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  1. #1
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    Is my E-Revo 2.0 cursed? Anyone else have nothing but problems with this car?

    I purchased a brand new E-Revo 2.0 VXL 6s from my local hobby store. I have had nothing but problems with this car. My car has spent more time down and broken than I've been able to drive it. I did not crash or abuse this car. Here's my list:

    1. Out of the box the servos need to be re-aligned so they are not fighting each other. I fixed that, but the 2 stock Traxxas 2075 servos failed within the first few runs with broken gears anyways. Traxxas replaced the servos under warranty and the new replacements failed again with broken gears. I gave up on Traxxas servos and I went with a single Savox 1210SG.

    2. I could not get the car to drive straight. I have a Hot Racing aluminum bellcrank and I tried the stock bellcrank but still no luck. I found out the stock servo saver spring was not strong enough so I purchased the upgraded stiffer Traxxas spring. It still was still not strong enough so I had to add washers as shims to preload and stiffen the spring even more. I finally got my bellcrank/servo saver to work.

    3. One day, within two weeks of purchasing this car, the stock Traxxas VXL6s ESC started flashing red and stopped working. Traxxas replaced my ESC and the new replacement did the same exact thing within days. The motor was fine, but the 3 wires are poor quality and started ripping/fraying exposing the wires, so they needed to be fixed with new heat shrink. I gave up on Traxxas and I purchased a Hobbywing Max8 6s combo. Hobbywing is great!

    4. Steering issues again. The steering would stop working while turning. In mid turn, the car would suddenly stop turning and going straight, which resulted in crashes. I found out I had to install an external BEC to remedy this with my Hobbywing Max 8 Combo. I don't like Savox servos.

    5. Plastic rod ends on the shock shafts kept stripping out, so I replaced them with aluminum rod ends.

    6. The ball joints connecting the axel carriers to the plastic A-arms kept stripping out on the front driver side. I just replaced them with stock traxxas A-arms, because I didn't want to install aluminum A-arms. I also noticed the lower A-arms eventually warped over time and would bend.

    7. Stock Traxxas tires cannot handle the power and rip within days.

    8. Battery compartments are tiny, which limits your selections for lipo batteries.

    9. The steel drive yolks connecting the rear driveshafts to the diff can't handle the power. They eventually develop groves, which allows more play for the driveshafts to pop out.

    10. Last week I was driving it offroad and a Lipo exploded in it. I was able to save the car.

    I have given up on this car and I am getting rid of it. I am convinced my car is CURSED. I HATE this car so much.

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
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    haha man wow what a luck! id be frustrated as well. back when i bought the 1.0 it had many problems as well but i like the process of repairing/upgrading, but it costed a lot of money to play for sure. and i thought the 2.0 was made good

  3. #3
    RC Champion FnFancy's Avatar
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    Electronics in rtr cars aren't very good. That's the same for all manufacturers. Depending on use the time it takes things to wear out varies, but all things do wear out. As far as batteries exploding, I wouldn't blame the car. I have completely thrashed my 2.0 and am very pleased with it. Granted the esc, motor and servo didn't last, I managed to strip the rear diff and crack the chassis. All in all, no regrets. Seeing it fly 40 plus feet in the air tickles me. Gotta Pay to play. The out drives developing noches happens on any car running this amount of power, switch left ro right and front to back to extend life. For me, the notch doesn't bother me. I guess coming from the og erbe diff woes has made me appreciate the leaps and bounds the 2.0 has made. I challenge anyone to put the 2.0 up against any other truck. And yes I'm a revo fan boy, you can check my post history to verify. You'll also see some of the abuse I put it through and problems if had, both OG and 2.0. Honestly, learning how the truck drives is key. Knowing what and when to do what it needs. Thing is wicked when you know how to tame and control it.

    it's alright son, I'll fix it
    Its alright son I'll fix it when you break it

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
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    i would say a wise choice is to get a roller off ebay, no electronics no tires, throw some good electronics and badlands and save a lot of money.

    i really dont know about other trucks, i am a revo fan as well i love the suspension and looks, “they” report other brands to be a lot stronger. probably true?

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the replies. I'm 2 years deep into this hobby and as of now, own 12 rc's, Traxxas, Arrma, Kyosho and Tamiya brands and different scales. I've spent over $10,000 total so far. I understand normal wear and tear vs crashes and abuse. I had an absolutely horrible experience with the E-Revo 2.0. But my Traxxas VXL 3s ESC and motors have been awesome, no issues at all. Hobbywing Max10 and Max8 are also awesome. I've gone through over 10 Traxxas 2075 servos. I won't buy Savox servos because of fitment and BEC voltage issues. It is a fun hobby, but gets frustrating at times.

