Results 1 to 30 of 30
  1. #1
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Athens, Greece
    Posts
    699

    COVID19 e-revo v1.0 maintenance

    Hey all. Long time no see. Haven't done anything in 4-5 years now, the e-revo is among the very few R/C I didn't sell. Decided to tear it apart with the daughter to pass some time, and why not add some stuff!

    Any ancient people around?

    A few words on my erevo, it has tons of upgrades and modifications... not worth selling and getting the v2.0, its practically as strong. Losi full driveline on integy aluminum modded bulkheads, motor-esc relocation to fit single 6S batteries (shared with my heli), 100 euros servo, rpm arms, many more. Anyway.

    washing every part:




    these brought up memories... countless hours to fit the diffs. btw these titanium screws for the rockers, best thing.




    few days later:








    a 3s lipo is all that is left from past glory. i used to have 6x 6s lipos, all cells died gradually since 2013.

    I decided to add 3 8-ledpixel bars to it, 2 in front 1 in back, and throw an arduino there. I got reading from all 5 channels and do stuff. controller is the 2-channel old one, but what do you know the contacts inside are there for 5-channels:




    and 360 arduino code lines after, i created 7 light scenarios of 2 levels general brightness. i can also flash on 80% throttle or more, or orange flash when turning etc... its impressive in the dark, those bars are bright:





    thats all for now. dont want to make it dirty yet, i ll wait for the kid to grow up a bit more

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Posts
    339
    Looks good all cleaned up! Lights are pretty nice too. Whose lights are they?

    I would have loved to do some sort of arduino control for my snowblower on the TRX-4, but I have not taught myself coding on an arduino yet! I am itchy to try it.

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    N Dakota USA
    Posts
    777
    That is an impressive build. Those metal bulkhead/ diff housing look stout .

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Athens, Greece
    Posts
    699
    the lights are adafruit neopixels, you can control each led individually, pretty neat:




    The rear one fitted nicely with minimal filing:




    some more pics from cleaner build. motor mounted on the left side, to allow for single battery. Chassis needed modifications as well, but not crucial to its sturdiness. 2 fans at 24V directly from the battery, and also notice the double motor mount (blue one) for flex decrease:




    I designed and 3dprinted an esc mount:




    The 10A esc bec, necessary for 6.5V to the servo and overall voltage stability with the leds, which are power hungry as well:




    Single servo steering, with the awesome Hitec HS-7955TG:




    Some intense steering with max leds brightness caused voltage dips, this big capacitor near the RX fixed the issue completely. The BEC capacitor was either not big enough, or too far away. I havent finished soldering yet, just verified operation:




    The RX sits on a nice carbon part:




    The RPM axle carriers with oversized bearings inner ant outer to fit losi axles. Unfortunately there was not an exact bearing outer dimension at the time, so i added a file with 3 screws to hold it in place:




    HPI hexes:




    and a random compilation, you can skip the drifts and go to jumps it gets somewhat boring (to me at least):

    Last edited by fuzion; 04-17-2020 at 02:32 AM.

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Athens, Greece
    Posts
    699
    Previously the lights were in the body, also controlled by the TX, but it was a bit messy (you can see them in the above video). How it looked:


  6. #6
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Athens, Greece
    Posts
    699
    added bec/rx and battery voltage indicators. another cell gone, 2s now on the lipo :P


  7. #7
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    88
    I think this E-Revo is fantastic, fuzion!

    While I recognize much of what you've done to this truck is out of necessity to keep it in one piece, the ingenuity involved is top notch. The electronics work you've done on it is excellent as well. I hadn't thought of using an Arduino as you have, and I have a pile of them lying about here, but the only E-Revoesque truck I have at the moment is a Gorillamaxx. I'll keep in mind what you've done, although I'm using a different radio, one where supply for some of the associated components isn't very good presently. I wanted a switch for lights and whatnot, and ended up buying a 16 channel switch as the 4 channel model just isn't available anywhere. 16 channel switches, or at least that model, aren't cheap.

    Nonetheless, I'll have to check out using an Arduino for that purpose. I've dealt with SBCs way more than Arduino microcontrollers, primarily Beaglebone Black. Putting one of those on a truck for switching wouldn't be a good choice. Kinda like driving tacks with a sledgehammer. I'll have to look at various Arduinio models I have, which are primarily 2560s as I recall to see how many inputs are available. I have a lot of stuff I want to manage aside from just lights. While that 16 channel switch I bought is more than I need, 4 channels isn't really enough, either, although I could have managed with that I suppose.

    Thanks for the updates on the maintenance and miscellaneous upgrades.

