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  1. #41
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    Looking good. What weight shock and diff oil are you planning on using?

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2old2care View Post
    Looking good. What weight shock and diff oil are you planning on using?
    Thanks. For shocks I'm going to start with 40 or 50 and go from there. I want it a bit on the stiffer side.

    As far as diff oil, I want the rear pretty stiff as well, but I'm not sure what to start with. Maybe 50k? And I'll probably have the front a little lighter.

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  3. #43
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    This build's not dead! Just moving very slowly. Don't have pics right now, but I have the TRX steel CVD's installed. I'm still missing a few miscellaneous parts but the big ones are as follows:

    ESC
    Motor
    Radio
    Batteries
    Wheels
    Body

    As far as esc, I'm thinking the SW3 will do the trick. However, I'm undecided about the motor. I want a cool motor and cool batteries for a nice long run time. And I want quick, but nothing blazing fast.

    What do you guys think?

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  4. #44
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    VXL-3M system is in. I wanted to go with the SW 3, but a quick test fit showed me that the motor mounting holes won't line up. Flysky transmitter is currently in the mail

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  5. #45
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    Gems ace batteries, charger, and parallel connector are on the way. I can't wait to try out the XT60 connectors. This stuff is expen$$ive

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  6. #46
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    Rear RPM bumper is on, receiver installed and antenna tube bent, center diff is in, and a couple of missing suspension pins are in.

    Waiting on black GPM links, front bumper, and Savox servo to arrive. Need plugs soldered to batteries, wheels and a body and I'm ready to rock!

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  7. #47
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    Maiden voyage today was a success. The wheels are 1/10 scale since they're the only ones I have so the motor ran a little warm. Other than that, the drivetrain and everything feels good!

    One thing I'll definitely have to address is the fact that I'd still running the slash springs. And I didn't realize until recently that these would be way too soft, which makes sense since the slash has a shorter track width. So the car is really saggy.

    Looking around, I think I'm gonna grab some gpm shocks when I get the chance. Everyone says they don't leak, and I might as well since these shocks+springs are at least 6 years old.

    *ALSO* Does anyone know where I can find HR's sway bar kit? Everywhere seems to be out of stock of them

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  8. #48
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    If running the bigger tires may want summit springs.



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  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    If running the bigger tires may want summit springs.



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    They're just testing tires.

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  10. #50
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Maybe this could help with Traxxas springs.

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Maybe this could help with Traxxas springs.
    Thank you, that's very helpful. I currently have the double green springs on.

    As far as the rates go, would 1.76 theoretically be twice as stiff as .88? Or is it different than that

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  12. #52
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    Part of the 0250-MG gang now. Also part of the GPM turnbuckle gang woop woop.

    You can probably tell from the pictures but I've been ripping this thing around pretty hard lately.

    Originally, I was going for a more regal, fine-tuned build, but now it seems that this thing will be more of a basher. But I guess time will tell. It's been fun though! As much as I need the appropriate wheels, a body, and some new shocks, this little car has been a lot of fun.

    Finances currently limit me so I won't be able to buy new trenchers for a little bit, but that's okay. I'm thinking when I get them on, I'll see how it drives and might consider gearing it down. As it is with the 1/10 scale wheels, the car is a bit too fast to really handle. Which makes it harder to point a car this small the direction I want to go. It's just too jittery. When I mash the throttle I want it to go straight, not 45 degrees to the right or left, ya know?

    The thing will still wheelie though, even with the center diff. Not 100 percent of the time, just when it's rolling at a slower speed or taking off from a standstill.

    On the list, in order of priority:

    2.2 trenchers
    TRX body (painted black)
    Alum shocks w/threaded lower caps
    T-Bone brace
    Gyro
    Extended rear A-arms
    HR beveled diff
    Sway bars? (Not sure where to find the HR ones)

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  13. #53
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    Small update, no pics rn though. A couple months ago I did some unnecessarily hard bashing at a skate park and broke a few things. Broke my bellcrank, cracked my chassis, my front bulkhead, and one of my rear a-arms. I will hopefully be buying replacements soon, but I won't be driving much until I acquire some more of the stuff to actually complete the car. I still have the old slash springs from 10 years ago and the shocks are bursting oil out even though I rebuilt them. So I wanna get some newer shocks with stiffer springs. I still need tires and a body, and I'd like a chassis brace and maybe some RPM a arms.

    I also need to get a set of helping hands to help me with soldering. I have one of my batteries soldered with the xt60 connector, but I tried to solder the other one and did a crappy job and partially melted the connector housing lol. So does anyone have any tips for soldering? I have flux and a powerful enough iron and I make sure to prep the end of the wire, but for some reason it's hard to get both the end of the wire and the connector hot enough to create a good, solid joint. Kind of frustrating
    Last edited by seanycool; 04-17-2021 at 01:08 PM.
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  14. #54
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2021
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    Way to play the long game! I enjoyed seeing your progress.

    As far as soldering, I like to put some rubber bands around the handle of my needle nose and hold the connector with that. Then I can just rest my hand on the pliers and the connector doesn’t move. As long as your wire is tinned, you should be able to get the solder on the connector post liquid and then just dunk the wire in and remove the heat without moving the wire. That’s what I do anyways... the liquid solder on the connector will melt the wire solder, so you only have to worry about getting the one component hot.

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