  6. #6
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    Too bad about the e revo. I would also be frustrated. I agree, vxl 3s rocks!!!

  7. #7
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    Mine is cursed. My girlfriend’s is not. I’m much easier on mine and more skilled. All part of the hobby I suppose

  8. #8
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    I've had 4-9 happen to me,. I replaced servo before mine failed

    I've had less issues with the revo than my nitro slayer.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  9. #9
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    I havenít had as many issues with mine, but compared to the slash 4x4 and rustler VXL, the 2.0 breaks down much more often.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #10
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    Not cursed, the car just wanted to get acquainted with you!

  11. #11
    RC Qualifier nebulous.cow's Avatar
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    Yeesh what a bummer story. I would say personally, I expect setup flaws with all RTR's. It's how they are. They're put together by machines and sleepy people sometimes, and there is bound to be issues. My brand new Revo 3.3 had:

    -steering servos fighting eachother, linkages were good, but linkages were installed on mismatched holes on the servo horns...
    -carb settings were stupid lean out of the box. I had to reset them.
    -throttle servo endpoints were all wrong, and brakes barely worked out of the box.
    -traxxas TQi app was glitchy and wouldn't save settings I made to the car
    -suspension geometry is ridiculous out of the box, required remeasuring and setting up

    Every RTR, from any brand, requires some love right away, no matter the kit. That said, I've found my Traxxas models needed more setup love than my HPIs, Kyoshos, or others.

    I quickly put in a monster steering servo to just skip the 2075 all together. I did put the 2075 in as a throttle servo though, since it was an upgrade over the stock throttle servo. But I'll probably upgrade it as well. No voltage issues with my Xpert helicopter-grade servo for steering.

    But I find that almost any kits eventually, the hiccups get sorted out and the fun can begin.
    You know, nitro cars never have ESC problems haha, just messing. But for real, electronic problems are pretty rare on nitro kits. Sometimes simple is good. Sounds like you really got the worst of all of this though.

    I would say that even though the Erevo is '6s rated', it is a little underbuilt for 6s use. Are you having your issues on 6s? Didn't see whether or not you were using it on 6s or not. There's just so much RPM, torque, heat, and voltage, and these little gears and driveshafts just cant do it. No RC car was built to handle so much power that it causes it to do single, double, triple back flips just from opening the throttle. If an RC car has that much power, the forces on the gears, tires, motor, and everything else is astronomically high. Unless you granny the heck out of your 6s erevo, it's going to break. If you can break your RC car just from opening the throttle, without crashing into something, there's a problem IMO.

    I'm not saying I wouldn't use 6s on an Erevo if I had one, you bet I would. But I would be expecting it to explode just about every other run, and know what I got into when I bought it. To be fair, Traxxas trucks are pretty tough, but the forces at play with 6s are just so astronomical. I'm sure many of you out there would say your 6s erevo runs great and you run it all the time, but there's a huge difference in the way everyone drives, and the luck people have, and if the truck can't stand up to the majority of the users setup on 6s, then IMO it needs some design revisions.

    Nitro cars are usually incapable of self-destructing their gears due to the power nature of nitro, and it's a nice thing. I've never ever managed to nuke a diff, destroy driveshafts, blow out a tire, or strip any other gear besides the plastic spur gear on all of my nitro models in the past decade.

    Such is the hobby of RC, lol. Fun, but a lot of work sometimes.

    -Mike
    Last edited by nebulous.cow; 05-02-2020 at 05:20 PM.

