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Thread: Welp....

  1. #1
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    Welp....

    Darn it. Oh well, replaced and ready to fly another day. LHS only had the 46 tooth spur so I guess I dropped 4 teeth on that, same 16 tooth pinion so she might be a touch faster (not that I need it, ha). Curious, what was the most recent repair every one has done on their E-Revo? Let us know.

    it's alright son, I'll fix it
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Just ordered a set of front RPM arms for my v2. Ripped a pillow ball out last fall and "fixed" it in the field by using a small ziptie jammed in it to get me by.

    Although, I vaguely remember seeing that the 1.0 RPM arms work on the 2.0... which I have a full set of from when I transferred all the necessary parts over when I got the 2.0 roller. I had true-track on the rear, which won't work, but pretty sure the fronts would... without the v1 rpm carriers.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  3. #3
    RC Racer
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    Backed my revo into a stump the other day and broke one of the rear toe links so have make a trip the LHS.

  4. #4
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fozzy71 View Post
    Backed my revo into a stump the other day and broke one of the rear toe links so have make a trip the LHS.
    I can think of worse things than going to the lhs,ha! I know I usually look around to much and end up with more than originally intended, keep tunnel vision my friend.

    it's alright son, I'll fix it
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  5. #5
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    Just ordered a set of front RPM arms for my v2. Ripped a pillow ball out last fall and "fixed" it in the field by using a small ziptie jammed in it to get me by.

    Although, I vaguely remember seeing that the 1.0 RPM arms work on the 2.0... which I have a full set of from when I transferred all the necessary parts over when I got the 2.0 roller. I had true-track on the rear, which won't work, but pretty sure the fronts would... without the v1 rpm carriers.
    Brilliant field fix olds! I seem to recall the rpm front arms will work, and the rear true track will not. Let us know if that isn't the case.

    it's alright son, I'll fix it
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    The true track do not fit, not without throwing money at it to get aftermarket cvd's for the v1. When the arms show up, I'll compare them to what I have on my other revo's as they all have RPM arms. I only ordered a set of the 2.0 specific fronts for now, since I damaged one of those.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Well... the 2.0 RPM arms don't seem to work well, or at least with integy rockers on the front. The arms hit the rockers on full extension. I ground the underside of the rockers some and a bit of the arm, so they lightly touch now. They are shaped different than stock.

    Guess I should have just bought a new set of stocks to replace mine... oh well.
    2.0 RPM (black) vs 1.0 RPM (blue):




    Clearance issue:



    I didn't notice this issue on my ERBEv1 chassis, perhaps it was. I have RPM on my 2 nitro revo's too... not sure either has integy rockers though, will have to check and see if they have the same issue and I just didn't notice it until now.

    To rub salt in the wound, the place I ordered the front arms from sent me one set of black and one of blue... in the same package. You would think the person packaging them would have at least thought the same color should be sent, since the color I paid for was blue.
    Last edited by olds97_lss; 03-17-2020 at 10:22 AM.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  8. #8
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    My rockers touch the a-arms stock p2, with RPM a arms.


    Maybe we have to put the a-arms in the lower arm hing pin hole. For me I never noticed till I went and looked at mine.


    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Acidic01; 03-18-2020 at 12:23 AM.

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    My rockers touch the a-arms stock p2, with RPM a arms.


    Maybe we have to put the a-arms in the lower arm hing pin hole. For me I never noticed till I went and looked at mine.


    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    Thank you for posting that!

    I could have swore that in the instructions, RPM says do not use the lower holes as then the arm will make contact with the diff output cup... I don't usually read such things, but this time, I did. Although, I threw the instructions away...

    Found them on RPM's site:

    ERBEv2 instructions:
    Upper A-arm Notes: RPM Upper Front A-arms were designed to utilize
    most of the adjustability options available on the Revo 2.0. However, do not
    run the Upper A-arm in the lower roll-center hinge pin hole. The A-arm will
    contact the outdrive of the axle.

    Revo v1 instructions:
    However, there is one condition that you may see interference. If you are
    using 120LT rockers AND the shock rod is attached to the lower A-arm in
    the innermost hole, do not run the RPM Revo Upper A-arm in the lower rollcenter
    hinge pin hole. You may possibly run this configuration if you use
    aftermarket axles that aren't as thick as stock slider shaft axles. All other
    adjustability options will work well with our front A-arms.

    I never used the lower hole and I"m not sure how using it would affect handling. I know it's called "roll center", but I don't know what the result is. Perhaps make it more tippy when turning?
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Ordered a different set of alloy rockers. Similar to what's on one of my nitro revo's. It doesn't capture the shock end and only mounts on the top side, so all that sticks out the bottom is a button head screw. Perhaps that will add the clearance I need.

    RPM replied to my inquiry about it saying it's because I'm using aftermarket rockers...

    The ones I ordered are from atomik and are similar to the hot racing ones I have:


    I mounted mine with a locknut so I could take the shock off without removing the rocker, but guessing I won't be able to do that if I want to scavenge the extra space for clearance. I don't like the non-captured rockers as much though. Puts a lot of strain on a 3mm screw.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Installed a set of Atomik rockers today. I didn't like the thought of the screw being held by threads in the rocker, so I drilled them out and used locknuts. They still made contact, but very minimal. Shaved a hair off the arm where the nut hit it. If I hadn't mounted with the nut/washer to capture the ball end, they would have cleared with room to spare. But, then I would have had to take the front chassis brace, shock and rocker off if I break a ball end in the field. And if either bolt snapped off, I'd be out of luck until I got home, even then, not sure I'd be able to get the busted bolt out, unless I used long ones that stuck out the top.



    I had to use 2 inner bearing races and a couple shims to make it so the bearings didn't get crushed when tightening down the pivot post bolt. These rockers were milled with the recess too far apart by about 1mm.

    I've yet to buy an aftermarket rocker (except for 1 set of integy's, which are what I removed off this truck) that didn't require either grinding (which is a total pain with a dremel), or crush spacers.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

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