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  1. #1
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    Ahhhhh......Erevo 2.0 pillow balls and caps need adjusting every run...?

    the E revo 2.0 pillow ball screws and caps need to be readjusted/screwed back tight EVERY run. I don't mind maintainence but this is kind of rediculous..anyone able to run an erevo 2.0 without having to deal with this? Any remedy?

  2. #2
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bcmgunner View Post
    the E revo 2.0 pillow ball screws and caps need to be readjusted/screwed back tight EVERY run. I don't mind maintainence but this is kind of rediculous..anyone able to run an erevo 2.0 without having to deal with this? Any remedy?
    Pillow balls a drop of can glue as you screw them in and prevent them from backing out. For the caps... Perhaps a drop of locktight blue. The caps should not be totally tight. Backed off enough to allow for movement of a arms and steering. Through full range. But not totally sloppy

    If your making caps to tight perhaps that is it? I rarly have to adjust mine. Perhaps check for sloop every 10 runs or so.. give it a 1/8 turn.


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  3. #3
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    I adjust them so there is a little bit of movement through out range of suspension movement..they keep coming out..

  4. #4
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    I'm not sure what you mean by "I adjust them so there is a little bit of movement." I tighten mine till right at the point of some play/no play and no more and use dry lube. I have no issues. If you tighten them too much that will make them back out.

    And if plastic parts are repeatedly tightened, that can start to strip the plastic threads.

  5. #5
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    Same thing with me (the pillow balls backing out). Got so bad one time the wheel came off the suspension arm! For that one, I unscrewed both on that same wheel, put in some drops of super glue into both holes and screwed them back in to tightness, then backed off a 1/4 turn. I'm hoping that's a semi-permanent fix, but my machine went down for the count shortly thereafter, so I'm not certain.

  6. #6
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    I did the couple drops of medium CA in each pillow ball hole prior to screwing 100% in on all four. Also couple drops of blue loctite on the cap threads. With this I've had zero issues in a couple months now, and I bash several times a week. It's a total solution. Too bad Traxxas didn't put more thread on those puppies, definitely underdesigned and will fail on everyone after enough runs.

  7. #7
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    Okay. I tried Teflon tape, so far its working. To clarify, I screw pillow balls tight, then back of the caps to get minimum play through out full range of movement. I did it this way because this is how Traxxas told me to do it.

  8. #8
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    Hey, uh, what does "CA" mean? I've sen that numerous times.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bcmgunner View Post
    Okay. I tried Teflon tape, so far its working. To clarify, I screw pillow balls tight, then back of the caps to get minimum play through out full range of movement. I did it this way because this is how Traxxas told me to do it.
    I just ran 3 sets of packs at the track today and my teflon taped caps didn't move. Super glue gel definitely works on the pivot balls too. Been doing both of those for years. I have tekno carriers on my v1 and those have little set screws that lock the caps in place. I wish traxxas would have done that in the 2.0

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  10. #10
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dberry View Post
    Hey, uh, what does "CA" mean? I've sen that numerous times.
    It's short for Cyanoacrylate glue

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  11. #11
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bcmgunner View Post
    Okay. I tried Teflon tape, so far its working. To clarify, I screw pillow balls tight, then back of the caps to get minimum play through out full range of movement. I did it this way because this is how Traxxas told me to do it.
    Sorry. I wasn't sure which ones you were tightening tight. I'm glad the teflon tape is working.

  12. #12
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    Although it seems the Erevo 2.0 is very maintainence heavy in the beginning, once you get it all figured out what needs attention, it is in my opinion one of the coolest rc cars ever made and definatly my all time favorite. The wrench time has been worth it. I would recommend to Traxxas to summarize briefly in 1 or 2 pages what needs special attention and include that in the instructions, make it RTR with steel geared servos and it would be the baddest, coolest rc available.

  13. #13
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    CA is basically super glue. There are also different formulations. Google it. https://www.google.com/search?client...-1-d&q=ca+glue

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by RevoJax View Post
    I just ran 3 sets of packs at the track today and my teflon taped caps didn't move. Super glue gel definitely works on the pivot balls too. Been doing both of those for years. I have tekno carriers on my v1 and those have little set screws that lock the caps in place. I wish traxxas would have done that in the 2.0

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    Oooh, set screw on the ball caps would be perfect. Seems set screws on the pillow ball threads themselves would also be a possible solution. But really they just need more thread. Once area Traxxas forgot to fortify in the 2.0.