  12. #12
    RC Champion RICK DIZZLE's Avatar
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    Sorry to hear of your troubles. Here is my info...I have personal experience with 3 separate E Revo 2.0s. Two are mine and the third is my bros. My first 2.0, had several bad electronic issues. But to be 100% clear, Traxxas took care of every issue I brought to their attention. First 2.0 went through 2 ESC's and lucky #3 was the fix. Also ended up having to replace the motor. Both servos shredded their gears after normal wear and after I spent the time to correctly set them up. I went to a Savox 1231sg and since I run this truck all the time hard as a street truck with no issues on 6s. No additional BEC needed at all. My bro got his 2.0....bad motor within 3 runs. Again Traxxas took care of it. Set up his stock servos correctly and his truck is run very hard as a basher. Only mods he did was the original Badlands, rear aluminum chassis brace and limiting straps...beats the heck out of it on 6s no issue. The 3rd 2.0 is my bashing beast. As already stated knowing almost all RTR RCs need some work and seeing and reading on here...I did a handful of mods to this 2.0 and it is set up as a true basher. Yes I modded and up graded it, but that is a huge part of this hobby...we are blessed to have this forum to learn from and then apply the learnings we have. I have thrown everything I can at this truck on 6s...huge air...massive crashes with cartwheels for days and after the stuff I did to the truck...its a formidable basher, not had any issues! I'm running stock ESC and motor with no issues out of the box and did ditch the dual servo set up out of the box going to a single Traxxas 2255. The way its set up and how Traxxas designed the driveline, diffs, motor and spur and pinion setup EASILY handles 6s...all day long...your drive cups are gonna notch under that much power. As others stated, just rotate your drive cups every so often...they last a long time. The only issue I have heard and seen on others trucks is blowing diffs when using self writing. That is a ton of immediate on and off power to the diff with no load.
    In closing, I am bummed for you. Dont let it get the best of you...keep building and bashing and have fun....and to folks challenging that 6s is too much for this truck...I respectfully and fully disagree...the V1...oh yeah..major issues...the 2.0 handles 6s with no issue driveline wise, flips, landing while on power, huge air you name it. The ONLY driveline issue is the cups wearing...which is a sacrificial part that requires maintenance anyhow...if all you need to do is rotate your cups here and there and eventually buy new cups to run at 60mph under 6s...getting huge air and bashing like crazy...ill take it.
    Just my 2 cents from personal experience.

  13. #13
    RC Qualifier nebulous.cow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RICK DIZZLE View Post
    and to folks challenging that 6s is too much for this truck...I respectfully and fully disagree...the V1...oh yeah..major issues...the 2.0 handles 6s with no issue driveline wise, flips, landing while on power, huge air you name it. The ONLY driveline issue is the cups wearing...which is a sacrificial part that requires maintenance anyhow...if all you need to do is rotate your cups here and there and eventually buy new cups to run at 60mph under 6s...getting huge air and bashing like crazy...ill take it.
    Just my 2 cents from personal experience.
    Good to hear it is better on the 2.0 too. But it sounds like they still have some electronics issues to sort out if you guys are going through 1-2 escs out of the box haha, that's crazy. And motors too, honestly a brushless motor should never go bad, it should just need bearings eventually unless you just cook it like crazy lol.

    It's weird, I just hear so many hugely varying opinions on the Erevo 2.0. People hate it or love it, break it or its indestructible. Or both? Lol. But hearing OP's experiences with 6s (still not sure if he was using 6s, but even worse if he wasn't) is similar to what I heard about the version 1 on 6s. Of course not everyone had the same issues, but man I guess some people just get unlucky. Issue after issue sometimes...

    -Mike

  14. #14
    RC Champion RICK DIZZLE's Avatar
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    Fully agree Mike! Yeah it was like there was a bad few batches of ESCs and the motors were throwing rotors...lol...it was nuts. I have been into RC since 1990...everything from my original Lunchbox to a TON of Traxxas platforms nitro and electric. My first 2.0 was the only time I grew real genuine frustration towards a platform. My brother got his..got through his issue and I saw what a beast it could be. Did a ton of research courtesy this forum and built my second 2.0. That fully sold me. So you can say I have been on both sides of the spectrum.

  15. #15
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    I feel sorry for the OP's bad luck. My experience has been good so far. Only complaint is the weak stock servos. This 2.0 driveline is leaps and bounds better than the V1. I wouldn't hesitate to put an 8s setup through it. The electronics are mass produced, so there are going to be bad ones, across all the RTR manufacturers. I have seen Traxxas make good on issues that do come up. They even go out of their way to try to help. Not many companies do that.

    IMHO This truck is better than the "horror stories" everyone remembers. How many trucks are out there being used with very little problems? You don't hear much about "this is a good truck." That's because they are out enjoying and having fun with it. Out of hundreds sold you hear about the bad one. If you replaced the ESC and motor to suit your needs, it will be a durable vehicle that can take a pounding.

