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  1. #1
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    Rear Toe 2wd Rustler Help

    Every since I bought this rustler (used) it has been a nightmare to drive. At first I was trying bashing on grass and it's near impossible to keep from doing instant donuts as soon as I give just the least bit of trigger. Since it was obvious it was not going to be a basher I decided to make it a speed truck (figured hard surfaces it may not spin out). Well it is no easier to drive on pavement it wonders all over. I get it going try to slightly bring speed up and each time I give it a little more power it makes a big move to right or left. I have changed all carriers, new bearings, new rpm wide a arms on front, rear has rpm a arms that are tight, set toe on front, played with camber, etc. I purchased a toe end gauge and my rear toe is out probably 3/16"! How do I fix this?



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  2. #2
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    Rear should have toe-in, not toe-out (toe-out is for the front).

    ~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    Rear should have toe-in, not toe-out (toe-out is for the front).

    ~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
    Yes I am completely aware of this. Now tell me how to get toe in on rear?


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  4. #4
    RC Qualifier Panther6834's Avatar
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    First, are you actually talking about toe-in/toe-out? Or camber? You say "toe-in/toe-out", yet your first photo shows a camber gauge? Others can't help you if you're not even certain which you're trying to adjust.

    ~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
    ~ Love, laughter & kindness makes the world better

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    First, are you actually talking about toe-in/toe-out? Or camber? You say "toe-in/toe-out", yet your first photo shows a camber gauge? Others can't help you if you're not even certain which you're trying to adjust.

    ~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
    It's a toe gauge, not sure he read the directions.


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  6. #6
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    Try switching your bearing carriers from side to side.

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgechrgr469 View Post
    Try switching your bearing carriers from side to side.

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    Just did and it's still wider in front versus back. Could it be the (I don't know what it's called) the bracket a arms connect to that's between chassis and transmission?


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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther6834 View Post
    First, are you actually talking about toe-in/toe-out? Or camber? You say "toe-in/toe-out", yet your first photo shows a camber gauge? Others can't help you if you're not even certain which you're trying to adjust.

    ~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
    Picture is of a toe gauge. I rear wheels toed in not out and they are not adjustable.


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  9. #9
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    I'm not a Rustler/Bandit expert but if the transmission (gearbox) is the same as a Slash the brackets that the inner part of the arms connect to are part of the transmission and aren't adjustable. You can get a trans case with separate adjustable brackets like Pro-Line, RPM and others. There are also the outer bearing carriers that offer different degrees of toe in, if your rear has a lot of toe out you might want a carrier with 5į of toe in.

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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgechrgr469 View Post
    I'm not a Rustler/Bandit expert but if the transmission (gearbox) is the same as a Slash the brackets that the inner part of the arms connect to are part of the transmission and aren't adjustable. You can get a trans case with separate adjustable brackets like Pro-Line, RPM and others. There are also the outer bearing carriers that offer different degrees of toe in, if your rear has a lot of toe out you might want a carrier with 5į of toe in.

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    I have done some searching and not seen a carrier with toe built in. Figured if I posted here someone may know of one? I seen 1.5 for nitro rustler. However I am pretty new to rc trucks (I am a gas powered boat guy) and don't know which parts interchange and which don't.


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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgechrgr469 View Post
    I'm not a Rustler/Bandit expert but if the transmission (gearbox) is the same as a Slash the brackets that the inner part of the arms connect to are part of the transmission and aren't adjustable. You can get a trans case with separate adjustable brackets like Pro-Line, RPM and others. There are also the outer bearing carriers that offer different degrees of toe in, if your rear has a lot of toe out you might want a carrier with 5į of toe in.

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    My rustler has an a arm mount that is 1 piece and sets on top of chassis in between transmission and chassis.


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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dockguy View Post
    My rustler has an a arm mount that is 1 piece and sets on top of chassis in between transmission and chassis.


