Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 64
  1. #1
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    141

    Bunch of suspension questions for Revo 3.3...

    Since I decided to order the RPM True-track kit for my Revo, Iím now at a bit of a concern after I read somewhere, [or might of heard on a YouTube video] about it supposedly not being recommended to use this kit if you have the long-travel suspension arm kit that comes with the truck brand new, installed... is that true, or am I fine to run my new truetracks with the long travel kit?

    I decided the truetracks were a good idea because after I decided to replace those flimsy dry-rotted dust boots on the axle shafts, and while I was at it, I figured Iíd replace the dust boots on the axle carriers as well because they were all dry-rotted too, I had to take apart everything to do it but I donít think I got the camber/caster settings back to what they were supposed to be on the back so when I saw these, I liked that it takes away the need to fool with all that stuff on the rear axle.

    But moving on to the long travel kit subject, do I really need that installed over the stock setup? I switched up to the long travel kit years ago not long after I bought the truck over 10 years ago because if memory serves me correctly, I did it because the truck kept bottoming out so I figured the long-travel kit was essentially like a lift kit.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2. #2
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    141
    Well, after doing a little more research, I think Iíve about come to the conclusion that Iím just gonna take off the LT kit I put on years and years ago because Iím kinda starting to not doubt at all that itís true that the LT kit does affect handling for this truck and even states that itís more for advanced users. I really wish I could remember what my primary purpose was putting them on there in the first place because back then when I first got this truck, I really didnít know much at all about this level/degree of the R/C world. Lol.

    But since this is a thread that discusses pretty much all points of suspension-related topics, what are some pointers on ride-height settings with the regular suspension rockers and springs that come on these trucks factory? Should I look into getting different non-LT springs? I canít remember but if Iím not mistaken, didnít the original Revo only come with one front and rear set of shock absorber coils for the included LT kit?

    But I will say that all this time Iíve ran the truck with the LT kit on, it has actually sucked a little bit lol. I just chalked it up to inexperience. Maybe it wasnít just me because out of all the time Iíve ran this truck which ainít really been much, I donít think Iíve been driving it on terrains where the extra travel is necessary. Primarily just streets, gravel and sand flats is all this truck has seen.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    62
    I still can't comment on a handling of a Revo, but I can tell you by experience that the best handling RC is the one oriented for racing. I would suggest you to go with Steve Slaydens racing guide.

    Put P2 rockers on and get a bottle of 50wt Team Associated shock oil. Put #1 pistons up front with Gold springs and #2 pistons on the rear with Tan springs.

    Absolutely every RC car will bottom out on a big jump, the most important part is to land properly. Arms level is the most common and the go to ride height.

    My current suspension set up for testing is:
    P2 rockers
    - Front: #1 pistons, 800cst Xray oil(60wt +/-), black springs
    - Rear: #2 pistons, 800cst Xray oil(60wt +/-), gray springs
    This setup is oriented for a high grip astroturf track i will be racing on. It looks like it has excessive pack although I built the shock with 0 rebound, but I think that this is the best i can get with 2x1.0mm and 2x1.1mm pistons. 3 hole pistons do not have enough pack to stop the truck from bottoming out easily.
    Last edited by lexuabest; 04-01-2020 at 01:10 AM.

  4. #4
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    2,835
    I never ran LT rockers/rods. I tried P3 rockers/rods once... it was hard on things.

    I've used P2 rockers/rods with vdk #2, 60wt oil RPM arms/carriers in front, true-track in rear, pushrods in the center holes on the arms.

    On my big block revo, I run silver/purple springs (heavier in rear).
    On my small block revo, I run silver/blue springs (heavier in rear).
    On my ERBEv1, I ran RC Raven dual rate springs.

    Now that I've converted my ERBEv1 to a v2 (via a roller), I no longer run true-track in the rear, just stock arms. I recently installed RPM arms in the front due to ripping the pillow ball out of one side and ran into fitment issues. I had integy p2 rockers and they would hit the arm at about 3/4 extension. I'm trying atomik rockers now, they still hit just a little and I ground a bit off the arm so it just clears. I'm using locknuts and a washer on the bottom side "capturing" the ball end and drilled out the threads in the rocker. If I had used a button head screw from the bottom threaded into the rocker, it would have cleared, but I didn't want to rely on the threads in the rocker as if the screw snaps off, then I'm stuck. in hind sight, I could have used a longer button head screw so the threads stuck out the top of the rocker, then I could have used that to remove it if the screw snapped off.

    I'm just a basher and I try to set up my revos so they absorb a landing relatively well, but allow it to bottom out on the chassis, then recover quickly. I used to run heavier oil, but that caused the shock pistons to snap and wore rod ends/shock ends out very quickly. Now I just live with the fact that they bottom out pretty hard and avoid landing on pavement/concrete off a big jump.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  5. #5
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    141
    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    I never ran LT rockers/rods. I tried P3 rockers/rods once... it was hard on things.