    Also I have seen others change the gearing to get more speed, or change to heavier tires because they like the tire/wheel better. Or buy cheap LiPo batteries. Then to blame the stock electronics for failing because of modifications or changes shouldn't be blamed on the manufacturer.

  16. #16
    RC Champion RICK DIZZLE's Avatar
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    Agree Grizzly03...especially with your last paragraph!!! Also fully agree with Traxxas always doing what they can to make it right! On my first truck...after first ESC and motor issues, and second...both sending me brand new electronics...they paid on their dime to send my whole truck in...went through it and sent it back...again zero cost to me...and since that...that truck has been great! What other company would do that!
    Last edited by RICK DIZZLE; 05-03-2020 at 12:02 AM.

  17. #17
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    Thanks for the insight. I was running the car on 6s (Two 3s Lipos). For a $550 car I was expecting it to last a longer than it did. Also, wrenching on it always seemed so much more work than any other cars. I found my self having to use a lot more tools and a lot of switching back and forth between different hex sizes. Also, I had a lot of screws that rusted over, which meant stripped screws, a complete nightmare. I could not rotate my drivecups because the screws were stripped, which meant in order to fix it I had to replace both drivecups and a whole differential. I blame myself for the rusty screws. I do stainless steel screws on all my cars now. I never used the TSM because I found it was glitchy. And the last time I was able to drive it, I noticed the car would wobble left and right when I was coming off the throttle decelerating. I also did not use the self-righting, to avoid tires ballooning and unnecessary strain on the drivetrain. This car is hit or miss and I know you have to pay to play, but I paid and paid and paid...rarely got to play.

  18. #18
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
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    do you have good hex tools? i mean i have bought 2 hex sizes for the revo like 10€ each, which are very sharp edged, no screw has ever stuck in mine with them.

    i find it weird that you have so many driveline problems. since i switched to 1/8 driveline i have almost zero problems, that including big joe tires

  19. #19
    RC Champion RICK DIZZLE's Avatar
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    Dang dude. That sucks. Where were you running that you had rust issues? I bash in water and mud and wash my truck after every bash session. Use an air compressor to dry it off and never had a single rusted screw. Also have not stripped a single hex head either. What tools are you using? Lastly working on the 2.0 I primarily use 2...maybe 3 hex drivers for maintenance. Now I see why your so frustrated.

  20. #20
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    If you are running on a beach near salt water, bad luck will follow. I bought my X-Maxx on vacation while in Myrtle Beach, only ran it twice in the beach sand. I couldn't believe how quickly everything started to rust and corrode. By not living near the Ocean things like this wouldn't be thought of. The corrosion because of the salt was crazy. I only ran it in dry sand, I couldn't imagine how bad it could be if it got wet.

    I'll stick to my fresh water beaches!

  21. #21
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    I live in Illinois and they salt the streets during winter so that is why all my screws rusted over even after hitting it with an air compressor and cleaning it off. I have great tools and MIP steel hex bits. I just get annoyed working on the Revo because I find myself constantly having to switch bits because of the way it is designed. My Rustler and 4Tec are just so much easier to work on. I have Mini-Zs and a LaTrax Rally, I had a misconception that they would be easier to work on, but no, the tiny little screws and smaller parts, I find that it is more difficult to work on. Overall my 2wd Rustler 3s VXL has still been my favorite RC.

  22. #22
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RC-GP View Post
    ...I have Mini-Zs and a LaTrax Rally, I had a misconception that they would be easier to work on, but no, the tiny little screws and smaller parts, I find that it is more difficult to work on...
    I purchased a Mini-z to use during the winter. I agree that the parts are tiny. But these little guys are fun in the living room!

  23. #23
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    I've had many breakdowns and finally have gotten a point where I am kinda almost reliable. It is frustrating. If Traxxas had any kind of product assurance testing, and prior to launch, sent 10 enthusiasts bashing with the EREVO 2.0 they would find: Traxxas 2075 servos are just tinker toys. Everyone has them go bad within days to weeks. Why ship such junk, it's very tarnishing to the brand. The tires are just not made for 6s. If you do some wide open runs, they rip. If you "diff out" once on full throttle, they rip instantly. Why ship tires that can't take 6s? It just tarnishes the brand. The Velineon motors are cheapened up Castle 1515 motors. After my fourth Velineon motor failed in two months, I switched to Castle 1515. This then lasted 7 months of hard abuse. Now some people say "Traxxas support is great, they replace my instantly failing parts". See, I don't want to ship parts back to Traxxas every week of running and then wait 3 weeks for the round trip back. I just want parts that are reliable. How Traxxas support can handle the massive returns and warranty claims for EREVO I don't know. I guess some of the their other 1000 products work better and profits there can offset the constant EREVO claims.