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Athens, Greece
    Posts
    699
    hey devzero (and ben - dakratfink) thanks for the good words.

    it involved a lot of work indeed, making the erevo handle 6s properly back in the day was a challenge, and many here were more than genuine themselves. i copied a lot of stuff. the losi driveline is the most important, what i did above the average modder was fit the diffs in the integy bulkheads, as the stock bulkheads were too thin after filing. Now this is extremely strong, look for example what breaks after many runs (you might noticed it in the video):



    Differentials - bearings are very strong, even with the heaviest tire out there probably, the big joes.

    i love this electronics work as well. arduino works like a dream here, reads the RX pulse channels very easily. There are problems of course, like when running the intense rainbow cycle on leds and try to read input to change the scenario... but ok.

    I agree once you start programming, 4-5 channels quickly become very few. i was lucky to have a TX that has the 3 channels integrated, but still channels 4-5 are working strangely, the inputs depend on each other in a strange logic (like when 5 is 1, 4 is inverted something like that)

    if you start experimenting with leds and arduino, mind the pulse height. some arduinos are 5V and others are 3.3. input from RX isnt an issue, but for output pulses i couldn't control these leds with a 3.3V arduino while powering the leds with 6.5V. i had a wemos D1 mini which was so small and nice, in the end i used the large original uno. I will buy a tiny version which works with 5V logic eventually.

    Today i balanced the wheels again using something like a plasteline paste that becomes rock-hard when combined, as i had issues with attaching nuts and other metal stuff there:


  9. #9
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Athens, Greece
    Posts
    699
    Continuing the works here, nothing much else to do at home...

    Designed and printed a spur gear cover. With this arrangement, the stock cover did not fit anyhow, i tried modding it but no luck. Did some preliminary test prints to check fitment, finalized design and good to go.












    Not bad not perfect.

    In other news, i attached a bluetooth comm module, with plans to send data on the phone. I will start with cell voltages, arduino has 6x 5V analog inputs, perfect for the job. I ordered an arduino mini as well to tidy things up a bit in there.
    *edit* seems like its not that straightforward, i forgot that 2-3-4-5-6 cells dont have 0 as reference and they are the sum of voltage till that cell...




    After talking to Traxxas chat for compatibility, i also ordered the erevo 2.0 green body (hard to find btw) and the TRX8614 clipless body posts. I dropped in the TRX8610 reinforcements also.








    And last but not least, a new battery. At a hefty price, i bought one of the best out there, as tested by MCSGUY in the big forum. I thanked him personally in a PM for his extensive tests, they truly are eye-opening. I dont think the rules will allow me to post it here, but its a 6S 75C (true 55C in tests!) "panther" model. The plain red-black 45C graphene is also among the best, true 45C. Who would have thought.

    Last edited by fuzion; 04-23-2020 at 04:48 AM.

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Athens, Greece
    Posts
    699
    well the BT info seems to work very easily for android:


  11. #11
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Athens, Greece
    Posts
    699

    Gyro implementation!

    As i had an arduino module for gyro and acceleration readings (MPU6050), I was thinking that i could -somehow- simulate the operation of stability/drift gyros for r/c cars, similar to Traxxas TSM.

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5RsWaQMIODc

    As i was googling it, because the math around steering servo signal adjustment with gyro rotation is complex, I came across a beautiful project of “TheDIYGuy999”, which pretty much does the same thing.

    https://github.com/TheDIYGuy999/MRSC_Adapter_3Pin_Servo

    I had a mega2560 cpu instead of his 328P, so with small code corrections I was able to do some tests, its going quite well i may say:




    I used to try to do this back in the day with an HK 401B helicopter tail gyro, but the traxxas receiver must be incompatible. I am so happy this works now, seems like i will have 2 arduinos on the revo finally, i prefer the stability function to be independent.

    In other news, taking the advice from the other thread, I ordered the fiberglass tape and E6000 glue to strengthen the new body, and mini arduinos/cables to tidy things up. Covid makes deliveries really longer though.

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Athens, Greece
    Posts
    699
    some updates

    All arduinos are here and programmed. Decided to get a pro mini 358P for the gyro and keep the 2560 mega mini for peripherals. Also managed to connect a different Bluetooth LE module to my iphone.

    Onto the placement of the boards and wiring. Too much cable management to do! Designed a base to go in the front above the shocks:




    fitment tests:






    Redesign and printed. Very nice result:






    I also got some antivibration gel tape from camera tests i did with the helicopter back then. I believe this will take some noise away from the accelerometer module:




    All boards together:




    And the final result:




    Who would have known that the daughters ironing toy board would be such a proper RC bench


  13. #13
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Athens, Greece
    Posts
    699
    On the phone terminal:






    Tape and glue have also arrived, waiting now for my shiny new body, and of course the battery.


  14. #14
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Athens, Greece
    Posts
    699
    The battery is here. Wow its pretty... Wrapped nicely, boxed like i bought a cellphone:















    The voltages arrived were dead on balanced, i noticed a slight difference in mOhm readings (going to ask MSCGUY about it), but I didn't do a full charge yet.





