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Thread: Build Thread x3

  1. #1
    RC Competitor Tiogaplanet's Avatar
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    Build Thread x3

    Hello, all! This is my very second new thread here and I am completely new to the hobby. You are dealing with a noob. I've already made mistakes and I'm going to share them with you. This is a long read. I took a lot of inspiration from some of the posts I've seen on this forum. Oh, I read all the FAQs too. I saw mike505's warning to be considerate of dial-up users and refrain from posting pictures larger that 640x480. I'm not sure ho diligently folks are adhering to that guidance after browsing the sticky gallery threads. I'll try to keep my pictures under 640 px width but I cheated a bit on the height of some of the following pictures. To the dial-up users, I apologize for the large photos.

    So, just like getting in to CB radio, I've long been interested in hobby grade R/C cars but never took the plunge. A couple months ago after a trip to Goodwill my son came home with a 10+ year old 1/10-scale toy-grade car that likely came from Radioshack. It had no radio, battery or battery hatch. He played with it like it was a push car until after only a few days one of the steering knuckles broke. I eventually fixed it but while the gimped truck sat on my workbench I wondered what it would take to get it working. I researched the FCC website to find the right radio for it. I pulled it apart, cleaned it up and saw that the receiver circuit board was physically damaged so then I decided it wasn't worth the money to hunt down a radio and find the right battery for the truck. Instead, I cannibalized the radio, receiver and battery compartment from an absolute junk toy-grade Corvette he already had and transplanted it into the truck. It worked and I nearly broke my arm patting myself on the back, but it was painful to watch it limp around the yard.



    So I started looking at ways to fix it up which led me to looking at hobby-grade parts. That's when I realized if I was going to spend the money I may as well go all in. Even if I got the toy truck working something else would eventually break and be equally hard to fix or replace.

    Back to the kids. Yes, kids. I have three and the one who came home with the truck is already expressing an engineering mind-set (I am not an engineer, as youíve probably guessed by now). He is also incredibly hard on his toys so I thought it would be fun to build a car from scratch so that when it eventually breaks he can appreciate the time and effort he puts in to it. But I can't do this for just one of them, right? Fortunately for my wallet, one of my kids clearly articulated that she was not interested in building a truck (drone, sure, but that's an entirely different conversation).

    So, here we are today, my kids and I. I've seen the Rustler recommended as a good beginnerís truck so I went onto eBay and bought three Rustler chassis, one for me and two for my boys, not realizing the whole concept of "RTR" and that Rustler is an RTR. No matter, because our goal is to build these things together, teach my boys some valuable mechanical skills and develop an appreciation for our work. In other words we're going to completely defeat the purpose of RTR and build these trucks in the most expensive, time-consuming way possible, with no prior experience in the hobby at all. Morbid curiosity should be setting in with you now.



    My boys will build bashers. In all my homework I have become very tempted to build a fast Rustler. With that in mind, color scheme and usage model will influence my parts buying.



    Now the real horror begins. Did I see all the threads discouraging painting the chassis? Yes, I did. Did I ignore them all? Yes, I did. From an outsider's perspective, the Rustler chassis is ugly. Seams, ejector marks, flashing, uneven surfaces. Sanding, lots of wet sanding ensued. From 400 grit up to 1000. That's as far as my boys and I cared to go. It takes a lot of time to sand three chassis to beautiful. Anyway, the boys picked their colors. One wants a silver body over a blue chassis. The other wants a body like the multi-colored blue, red and orange that comes on the Rustler 4x4, with an orange chassis underneath. Personally, I'm going for a red body over a black chassis. I saw the threads on dying but dye won't hide all the manufacturing marks.



    So we've done the painting and the clear-coating. The blue chassis got some plastic putty work to hide the seams and ejector marks. It's far from perfect. It took so much time to sand out the putty that I decided to forego using it on the other two chassis. I know the paint will soon be damaged. I have no doubt. However, painting is one of those things that can always be re-done. I'm already considering buying another chassis so that I have more time to work on it and produce better results before any of the first chassis reach EOL or a rebuild interval.