  24. #24
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    Nope, bought a Jato.

  25. #25
    RC Champion RICK DIZZLE's Avatar
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    I miss my Jato...lol...thing was a beast and I built after Slayden's Ultimate Off Road Jato article...man it was insane power. Can't run nitro anymore where I am at. Closest local hobby shop is 200 miles away and everyone seems to be charging ridiculous haz mat shipping rates. Would love to have a couple nitro rigs back...shoot I even sold off my nitro Helicopters.

  26. #26
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    This car is challenging. That's my new word for PITA. Two week old truck and this is my first foray into this hobby.

    1. Steel toe link broke right in the plastic rod end. Trip to hobby store for curb side pickup. More my fault I believe than the machine.
    2. Rear plastic chassis support broke (one flip on its back when driving). Trip to hobby store for curb side pickup.
    3. Steering servos broke. Purchased the Savox SA1231SG single servo. Trip to hobby store for curb side pickup. Traxxas is replacing them both under warranty.
    4. The ball joints connecting the axle carriers to the plastic A-arms kept stripping out on three of them. I put supper glue now in to try and hold them in.
    5. Car started to buck around and stopped 3 days ago. ESC all lights flashing red. Phoned Traxxas on Friday and I will be sending unit in for warranty replacement.
    6. Looking at the motor just today as I thought it smelled funny when the car died, opened it up and it looks like a mess. I'll phone Traxxas tomorrow and send that back (hopefully under warranty replacement).

    Now, without this forum of which I have spent many hours reading (a huge shout out to the people that contribute!!), I would have been absolutely lost wondering what the heck to do and more perturbed than I am now. I do commend Traxxas for making this forum available. It is tremendously helpful.

    The upside is that I'm learning a lot of new mechanical things but jeez! I did not want to learn it all at once!

    End of rant.

  27. #27
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    Well said Infinty! The time and energy packing and shipping broken parts, emails back and forth, taking pictures of the receipts/proof of purchase, trips to fedex, and waiting for long shipping times are straight up bull****. What doesn't make sense to me is, how is it that my Traxxas 3S motors and esc's have no issues at all even with crashes and abuse, but their 6S electronics are absolutely pathetic under normal driving.

    I'm pretty handy when it comes to fixing things, but here is my motto that I live by:

    If a part breaks due to poor design or quality, why would I purchase the same replacement part when it will just fail again anyways? The company should acknowledge that the part is a piece of **** and its up to them to update/fix the part to make it acceptable. This applies to anything, real cars, motorcycles, rc toys, home appliances and/or whatever else. For example: My pet peve is when I go to public bathrooms and the automatic sensors on sinks do not work well and you have to wave your hands around like an idiot trying to get it to work. Its like the people who designed it didn't even test it before they started selling it and did not realize it sucks. GRINDS MY GEARS! Haha...
    Last edited by RC-GP; 05-11-2020 at 10:31 AM. Reason: added username Infinity

  28. #28
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    I am back in the hobby and looking at this platform. I am shopping so I am looking at competitors too. There are lots of threads that can give you ideas what is going to be a headache and possible solutions around the problems.

    I agree with two basic statements in the posts above.

    1) RC-GP comment about stock parts having a poor design and not being modified by the company to provide better service. This shows complacency by a company.

    2) Grizzly03 comment about if you upgrade it, thrash it; its going to break. This shows people beating the crap out of their equipment and expecting it to "take it". I put this into the category of people putting in tunes in their real cars...breaking something and expecting the company to take care of it.

    That being said as an outsider (for the most part) seeing threads over and over and over about some of the more simple issues coming up over and over through multiple resources is disconcerting. I am hesitant to jump at anybodys platform because while I don't jump (no ramps or anything) or try to max everything; I would expect to load up a 6s with said 6s cells and use the full throttle range without having to worry about being ginger or appropriate. Being a hobby there is maint involved to properly care for your equipment but if I have to worry about having tons of part laying around and would like to run with it versus it being on a stand all the time.

  29. #29
    RC Qualifier fuzion's Avatar
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    @bearcats

    the revo 1.0 platform really couldnt keep up with 6s power even with mild play. if it was that one on the game now, i wouldnt consider.

    now with the 2.0, drivetrain is solid, it has other weak spots. i am convinced that other platforms are sturdier, but none has the looks and suspension feel of the revo...

    i think you have to choose by heart. it wont cost you as much as it would with revo1. its manageable. if i bought now, i would aim for a roller and my own electronics-wheels.

  30. #30
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    I am leaning to 2.0 (heart). Although I have seen hints of a 2.0s? Not sure those were valid. I have to get RTR because I do not have extra radios or other current equipment. All my stuff is based on NiCD or NiMH.

    I am leaning Traxxas as I have a Summit. It has been durable (its really old..lol). I am also going to be upgrading to the ID Connector for LiPo so they can share batteries and chargers and other such equipment. Also the layout and parts are very similiar between the Summit and Revo.

    Going 70 isn't my desire...nice to know I can go there. I just need to stay fairly competitive with the competitors 4s version (buddies) while running 4s. I would rather be able to roll around the neighborhood, diamonds..etc and be able to use my expensive toy. LOL!

  31. #31
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bearcats View Post
    I am back in the hobby and looking at this platform. I am shopping so I am looking at competitors too. There are lots of threads that can give you ideas what is going to be a headache and possible solutions around the problems.

    I agree with two basic statements in the posts above.

    1) RC-GP comment about stock parts having a poor design and not being modified by the company to provide better service. This shows complacency by a company.

    2) Grizzly03 comment about if you upgrade it, thrash it; its going to break. This shows people beating the crap out of their equipment and expecting it to "take it". I put this into the category of people putting in tunes in their real cars...breaking something and expecting the company to take care of it.

    That being said as an outsider (for the most part) seeing threads over and over and over about some of the more simple issues coming up over and over through multiple resources is disconcerting. I am hesitant to jump at anybodys platform because while I don't jump (no ramps or anything) or try to max everything; I would expect to load up a 6s with said 6s cells and use the full throttle range without having to worry about being ginger or appropriate. Being a hobby there is maint involved to properly care for your equipment but if I have to worry about having tons of part laying around and would like to run with it versus it being on a stand all the time.
    Any car from any manufacturer will have it's issues. If things were designed to never fail. The costs of the cars would be much more expensive. And would price most people out. As a 500$ car would then be 2k to 3k.

    Most RTR cars will work well out of the box as long as your not abusing it past what it can take. And don't crash hard.

    To me it is looking at what does your lhs support, ease of getting parts. And what terrain you want to run in and how you want to play.

    For batteries... If you get a Traxxas car Any gen 1 style trx plug on the batteries will work with a trx ID plug on the esc.

    There then is a lot more chargers available, and that can charge at a full 1c or 2c charge rate. There are charge adapter plugs to take a ID plug to have a normal Ballance port to use in non trx chargers. I spent some $$$ on a good charger 1500watt set up and I can charge at 40amps a channel if I wanted... But I charge at 2c. is nice to charge up my 9400mha xmaxx batters in about 30 mins. Charge at 18.8amps. Big difference from old charger 80watt on both channels. Where it would take 90 mins to charge my 5000mha batteries for my eRevo 2.0 could only get about 3amp max out of it per channel. I charge these at 10amp now. (2c) and takes about 17mins from storage charge.

    The extra money I spent to be able to charge my batteries as fast as I can run them down was worth it to me.



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  32. #32
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    I've had quite a few trucks over the past 20 years (nitro only for the first 17) and as a basher, I try to find ones that can take the most abuse with the least amount of breakage and least amount of maintenance. I don't think I've ever bought a truck BIN that didn't need a handful of parts/upgrades to make them really last. When I run into something that there isn't a "fix" for and keep breaking it over and over, I get rid of the truck as I don't want the headache. My trucking time is limited as is my wrenching time, so I'm at the point now where I just want it to work.

    I had the ERBEv1 and it was fine. Needed RPM arms, axle carriers, servo, wheelie bar/skids, roll bar, chassis brace, motor support, alloy rockers, shock limiters and as long as you stuck with 4S, you could get through a season on a set of sliders. I wanted to run 6s, so I got the 2.0 roller and transplanted what I could. I never ran stock electronics on it, but I did run the MXL-6S for 3 years on 4S without issue, then it died on my 3rd 6S run in the 2.0. Not sure if that was due to time or what, but I had it geared similar to stock and things weren't running hot. Either way, I replaced the motor with a new one with a bit lower kv (blx2050kv) and put a max6 esc in it. I don't have a lot of wheel time with this setup, but so far, it's looking pretty good.