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    Like a Slash 2wd trans, thought so. Check if STRC has the bearing carriers. I'm at work or I could look at my cars.

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  13. #13
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    Ok I did figure out my A Rm mount is a Pro line. I did put a pro line transmission in so obviously I that mount came with it.


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  14. #14
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    They do have 1*

    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F303280817305


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  15. #15
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    Most of my Pro-Line arm mounts are 0į toe with different amounts of anti-squat angles
    Not sure what the unmarked mounts are toe wise. You don't happen to have your rear arms switched around?

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  16. #16
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    Will these fit my electric rustler.

    https://www.rcplanet.com/traxxas-rea...4-tec-tra4352/


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  17. #17
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    Not sure if they will work myself.

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  18. #18
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    One thing to consider- if youíre really trying to get your camber dialed in, you will get more accuracy by using unmounted wheels only. The tire sidewalk that protrudes over the wheel lip makes it all but impossible to get a perfect reading.


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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by RC Dad View Post
    One thing to consider- if youíre really trying to get your camber dialed in, you will get more accuracy by using unmounted wheels only. The tire sidewalk that protrudes over the wheel lip makes it all but impossible to get a perfect reading.


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    Yes I have noticed this! I know I can not get exact toe. However I do know I can get very close. Bottom line is my toe is definitely out. How do I get it in? This truck is a nightmare to drive


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  20. #20
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    The rear toe is fixed, affected by either the inboard a-arm mounts, or some of the different bearing carriers that are available.

    The only adjustable setting is the camber, provided you have the adjustable links. -1 deg is a good starting point.

    I have the FLM transmission and use the the +3 deg. toe in with -1 deg camber. Seems to track pretty straight...


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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by RC Dad View Post
    The rear toe is fixed, affected by either the inboard a-arm mounts, or some of the different bearing carriers that are available.

    The only adjustable setting is the camber, provided you have the adjustable links. -1 deg is a good starting point.

    I have the FLM transmission and use the the +3 deg. toe in with -1 deg camber. Seems to track pretty straight...


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    Speed runs?


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  22. #22
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    Rear Toe 2wd Rustler Help

    Do I do speed runs? Not really, mostly a basher. But Iíve had the gearing to where it was probably going around 65 or so. And even with the stock body and ribbed tires, it tracked straight.

    Can you post some close up pics of the a-arms at the inboard mounting point, as well as the outer area where the bearing carriers are?


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  23. #23
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    Here's the close ups





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  24. #24
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    I donít see anything obvious there. What kind of toe measurements are you getting now?


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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by RC Dad View Post
    I donít see anything obvious there. What kind of toe measurements are you getting now?


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    My first picture on post 1 shows how much wider it is in front. The gauge was set to back side


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  26. #26
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    Rear Toe 2wd Rustler Help

    Well, we know that there is no adjustment for rear toe-in/out. The fixed setting is only affected by hardware like the inboard a-arm mounts/toe blocks that some transmission manufacturers offer, or bearing carriers like the ones STRC makes.

    Does the proline toe block list how much toe in it is supposed to produce? Is it possible it was installed backwards? You definitely do not want toe out for the rear drive wheels.


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    Last edited by RC Dad; 03-30-2020 at 07:14 AM.

  27. #27
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    I did pull it all apart Saturday to check toe block and it only goes on one way. I will check with PL on toe. Just looking at it it appears right wheel is toed out and left wheel is straight.


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  28. #28
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    Can you take a pic looking straight down from above the vehicle, vehicle pointing forward?


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  29. #29
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    Rear Toe 2wd Rustler Help

    First pic is the rpm tranny with 3deg toe in.



    2nd pic is FLM trans with 4deg toe in




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    Last edited by RC Dad; 03-30-2020 at 07:23 AM.

