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  1. #1
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    Help: Drive shaft started to melt plastic

    This might be discussed already...but I saw the drive housing started to melt the plastics being it from the internal tray?

    What can I do to prevent this? I was thinking of putting thin heat shrink over the brass tube?

    Any advise or help please?

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    If your brass tube (people sometimes call it a drive tube or stuffing tube) is melting the part of the black plastic electronics tray that holds your brass tube, your either not lubing your flex cable good enough, not using marine grade grease, or not lubing your flex cable with each and every battery change. I'm assuming of course, that your Spartan is stock. If your Spartan is modified to the point of crazy, you might need a constant flow lubing system. I doubt, though, that you're modified to that point...few people are.

    Another thing that can cause your problem is a prop that isn't balanced, or a slightly damaged prop. When your Spartan is out of the water, with a fresh lubrication, it should sound smooth when you blip the throttle. You shouldn't hear a vibration type sound.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 05-15-2020 at 03:44 AM.
    Life's to short to be a sour puss.

  3. #3
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    HI there

    Thnx for the reply

    1.I think the problem is my grease..i was advised to use white food machine grease...i dint put in Marine grease..which i have ordered now and will put in.

    The melt was not too bad, so i was planning to add a little bit of heat shrink over the drive tube, so that the space created by the melt is taken up, and maybe the heat shrink can create a bit of a buffer between the brass and the plastic.

    My prop is brand new, no damage, but im not sure if its balanced, also, i only have an aircraft balancer, but one that works with magnets so it should indicate the heavy side....

    where does one shave off on a marine prop?

    2. Ive seen on you tube some guys splits the water feeding lines for one to go to the esc and the other to the motor. However i have not yet been able to order a double pick up rudder...wil a single pickup be sufficient to supply enough water for the split? I've also seen that one can open up the area around the pickup to allow more water going through...not sure if i want to go close to there with a dremmel or a file.....whats your opinion?

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    You don't want to split a line if you have a single port rudder. If not done exactly right one line will starve the other. Wait until you can get a duel rudder before you split your lines. If you run 6s with your single cooling line, I'd suggest doing no more than 2 runs a day, so get your duel port rudder as soon as you can. That way, you don't have to worry about overheating anymore.

    If you have a stock plastic Traxxas rudder your balance is good. If you get a metal rudder let us know.

    Who ever told you to use food grease on your Spartan's flex cable, feel free to punch them in the nose. I give you my permission. (lol)
    Life's to short to be a sour puss.

  5. #5
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    HI RegularGuy

    1) You said in your message: " If not done exactly right one line will starve the other"
    Could you guide me to do it exactly right? purely as dual rudder pick ups are not available in South Africa, so it will be a while before il get one, so it will be nice to have cold water going to the motor vs warmer water from the ESC then to the motor.

    2)I have put heat shrink tube over the 2 sections touching the plastic in the radio tray...its very thin heat shrink so spacing isn't an issue, yet i know the heat shrink will absorb a bit more heat vs the metal touching the plastic, with this and Marine grease, ill let you know how my next run went...also i saw my drive mount at the back wasnt spaced 100% vs the driveshaft, so the drive cable was close to the one side rather than centre of the drive shaft.

    Ill be building the ESC cooller as in your other posts, keen to see how that helps.

    3). How warm/hot can Lipo's get before its dangerous or detrimental to the batteries? I'm using Gen Ace 5300 3s' with a 45 C rating... will higher C ratings help keeping the batteries temps down? the batts was quite war, but not nearly so hot that i couldn't touch it....but i was definitely very warm....your opinion?

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    I can answer question#3 real quick. You want your Lipo batteries to be in the 115-120 range. They take damage at the 140 range.

    With paragraph #2 you would have to take a picture for me. I think you might be talking about your strut spacing.

    Question #1, If you can't get a duel port rudder. Guys will use a single port rudder along with a single port water pickup. You should look into that. They are a very common RC boat part.
    Life's to short to be a sour puss.

  7. #7
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    Thank you very much.
    I guess your degrees for the batteries are i Farenheit?
    Thnx for the advice so far. Ill look into the single port water pickup

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Degald View Post
    I guess your degrees for the batteries are in Fahrenheit?
    Yes sir...Fahrenheit, American Standard, hot dogs, and American hot apple pie is the only way I roll. (lol)
    Life's to short to be a sour puss.

  9. #9
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    I found at my local hobby shop single port water scoops...so will be installing that.
    Can I ask something about the ESC...I have the stock motor and run 2 x 3s Gen Ace 5300mag 45C Batts. Im thinking of buying a Hobbywing 180a speaking ESC... Would this automatically reduce ESC temps, considering the other part stay stock?

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