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  1. #1
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    3.3 Revo 2020 update

    Hi all!

    I got an old Revo 3.3 i'm preparing for the track with the must haves for racing. Here is the list:

    - Rpm extended wheelbase rear arms
    - Center diff
    - Rear brake
    - Close ratio gears
    - Sway bars
    - 17mm hexes
    - New servos / single steering servo
    - Heavy duty servo saver spring
    - Single steering arm + longer servo horn
    - Platinum body
    - 1/8 scale air filter
    - Rear wing
    - Would E-Revo 2.0 axle carriers fit the 3.3 truck?

    These are the hop-ups I found for cheap nowadays. It's a fun build for an astroturf 1/8 scale track. I hope the truck holds up that much grip.

    I got a Dynamite mach turbo .21 and a GRP .21 nitro engines laying around. Have you ever tried to fit any of these engines?

    I'm trying to save as much as possible weight to save up transmission gears from stripping.

    What would you recommend? Looking for advice.

    Thank you so much
    Last edited by lexuabest; 03-25-2020 at 06:35 PM.

  2. #2
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    I never tried installing a big block without a new era leaner mount. Although, since your racing, you may want to stick with the 3.3 as going much over that usually ends up cooking the trans gears/pins. I know mine didn't hold up well even to the 21TM. Kept folding the pins over on the final output gears. Once I replaced everything with RRP steel, the issues went away entirely.

    The 2.0 carriers use different bearing sizes. You would end up with really weird sized bearings you may not be able to find to fit stock 2.5/3.3 axles. The 2.0 axles/cvd's require the diff cups, which I don't think will bolt up either.

    Maybe go with RPM true track on the rear. I always ran RPM arms/carriers on my revos, but they never saw a track. The carriers may be fine for racing, but the arms might be a bit flexy giving you poor consistency.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  3. #3
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    You're right. RPM parts flex that much that don't give any consistency at the track. But for 5$ each pair they were a must.

    As you said i may want to keep the 3.3. Transmission gears have held really well on asphalt with the grippy stock tires. The truck is brand new, doesn't have a entire gallon on it. First time i put it on the track (everything stock) the motor mounted screw came loose and i ended up eating the spur gear. That's the only issue i had with the truck so far, and was not trucks fault.

    I want to run the truck as is, i don't want to throw RR steel gears in so it ends up on the cost of a new true racing truggy. Also, there's not a steel gear center diff to run with RR steel gears. So weak point would be just switched to the next weak and more expensive part.

    I would like to know if any of you have had any more issues with stock transmission.

    Stay safe.

  4. #4
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    When I had the 3.3, I had the FOC in the trans, but not a center diff. Never had issues with it really. Only started having issues when I put larger engines on it. I always ran the standard ratio gear set as well.

    One of my revo's started as a slayer. I replaced the input/2-speed with RRP, but never replaced the final primary gears, so it's geared weird. It's my big block revo. I have a bell/spur on it that seems geared way too low for a big block, but with the taller final gears, it's geared right.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  5. #5
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    I have been doing some research to plan future upgrades is everything goes well with the current setup, and found you on a very interesting post in rctalk about side pipes.

    I'm currently running stock blue pipe. Does Resonator pipe make a difference?

    I have found that some easy modifications can be done.
    - Drilling pipe stinger, found here: https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...illing-stinger
    - Cutting header flange, found here: https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...r-mod-on-a-3-3
    - Fit an OS 11k carb i have laying around
    - Side pipe setup using Jammin crt.5 in-line manifold. Does stock pipe or jato resonator pipe fit? Resonator pipes are found for cheap nowadays.
    - I will be converting the truck to bump start as soon as possible
    Last edited by lexuabest; 03-27-2020 at 06:04 AM.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by lexuabest View Post
    I have been doing some research to plan future upgrades is everything goes well with the current setup, and found you on a very interesting post in rctalk about side pipes.

    I'm currently running stock blue pipe. Does Resonator pipe make a difference?

