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  1. #1
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    6s X-maxx stuttering

    Hi, I have a 6s X-maxx that I pulled out of the garage since it's warming up. Fully charged batts and it was running fine but after awhile it will refuse to move forward and just kind of stutters, sometimes it will pick back up and work fine, or seem to 'catch' then take off again. if i hold it still when it's doing this, or walk along side it i can see the lights on the esc. the green light goes off when it tries to give throttle, but when it stutters it goes back to green and repeats, I can see no red lights or anything but the green light flashing with the stutter. I have tried a different tx/rx with the same result.

    You can see the stuttering here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tn96...ature=youtu.be

    Any thoughts on what might be causing this?

  2. #2
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    Could be cogging but might be gears slipping in a diff


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  3. #3
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    Have you upgraded your 6s Xmaxxís diff gears
    to the 8s diff gears ?
    7790
    7791
    7792
    fabricator

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier Acidic01's Avatar
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    Check your esc to motor connectors

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  5. #5
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    Have you upgraded your 6s Xmaxx’s diff gears
    to the 8s diff gears ?
    7790
    7791
    7792
    I have not upgraded the diff Gears, the truck is pretty much stock except for a castle motor fan I added. I also had FPV gear on it, but it was disconnected when this issue started.
    Could this still be a gear issue if it comes and goes? I would suspect a Diff issue would be an all the time thing.

    Check your esc to motor connectors

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    They looked fine, But i'll check this.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by inittab_ View Post
    I have not upgraded the diff Gears, the truck is pretty much stock except for a castle motor fan I added. I also had FPV gear on it, but it was disconnected when this issue started.
    Could this still be a gear issue if it comes and goes? I would suspect a Diff issue would be an all the time thing.



    They looked fine, But i'll check this.
    If one bullet is unplugged this could be the problem.

    I would open the diffs. 8s gears are worth it one way or another


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  7. #7
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    Alright, I'll grab the diff stuff. I know one of the wires isn't straight up unplugged, it will run fine, start doing this for a bit, i'll shut it off and leave it, come back and it will run fine. Could be a crap connection somewhere though.

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier Acidic01's Avatar
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    It could be a poor connection on the esc / motor. On my eRevo 2. One bullet got hot enough it melted the solder untill the wire came out. Replaced with new and no issues since. I also had that same connector come loose a number of times to the point I out heat shrink over it to keep it together. Connector probably got dirty and not quite expanded enough that it was making a poor connection. It's worth a detailed check to eliminate that as a possibility.

    Next spot I would be looking at is the diffs front / rear / center

    Pretty sure on a diff post,. If put truck on a stand. Remove tires. And then run the car forward and backwards on stand and listen for where sound it is coming. Taking a vid while moving phone around the car. Then watching vid to see where sound is from.

    This will help you isolate what area of the truck needs a tear down. To then look for parts damaged, broken teeth on gears, or debris ect.

    Always a good idea to check bearings and service while that area is torn down.

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  9. #9
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    It could be a poor connection on the esc / motor. On my eRevo 2. One bullet got hot enough it melted the solder untill the wire came out. Replaced with new and no issues since. I also had that same connector come loose a number of times to the point I out heat shrink over it to keep it together. Connector probably got dirty and not quite expanded enough that it was making a poor connection. It's worth a detailed check to eliminate that as a possibility...
    My Erevo acted the same, cutting in/out, stuttering. It was a loose bullet connection between the motor and Esc. Tightened connector and problem went away. I'm not saying this is what it is, but definitely a possibility.

    I don't think a diff issue would cause the motor to cut on/off like in the video. I have had gears in the diffs go bad. I would hear grinding or have no power at all to the wheels, but the motor would keep going. It is acting more like an electrical issue.

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier Acidic01's Avatar
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    I do agree it's a electrical issue. Is where I would trouble shoot first.

    My trick for expanding the male side of the connectors is to find a right sized screw and with a hand driver screw it inside the connector. Think I used a wood screw. This then expands it out just enough that it makes a tight fitting.



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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    I do agree it's a electrical issue. Is where I would trouble shoot first.

    My trick for expanding the male side of the connectors is to find a right sized screw and with a hand driver screw it inside the connector. Think I used a wood screw. This then expands it out just enough that it makes a tight fitting.



    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    I made the same in all of my rigs when arrives to my hands, this, and check every mechanical parts, screws and all.

  12. #12
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    Okay so little update.

    Electrical: everything here looks good, the 3 wires to the motor were super firm still, unplugged all 3 and replugged, no signs of sparking or a bad connection, rechecked rx connections but i dont think it's something here as i tried 2 different rx's.

    Drivetrain: bad, but not horrible.
    Rear Diff: One chipped tooth on ring gear, one on pinion, already ordered front and rear ring/pinion gears, don't think chips are bad enough to really cause an issue.
    Front Diff: this checked out good.
    Center Diff: This is the worst of the damage, the plastic center diff seems to have gotten pretty hot and melted itself in the bearings, this is causing some side to side movement in the center diff. This could be the problem but wouldn't explain why it runs fine then randomly starts to have issues, and runs fine again.


    So looks like I'll be upgrading the center diff and Slipper Clutch to the 8s stuff. I've seen a few posts of people doing this, does anybody have a parts list for everything i would need for this?
    Does this look right?
    Center Diff:
    Traxxas 5106 Blue Rubber Sealed Ball Bearings, 15x24x5mm (pair)
    17x26x5mm Precision Ball Bearings ABEC 3 Blue Rubber Seals (2)
    Traxxas 7796 Assembled Torque-Biasing Center Drive for X-Maxx (Requires #7727X) Vehicle
    Traxxas 7727X Rear Upper and Lower Bulkhead (fits X-Maxx with Center Differential)

    Cush Drive:
    Traxxas 7785X 20-Tooth Transmission Input Gear Vehicle
    Traxxas 7786X Cush-Drive Input Shaft Traxxas 7786X Cush-Drive Input Shaft
    Traxxas 5180A Black Rubber Sealed Ball Bearings, 6x13x5mm (Pair) Vehicle
    Traxxas 2551 Hex-Drive Countersunk Machine Screws, 3x10m (set of 6)
    Traxxas 2577 Hex Drive Button Head Machine Screws, 3x10mm (set of 6)
    Traxxas 6448R Spur Gear, 50-Tooth, Steel (Wide-Face, 1.0 Metric Pitch)
    Traxxas 7793X Cush Drive Housing, Silver
    Traxxas 7794 Cush Drive Elastomer Damper Pin

    Is there anything else Electrical I should be checking for? I'm still not convinced this is a driveline issue.
    Last edited by inittab_; 05-08-2020 at 09:14 AM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by inittab_ View Post
    Okay so little update.

    Electrical: everything here looks good, the 3 wires to the motor were super firm still, unplugged all 3 and replugged, no signs of sparking or a bad connection, rechecked rx connections but i dont think it's something here as i tried 2 different rx's.

    Drivetrain: bad, but not horrible.
    Rear Diff: One chipped tooth on ring gear, one on pinion, already ordered front and rear ring/pinion gears, don't think chips are bad enough to really cause an issue.
    Front Diff: this checked out good.
    Center Diff: This is the worst of the damage, the plastic center diff seems to have gotten pretty hot and melted itself in the bearings, this is causing some side to side movement in the center diff. This could be the problem but wouldn't explain why it runs fine then randomly starts to have issues, and runs fine again.


    So looks like I'll be upgrading the center diff and Slipper Clutch to the 8s stuff. I've seen a few posts of people doing this, does anybody have a parts list for everything i would need for this?
    Does this look right?
    Center Diff:
    Traxxas 5106 Blue Rubber Sealed Ball Bearings, 15x24x5mm (pair)
    17x26x5mm Precision Ball Bearings ABEC 3 Blue Rubber Seals (2)
    Traxxas 7796 Assembled Torque-Biasing Center Drive for X-Maxx (Requires #7727X) Vehicle
    Traxxas 7727X Rear Upper and Lower Bulkhead (fits X-Maxx with Center Differential)

    Cush Drive:
    Traxxas 7785X 20-Tooth Transmission Input Gear Vehicle
    Traxxas 7786X Cush-Drive Input ShaftTraxxas 7786X Cush-Drive Input Shaft
    Traxxas 5180A Black Rubber Sealed Ball Bearings, 6x13x5mm (Pair) Vehicle
    Traxxas 2551 Hex-Drive Countersunk Machine Screws, 3x10m (set of 6)
    Traxxas 2577 Hex Drive Button Head Machine Screws, 3x10mm (set of 6)
    Traxxas 6448R Spur Gear, 50-Tooth, Steel (Wide-Face, 1.0 Metric Pitch)
    Traxxas 7793X Cush Drive Housing, Silver
    Traxxas 7794 Cush Drive Elastomer Damper Pin

    Is there anything else Electrical I should be checking for? I'm still not convinced this is a driveline issue.
    If you want the truck to drive the same youíll need a hot racing locker. The 6s diff was locked) and am the center diff gear.
    Cush drive isnít worth it.
    Get www.wforccustoms.com gears.


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  14. #14
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    I'm not that familiar with the hot racing locker or the wfor gears.
    for the diff lock would I still want to go with the 8s Bulkheads and that diff lock, or it looks like hot racing has a diff lock for the 6s setup, SXMX51P

    The Cush Drive, what were you suggesting here?

  15. #15
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    6s X-maxx stuttering

    Quote Originally Posted by inittab_ View Post
    I'm not that familiar with the hot racing locker or the wfor gears.
    for the diff lock would I still want to go with the 8s Bulkheads and that diff lock, or it looks like hot racing has a diff lock for the 6s setup, SXMX51P

    The Cush Drive, what were you suggesting here?
    Yes you still need the bulkhead for this
    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...ing%2520XMX51P
    But not for this
    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...ng%2520SXMX51P
    The wfo rc stuff is IMO the best on the market. Their gear replace the whole Cush drive unit with mod 1.5 gears


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  16. #16
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    Okay Thanks for the pointers, ordered stuff for the center diff, I think I'll leave the slipper clutch for now as those parts look good and the set screw is stripped on the motor gear anyway. I am currently running 22/50 there, do you see any issues with this? When I do go for the 1.5 gear set what sizing would you suggest? This thing mostly just sees my back yard, not a ton of jumps, but I bash on it decently hard.

    Thanks again.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by inittab_ View Post
    Okay Thanks for the pointers, ordered stuff for the center diff, I think I'll leave the slipper clutch for now as those parts look good and the set screw is stripped on the motor gear anyway. I am currently running 22/50 there, do you see any issues with this? When I do go for the 1.5 gear set what sizing would you suggest? This thing mostly just sees my back yard, not a ton of jumps, but I bash on it decently hard.

    Thanks again.
    22/50 is good for now. When you get the wfo you could started with a 15/30 and adjust accordingly
    https://wforccustoms.com/collections...31945161179268
    Or belt drive
    https://wforccustoms.com/collections...or-stock-motor


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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Overpowerxmaxx View Post
    22/50 is good for now. When you get the wfo you could started with a 15/30 and adjust accordingly
    https://wforccustoms.com/collections...31945161179268
    Or belt drive
    https://wforccustoms.com/collections...or-stock-motor


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    @Overpowerxmaxx hey just saw your private message but not allowed to reply, I already got the diffs setup so I think I'm good there.


    As for the X-maxx, I installed a max5 and was running around with that, running good, everything going well, doing power wheelies. I then had it turtle over on it's back. Attempted to do the Auto right feature and it melted the spur gear


    I ordered a new metal spur gear, that just arrived today, running around a bit, having fun then I get this:


    It looks like I have now melted the friction pad (part of 7789)

    I removed the covers and pulled everything out and shaft and everything were extremely hot.
    I do not from what I can tell have any drive train binding.
    Is this bad luck or am I missing something here? should I be running something other than 22/50?