    Three servos arrived in the mail this past weekend. Two are blue/black for the blue and orange chassis. I got myself a red/black servo. I bought three complete stock steering assemblies but I am going to swap out the bellcranks with the Traxxas anodized versions before installing. I'll put a red bellcrank into the blue and black chassis while the orange one will get a blue bellcrank.



    I have a blue anodized bulkhead and Traxxas blue bellcrank on hand, an orange Integy bulkhead in the mail and my next purchase will be two red bulkheads for the blue and the black chassis. I prefer to have the black anodized GPM bulkhead but cannot find one in stock anywhere online.

    So that's where we are today. Planning very generally for the future I'm thinking aluminum bulkheads, shock towers, caster blocks, carriers and transmission cases. Plastic control arms and camber links for all three (easy and cheaper to replace than the surrounding aluminum when the inevitable occurs). Wheels will be color-matched to the body. I'm not going to go crazy with motor and ESC for the two bashers but I'm going to seriously look at what I need for speed on the red/black platform, to include weights, lowered shocks, 17mm hubs and possibly the 34/34 conversion.

    One last word about the toy-grade truck: Itís still sitting on a lower shelf of the workbench and may indeed find itself stuffed with Traxxas guts one day.

    All input appreciated, especially if you can keep me from any more major mistakes!

  2. #2
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    Use rpm parts. They are plastic, but are a lot better then stock. If you break rpm, you can send back the part and they will send you a new one. If you are going for speed, go ahead and get a brush less esc/motor combo, it will save you money in the long run. I personally think the traxxas vxl-3s is great. If your kids are bashing, you're right, the paint will come off quick. It does look nice right now though. After seeing hobby grade, your kids won't want to go back too toy grade. If you are getting metal parts, I would recommend getting metal front and rear bearing carriers. Those are the only thing that ever broke on my rustler. You can also choose any shocks you want sense you're building them from the ground up.

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    If any of you want more of a buggy, then a stadium truck, you can make a bandit instead of a rustler. They are practically identical except for the tires, body and suspension.

  4. #4
    RC Competitor Tiogaplanet's Avatar
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    @TRAXXASAXXART, thank you for the feedback.

    Quote Originally Posted by TRAXXASAXXART View Post
    Use rpm parts.
    Will do for the black and blue chassis. I'm going to use the orange Traxxas heavy duty control arms (3631T) on the orange chassis just to color match.


    Quote Originally Posted by TRAXXASAXXART View Post
    If you are going for speed, go ahead and get a brush less esc/motor combo, it will save you money in the long run. ... If you are getting metal parts, I would recommend getting metal front and rear bearing carriers.
    Will do for both. Looking at Atomik RC for carriers.


    Quote Originally Posted by TRAXXASAXXART
    If any of you want more of a buggy, then a stadium truck, you can make a bandit instead of a rustler.
    I browsed a Google image search for Bandit and Rustler. My boys firmly decided on the Rustler. I'm actually kind of grateful they did. The Bandit just doesn't suit me.

    Yesterday my youngest installed his newly arrived bellcrank. The side with the drag link was sloppy on the post. I don't know how better to describe it but I needed to borrow the Teflon-coated washers from my own car to shim up the vertical slop on the post. There are four washers on the post with the drag link. I'll certainly be ordering more washers since I expect as much play on the other two chassis.



    The servo horns that came with the servos are too tall and interfere with the upper chassis. I ordered a set of some no-name but color-matched servo horns on Amazon hoping they would fit. They arrived today and I was disappointed to see that they were even longer than the ones that came with the servos. I decided to temporarily install the original servo saver just to finish the assembly on the orange chassis. If anyone can recommend a servo horn that will fit I would greatly appreciate it. At this point it doesn't even need to color-match. I just don't want to worry about the play the servo saver introduces. In a worst-case scenario I will dye the servo savers to match each of the chassis.