    I've used P2 rockers/rods with vdk #2, 60wt oil RPM arms/carriers in front, true-track in rear, pushrods in the center holes on the arms.

    On my big block revo, I run silver/purple springs (heavier in rear).
    On my small block revo, I run silver/blue springs (heavier in rear).
    On my ERBEv1, I ran RC Raven dual rate springs.

    Now that I've converted my ERBEv1 to a v2 (via a roller), I no longer run true-track in the rear, just stock arms. I recently installed RPM arms in the front due to ripping the pillow ball out of one side and ran into fitment issues. I had integy p2 rockers and they would hit the arm at about 3/4 extension. I'm trying atomik rockers now, they still hit just a little and I ground a bit off the arm so it just clears. I'm using locknuts and a washer on the bottom side "capturing" the ball end and drilled out the threads in the rocker. If I had used a button head screw from the bottom threaded into the rocker, it would have cleared, but I didn't want to rely on the threads in the rocker as if the screw snaps off, then I'm stuck. in hind sight, I could have used a longer button head screw so the threads stuck out the top of the rocker, then I could have used that to remove it if the screw snapped off.

    I'm just a basher and I try to set up my revos so they absorb a landing relatively well, but allow it to bottom out on the chassis, then recover quickly. I used to run heavier oil, but that caused the shock pistons to snap and wore rod ends/shock ends out very quickly. Now I just live with the fact that they bottom out pretty hard and avoid landing on pavement/concrete off a big jump.
    Iím confused, how are you running the silver, blue and purple springs without the LT rockers, if those springs, according my manual, are the longer 120mm springs? For the shorter(regular stock) rockers, it says to use the shorter 90mm yellow, white, orange, green, gold, tan and black springs?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    13,878
    You can run the LT springs with the P1, P2, P3 rockers.
    The Super Derecho

  7. #7
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    141
    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    You can run the LT springs with the P1, P2, P3 rockers.
    I guess I donít know what the P1, P2 and P3 rockers are. What are the stock rockers called that I pulled off my truck years ago when I put the long travel ones on?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Never mind, I just looked on the parts finder of the Traxxas website and saw that thereís other rocker kits between the stock ones that come on it, and the long-travel kit that comes with the truck, that I had put on.

    But now that brings me to another question, whatís the difference, and why would I want to use the other rockers from the ones that came with it, not counting the LT ones?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    And Iím assuming those stock, pre-installed rockers are not the P1ís, P2ís or P3ís, are they? Iím asking because according to the manual, it says the LT springs that come with the truck in the LT kit canít be used with the stock rockers, and it says none of the available array of colors of 90mm springs can be used with the LT kit......


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Double G; 04-01-2020 at 06:06 PM. Reason: merge

  8. #8
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    62
    If you have a long chassis 3.3 Revo, you truck came with P2 rockers out of the box (correct me if i'm wrong). Rocker ID is written on the rocker itself. Different rockers allows you to tune for a different conditions, changing travel and shock progressiveness. P2 is best balance a.d you can use any springs on it, depens on the terrain conditions. Springs sizes are very close to each other.

    A stiffer spring will make the truck more reactive as it tends to roll less but you will lose lot of grip. That's why i mounted stiffer springs on my build. On high grip turf stiffer springs + sway bars allow the truck to react much faster to the throttle and steering inputs while being less prone to roll over.

    On lower grip surfaces you want the truck to roll more so it doesn't lose grip.

    Every spring change must be suited with the correct oil viscosity. Thicker fluid slows shock action and viceversa. Stock springs are fine for 30wt shock oil, but the shock package is too soft for pretty much every terrain condition.

  9. #9
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    2,835
    The P# defines the progressive nature of the suspension. As it articulates, it becomes stiffer. P1 is the least progressive, p3 is the most. The rockers aren't flat, but the mounting point of the shock end and pushrod end on the rocker in relation to the pivot change the progression, so each rocker is a bit different. I think LT's and P1's are linear.

    The 2.5R revo came with P1's from the factory, pretty sure the summit has LT's, the rest have P2's (including ERBEv1 and v2). They each require different pushrod lengths as well, or spacers.

    From my ERBEv1 manual:
    Rockers (Progressive Rate/ Suspension Travel)
    One of the most exciting aspects of E-Revoís suspension is the inboard
    shock (damper) arrangement that uses pivoting rockers to translate
    vertical wheel travel into linear shock motion. The rockers can be changed
    to increase or decrease the maximum wheel travel and also to change the
    progressive rate of the suspension.
    The progressive rate determines how much the force at the wheel
    produced by the springs being compressed (wheel force) will vary with
    suspension travel (or vertical travel of the wheel). On a progressive
    suspension arrangement, the wheel force will increase at a faster and
    faster rate as the suspension is compressed. It feels as though the shock
    spring gets progressively stiffer the more you compress the suspension.
    On a linear suspension arrangement, the wheel force increases linearly as
    the suspension is compressed. The spring does not feel any stiffer, even
    when the suspension is fully compressed. This provides a very ďplushĒ
    feeling suspension with seemingly bottomless suspension travel.

