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    Doesnít seem to be any damage and the LCG bearing looks to have backed out slightly too, though not as much.

    I took the HCG and added three of the low friction washers that go on the wheel bearings and I put them on the rear of the input shaft. Maybe that will help give a little push back. However that may not be enough since the rear diff input is concave.


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