    I have found that some easy modifications can be done.
    - Drilling pipe stinger, found here: https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...illing-stinger
    - Cutting header flange, found here: https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...r-mod-on-a-3-3
    - Fit an OS 11k carb i have laying around
    - Side pipe setup using Jammin crt.5 in-line manifold. Does stock pipe or jato resonator pipe fit? Resonator pipes are found for cheap nowadays.
    - I will be converting the truck to bump start as soon as possible
    Anyone?????

  7. #7
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Blue vs resonator: Resonator. Do you want the SC or DC? They produce different power curves.

    Cutting header: That is when the only one produced was the bolt-on and it broke right at the flange. Go with the Platinum Edition header (held by springs) and install two springs. I broke a couple then went to the PE header and the problem went away. Now I run a THS pipe & header.

    11k carb - if you want to. Just start with O.S.'s baseline settings and tune from there.
    The Super Derecho

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    Blue vs resonator: Resonator. Do you want the SC or DC? They produce different power curves.

    Cutting header: That is when the only one produced was the bolt-on and it broke right at the flange. Go with the Platinum Edition header (held by springs) and install two springs. I broke a couple then went to the PE header and the problem went away. Now I run a THS pipe & header.

    11k carb - if you want to. Just start with O.S.'s baseline settings and tune from there.
    Thanks for the reply.

    Blue vs resonator: I haven't tested the truck on the track yet to know what power curve do i need. For now i would like just to know is there is an improvement between stock blue and a resonator

  9. #9
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lexuabest View Post
    - Drilling pipe stinger, found here: https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...illing-stinger
    - Cutting header flange, found here: https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...r-mod-on-a-3-3
    I did these things with my first revo which was a 2.5R short chassis. Ended up replacing the engine with a 18TM, got the spring mounted rear header and ran a fantom stainless pipe.

    Drilling out the pipe did make it breath a bit better, but it wasn't a night and day type of thing.

    Later with my second revo, it was a 3.3 and I tried making it perform a bit better, got a THS low end pipe (rear exhaust) and had the 18TM in a drawer with many many gallons through it, so used the carb on the 3.3. The pipe helped low end a bit, again, not sure it was worth the $70 price tag. The 18TM carb didn't improve power at all, but it did make it much more stable to tune. I thought perhaps since I got the truck used, the 3.3 in it was abused/worn, so I replaced it with a new one...

    I ended up getting a 21TM. Before installing the 21TM, I threw the 18TM in it just to see how it did and it was an improvement over the 3.3. The 21TM was a good compromise vs installing a big block, just pricey.

    I don't think I ever ran a side pipe with a small block... I may have, but that was something I did with a big block a lot more, but still ended up going with a rear mounted THS BB pipe/modified header.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    I did these things with my first revo which was a 2.5R short chassis. Ended up replacing the engine with a 18TM, got the spring mounted rear header and ran a fantom stainless pipe.

    Drilling out the pipe did make it breath a bit better, but it wasn't a night and day type of thing.

    Later with my second revo, it was a 3.3 and I tried making it perform a bit better, got a THS low end pipe (rear exhaust) and had the 18TM in a drawer with many many gallons through it, so used the carb on the 3.3. The pipe helped low end a bit, again, not sure it was worth the $70 price tag. The 18TM carb didn't improve power at all, but it did make it much more stable to tune. I thought perhaps since I got the truck used, the 3.3 in it was abused/worn, so I replaced it with a new one...

    I ended up getting a 21TM. Before installing the 21TM, I threw the 18TM in it just to see how it did and it was an improvement over the 3.3. The 21TM was a good compromise vs installing a big block, just pricey.

    I don't think I ever ran a side pipe with a small block... I may have, but that was something I did with a big block a lot more, but still ended up going with a rear mounted THS BB pipe/modified header.
    very helpful and complete answer. Thank you so much!
    Last edited by lexuabest; 03-31-2020 at 01:08 PM.

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