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Thread: Build Thread x3

  1. #81
    RC Competitor
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    Feb 2012
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    68
    Sweet project! I expect your kids have no idea at this point how lucky they are but they will eventually; great job dad!

    I have a couple suggestions based on my kid and I running our Rusty since '13; he's 12 now and there are a *lot* of broken parts in our history.

    1. I like plastic bearing carriers in the front combined with metal caster blocks. RPM are good; never have broken one of those.

    2. I *vastly* prefer the shock-absorbing ability of the RPM shock towers; these cars take a pounding and the RPM flexes without permanently bending (or breaking!). If/when your alu towers fail consider these.

    3. You said you're getting 3s batteries for the bashers (which are for the kids). Only in the last month have we tried our Rusty on 3s and now stuff is breaking every 5 minutes. Plus, the car will go well over 30mph on 2s. Use care here- on 3s it's a lot of car for the inexperienced (or tbh even on 2s).

    3a: $5 says that the stock driveshafts will be short lived with inexperienced drivers and 3s. I use and love the Tekno Slash driveshafts, but I think they required the use of Slash rear control arms. They're bomber though- bigger bearings, hardened outdrives, and near-bombproof Tekno plastic hubs.

    3b: Likely this is obvious but given the above make sure the kids' setups have the throttle end points dialed down. If available I'd also use the Expy and Punch adjustments to reduce the shock loading on the drivetrain until they learn some throttle control. Oh, and don't forget to adjust reverse too! Recently I allowed a neighborhood little to run our Rusty and while I turned down the forward throttle EPA I forgot about reverse and well... it got a little dramatic for a second

    4. At one point as a field-expedient fix I installed the RPM Slash front bumper (the RPM Rusty bumper broke and I had the Slash unit on hand). It's massively strong and quite flexible- some say it looks dorky but the protection is great for high-speed collisions by the inexperienced in no small part because it sticks out pretty far.

    5. Great job on sourcing the SDRC hinge pins- their front bulkhead is flawless; we have a couple of them.

    That's my $0.02 worth; I hope your projects turn out great and the kids are thrilled once they get to drive. Enjoy your cool cars!

  2. #82
    RC Competitor Tiogaplanet's Avatar
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    Apr 2020
    Location
    Jacksonville, Florida
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    57
    Quote Originally Posted by feralcomprehension View Post
    Sweet project! I expect your kids have no idea at this point how lucky they are but they will eventually; great job dad!
    Thank you very much for taking the time to share so much of your experience with me. That's just the kind of feedback I've been looking for.

    I had to loop up expy and punch. Hadn't heard of that before but I'll be sure to dial down the performance at first for my kids' trucks. I want them on 3S so that they'll interchange with my 6S setup. I also plan to have my daughter build a drone using a 3S battery.

    I'll keep what you have written here in mind and refer back to it when we start running these trucks.

    My son got his wheels for his monster truck. I was surprised to find that these tires are thinner and just a bit shorter in diameter than the tires for the orange truck. Still, my son is happy with how it turned out and that's all that matters.



    Earlier today I had my daughter install the SDRC drive shafts for the black chassis. She also fixed up the front end while she was at it.



    I plan on using ARRMA Dboots Hoons. That's why I'm using the hub adapters. I haven't but the tires yet. Saving that for next paycheck.

    Coming in the mail is a pair of tools from RPM to set camber and caster.

  3. #83
    RC Competitor Tiogaplanet's Avatar
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    Apr 2020
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    Jacksonville, Florida
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    57

    dBoots Hoons

    Over the weekend I had my daughter install the latest arrivals.



    Money is getting a little tight with us needing a new washing machine and the holidays approaching. I'll taper back my buys a little until after the new year.

    I've got the RPM toe-in and camber tools but the instructions say to use them with the vehicle weighted down with batteries and everything else that goes on the car when it's running. So I'll hold off on doing any alignment in the near term.

    I need to adjust the shocks on the black chassis so that it rides lower. I should have done that when I originally filled the shocks with oil but I had forgotten at the time. I know I need to use the tubing trick so I'll have to pour out all the brand new oil that is in the shocks now.

    Had anyone ever just cut the shaft of the shock shorter and cut new threads to screw the piston on? That seems like a better approach to me because it would keep the piston in the middle of the shock body rather than near the top if I use the tubing trick.

  4. #84
    RC Competitor Tiogaplanet's Avatar
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    Apr 2020
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    Jacksonville, Florida
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    57

    A couple motors

    I ordered a couple motors on Amazon. Nothing hot, just well reviewed and mostly color-matched. My boys installed them last night.



    We will put color-matched loom over the black wires.

    If anyone has any recommendations for switching to lower-riding shocks on my speed build, I'm all ears. I know about using fuel tubing on the shock shaft but I want my chassis so low there would be pretty much no rebound in my current shocks - they would be completely compressed. I have also heard of moving the front shocks to the rear and putting car shocks up front. If anyone knows of a particular car shock that would be a pretty easy swap into Rustler to make it ride lower I'd like to hear it.
    Last edited by Tiogaplanet; 11-21-2020 at 06:50 AM. Reason: I'm just now learning about using the E-Revo shocks to lower a Rustler.

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