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    As someone who has been on the receiving end of some parent-child projects, I am really excited for where this may go, and am positive that your kids will love it! The paint jobs look awesome, though you probably didn't need to go through that much effort. For the kids trucks, I would actually recommend taking the chassis to Wal-mart or Home Depot (once you can) and finding a really cheap roll of duct tape that matches the paint color, which will help to protect the paint and chassis, and be much easier to touch up. Make sure that your kids have plenty of space to learn to drive in (preferably slightly apart so you don't have the issue of "You ran over my truck!" just yet), because these things can scoot. This is going to be quite the rabbit hole you've gotten yourself into, so use it as an opportunity to teach budgeting as well. Electronics are probably one of the largest choices you'll need to make, but I'd recommend going brushless right out the gate. I would recommend actually going with either a stock front bulkhead or one made by RPM, as Integy has a bit of a reputation for not being the greatest.

    P.S. Was that toy-grade Corvette a New Bright? I've got one that had the transmission strip out about three months after I got my Rustler, and am considering finding a way to refurbish it with parts from a Traxxas. . . . Or maybe find a way to fit the body on my Rusty, because it's about the right length but just a little bit narrow. That could be an interesting project! Dang it, you've got the gears in my head turning again! Thanks a lot!
    LONG LIVE THE PROFESSOR AND GOD OF DRUMS! RIP Neil

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    I currently am running one of those red and black servos in my rustler. I had two stock ones die on me. So far so good for the red one. The stock front bulkhead has been working for me, but if you are building from the ground up, you could get rpm or something. I totally agree, go with brushless if you can, it is sooooo worth it. Today I took my rustler to a dried up lake/water storage place and it was fun. I really need to get some paddle tires though. This is a good time to build those rustlers, being at home a lot. Good choice with the rustlers, great first traxxas! I've heard that the proline trenchers are good bashing tires, I am waiting for proline street fighters to come in the mail, I'm so exited. What tires did you have in mind for your rustlers?

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    maybe try dying the chasis next time , it will not get scratched off like paint

  8. #8
    RC Competitor Tiogaplanet's Avatar
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    @TRAXXASAXXART, I quoted your first two replies last night but my reply included a couple images so once again my post requires moderation. @ksb51rl's PM inbox is full so if @ksb51rl or @carraig042 are reading this, please moderate my pending post! I read the FAQs but didn't find anything about a noob probation period for posting images. Do I get off of noob probation after a minimum number of posts?

    @Is_It_Broken, thank you for the encouragement!

    Quote Originally Posted by Is_It_Broken? View Post
    For the kids trucks, I would actually recommend taking the chassis to Wal-mart or Home Depot (once you can) and finding a really cheap roll of duct tape that matches the paint color, which will help to protect the paint and chassis, and be much easier to touch up. Make sure that your kids have plenty of space to learn to drive in (preferably slightly apart so you don't have the issue of "You ran over my truck!" just yet), because these things can scoot. This is going to be quite the rabbit hole you've gotten yourself into, so use it as an opportunity to teach budgeting as well. Electronics are probably one of the largest choices you'll need to make, but I'd recommend going brushless right out the gate. I would recommend actually going with either a stock front bulkhead or one made by RPM, as Integy has a bit of a reputation for not being the greatest.
    The tape is a good idea and I might do it. Honestly, I was considering regular car wax and taking what damage comes. I'm not really put off by repainting. We do have plenty of room in the yard. There's a neighbor two doors down who I've seen racing their own truck in the yard. They're too far away for me to recognize the truck. I ought to go introduce myself. I am going to go brushless for the fast build, I'm undecided on the other two but they probably will be brushless also just in case I need to swap things around.

    Quote Originally Posted by Is_It_Broken? View Post
    P.S. Was that toy-grade Corvette a New Bright?
    I'm pretty sure it wasn't. The Corvette came with a Camaro which I still have. The only marking I see on it besides a licensing statement is "S.I. LTD CK0619" and the name of the Chinese city where I presume it was made. Both the Camaro and Corvette are absolute junk. The Camaro broke on Christmas day shortly after the kids opened the boxes. A wheel fell off! The plastic is so soft I used a pair of kitchen-grade scissors to cut the battery box from the bottom of the car when I was resuscitating the truck.

    Quote Originally Posted by TRAXXASAXXART View Post
    I currently am running one of those red and black servos in my rustler. I had two stock ones die on me.
    Did you replace the servo saver with a servo horn? Which one? The horn I bought is too long and interferes with the upper chassis.