    Rocker Arm Total Travel Progressive Rate
    Progressive 1 90mm - (60mm up / 30mm down) Low
    Progressive 2 90mm - (60mm up / 30mm down) Medium
    Progressive 3 90mm - (60mm up / 30mm down) High
    Long Travel 120mm - (80mm up / 40mm down) Low

    A total of four different rocker arm sets are available for E-Revo. All rocker
    arms except the Long Travel rocker arms will allow the wheel to travel a
    total of 90mm in the vertical direction. From the ride height position, the
    wheel will be able to travel 60mm in the upward direction (bump), and
    30mm in the downward direction (droop). The Long Travel rocker arm
    increases total travel to 120mm. The progressive rate can be increased or
    decreased by installing different rocker arm sets. The rockers are labeled
    Progressive 1 to Progressive 3. Progressive 1 rockers will provide a low
    progressive rate that maintains consistent damping force across through
    the whole range of suspension travel. These are best for extremely rough
    terrain that requires maximum suspension articulation. Progressive 3
    rockers use high progressive rate that will improve high-speed cornering
    on smooth surfaces by providing a firmer feel. Body roll, brake dive
    and rear squat will also be reduced. Always change all four rockers as a
    complete set. Do not mix rates and travel.
    Using rockers with lower progressive rate may require the use of stiffer
    springs to maintain proper spring pre-load and ride height. The spring
    pre-load adjuster on each shock is designed for minor adjustments. If the
    adjuster needs to be turned all the way down (compressing the spring) in
    order to maintain proper ride height, then the next stiffer spring should
    be used.
    The chart below demonstrate the effect of the various rocker arms on
    wheel force as the suspension is compressed. On the progressive rate,
    wheel force is light at first and increases as the suspension is compressed.
    Last edited by olds97_lss; 04-01-2020 at 04:49 PM.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  10. #10
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    141
    Quote Originally Posted by lexuabest View Post
    If you have a long chassis 3.3 Revo, you truck came with P2 rockers out of the box (correct me if i'm wrong). Rocker ID is written on the rocker itself. Different rockers allows you to tune for a different conditions, changing travel and shock progressiveness. P2 is best balance a.d you can use any springs on it, depens on the terrain conditions. Springs sizes are very close to each other.

    A stiffer spring will make the truck more reactive as it tends to roll less but you will lose lot of grip. That's why i mounted stiffer springs on my build. On high grip turf stiffer springs + sway bars allow the truck to react much faster to the throttle and steering inputs while being less prone to roll over.

    On lower grip surfaces you want the truck to roll more so it doesn't lose grip.

    Every spring change must be suited with the correct oil viscosity. Thicker fluid slows shock action and viceversa. Stock springs are fine for 30wt shock oil, but the shock package is too soft for pretty much every terrain condition.
    I donít know if mine is the ďlong-chassisĒ or not, didnít know there was other types but after looking at a downloaded pdf of my manual for the original 5309 revo 3.3- the one with the older radio, plain blue exhaust pipe and foot long antenna on the truck and 3 foot antenna on the radio, and the non high-flow air filter, page 43 says I have the P2ís installed.....

    But what are you saying, that we can use the included 120mm springs intended for the LT system on the P2 rickers, just not the other way around? In other words, the book says the 90mm springs arenít recommended for use with the LT kit- only the silver, pink, blue and purple springs is all that can be used with the long-travel kit?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. #11
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    2,835
    They are too soft and the LT rockers are longer, so stiffer springs are needed just to make the truck function properly with LT's.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  12. #12
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    141
    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    They are too soft and the LT rockers are longer, so stiffer springs are needed just to make the truck function properly with LT's.
    Huh? I was asking that other guy how he runs the 120mm springs with the whatever P rockers he uses. Basically asking if itís just the longer springs having to be used with the LT rockers, and if whatever spring- 90mm or 120mm, can be used with all the other rockers.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  13. #13
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    62
    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    I don’t know if mine is the “long-chassis” or not, didn’t know there was other types but after looking at a downloaded pdf of my manual for the original 5309 revo 3.3- the one with the older radio, plain blue exhaust pipe and foot long antenna on the truck and 3 foot antenna on the radio, and the non high-flow air filter, page 43 says I have the P2’s installed.....

    But what are you saying, that we can use the included 120mm springs intended for the LT system on the P2 rickers, just not the other way around? In other words, the book says the 90mm springs aren’t recommended for use with the LT kit- only the silver, pink, blue and purple springs is all that can be used with the long-travel kit?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    If your truck came with P2 rockers then you got the long chassis revo, blue pipe and non high -flow air filter as mine.