    I already soldered an EC5 connector on. It came with XT90, I have all my gear set up with EC5's. I will go for a test drive soon, the revo 2.0 body and posts are on the way from UK, probably gonna test drive once without it. I would like to see the gyro assist in action!

  15. #15
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Athens, Greece
    Posts
    699
    Battery is insanely strong. Even with big joes, if i full throttle i suspect it will flip 2 times in the air. Also heard some clicking in hard braking there heh ://


  16. #16
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Athens, Greece
    Posts
    699
    decided to wrap the battery in soft material and tape.

    is it ugly: YES
    will it be hotter: YES
    will it hold the beating: PROBABLY








  17. #17
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Athens, Greece
    Posts
    699
    goodies at the door




    this body is beautiful and certainly an upgrade to 1.0 body. stronger, fancier.




    fitting the body mounts was easy:








    BUT, when i tried to fit the body, unfortunately the underbody rollcage goes at the point where i made the nice electronics installation... it probably sits on the front brace of 2.0, a nice idea to absorb more impact from body top.




    no fit for now. I have to think of something else, relocate the electronics, as i will definitely not cut the body rollcage by any means.

    certainly looks very good wth big joes and large rear wing:




    too bad they never restocked the body reinforcement parts (TRX8610), i believe they will be useful, there are already paint cracks from the factory:




    i will probably order them, as there is still work to be done......




    let it rest for now along with his bigger pal


  18. #18
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Athens, Greece
    Posts
    699
    onto the body reinforcement.

    it looks nice without the rollcage as well:






    okay lets start taping. as expected, this doesnt get cut very easily, but its manageable. i knew this was going to require patience anyway






    cutting around holes wasn't particularly difficult




    fast-forward to glue application. gloves on, glue applied smoothly.




    one thing i kinda expected tho. the tape has a tension to go straight and its adhesive isnt so strong. the E6000 as its liquid at first, it makes the tape slide a bit, so it gets lifted at some curves:






    I cant put more than that as a first layer as it is fluid and doesnt stay where you apply it. I will let it dry overnight now, will be reporting tomorrow, and perhaps apply more glue. More great news, i found the TRX8610 reinforcements locally, they should be here in a couple of days.

  19. #19
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Athens, Greece
    Posts
    699

    Lets finish this body

    Okay so i had an idea, for the lifted tape areas. I poured some CA glue and squeezed the tape into the e6000, so that CA melts slightly the dry e6000 and they fuse together. It worked. I could add another tube of E6000 all around the inside, but i guess its ok.






    lets call this finished.




    TRX8610 was available as i said here, so i already have it. Mounting the rollcage back:












    This looks great and feels super strong. It did feel strong stock to begin with.


  20. #20
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Athens, Greece
    Posts
    699
    for whatever reason, i designed and printed a gopro camera mount for the body rear, and a relevant xiaomi yi case for my camera:










    and a sample:




    of course this didnt end well, revo flipped, camera case trashed will print a new one, definitely not for such a bumpy terrain.

    this revo 2.0 body is extremely strong, i smashed the revo many times (2 charges) nothing even remotely serious on the body.








    with this post i will end this "maintenance" series, there is nothing more to be done for now except charge and play. the drift assist works nicely on light gravel/wet surfaces, i noticed a difference in some slides that were uncontrollable without it. the battery monitoring on bluetooth works great, battery is super strong (and charged it back in 13 minutes on my car's battery at 18-20A on the powerlab8).

    thanks for watching everyone



  21. #21
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Athens, Greece
    Posts
    699
    Lets try something else for the camera. I trashed it too many times already, still working fortunately.


  22. #22
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Athens, Greece
    Posts
    699
    summer tests of the prototype onboard camera slide-in mount. The outer shell is independent from the camera to avoid shocks passing to the camera body. Took massive hits for 20 minutes, still needs some improvement, the camera bottom base cracked and i need to make a camera hold clip.














  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    San Gabriel, California
    Posts
    8,475
    Love the camera mount!

    Good job!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  24. #24
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    68
    Dude, what a radical build! Is the Arduino similar to a raspberry pi? Love the innovation.
    Slayer Pro, Slash VXL 4x4, Jato 3.3, Rustler 2.5

  25. #25
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Athens, Greece
    Posts
    699
    arduino is a simple microcontroller with io and slower serial comms. raspberry is more like a pc with some low level 0-1 i/o

    thanks for the comments

    a general update:

    - i dont use the drift assist after all. the effect is minimal where i go play, havent tried ice or something like it. and sometimes it stops steering and i have to turn off/on again. a bug probably.
    - the arduino 3d printed base has cracked probably from chassis flex
    - i dont like the big joes anymore, as 2 of them lost the inner taping and baloon weirdly on high speeds. too bad as it looks so much better on them
    - the badlands have become very thin on some points and started having holes. i bet i will buy the new belted ones soon
    - the front diff started jumping teeth on hard braking
    - diffs need heavier oil
    - the reinforced 2.0 body holds very well, although heavy
    - the battery kicks a....
    - all pivot balls are losing their position in the a arms on heavy crashes. the threads are beginning to wear too much. need to do something there soon.

    i love going back to the revo. i think i will try to begin designing-printing bulkheads to fit the losi diffs. the aluminum bulkheads hold well, but i d like it to be lighter. there were efforts by some here in the past, no final results ever.
    Last edited by fuzion; 08-16-2020 at 03:31 PM.