    Quote Originally Posted by TRAXXASAXXART View Post
    What tires did you have in mind for your rustlers?
    Black tires. I will start out with whatever comes on the wheels I buy to match the bodies. After that I'm not sure yet. I think the stock Traxxas tires will probably be fine for the bashers but I'm already leaning toward 1/8-sized Pro-Lines for the fast build based on all the good things I've read about them.

    Quote Originally Posted by Role View Post
    maybe try dying the chasis next time , it will not get scratched off like paint
    I might dye the next chassis and see how it turns out. Then I can always paint over it when I'm not satisfied. The paint gives me much more choice in color and the putty under the paint hides all the manufacturing marks.

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    What is your budget limit for electronics? The vxl 3s would look great with the blue and the black car.

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    RC Competitor Tiogaplanet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRAXXASAXXART View Post
    What is your budget limit for electronics? The vxl 3s would look great with the blue and the black car.
    I'm planning to spend around $150 a month until these things are built. I'm not in a hurry to get them up and running. My kids need to spend some time building these and appreciating them. @Is_It_Broken? is right too that this will teach them a bit of budgeting - even though it's all my money. Thank you for pointing out the VXL-3s. I am going to seriously consider it for the blue chassis.

    The orange bulkhead came in today. I've read the opinions on Integy and I'm not completely sold on their gear but I need orange so it's their stuff I started buying. My biggest complaint so far is that it took just over two weeks to ship the part from California to Florida. Thanks to COVID-19 I'm learning to shop for parts that originate on this side of the country.



    My youngest kid is building the orange car. As soon as we took the bulkhead out of the mailing box he observed that it doesn't match the chassis. I had to explain to him that this is about as close as we can get to matching anodized aluminum to painted plastic. I respect his attention to detail though.

    I made my first stop into a local R/C shop today. A co-worker told me it was right across the highway from our workplace a few weeks ago so I've been waiting for lock-down to end to go see them. The employee I talked to strongly recommended I stick with the stock servo saver instead of using a servo horn. His honesty at the risk of losing a sale impressed me so much that I decided to buy his RPM front and rear control arms in blue instead.

    I am going down the rabbit hole.

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    I just used the stock servo setup for my rustler, but when I transferred the servo to my bandit, when I turn to one side, it stays there and doesn't come back. I just need to figure out how to fix it. Fun!

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    Quote Originally Posted by TRAXXASAXXART View Post
    I just used the stock servo setup for my rustler, but when I transferred the servo to my bandit, when I turn to one side, it stays there and doesn't come back. I just need to figure out how to fix it. Fun!
    Just adjust where your servo saver is sitting. Unscrew it and move it a little left or right, then screw it back down.
    I'm not afraid of my fellow man.

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    That didn't work. It is the old system and the transmitter takes 8 batteries (It sucks to leave it on over night....). My trim is all the way to the right and the servo just keeps going to the left. I don't know what to do. I tried centering it but it didn't work. Sorry these questions are off topic of this thread, if Tiopaplanet doesn't want them here, then just let me know. Any other things I can do to fix this?

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    It still won't go back to the middle by the way.

    How is the build project going?

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    RC Competitor Tiogaplanet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRAXXASAXXART View Post
    It still won't go back to the middle by the way.

    How is the build project going?
    I don't mind the occasional thread-jacking. Since I'm new to this hobby I'll probably have the same questions at some point.

    I'm waiting for an aluminum tie bar to come in the mail so I can install the RPM control arms I have for the blue chassis. I'm also waiting for two more Traxxas bellcranks, in red, to arrive for the black and blue chassis. I'm holding out on getting a bulkhead for the black chassis because I really want black anodized aluminum but I'm having a hard time finding one.

    Taking a lot of inspiration from nixzero for the orange chassis.

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    How about something like this for the bell crank. https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-6845X.../dp/B00BJ3S6TE You would have to assemble it, which shouldn't be too hard considering you already had one pre assembled as a guide. Actually I don't think that one is metal, so maybe not, it's really up to you. You know a long long time ago, traxxas made the rustler and bandit chassis black. I happen to have one. That's actually the one I'm having steering issues with.

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    A common upgrade for the bellcrank that would help to reduce cost a little is using the Slash/Pede/Rustler 4x4 bellcrank, so that you have a servo saver that is a spring instead of having to purchase a separate one or trust the little plastic thing that comes stock on the car. TraxxasAxxArt, you probably will get better help by starting a new thread. If the car you got is old enough to have come with a black chassis from the factory (meaning it was pre-XL-5, and had a XL-1 or MSC) that black chassis has a different plastic formulation that is actually a little heavier, weaker, and less stiff. The black chassis they sell now aren't that way as far as I know. You should take the servo horn/saver off and turn the car on with the trims set to 0 and then attach the horn so the steering is centered. If that doesn't work, try switching out the servo. If that doesn't work, try a different Tx/Rx combo. Based on the description of the car, I'm guessing that you have one of the 27 Mhz radios that doubles as a fencing foil, so you may now have an excuse to upgrade.
    LONG LIVE THE PROFESSOR AND GOD OF DRUMS! RIP Neil

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    Yeah, I got the bandit at a garage sale for only 50 bucks. It didn't even have an esc, it have an old analog speed control with a traxxas 2018 servo to mechanically change speed, lol! It was working, but I put an xl-5 system into it, and then the problems started. I'll try your advice, thanks. It is still the old xl-5 system and still takes 8 batteries, and yes, it has a very long antenna! The bandit does actually feel a lot heaver than my rustler, when I have them in each of my hands. Thank you so much for your help, I might make a new thread if I can't figure it out. Tiogaplanet, which color is it the hardest to find rustler parts for?

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    Does anyone know how to install Traxxas body savers, they are little plastic washers that I just bought from a hobby shop, curbside pickup? Also whats the rule on posting pictures?

  20. #20
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    Blue chassis - front end update

    Quote Originally Posted by TRAXXASAXXART View Post
    Tiogaplanet, which color is it the hardest to find rustler parts for?
    So far, it's been orange. Other folks may have different experiences.


    Quote Originally Posted by TRAXXASAXXART View Post
    Does anyone know how to install Traxxas body savers, they are little plastic washers that I just bought from a hobby shop, curbside pickup? Also whats the rule on posting pictures?
    Not sure about body savers but as for posting pictures, I read mike505's tutorial before posting my first post.

    My son spent a little time on his blue chassis yesterday. The bulkhead from Atomik RC was the first part I bought after buying all three chassis. I wanted it to check fit. Last week I bought the control arms from my local shop and the tie bar and pins came in the mail yesterday. I'm not thrilled that I've barely started and have four different shades of blue but the kids love their cars and they'll never look this good again so I shouldn't let it bother me so much!

    I'm also not terribly happy that the bulkhead has four holes for a bumper but only two are threaded. I'll thread them myself if I have to but initially I'll just try a small bumper and see how things hold up.


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    That looks great!!! Traxxas makes blue aluminium front and rear bearing holders, and rpm makes plastic ones, which might be the same color as the rpm arms. Great project!

  22. #22
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    Black chassis update - red bulkhead

    Received a Hobbypark bulkhead today that allowed me to install the RPM control arms and URMax tie bar that I had been sitting on for a while. I'm pretty pleased with how it looks right now.



    I'm still waiting for two Traxxas bellcranks in red and the orange heavy duty control arms to arrive in the mail. I ordered them from a company in Southern California. Last update had them leaving Los Angeles on 18 May. Since then they have gone AWOL. I'm hoping they show up soon but the way things are these days I think I'm stuck waiting. The vendor said they would refund my money if I didn't have them by today but I knew they weren't going to arrive since they hadn't been checked into the Jacksonville regional distribution center. The vendor's eBay store is now on vacation which doesn't surprise me given what's going on in SoCal.

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    Nice, I was wondering how your builds were going. Your car will look great!
    I also hate slow shipping!