    The springs designed por P# rockers would be too soft for the LT rockers. I've never tried LT rockets but Traxxas suggest not to use P# designed springs. Every spring is the same lenght, 90mm or 120mm does not mean that the springs are longer, just what type of suspension they fit better.

    As said, this is only a guide for a novice so you get an overall well performing truck without being a headache for you. Suspension tuning is first step you should learn. Spring hardness and oil viscosity must suit the terrain you are running on and your driving style.

  14. #14
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    141
    Quote Originally Posted by lexuabest View Post
    If your truck came with P2 rockers then you got the long chassis revo, blue pipe and non high -flow air filter as mine.

    The springs designed por P# rockers would be too soft for the LT rockers. I've never tried LT rockets but Traxxas suggest not to use P# designed springs. Every spring is the same lenght, 90mm or 120mm does not mean that the springs are longer, just what type of suspension they fit better.

    As said, this is only a guide for a novice so you get an overall well performing truck without being a headache for you. Suspension tuning is first step you should learn. Spring hardness and oil viscosity must suit the terrain you are running on and your driving style.
    Ok so, Iím not worried about what springs I can and canít use with the LT rockers- thatís already been established. Plus, those LT rockers are coming off my truck this weekend and Iím going back to the P2 progressive ones that came stock on my truck..... what I am curious about, is using the silver and blue springs- that are intended to be used with the LT kit, with the regular P2 rockers.....

    Once again, what the book says about using only the 120mm springs with the LT rockers, this only applies to the LT rockers, correct? I can still use any spring with any of the other rockers as long as they arenít the LT ones, correct? Not that Iím going to, Iím just asking.

    But for now, Iím going to go back to using the other two sets of springs that came on my truck and go up from there if need be. Although the Traxxas tech I talked to yesterday said I probably didnít need to, Iíll probably still be someday ordering either the gold or tan spring set for the rear of my Revo since I have the wing back there.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  15. #15
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    62
    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    Ok so, Iím not worried about what springs I can and canít use with the LT rockers- thatís already been established. Plus, those LT rockers are coming off my truck this weekend and Iím going back to the P2 progressive ones that came stock on my truck..... what I am curious about, is using the silver and blue springs- that are intended to be used with the LT kit, with the regular P2 rockers.....

    Once again, what the book says about using only the 120mm springs with the LT rockers, this only applies to the LT rockers, correct? I can still use any spring with any of the other rockers as long as they arenít the LT ones, correct? Not that Iím going to, Iím just asking.

    But for now, Iím going to go back to using the other two sets of springs that came on my truck and go up from there if need be. Although the Traxxas tech I talked to yesterday said I probably didnít need to, Iíll probably still be someday ordering either the gold or tan spring set for the rear of my Revo since I have the wing back there.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    There's no issue on running "90mm" springs with LT rockers, although that would be too soft. You can use any spring you want with any rocker you want.

    Keep in mind that with a harder spring would be much difficult to reach a lower ride height. I can reach arms level ride height placing the battery on the steering servo place (aka moving weight to the front) with my current black front springs. Anything harder would require to place additional weight on the front. Plus i don't like using outer hole on the turnbuckle because it limits shock stroke.

    For the surface you will be running on, in my opinion, Gold and Tan springs combined with 50wt shock oil will fit you best. Team associated oils are best i've tested. these 3 things do not cost that much, give em a try!

  16. #16
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    141
    Quote Originally Posted by lexuabest View Post
    There's no issue on running "90mm" springs with LT rockers, although that would be too soft. You can use any spring you want with any rocker you want.
    Ok so, that would explain why the recommended springs for the LT kit are the silver, pink, blue and purple because of their spring rates. The heaviest 90mm spring is the black one at 25.1 pounds but the lightest 120mm spring is 3 pounds heavier than that at 28 pounds.....

    Keep in mind that with a harder spring would be much difficult to reach a lower ride height. I can reach arms level ride height placing the battery on the steering servo place (aka moving weight to the front) with my current black front springs. Anything harder would require to place additional weight on the front. Plus i don't like using outer hole on the turnbuckle because it limits shock stroke.
    Thatís some heavy springs you use. Lol. Why do you use that heavy of springs?

    And what do you mean about using the outer hole on the turnbuckle?

    For the surface you will be running on, in my opinion, Gold and Tan springs combined with 50wt shock oil will fit you best. Team associated oils are best i've tested. these 3 things do not cost that much, give em a try!
    Youíre right, itís inexpensive but are you saying using the gold springs on the front, and the tan springs on the back, with heavier shock oil? What about that whole 20% difference thing between spring stiffness from front to rear?