  26. #26
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    68
    Again nice ride. And I think that I am going to bite the bullet on the belted tires,also.
    Slayer Pro, Slash VXL 4x4, Jato 3.3, Rustler 2.5

  27. #27
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Athens, Greece
    Posts
    699
    i noticed that they arent really belted. they have glued a fiber tape of some sort on the inside. same deal with gorillatape i guess, i hope they have done good work in order for it not to detach in several months.



  28. #28
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Maryland, US
    Posts
    6
    Looking great! Love the arduino bits you've added. Care to elaborate more on your diff/drive-line setup? Diff carrier and housing is mostly what I'm interested in. Seems the plastic keeps failing first before anything on my carriers.

  29. #29
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Athens, Greece
    Posts
    699
    thanks. you can search tis forum for losi diff or losi driveline mods. you will find many threads with detalis, perhaps some of my own as well.

    briefly:

    - you buy losi lst differentials
    - buy losi wheel axles and cvds
    - buy 2 center cvds of proper length from other brands

    and then either:

    - file the plastic bulkheads to fit the losi diffs, nad axle carriers to fit the axles with larger bearings

    or (because plastic bulkheads become very thin):

    - buy integy aluminum bulkheads and file them to fit diffs ( i believe i am the only one to have done this)
    - buy rpm axle carriers and file to fit axles and larger bearings

    all other solutions like aluminum diff housing, other cvds plastic or metal, will fail frequently unless you play on 4s with mild acceleration/braking. my driveline has held very well and the bulkheads dont break, BUT the front ones bent upwards if you land hard on nose or crash a wall. but the beating that my revo can withstand is massive, also using big joes (which i dont recommend anyway - i prefer badlands or other similar weight tire)

    now hat the 2.0 is out, i strongly recommend buying that one or ideally a roller. the driveline is ready for 6s, perhaps equal to losi mod. the integy bulkheads cost a lot and its easy to make mistakes in the filing process. it also makes the revo heavier, but we discussed on another thread recently that the 2.0 is already heavier as well.

    i love the 1.0 platform and working on it, the purpose is passing time / having fun. modding is just that for me.

  30. #30
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Maryland, US
    Posts
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by fuzion View Post
    thanks. you can search tis forum for losi diff or losi driveline mods. you will find many threads with detalis, perhaps some of my own as well.

    briefly:

    - you buy losi lst differentials
    - buy losi wheel axles and cvds
    - buy 2 center cvds of proper length from other brands

    and then either:

    - file the plastic bulkheads to fit the losi diffs, nad axle carriers to fit the axles with larger bearings

    or (because plastic bulkheads become very thin):

    - buy integy aluminum bulkheads and file them to fit diffs ( i believe i am the only one to have done this)
    - buy rpm axle carriers and file to fit axles and larger bearings

    all other solutions like aluminum diff housing, other cvds plastic or metal, will fail frequently unless you play on 4s with mild acceleration/braking. my driveline has held very well and the bulkheads dont break, BUT the front ones bent upwards if you land hard on nose or crash a wall. but the beating that my revo can withstand is massive, also using big joes (which i dont recommend anyway - i prefer badlands or other similar weight tire)

    now hat the 2.0 is out, i strongly recommend buying that one or ideally a roller. the driveline is ready for 6s, perhaps equal to losi mod. the integy bulkheads cost a lot and its easy to make mistakes in the filing process. it also makes the revo heavier, but we discussed on another thread recently that the 2.0 is already heavier as well.

    i love the 1.0 platform and working on it, the purpose is passing time / having fun. modding is just that for me.
    Appreciate the information, I'll be sure to look around as well for more details. I considered getting the 2.0, but really I'm happy with my 1.0 as my electric basher for now (fund is tight after scoring NB48 2.0 kit .) My 1.0 started as a roller with a BLX185 package on the side and I've mostly spent time trying to get it to handle 6s properly. Biggest problems have been chassis' and the diffs. Not sure how seller was making the diffs last any time at all considering the seller even had a slipper eliminator on. I've been inspired to do more custom mods on the 1.0 from this thread so thank you again. Maybe I'll be posting here later on with some results.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •