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  1. #1
    RC Qualifier
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    Apr 2007
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    Long Island, NY
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    Hot Racing Dual Brake Installation Help For Jato

    So I dipped back into the Nitro world... Got a great deal on a barely used JATO. Fast forward I have upgraded much of it, Aluminum A-arms, Shocks, I repurposed a CVEC big block Exhaust pipe and have this thing humming 65 MPH with temps under 200 degrees... But stopping power was lacking.

    So I broke down and spent $43 for the Hot Racing SJT39DG Carbon Dual Steel Wave Brake Jt upgrade. Came today in the mail and couldn’t wait to install it and see what the hype was all about.

    Only knock on HR products is there’s never instructions and installation isn’t always so obvious, as was the case with this install. To no avail I searched the web looking for a video or written instructions. You got to be joking me!?! Exploded view was no help to me.....

    What was the trick to removing the cross section that held the brake cross bar in place???? If you look at the Exploded View it shows an e-clip holding it in place. Look at the Jato no e-clip, what am I missing? So I look for a grub screw; no grub screw. I look at the back to the cross bar, the front of the cross bar no clues to be had. I try to unscrew the whole axel? Doesn’t unscrew! Seriously!!! W-T_!!!!

    So I had to take matters into my own hands and hope for the best. I took out a mini adjustable wrench, and began to try to pry the crossbar off and finally eureka!!! I moved the the crossbar enough to see a small pin wedged into it the back of it. So I just kept prying until finally it popped off!!! Yay ME!!!

    Once you get pass that it’s all down hill from there. You simply insert the HR Aluminum Cross Bar over the shaft and hold in place with the new pin HR provides. Then sandwich the Carbon Fiber Calipers and Steel Discs and insert the bolts HR provides thru the holes in the calipers.
    Note: you need to have the round hole on top and the elongated hole on the bottom of the Calipers.

    Install the “Sandwich” by guiding the disc’s thru the aluminum crossbar while aligning the bolt into the top bolt hole. Tighten the top bolt until the first disc sits covering the pin. Then tighten the bottom bolt. It’s important not to over tighten the bolts as you want the disc to spin freely, but you want to make sure that the first disc covers the pin which holds the cross bar in place and prohibits the pin from falling out. Final step insert and screw the grub screw HR provides in the from of the aluminum cross bar. (I guess that helps apply pressure to on the holding pin.)

    Adjust bolts as needed to insure brakes close and open freely.

    That’s it, that’s what all the fuss was about!!! If you don’t know, now you know.....

    https://flic.kr/p/2iTZN2s

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Racing-...ss!11949!US!-1
    Last edited by REVO-KN-EVIL; 04-24-2020 at 09:44 PM.

  2. #2
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    68
    Nice report and explanation. Wish more threads were so informative.

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slush View Post
    Nice report and explanation. Wish more threads were so informative.
    Thank you Slush, there wasn’t one installation write up on such a popular upgrade. No videos no nothing. So I put this together for the next guy that is clueless to prying the plastic cross section off. Glad I could help.

  4. #4
    RC Champion
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    Dec 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by REVO-KN-EVIL View Post
    ...I put this together for the next guy that is clueless to prying the plastic cross section off...
    When I go to upgrade mine I would have been thinking the same thing. Thanks for the tip.

  5. #5
    RC Racer
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    Feb 2009
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    New York City, Virginia Beach
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    173
    Great Write up, might do this to my Jato... Gotta get the dust off
    Newbie

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Dec 2003
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    Dekalb, IL
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    3,794
    I made a 2 disk setup for mine, it was totally hack, but it helped a lot. Not sure what cross bar your talking about though. I had a spare brake disk from something and the X piece/hub it rode on. I drilled a couple small holes through it and the one on the truck to extend the hub for the second disk. Like I said... hack, but it held up for a very long time until I converted it to brushless.



    I think the spare brake disk I had and hub were from a losi xxx-nt I had many years ago.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  7. #7
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
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    1
    So I have mine basically converted to brushless still waiting on parts but can you even still have a disc brake with Brushless? I sub to you you tube before reading this comment just now. Was also curious if two speed is possible with electric conversion and does that even make sense if you are going for top speed runs. I plan on using a slipper eliminator as well but down the road as I test it out. Lastly this part mentioned above Jate dual wave brake would only apply to the stock nitro actual brake not the slipper "brake" as it's called. Been looking at that hot racing part for a bit and was confused. It has been 10 years since I touched a Nitro Jato now I have it converted to a Brushless setup. Running Tazer combo on 3s for now...like I said waiting on parts.

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Dec 2003
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    3,794
    I suppose you could still use the two speed, but you would want to find gears that are alloy as the plastic ones won't hold up well to brushless power. Even with the single speed conversion, I fried the gears before finishing the first pack. The gears in that are wider/stronger than the 2-speed.

    Pretty sure I used this in mine:
    https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=SJT1000SS;c=180

    I believe the diff gear is still plastic though, but since it's larger OD and wide, it seems to hold up. I haven't had my transmission apart in a very long time so I can't remember 100% what's in it. I know at least the gears I linked above.

    You could still use the stock brake setup if you set your esc up to not have brakes. I'm not sure how common that is, but you will still have the drag of the motor on it, so there will always be a bit of "drag brake" going on. Unless you stick with the 2 speed, then the transmission will free spin. You would really likely need to go with all steel gears in the transmission though. I don't know how the OWB would hold up in the trans to brushless torque in the long run.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

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