    It's now one of my most durable trucks, and I'm not easy on it, ever. I air this thing out and run it just as hard as my outcast 6s (which is upgraded to the moon) and more often than not, the ERBEv2 is still working at the end of the day. Between the ERBEv2 and my stampede 4x4 (extended chassis, rpm arms, blx185 esc, 3665 motor), I can make a full day of running with very little issues usually.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    I've had quite a few trucks over the past 20 years (nitro only for the first 17) and as a basher, I try to find ones that can take the most abuse with the least amount of breakage and least amount of maintenance. I don't think I've ever bought a truck BIN that didn't need a handful of parts/upgrades to make them really last. When I run into something that there isn't a "fix" for and keep breaking it over and over, I get rid of the truck as I don't want the headache. My trucking time is limited as is my wrenching time, so I'm at the point now where I just want it to work.
    This is kinda what I want to avoid. My time, like yours, is precious. I want to spend the time with my kids driving and running them around versus fixing them/waiting for parts. I am not looking for a speed demon and want to be close in performance. And I am not taking it off big jumps or doing that crazy stuff. Just hauling around the neighborhood and ball diamonds and stuff. I can handle as it breaks upgrades..for the most part. Replacing parts almost per run...yeah, no thanks.

    Like I say...I will be running against my current Summit (slow but fun in its own right) and a Kraton 4s. I think the ERevo would be a smidgen bigger than the Summit and a little bigger than the 4s Kraton.

  34. #34
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bearcats View Post
    This is kinda what I want to avoid. My time, like yours, is precious. I want to spend the time with my kids driving and running them around versus fixing them/waiting for parts. I am not looking for a speed demon and want to be close in performance. And I am not taking it off big jumps or doing that crazy stuff. Just hauling around the neighborhood and ball diamonds and stuff. I can handle as it breaks upgrades..for the most part. Replacing parts almost per run...yeah, no thanks.

    Like I say...I will be running against my current Summit (slow but fun in its own right) and a Kraton 4s. I think the ERevo would be a smidgen bigger than the Summit and a little bigger than the 4s Kraton.
    As long as you don't get too stupid, it will hold up great (aside from the servos). I launch mine pretty good and tend to have tumbles/cartwheeling events when I'm near WOT because I clip a jump weird. Mine still holds up pretty good.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  35. #35
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    What I've learned about upgrading parts:

    If you have a part that keeps breaking. Forces/energy from impacts/crashes are acting on those parts causing them to break. If you upgrade/reinforce that part, then the forces/energy has to go somewhere else, which usually means a different part will break. So you have to pick your battles. I figured out on all my cars how to upgrade certain sections of the car to allow cheaper or easier to replace parts to break instead.

    On my Rustler for example. I was breaking stock plastic rear A arms. I upgraded them to aluminum, then I started breaking the transmission cases. So I reverted back, because I would rather break A-arms than transmission cases.

    Some parts though just need to be upgraded to aluminum no matter what. What I absolutely hate are stripped/rusty screws or stripped plastic. For example RPM plastic is so soft, that no matter how softly you are torquing down a screw it strips the plastic.

  36. #36
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    I finally sold my E-Revo as a roller to someone. I hope they have better luck than I did. I'm so relieved to get rid of that car. It was such a money pit and a pain in the butt to deal with.

  37. #37
    RC Champion RICK DIZZLE's Avatar
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    Man sorry to hear that! Stinks you couldn't get it set up for what you wanted to do with it! Reinvest your loot into another RC!

  38. #38
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    Thats too bad. I know how you feel. I spent a lot of money to ensure I did not break anything, or i have enough parts on hand to fix anything 3 times over.

  39. #39
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Didn't even think to really sell mine... almost everything in it that I didn't transfer to my v2 roller, except the trans and chassis can be repurposed on my nitro revo's.

    Wonder what a v1 chassis/trans/center axles is worth... or does the v2 use the same centers... now I have to go look at stuff.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  40. #40
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    Didn't even think to really sell mine... almost everything in it that I didn't transfer to my v2 roller, except the trans and chassis can be repurposed on my nitro revo's.

    Wonder what a v1 chassis/trans/center axles is worth... or does the v2 use the same centers... now I have to go look at stuff.
    I think v1 and v2 have different centers. But not positive...

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