  19. #19
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    The 6s clutch adjustment needs to be
    tightened and double nuts to lock it

    8s upgrade fix;
    7786X 8s input shaft transmission (cush drive)
    7794 Cush drive key/ pin/elastomer damper
    7793X housing cush drive (front and rear halves)

    Happy Xmaxx
    fabricator

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyXMAXX View Post
    The 6s clutch adjustment needs to be
    tightened and double nuts to lock it

    8s upgrade fix;
    7786X 8s input shaft transmission (cush drive)
    7794 Cush drive key/ pin/elastomer damper
    7793X housing cush drive (front and rear halves)

    Happy Xmaxx
    I was thinking I might of had the slipper too loose, I will try to lock it down completely and double nut.
    Would you mind explaining the cush drive parts a bit more?

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by inittab_ View Post
    @Overpowerxmaxx hey just saw your private message but not allowed to reply, I already got the diffs setup so I think I'm good there.


    As for the X-maxx, I installed a max5 and was running around with that, running good, everything going well, doing power wheelies. I then had it turtle over on it's back. Attempted to do the Auto right feature and it melted the spur gear


    I ordered a new metal spur gear, that just arrived today, running around a bit, having fun then I get this:


    It looks like I have now melted the friction pad (part of 7789)

    I removed the covers and pulled everything out and shaft and everything were extremely hot.
    I do not from what I can tell have any drive train binding.
    Is this bad luck or am I missing something here? should I be running something other than 22/50?
    The self righting feature is very dangerous for weak gears, it has an amount of power to right the X-Maxx.

  22. #22
    RC Qualifier Acidic01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by inittab_ View Post
    I was thinking I might of had the slipper too loose, I will try to lock it down completely and double nut.
    Would you mind explaining the cush drive parts a bit more?
    Here is parts explosion
    https://traxxas.com/sites/default/fi...20Assembly.jpg

    Instead of a slipper clutch it's. A dog with a rubber piece that cushion the dog. As it turns. It wears out a bit faster than a slipper clutch but much better tourqe response.


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  23. #23
    RC Qualifier Acidic01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    Here is parts explosion
    https://traxxas.com/sites/default/fi...20Assembly.jpg

    Instead of a slipper clutch it's. A dog with a rubber piece that cushion the dog. As it turns. It wears out a bit faster than a slipper clutch but much better tourqe response.


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    6s version with slipper type clutch.
    https://images.app.goo.gl/P6kABkuBE5BL8W2U7

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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    6s version with slipper type clutch.
    https://images.app.goo.gl/P6kABkuBE5BL8W2U7

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    Ahh, gotcha, I was thinking of some missmatch of parts, but it's just running the cush drive. I have slipper clutch parts on the way, if I burn through those I'll look into changing over to the cush drive. thanks for the help

  25. #25
    RC Qualifier Acidic01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by inittab_ View Post
    Ahh, gotcha, I was thinking of some missmatch of parts, but it's just running the cush drive. I have slipper clutch parts on the way, if I burn through those I'll look into changing over to the cush drive. thanks for the help
    The center transmission is also different. 8s has a diff type tourqe bias gear. Vs 6s looks like just a gear. I think you also want to change this out if going to 8s. Don't know what is just drop in replacement vs also getting housings. But I'm not totally familiar with the conversion just know a little bit that I've picked up reading posts.



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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    The center transmission is also different. 8s has a diff type tourqe bias gear. Vs 6s looks like just a gear. I think you also want to change this out if going to 8s. Don't know what is just drop in replacement vs also getting housings. But I'm not totally familiar with the conversion just know a little bit that I've picked up reading posts.



    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    Yeah, i've updated to the 8s diffs, and also upgraded the center diff to a locked metal unit so I should be good there. I went ahead and bought the cush drive stuff in case the new slipper clutch pack burns out again. Thanks for the help

  27. #27
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    Just wanted to thank everyone for the help. Running with a completely locked down/double nutted slipper clutch now and the truck is amazing again. Although I'm thinking I might want to change gearing a bit. it now wants to do backflips, which i'll take that over burning up parts any day.

    Thanks again to everyone who offered help and suggestions

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