  24. #24
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    Atomik shock tower

    Atomik shock tower and RPM camber links arrived today. I'm a little concerned about Atomik. I have purchased their bulkhead and color-matching shock tower yet neither package included the fasteners to mount one to the other. It irks me when manufacturers cut corners on their products like that. How hard can it be to show that they care about their products by making it seamless for their products to work together?

    I found some screws that sorta fit. They are a tad wiggly when loose. I'm not sure they are exactly the right size. I sent an email to Atomik to ask for their recommendation for the right screw. Their handling of my support question might help me decide whether to keep buying their stuff.



    I installed the camber links with the word "FRONT" facing forward. Is that right?

    Still waiting on two Traxxas bellcranks and a pair of orange control arms. The folks I bought from had their store looted and they are trying to clean up.

    Today I bought front and rear shock towers in orange from Integy.

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    Nice, what bearing holders are you going to use?

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    Quote Originally Posted by TRAXXASAXXART View Post
    Nice, what bearing holders are you going to use?
    I planned to continue using Atomik RC but their customer service is not very good. I don't have to give my money to a company that doesn't support their product well. I'm on the fence right now between buying Hobbypark or going with Traxxas carriers. Thinking about TRX caster blocks too.

  27. #27
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    Strange fit with Integy parts

    I'm starting to have problems with the Integy parts. I'm having problems with the Atomik RC parts too but that's another post.

    I received Integy's front and rear shock towers in the mail today. The front tower looks like it doesn't fit right against the bulkhead. The horizontal on the shock tower sits higher than the mating surface for the upper chassis on the bulkhead. I have opened a support ticket with Integy to ask what I'm doing wrong. It looks to me that the holes in the bulkhead to mount the shock tower are too high, preventing the horizontal part of the shock tower from resting at or below the mating surface on the top side of the bulkhead.

    Anyone have this problem? Solutions?


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    I would stay clear of Integy. Looks nice, fits bad and breaks easy, so I've heard. Some people like their motor plates and bulkheads, but I can't give you a first hand opinion, I've never used their parts. Here are a few threads on Integy parts. The first one has some more links in the 2nd post. This is just what I've heard, not my first hand experience, so I could be wrong about this. I also heard bad things about their customer survive. Sorry you are having a bad experience.
    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...parts-any-good
    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...Integy-Upgrade!
    Last edited by TRAXXASAXXART; 06-12-2020 at 04:59 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiogaplanet View Post
    I'm starting to have problems with the Integy parts. I'm having problems with the Atomik RC parts too but that's another post.

    I received Integy's front and rear shock towers in the mail today. The front tower looks like it doesn't fit right against the bulkhead. The horizontal on the shock tower sits higher than the mating surface for the upper chassis on the bulkhead. I have opened a support ticket with Integy to ask what I'm doing wrong. It looks to me that the holes in the bulkhead to mount the shock tower are too high, preventing the horizontal part of the shock tower from resting at or below the mating surface on the top side of the bulkhead.

    Anyone have this problem? Solutions?

    You may not like my solution... Iíd recommend RPM for the bulkhead, even though you canít get it in that slick orange. The reason being, thatís an area that tends to take a lot of impacts over time. Having a bulkhead with a bit of give will lessen the likelihood of other front end parts and potential chassis failures.

    Same with shock towers- if youíre just bashing. Youíre bound to flip it, barrel roll it, etc., With little time no flex, the impact goes straight to your shock shafts, and not in a nice way.

    I have a five year old whoís been driving a Rustler thatís way too fast, since he was four. Iíve tried a number of different setups to mitigate breakages. Havenít quite found a sweet spot yet, but Iím close!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  30. #30
    RC Competitor Tiogaplanet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RC Dad View Post
    You may not like my solution... Iíd recommend RPM for the bulkhead
    That's not a bad solution. I'm already sitting on RPM's blue camber links to complement the orange of this car. If this Integy bulkhead does not work out I'll try the blue RPM bulkhead.

    I went to Integy's website and saw this note for the shock tower:

    Shimming may be required for perfect alignment and fitment.
    Shims. OK, so I tried a few washers between the bulkhead and the shock tower. I also put a few washers under the upper shock mounts to keep them lined up with the lower shock mounts. It looks unsightly but I'll give it a try. I plan to order longer screws now to compensate for the shims. Once I start running these, if there's too much flex or if Integy parts are as bad as people say, I'll consider swapping them out for something else.