  30. #30
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    Yes I will tonight


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  31. #31
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  32. #32
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    Is the a arm bent? Kinda looks like one side is more forward then the other

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  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve g View Post
    Is the a arm bent? Kinda looks like one side is more forward then the other

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    It could be? But I would think bent forward would cause toe in


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  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve g View Post
    Is the a arm bent? Kinda looks like one side is more forward then the other

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    Measuring from center of front hub to center of rear hub one side is 1/8" further forward.


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  35. #35
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    Maybe try picking up a set of the stock a-arms. I feel like the RPM ones are too flexible for this particular part.

    I do have them on one of our rustlers, but in hindsight, I would have used the traxxas ones.

    They also came out with a new batch of a-arms for the rustlers and other vehicles. Supposed to be tougher than stock.

    I was looking into the proline transmission to see what their toe block gives you, but I couldnít find any specs.


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  36. #36
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    Pro-Line has their Pro-Arms for front and rear of 2wd's, they look nice, I'd like to try a set. Then there's their Pro-Trac or Pro2 arms also. They are ridgid and heavy duty.

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  37. #37
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    My brushless Rustler is twitchy as all get out. Really struggles to get the power down and spins the moment you give it throttle. Noticed that the 4x4s have 2.5* of toe in the rear where the 2wds don't get that. I'm a sucker for a challenge and I feel the way it drives is making me better by leaps and bounds every time I run the truck, but it's getting old.

    Ordered up the 1* STRC carriers, I needed some metal back there anyways, keep breaking the plastic ones. Will see how they affect the handling and report back.

    I'm resisting going right to RPM or FLM transmissions, as they are more drastic than the 4x4s are, I don't think I want more than 2.5* of toe in. Would probably love it to see 2* at a bearing carrier or trans, but that doesn't seem to be an option at the time.

    Will update once the new ones are on, whether I like it or not.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueTrane2028 View Post
    My brushless Rustler is twitchy as all get out. Really struggles to get the power down and spins the moment you give it throttle. Noticed that the 4x4s have 2.5* of toe in the rear where the 2wds don't get that. I'm a sucker for a challenge and I feel the way it drives is making me better by leaps and bounds every time I run the truck, but it's getting old.

    Ordered up the 1* STRC carriers, I needed some metal back there anyways, keep breaking the plastic ones. Will see how they affect the handling and report back.

    I'm resisting going right to RPM or FLM transmissions, as they are more drastic than the 4x4s are, I don't think I want more than 2.5* of toe in. Would probably love it to see 2* at a bearing carrier or trans, but that doesn't seem to be an option at the time.

    Will update once the new ones are on, whether I like it or not.
    I saw you went with GRPís. What compound. Are you running traction compound, do you heat them up, is it warm outside. If the conditions arenít right those are the worst tires. You also may need to use a sealed diff with thick oil. Iím at 500k now.


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  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueTrane2028 View Post
    My brushless Rustler is twitchy as all get out. Really struggles to get the power down and spins the moment you give it throttle. Noticed that the 4x4s have 2.5* of toe in the rear where the 2wds don't get that. I'm a sucker for a challenge and I feel the way it drives is making me better by leaps and bounds every time I run the truck, but it's getting old.

    Ordered up the 1* STRC carriers, I needed some metal back there anyways, keep breaking the plastic ones. Will see how they affect the handling and report back.

    I'm resisting going right to RPM or FLM transmissions, as they are more drastic than the 4x4s are, I don't think I want more than 2.5* of toe in. Would probably love it to see 2* at a bearing carrier or trans, but that doesn't seem to be an option at the time.

    Will update once the new ones are on, whether I like it or not.
    I also ordered a set of the STRC 1* and plan to replace the arms. Mine is same way as soon as you touch throttle it moves or spins out. I have managed to nurse it up to 3/4 throttle and figured could go WOT at point. NO DICE heads straight for the ditch


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  40. #40
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    I ran my rustler with the 1* carriers. Itís an improvement for sure, but doesnít exactly render it docile either. Now Iím curious what it would drive like at 2* or more.

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