    But why do you suggest that stiff of springs? Iím just curious. For now, it probably will be just mostly asphalt I may be driving on, a dirt road or two and maybe some piles of dirt, just never know.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  17. #17
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    62
    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post

    That’s some heavy springs you use. Lol. Why do you use that heavy of springs?
    Quote Originally Posted by lexuabest View Post

    A stiffer spring will make the truck more reactive as it tends to roll less but you will lose lot of grip. That's why i mounted stiffer springs on my build. On high grip turf stiffer springs + sway bars allow the truck to react much faster to the throttle and steering inputs while being less prone to roll over.

    On lower grip surfaces you want the truck to roll more so it doesn't lose grip.

    Every spring change must be suited with the correct oil viscosity. Thicker fluid slows shock action and viceversa. Stock springs are fine for 30wt shock oil, but the shock package is too soft for pretty much every terrain condition.
    That's all explained on the post above.

    And what do you mean about using the outer hole on the turnbuckle?
    Pushrod location on the arm.

    You’re right, it’s inexpensive but are you saying using the gold springs on the front, and the tan springs on the back, with heavier shock oil? What about that whole 20% difference thing between spring stiffness from front to rear?
    Normally you run heavier spring on the front to avoid front end diving, so the car is much easier to drive and has a better response. This truck has that much weight on the rear that requires 20% harder spring on the rear to be compensated.

  18. #18
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    141
    Quote Originally Posted by lexuabest View Post
    That's all explained on the post above.
    I get it, you want a heavier spring-setup for the surfaces you race on, but Iím just curious why you feel you need that heavy of a spring- in other words, even the gold or tan springs are too soft??

    I donít need a re-explanation on why you use some really stiff springs, Iím just curious why you use such a stiff spring combination.

    What tires do you run? Iím sure that probably makes a difference too and I guess I might oughta share that my stock Talon tires might only get used while on the street or gravel roads, depending on how well the hold up being that they are the original tires that are as old as the truck, and the new Canyon AT 3.8 tires I bought that will probably only get used like, if I happen to find a track to run on around here, or if I can find some hills and such to climb, where I would need the increased traction.

    Pushrod location on the arm.
    Oh, youíre talking about your ride height setting via the three holes on the bottom A-arms.... gotcha.



    Normally you run heavier spring on the front to avoid front end diving, so the car is much easier to drive and has a better response. This truck has that much weight on the rear that requires 20% harder spring on the rear to be compensated.
    I get it but, isnít the heaviest black spring a little excessive for the front? Thatís 8.5 pounds over the stock white spring that it comes with. And when you said you use the gray spring in the rear, are you talking about the silver one? There is no gray one.

    But when you suggested the gold and the tan springs- which Iíd have to buy because I donít have them, youíre talking using the gold springs on the front, and the tan ones on the back, correct? Is that the proper 20% difference between the front and the back because if I use the gold springs up front and the tan ones in the back, thatís only a difference of just a skosh over 1 and a half pounds heavier than the front....

    And when Traxxas recommends 20 percent, what exactly do they mean by that, that the back has to be 20 percent stiffer than the front, no matter what springs you have up front? If it is then that would make sense if the truck came with a white spring set up front and green set in the back because 16.6 pounds plus 20% is 19.92 pounds, hence the green 20 pound spring set in the back; and why the LT kit comes with the silver and the blue springs, with the blue springs being 20% stiffer than the silver ones being 28 pounds, and the blue ones being 33.7 pounds(28 plus 20% being 33.6 pounds). Which means that if I did my math correctly, thatís only 8% more stiffness in the back of I went with the gold springs on the front and the tan ones in the rear.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  19. #19
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    62
    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    I get it, you want a heavier spring-setup for the surfaces you race on, but I’m just curious why you feel you need that heavy of a spring- in other words, even the gold or tan springs are too soft??

    I don’t need a re-explanation on why you use some really stiff springs, I’m just curious why you use such a stiff spring combination.
    First of all, I took a Steve Slayden setup sheet for the revo. Slayden used to run on dirt, which is a low grip surface. He used Gold and Tan springs with 50wt oil. As the surface grip increases, which is the case for my local astroturf/artificial grass surface you need to stiffen the shock package. My experience from 2wd racing tells me that the starting point for my track would be black front and silver rears with thicker oil. I may go a step down or up on springs after some testing, it really depends on the track

    What tires do you run? I’m sure that probably makes a difference too and I guess I might oughta share that my stock Talon tires might only get used while on the street or gravel roads, depending on how well the hold up being that they are the original tires that are as old as the truck, and the new Canyon AT 3.8 tires I bought that will probably only get used like, if I happen to find a track to run on around here, or if I can find some hills and such to climb, where I would need the increased traction.
    My tires are Fastrax twister T tires, 1/8th scale truggy racing tires. Schumacher spirals were just too expensive for a first testing attempt. Comparing racing tires with bashing tires is like comparing apples to oranges.