  31. #31
    RC Competitor Tiogaplanet's Avatar
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    More bellcranks

    After a month of waiting I finally received two bellcranks in the mail. Tonight my son installed one his blue chassis along with his new bumper



    My daughter installed the other in the black chassis. We haven't put the black chassis together yet because we're still waiting on a shock tower.


    As for my last post, no one has come forward to tell me that all those shims will push my camber links too far to the rear to connect up to the caster block. Since I still haven't heard back from Integy regarding my support request, I'm on the verge of switching to an RPM bulkhead. No big deal, I guess. Still pretty happy with the way these are turning out.

  32. #32
    RC Racer
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    If the integy parts fit, then you could just use them sense you already bought them and replace them if they break. Is the end of the black upper chassis really blue, or is it just a glare from the light? I don't really know anything about shims, sorry lol. I especially like the look of the blue rusty!

  33. #33
    RC Competitor Tiogaplanet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRAXXASAXXART View Post
    If the integy parts fit, then you could just use them sense you already bought them and replace them if they break. Is the end of the black upper chassis really blue, or is it just a glare from the light? I don't really know anything about shims, sorry lol. I especially like the look of the blue rusty!
    I'm pretty sure the Integy bulkhead is drilled wrong. My support ticket to Integy was met with questions from them. They thought my painted chassis was someone else's alloy chassis. I'm a bit flattered. Anyway, if they can't help I will replace the Integy bulkhead with the RPM blue bulkhead. The shims won't work after all because the camber links mount to the back side of the shock tower. By shimming the shock tower I've now pushed the camber links too far to the rear to line up with the caster blocks.

    The black upper chassis appears blue due to the lighting in my workshop. It's completely black.

    I'm glad you like the look of the blue one. It's coming along nicely.

    These came in yesterday:



    I bought three complete gearboxes thinking it would be cheaper than piecing together all three. I still intend to buy the Hot Racing gearbox with blue heatsinks on black for the blue chassis, Integy red for the black rusty and Integy orange for the orange rusty. I'll move all the gearing from the stock gear boxes over to the hop ups.

  34. #34
    RC Racer
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    Are you going to dye the gearboxes? I would recommend getting motor guard or wheelie bars to give the motor a little more protection.

  35. #35
    RC Competitor Tiogaplanet's Avatar
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    I sent the Integy bulkhead and shock tower back to them yesterday using a warranty claim to try figuring out why the two don't fit together right. Will report back eventually with the results. Their customer service person does not seem to have an in-depth knowledge of their product line and deferred to warehouse employees who seemingly never answered his questions on my behalf.

    Sadly, it does seem that Integy is as bad as folks have said they are. They might redeem themselves depending upon the outcome of my warranty claim. I would still like to buy their red and orange gearboxes but beyond that I may start looking at different solutions for the orange chassis. While it's easy to find blue, black and red parts for the other two chassis, I can't seem to find anyone who makes orange parts besides Integy.

    I've seen threads about white parts dyed orange. I might try going that route. Another option is to start complementing the orange chassis with blue parts.

  36. #36
    RC Qualifier Synnergy's Avatar
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    Tiogaplanet,
    I've been watching/reading your post and enjoying your adventure. Thanks for sharing! I like what you are doing with the colors! Keep at it and don't give up. I've used a few integy bulkheads and shock towers that have held up fine...I think the gear boxes could be good as well, I haven't looked real closely as to how the a-arms mount. Some of the different trans cases have different mountings for the pieces that hold the a-arm. I like the hot racing trans because those pieces have a little slot that sort of "locks" it in. Regarding the colors...you could paint some of the gray traxxas parts like you did with the chassis. The bulkheads should paint up just like the chassis...just thinking out loud...and you could even paint an entire gray gearbox from trx. STRC makes a metal motor mount that will fit the stock gear box which is a nice feature and they come in different colors. Good luck, and thanks again for sharing!
    MTFBWY