  15. #15
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bcmgunner View Post
    Okay. I tried Teflon tape, so far its working.
    I haven't needed that on my ERBEv2, but I did need that on my outcast 6s as they backed out constantly. Couple wraps of teflon plumbers tape and it's been fine for 2 years.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  16. #16
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    Its amazing how many wraps I can put on the caps and they still thread right in

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  17. #17
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    Good thread. Thanks guys!

  18. #18
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    I wonder if there is an aluminum hub carrier with aluminum caps?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bcmgunner View Post
    I wonder if there is an aluminum hub carrier with aluminum caps?
    Yes, there are aluminum carriers and caps for the axle carriers. Iíve seen ones from GPM and Hot Racing, idk how they are though. Right now I have stock Traxxas axle carriers and no problems, though I donít bash my rcís as hard as some others on the forum. Maybe theyíll chime in about the aluminum axle carriers.


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  20. #20
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    Awesome thank you.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    ...and use dry lube. I have no issues. If you tighten them too much that will make them back out.

    And if plastic parts are repeatedly tightened, that can start to strip the plastic threads.

    What type of dry lube do you use? I got some of this at HomeDepot but not sure if its appropriate (right? Buy THEN ask I did...). I am tearing apart the front of end of the Summit to do maint and lubrication.

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-...-TDL/202532762

  22. #22
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bearcats View Post
    What type of dry lube do you use? I got some of this at HomeDepot but not sure if its appropriate (right? Buy THEN ask I did...). I am tearing apart the front of end of the Summit to do maint and lubrication.

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-...-TDL/202532762
    That could work. I use powdered graphite. Used for lubing key holes in door locks. Lhs should have this as well. The bottle I got from lhs had a long needle great for looking into the rubber boots of the cap.

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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    That could work. I use powdered graphite. Used for lubing key holes in door locks. Lhs should have this as well. The bottle I got from lhs had a long needle great for looking into the rubber boots of the cap.

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    Thats what I was thinking of originally. Like the ol' pinewood derby graphite. Didnt see any a the LHS but Ill be honest I was trying to avoid people more than anything...so not a very focused search. HD was much more sparse in regard to people/area.

    I don't want something goopy but want something that wont harm whats there either. Guess when I tear it down this evening Ill spray it on a metal part and see what the finish is.

  24. #24
    RC Champion olds97_lss's Avatar
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  25. #25
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Bearcats That will work. Anything that doesn't attract dirt and safe for plastics.

  26. #26
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    Okay here's an update, no need for glue or loctite. Teflon tape is the trick. Finally no more backing out of pillow balls or caps. If anyone has broke the rear chassis brace, remove the skid plates and inspect the center rear drive shaft. With the brace broken the chassis rubbed on the drive shaft peeling all kinds of material away and warped the shaft. Replaced that shaft today, now its ready to rock!

  27. #27
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    I have used Teflon tape on my v1 and now my 2.0 and no problems. Someone mentioned how many wraps of Teflon tape you can put on the caps and it still goes in....yep I had that same thought too when it looked like it just couldn’t take anymore it still went in. The pillow balls aren’t as hungry for the tape, have to know when to say when there or you’ll end up stripping out the plastic in the arms. I’ve been real tempted to add grub screws with nylon tips to keep the pillow balls in place. Really wouldn’t take much effort to accomplish. I’ve also thought about inserting a pin of some kind through where the cap goes in as a mechanical “lock” for the caps. Those notches would be perfect for something like that.

  28. #28
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    All great tips!
    I've used superglue gel in all pillow ball holes in the A-arms, screwed them in 100%, and one tiny drop of the same glue on the caps, then installed them tight, with proper suspension and steering range. Holding up so far, nothing backed out ever since.
    B/R JEREMY.

    RCblog.nl Summit●ERevo2●X-MAXX●MAXX

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lensgrinder View Post
    I have used Teflon tape on my v1 and now my 2.0 and no problems. Someone mentioned how many wraps of Teflon tape you can put on the caps and it still goes in....yep I had that same thought too when it looked like it just couldn’t take anymore it still went in. The pillow balls aren’t as hungry for the tape, have to know when to say when there or you’ll end up stripping out the plastic in the arms. I’ve been real tempted to add grub screws with nylon tips to keep the pillow balls in place. Really wouldn’t take much effort to accomplish. I’ve also thought about inserting a pin of some kind through where the cap goes in as a mechanical “lock” for the caps. Those notches would be perfect for something like that.
    A grub screw would be a good way to do it. A pin is problematic once the plastic wears and you have to shift it.

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