    I get it but, isn’t the heaviest black spring a little excessive for the front? That’s 8.5 pounds over the stock white spring that it comes with. And when you said you use the gray spring in the rear, are you talking about the silver one? There is no gray one.

    But when you suggested the gold and the tan springs- which I’d have to buy because I don’t have them, you’re talking using the gold springs on the front, and the tan ones on the back, correct? Is that the proper 20% difference between the front and the back because if I use the gold springs up front and the tan ones in the back, that’s only a difference of just a skosh over 1 and a half pounds heavier than the front....

    And when Traxxas recommends 20 percent, what exactly do they mean by that, that the back has to be 20 percent stiffer than the front, no matter what springs you have up front? If it is then that would make sense if the truck came with a white spring set up front and green set in the back because 16.6 pounds plus 20% is 19.92 pounds, hence the green 20 pound spring set in the back; and why the LT kit comes with the silver and the blue springs, with the blue springs being 20% stiffer than the silver ones being 28 pounds, and the blue ones being 33.7 pounds(28 plus 20% being 33.6 pounds). Which means that if I did my math correctly, that’s only 8% more stiffness in the back of I went with the gold springs on the front and the tan ones in the rear.
    As said, my current Black and silver springs may be too hard for the surface or may not. Only heavy testing would tell. Forget about spring rating, imagine the ratings as steps. Tans are a step harder than golds, blacks are a step harder than silvers. Just put a step harder spring on the rear. golds/tans should have been the stock springs on this truck, stock whites/greens are extremely soft that if you break hard on pavement the truck ends up upside down.
    Last edited by lexuabest; 04-02-2020 at 09:33 AM.

  20. #20
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    141

    Bunch of suspension questions for Revo 3.3...

    Quote Originally Posted by lexuabest View Post
    First of all, I took a Steve Slayden setup sheet for the revo. Slayden used to run on dirt, which is a low grip surface. He used Gold and Tan springs with 50wt oil. As the surface grip increases, which is the case for my local astroturf/artificial grass surface you need to stiffen the shock package. My experience from 2wd racing tells me that the starting point for my track would be black front and silver rears with thicker oil. I may go a step down or up on springs after some testing, it really depends on the track.


    My tires are Fastrax twister T tires, 1/8th scale truggy racing tires. Schumacher spirals were just too expensive for a first testing attempt. Comparing racing tires with bashing tires is like comparing apples to oranges.


    As said, my current Black and silver springs may be too hard for the surface or may not. Only heavy testing would tell. Forget about spring rating, imagine the ratings as steps. Tans are a step harder than golds, blacks are a step harder than silvers. Just put a step harder spring on the rear. golds/tans should have been the stock springs on this truck, stock whites/greens are extremely soft that if you break hard on pavement the truck ends up upside down.
    In reference to the first paragraph, that sounds like that would apply to racing, though. Would this spring package you recommend still apply to regular driving, with tires in the same basic category as the Talons that come stock on the truck?

    But yeah, itís been over ten years since I ran my truck in the complete stock form with the springs that came on it along with the stock P2 rockers that came on it as well and I canít really recall if I had problems like that or not because if memory serves me correctly, I had only had the truck for probably no more than a couple months before I saw it a wise idea to put the stiffer springs on that it came with and the long-travel rockers. And even though I said before that I had a little bit of bottoming out, I really cannot recall my true reason for putting the LT kit on. For as far as I know since at the time I was extremely new to this caliber of RCíing, I probably just did it for more ground clearance, I donít know. But, as I said before, the truck seemed to have driven like crap afterwards but I never really blamed the LT kit, I just blamed myself because of extreme lack of experience at the time.

    But I dunno, since I havenít bought anymore springs, if the green and white springs are too soft for the P2 rockers, would it be wise to keep using the silver and blue springs with the P2 rockers, or just put the green and white springs back on until I can get some stiffer ones that arenít quite as stiff as the ones intended for the stock LT setup?

    If itís a no on the blue and silver springs, I may just run the green and white springs for now with that heavier shock oil, until i can get the other ones but drop down to the orange spring or the green spring in the front just to maintain a little bit of that 20% difference that Traxxas recommends. I dunno. All I can do is test, right?...lol. But either way, even if I go up to the tan and gold, or orange or green and gold, Iím probably better off to upgrade to the 50w shock oil? Iíve only changed the shock oil once but I just replaced with more 30w and left the stock #1 pistons in the front and the #2 pistons in the rear.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by corneileous; 04-02-2020 at 10:14 AM.

  21. #21
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    62
    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    In reference to the first paragraph, that sounds like that would apply to racing, though. Would this spring package you recommend still apply to regular driving, with tires in the same basic category as the Talons that come stock on the truck?
    The first step dialing the car in for a surface is the choice of a correct tire pattern. Talons and other tires that came stock with the revos are all terrain tires. They don't work best anywhere but work good everywhere. For bashing are best i think. Then, you go with the suspension setup. Start with slayden shock setup.

