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  1. #1
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    TRX6 "No-Wire" Lighting Mod (Maybe TRX4 too)

    This thread will likely make the EEs that work at Traxxas puke... But, to be fair, this is a mod I had seen some years ago, and 3D printing has opened up the possibility to do it so that it functions well, and looks good.

    It is a minor thing, but that little wire that connects power to the LEDs on the body is very annoying. In truth, they are all annoying, but Traxxas upped the game here with that little-bitty connector. So, this mod basicly eliminates the need to touch that connector again. Simply put, you drop the body on and the electrical connections feeding the body's LED are made automatically, with nothing to plug in, just put the body clips in and you are good to go, lights and all.

    First, here is a video I shot, it explains what the mod does, and how. Below that is a write-up with lots of pictures...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5lpZVseARwI

    I designed and printed two parts, one to hold the contacts on the body, and another to hold the contacts on the back shock tower. I thought about using the front shock tower, but the electronics up there are busy enough.

    The chassis...
    The bracket is designed so that it self-centers, and is held on with two zip-ties.

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    And the body...
    Two 4mm (3mm) screws hole the bracket on.

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    The parts...
    The contacts are AA-sized contacts, both spring and cup. These can be gotten off of Amazon, just search for "Spring Contacts". After soldering, the contacts just push into the 3D printed parts, and are held securely in place when mounted.

    by Scott O, on Flickr

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    The wires for the chassis mount have to be routed before they are soldered on to the contacts. I designed the stupid thing and forgot this step... Once the contacts are soldered they are pushed in and the slack pulled out, the wires will rest if guides.

    I used 24ga silicone wire, but servo wires should be good as well. The connector will need to be snipped, leaving enough room for soldering and tinning. The blue wire is high, the black is return.

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    At this point the bracket just slides on to the shock tower. There is a pocket between the shock tower and zip tie that is an excellent place to secure the wires through.

    The body...
    The holes on the bracket are 2.8mm, which allows a 3mm screw to screw into it. These holes are 12mm apart on center. Contacts line up directly with the body posts, and positioning is fairly simple. I put a piece of blue masking take between to body posts to maker everything out, then punched the holes. The body post holes are 65mm edge-to-edge...

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    Verify all electrical paths before your connect up power. This goes double for making sure you have the contacts on the proper side. When it is all done you should be able to drop the body on and have lights!!!

    Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr

    If interested, the files can be found here:

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4319700
    Last edited by Greatscott; 04-27-2020 at 06:42 PM.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  2. #2
    RC Enthusiast
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    This is great! Next thing Iíll be printing! Thanks for the design and files!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Another great reason why I need to get a 3D printer! Nice job with the design and placement.

  4. #4
    RC Racer
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    Very nice work !
    Thanks for sharing.

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier TITANIUM94010's Avatar
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    I've considered doing the same, but having the current flow through my neodymium magnet mounts, but I don't like to have the lights on all the time.

    You've done a very nice job!
    Jumping: maneuver and pray it won't break.

  6. #6
    RC Racer
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    Could you share the size of the contacts you used ?
    I found different sizes, not sure which one I should order.

  7. #7
    RC poster
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    Nice but for those who are lazy or don’t have 3D printer there is always these. Magnetic body post with electrical contact build in



    https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Magnetic-Ste...wAAOSwDZhfBWxx
    Last edited by JCM5; 11-19-2020 at 04:35 PM.

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier ElectricPropils's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCM5 View Post
    Nice but for those whole are lazy or don’t have 3D printer there is always these. Magnetic body post with electrical contact build in

    [IMG] https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/X9wAA...xx/s-l1600.jpg [/IMG]

    https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Magnetic-Ste...wAAOSwDZhfBWxx
    That's super awesome! I might have to try those sometime in the future, I really hate the current system of using those tiny connectors.
    The present is theirs; the future, is mine.

  9. #9
    RC poster
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    Here’s a little separate electronic controller you can switch your rock lights or any other light on or off via your 3rd channel on the transmitter by clicking it twice. All these stuff are so cheap nowadays
    http://club5racing.com/electronic-sw...ol-waterproof/

  10. #10
    RC Racer
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    I printed the files and measured them: the contacts are 12x12 mm.

    I took ages to get my order in from Amazon, but the contacts arrived a few days ago, I assembled it yesterday.
    I used a servo extension wire (removed 1 wire).
    The roofrack from the Defender body hides the screws on top of the body.

    I haven't tried it on the trail yet.

    Once again, thanks for designing and sharing !!

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