  37. #37
    RC Competitor Tiogaplanet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Synnergy View Post
    Tiogaplanet,
    I've been watching/reading your post and enjoying your adventure. Thanks for sharing! I like what you are doing with the colors! Keep at it and don't give up. I've used a few integy bulkheads and shock towers that have held up fine...I think the gear boxes could be good as well, I haven't looked real closely as to how the a-arms mount. Some of the different trans cases have different mountings for the pieces that hold the a-arm. I like the hot racing trans because those pieces have a little slot that sort of "locks" it in. Regarding the colors...you could paint some of the gray traxxas parts like you did with the chassis. The bulkheads should paint up just like the chassis...just thinking out loud...and you could even paint an entire gray gearbox from trx. STRC makes a metal motor mount that will fit the stock gear box which is a nice feature and they come in different colors. Good luck, and thanks again for sharing!
    @Synnergy, thank you very much for the compliments and the suggestions. I appreciate the help. I have decided to buy Integy gearboxes for all three cars but I've purchased just the orange and the blue for now. They should arrive in the middle of next week. I want to see how they fit before I buy the red gearbox for the black chassis. Since my boys are building bashers I am going to leave them with stock gears but I want the sealed Hot Racing differential for the black speed build. I am going with the inexpensive Integy gearboxes that lack mount points for a bumper as I plan to buy aluminum wheelie bars that bolt up to the bottom for all three trucks.

    I considered painting the Traxxas gearboxes but I spent so much time preparing the chassis for paint that I didn't want to go through it again with the much more convoluted gearboxes.

    Shock towers from Hobbypark arrived today. I let my daughter assemble the front end of the black chassis. She did a pretty good job. I'll set aside the rear shock tower until I get around to buying the red Integy gearbox.


  38. #38
    RC Competitor Tiogaplanet's Avatar
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    Integy gearbox in blue

    The blue and orange Integy gearboxes arrived today. We only had time to assemble one of them. My older boy moved all the gears over from the stock gearbox.



    Tomorrow night my younger boy will assemble the orange gearbox.
    Last edited by Tiogaplanet; 07-06-2020 at 08:01 PM.

  39. #39
    RC Competitor Tiogaplanet's Avatar
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    Integy gearbox in orange

    My youngest built his gearbox this morning. He started from here:



    And got to here:



    But the most frustrating part is right here:



    Two dings on a brand new part. I know these are going to get beat up in my kids hands but I would like to receive undamaged parts when buying new. It's probably not Integy's fault but they could package the part better. An expensive piece of aluminum in a plastic bag.

    Anyway, we learned some lessons installing these two gearboxes. On the blue car, the chassis fit too tightly between the a-arm mounts. I had to sand some paint and chassis material away to make the gearbox fit without forcing it on. I've read others complaining that the two smaller screw holes on the Integy gearbox don't line up with the holes on the chassis. We experienced the same problem and had to drill out the holes slightly in the chassis so as not to run the screws into the gearbox crooked.

    We're still waiting to hear back from Integy on our warranty claim for the ill-fitting bulkhead and shock tower. I like the look of Integy's parts but their service is turning out to be as bad as I have heard. Part quality is suspect too with mis-aligned screw holes being common problem in my brief time with the RC hobby. All I really want from Integy is the color. I am to the point of seriously considering learning how to do my own anodizing on someone else's aluminum part.

    While I write this I wonder if Integy participates in RC car forums and I wonder if they are aware of their reputation.

    I have purchased Integy's red gearbox and it's on its way. It might just be the last Integy part I buy.

    I've been window shopping for wheelie bars and I must say I'm surprised at how expensive they are. The bars that are built by hand cost the same as an Integy gearbox. They're just bar stock aluminum with some wheels attached - what gives?! I've seen the Integy wheelie bars and those are a non-starter since they only have one wheel on the ones they make for the Rustler.

    I'll probably get the Hot Racing wheelie bar for both my boys. It's on the cheap side. I'll probably get myself a Swami bar. It's more expensive but I'm the dad and I deserve it.

  40. #40
    RC Racer
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    Cool, your project is really coming along!

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