    This is like PC gaming. A racing/gaming rig will always be much better than any other build. Better handling and response.

    But I dunno, since I haven’t bought anymore springs, if the green and white springs are too soft for the P2 rockers, would it be wise to keep using the silver and blue springs with the P2 rockers, or just put the green and white springs back on until I can get some stiffer ones that aren’t quite as stiff as the ones intended for the stock LT setup?
    You can use LT springs that came in the kit with a heavier shock oil but as soon as you go to a lower grip surface the truck will drive like crap. Don't use stock springs with 50wt shock oil, that would be too thick for those springs. Run in as it came stock until you get a harder springs and shock oil.
    Check this out: https://es.scribd.com/document/54548...ce-Setup-Guide

  22. #22
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    141
    Quote Originally Posted by lexuabest View Post
    The first step dialing the car in for a surface is the choice of a correct tire pattern. Talons and other tires that came stock with the revos are all terrain tires. They don't work best anywhere but work good everywhere. For bashing are best i think. Then, you go with the suspension setup. Start with slayden shock setup.

    This is like PC gaming. A racing/gaming rig will always be much better than any other build. Better handling and response.



    You can use LT springs that came in the kit with a heavier shock oil but as soon as you go to a lower grip surface the truck will drive like crap. Don't use stock springs with 50wt shock oil, that would be too thick for those springs. Run in as it came stock until you get a harder springs and shock oil.
    Check this out: https://es.scribd.com/document/54548...ce-Setup-Guide
    Thanks for that link. But when he talks about his base choice of springs being the orange in front, gold in the rear, or when he talks about Revos being close to stock weight and recommends the greens up front and the tans in the rear, do I do this all with the stock 30w shock oil?

    I think for now Iím just gonna run the green and white springs but Iím thinking about making another order to Traxxas for some orange, gold and tan springs to play around with a bit but donít know if I need the 50w oil to go in my shocks when I do that.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  23. #23
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    141
    Well, I went ahead and ordered those orange, gold and tan springs to try out, along with some 50w shock oil. This weekend Iíll just play around with the green and white ones. Thanks everyone for your help.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  24. #24
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    62
    I haven't got the setup sheet here right now, but slayden published a starting setup for the revo. He used gold/tan springs with 50wt.

  25. #25
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    141
    Quote Originally Posted by lexuabest View Post
    I haven't got the setup sheet here right now, but slayden published a starting setup for the revo. He used gold/tan springs with 50wt.
    This one?? On that one there, he uses orange in the front and gold in the rear....

    But it might be a while before I try them springs. I finally ran my revo yesterday after putting the green/white springs on and the P2 rockers back on which made the truck run way better than it has. I wasn’t bashing over anything really rough since I don’t have anything like that around the house but I’m really starting to wonder why I put those long travel rockers on years ago.

    Traxxas finally got around to mailing my order I made a week ago today which I’m glad my truck battery didn’t appear to be ruined because my new batteries is in that box...lol. It ran the truck through a tank of fuel so maybe it’s good for a spare.

    It might be next weekend when I get my new RPM A-arms on though. The little pivot ball dust boots are rotted out as well so I have to get new ones of them before I do that. I might go ahead and put new dust boots on the axle shafts if I can find/figure out anything that’ll keep the things from dry rotting out. Y’all got any suggestions?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Double G; 04-05-2020 at 12:26 PM. Reason: language

  26. #26
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    62
    https://traxxas.com/sites/default/fi...up-slayden.pdf (use upper bumpsteer)
    This is the one i were talking about

  27. #27
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    141
    Anybody?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  28. #28
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Dekalb, IL
    Posts
    2,835
    I usually peal them off and throw them away as they are a nuisance to deal with and usually cause binding when turning anyway.
    Expert rigging at it's best!

  29. #29
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    141
    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    I usually peal them off and throw them away as they are a nuisance to deal with and usually cause binding when turning anyway.
    Thatís kinda what I figured. I went ahead and peeled the rest of mine off as well. I just wish there was something I could do to keep the ball joint boots on the axle carriers from routing out because arenít those just a little bit more important than the axle boots?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  30. #30
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    13,878
    Spray them with a little bit if silicone?
    The Super Derecho

  31. #31
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    141
    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    Spray them with a little bit if silicone?
    Does that work?? Have you done this to yours?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  32. #32
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    141
    Got my RPM front and true-track A-arms on today. Not sure if it was a good idea or not, but since I had everything tore apart, I decided to move the rear upper A-arms from the top pivot holes to the bottom. Also decided to go with the green springs up front, tan in the rear with 50w shock oil, left the pistons alone. Truck seems to handle a lot better, even with them taller softer tires.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  33. #33
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    62
    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    Got my RPM front and true-track A-arms on today. Not sure if it was a good idea or not, but since I had everything tore apart, I decided to move the rear upper A-arms from the top pivot holes to the bottom. Also decided to go with the green springs up front, tan in the rear with 50w shock oil, left the pistons alone. Truck seems to handle a lot better, even with them taller softer tires.
    Great! Any vids?

  34. #34
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    141
    Quote Originally Posted by lexuabest View Post
    Great! Any vids?
    Naw, I didnít take any vids. Besides, thereís not really a whole lotta exciting footage to take out here in front of my house. lol.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  35. #35
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    62
    hahaha show us your driving skills!! :P

  36. #36
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    13,878
    Quote Originally Posted by corneileous View Post
    Does that work?? Have you done this to yours?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I have done it to mine. Not religiously though as it attracts dust and dirt.
    The Super Derecho

  37. #37
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    141
    Quote Originally Posted by lexuabest View Post
    hahaha show us your driving skills!! :P
    Iím still pretty much an amateur but at least Iím past beginner level....lol. Itís a good thing I have pretty good mechanical skills because I enjoy working on it too.

    But Iím gonna try to take it out this weekend somewhere to find some dirt and real terrain to dial it in more.

    Thursday, my new 17mm axle hubs and splined hex wheel wrench will be in so I can finally test out my Duratrax six-pack tires. The Canyon MTís are nice- first pic; got lots of grip and even have that knobby tire hum to them but they are extremely soft so Iím thinkin thoseíll be more for really rough bashing, kinda like in a crude, rudimentary way, they should be like running the smaller Talons with the long-travel kit, without actually having to put on that LT kit which, to my understanding, is what that kit was made for. Theyíre much taller- like, 7.1 inches so right then and there alone, I get an extra inch of ground clearance and still get to run the shock pushrods in the same middle hole on the lower A-arms.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  38. #38
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    141
    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    I have done it to mine. Not religiously though as it attracts dust and dirt.
    Well, I dunno. I ordered a new kit that came with all them new pivot ball dust boots for the ends of my new A-arms so I guess I may put them on, or I may not, I dunno. Too bad Traxxas canít come up with a new updated material for both the axle boots and A-arm boots that hold up better. I know my truck sat for quite ace time but still, itís not like it was stored in a cardboard box in a cheap little shed, it was stored on a top shelf in my bedroom which was both temperature and humidity controlled and they still rotted out. And yes, I know my truck is over ten years old but, I replaced both my axle boots and pivot ball boots about 7 years ago and only ran barely a quart of fuel through it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  39. #39
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    141
    Just a quick revision of the thread but Iím curious about something I noticed while looking at the manual for the updated Revo 3.3- the 53097-3; my ten year old Revo is just the 5309 but uh, how come they decided to up the front springs to the orange ones stock, from the white ones that came stock on my truck? My manual states thereís sposed to be a 20% increase in stiffness in the back over the front so what gives?

    Looking at the new manual on the page where they talk about all the available spying colors, it even states over on the left side of the page it now says only 10% stiffness in the back over the front......

    Just a quick refresher, I moved the green springs to the front, and put the new tan springs I bought in the back, which is roughly 20% stiffer than the front (green) springs. If I was to go only ten percent, then the gold springs is what I should have in the back with the green ones up front.

    The truck seems to be running really good with the set up that it has with the green springs up front tan springs in the back with the 50 weight shock oil. The green springs seems to be a really nice rate for upfront because the front of the truck does not nosedive near as much as it did before with the white springs when you hit the brakes but it seems like the back of the car still wants to squat quite a bit and it seems like my spring tensioners have to be ran up quite a bit just to make the A-arms sit level when itís just sitting there. Should I go up to the black springs in the back? That would put my spring stiffness increase over 20% from the front though if I did that.

    Thoughts? If I went off the new manualís recommendation, I could stay at 10% and leave the tan springs in the back and go up to the gold springs in the front. If I went off the 20% formula like my manual states, even the black springs wouldnít be heavy enough because at 20%, Iíd need like a 26 pound spring.

    Also, when I ran both of those larger sets of tires I have, I donít think I was really pleased at how the truck ran by having the upper a arms on the back moved down to the bottom holes. With the smaller tires, would it help if I moved the upper a arms back down to the bottom holes on the truck? Especially if I go up to the gold spring in the front and either stay at the tan spring in the back or go up to the black spring?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  40. #40
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    13,878
    I get exactly what you are asking and I would be asking them too. Reading through my 5308 manual it does not say that the rear should be 20% stiffer than the front; it states the rears are about 20% stiffer. And I’ve sat and researched as I don’t want to waste my money on a whole bunch of springs or weights of oil but came to the conclusion that I should play around with the various settings and combos and stick with what performance pleases me.
    The Super Derecho

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •