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  1. #1
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    Drive tube with or without liner? Part 5734 Your opinion?

    Hi guys.

    Is it advisable to use the drive tube with the liner, or without? I'm using a 6s setup...

    My Spartan don't have one in.. but when I ordered this part as a spare...it came with a liner...

    My mind says use the liner?
    What's your opinion?

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    The easiest thing for you to do would be to use the nylon tube with your brass tube. That's how it comes from the factory. I'm thinking that you must of bought yourself a used Spartan. Also, not having a nylon tube in you drive tube could be another reason why your flex cable got hot.

    You can run your Spartan without the nylon tube, but you'll need to replace the nylon tube with a brass tube. This is how I run my Spartan. It's faster, but you got to do this mod right, or you'll have more problems than what it's worth. If you run a Spartan without a nylon tube (without either going to a smaller drive tube or replacing the nylon tube with a brass tube) you will develop hot spots in your drive assembly.

    Below is a picture of replacing a nylon tube with a brass tube.



    Below are the 3 separated modified parts you will need if you want to do this job right



    Below is the 3 modified parts properly fitted together to eliminate the need for a nylon tube. Doing this mod keeps your grease in place, and runs cooler and faster.



    Below is how everything looks finished.



    If you really want to do this, I don't mind helping you, but using the factory nylon tube is much easier for a beginning RC boat user.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 05-19-2020 at 11:07 AM.
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  3. #3
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    Hi.
    Yes please help with this Mod. I like to learn as much as possible. Also you mentioned this helps to keep your grease in place. Does that mean you can do more runs on a 6s setup and then replace grease vs taking everything apart and add grease after every single run?

    Also. Whilst using the nylon liner, do I add grease to the outside thereof or do I just slide it into the brass tube as it came?
    Last edited by cooleocool; 05-23-2020 at 01:05 AM. Reason: merge

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Degald View Post
    Hi.
    Yes please help with this Mod. I like to learn as much as possible. Also you mentioned this helps to keep your grease in place. Does that mean you can do more runs on a 6s setup and then replace grease vs taking everything apart and add grease after every single run?
    What I do is, I grease after every run, but use 9000mah batteries rather than the 5000mah batteries. This mod lets me do that.

    Quote Originally Posted by Degald View Post
    Also. Whilst using the nylon liner, do I add grease to the outside thereof or do I just slide it into the brass tube as it came?
    You slide it in dry, then grease your flex cable and slide it into the nylon tube.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 05-23-2020 at 01:04 AM. Reason: merge + removed inappropriate joke
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  5. #5
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    Ok Thnx. So please help me with how to do this Mod.

    I'm keen to get this done on my Spartan...and I've bought a new M41 as well

    Also another question...
    We struggle to get our hands on high Amp Batts for example 8000 or 9000. Can I use example 4 x 4000s.... Connect 2 in parralel with a parallel connection and then runs to the series connection to create the 6s setup but with 8000s sitting on each side....?
    Last edited by cooleocool; 05-23-2020 at 01:04 AM. Reason: merge

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    1). You can (I've tried that myself), but you loose your ability to use your batteries to adjust how your Spartan sets in the water. Also, the less connectors and the less wire length you have, the less heat you'll produce in your motor and ESC. But, you can do it.

    2). If you want to do the above mod, the first step you'll need to do is to get your Spartan setup in a stock configuration, and have it running right. You need to do this, so that you know and establish a baseline norm. After you do this, I'll tell you what tools you will need. From there, I'll help you go though the mod.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    1)

    2). If you want to do the above mod, the first step you'll need to do is to get your Spartan setup in a stock configuration, and have it running right. You need to do this, so that you know and establish a baseline norm. After you do this, I'll tell you what tools you will need. From there, I'll help you go though the mod.
    HI, I have already got my Spartan in stock configuration now sorted the past 2 days. Im happy to continue with the Mod..if you willing...Let's go

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Cool, I'll get you a list of tools you'll need.
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  9. #9
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    Hi.

    Ready when you are.
    Keen to start this Mod.

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Okay, I'll get some pictures together for what tools you'll need.
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  11. #11
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    Hi.

    Ready when you are...cant wait to start this mod

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Degald View Post
    Hi.

    Ready when you are...cant wait to start this mod
    You and me both lol.

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Hear are the tools you'll need. In this first picture you have to have soldering tools like this (on the left), or you can use a soldering torch. A soldering gun won't cut it due to its' clumsiness.



    The second thing you have to have is a drill press. You can't use a hand drill, because you have to be able to set your drilling depth. If you try a hand drill, you won't be able to stop the drill exactly where you need.



    The next tool you have to have is a very good set of drill bits, because you will need to bit-by-bit increase the bore of your strut hole to ensure the proper fit of your brass tube into your strut. If you try to bore out to much of the strut's hole at a time, you will ruin its' brass bushing. The belt sander isn't a must, but it does make custom fitting all your fabricated parts fit a lot easier.



    Once you have these, and any other hand tools that you are comfortable with using, you're ready to get started. I did find the post I did on this mod, and here it is. If you all have any questions, feel free to let me know. I have other pictures on file that can help you.

    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...er-Replacement
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 05-28-2020 at 04:04 AM.
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  14. #14
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    Hi. Great stuff. I have access to all those tools.

    Could you pls provide me with a step by step guide of how to begin?

    Also how does one bend the 1/4 the right amount....

    And just to confirm..the inner brass tube goes all the way into the drive strut...and the 1/4 one is similar length to the original Traxxas one?

    Also...can't I use the standard Traxxas drive tube...and then the 3/16 brass for the inner...that goes all the way into the drive strut?
    Last edited by cooleocool; 06-06-2020 at 01:00 AM. Reason: merge

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Degald View Post
    Hi. Great stuff. I have access to all those tools.

    Could you pls provide me with a step by step guide of how to begin?

    Also how does one bend the 1/4 the right amount....

    And just to confirm..the inner brass tube goes all the way into the drive strut...and the 1/4 one is similar length to the original Traxxas one?
    This post answers your questions. You'll need to read it carefully.

    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...er-Replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by Degald View Post
    Also...can't I use the standard Traxxas drive tube...and then the 3/16 brass for the inner...that goes all the way into the drive strut?
    Again, the link I gave you answers your questions.

    Also how does one bend the 1/4 the right amount....
    You heat up the area you want to bend with a torch until red, immediately cool it off in water, and then bend it by hand or with a 1/4 inch pipe bender. I've done it both ways. The key, though, is to heat it up red, and cool it off fast.

    When you get ready to solder your 3/16 brass tube to your strut let me know. First, though, read the heck out of the link I gave you.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rain Dawg View Post
    Thanks for posting on the drive tubes but I'm still lost on do you slide both tubes together the full length and then heat and bend and if not how does the inserted one go all the way with the bend.
    Keep in mind I'm 59 in July going on 5 mentally so I needs a detailed explanation for my brain capacity lol.
    Thanks.
    You only need to bend the 1/4 inch tube. When finished, it should be an exact duplicate of the stock tube. If the Traxxas stock tube was a true 1/4 inch tube, the making of a 1/4 inch tube wouldn't be necessary. Once this 1/4 inch tube is made (on the motor end) you will need to solder in two smaller tubes 3/16 and 7/32 into the motor end of the tube.

    The 3/16 needs to be soldered into the 7/32 and then the 7/32 (which now contains a 3/16) will need to be soldered into your newly made 1/4 inch tube. You will want the 3/16 and 7/32 tube assembly to go into the motor side of the 1/4 inch tube...1/4 of inch deep. When done your 1/4 inch tube will look like the tube on the far right.



    Then you'll take another piece of 3/16 inch tube, and solder it onto your strut. You need to drill out 1/4 of an inch out of the end of your strut the diameter of your 3/16 inch tube. Once done, it will look like the center tube in the above picture.

    Also, this tube needs to be cut to the length to where it just comes into contact with the other 3/16 inch tube you installed into the motor side of your 1/4 inch tube. And, where your strut-to-hull gap is correct. Examples below:





    Your strut/3/16 tube assembly does not need to be bent, because you are sliding a 3/16 tube into a 1/4 inch tube, and there is plenty of room in there for that to happen without having to bend the 3/16 inch tube.

    The reason why all this is needed is because you need the 1/4 inch tube, so that it can work with the Traxxas electronics tray. And, you need the 3/16 inch tube, because you are replacing the nylon tube.

    And, the reason why you are using a small piece 7/32 inch in between the 3/16 and 1/4 tube on the motor side of the 1/4 inch tube is for the proper alinement of your flex cable going into your Spartan's motor. If you didn't do this, the motor side of you 1/4 inch tube would look like this:



    Rather than this:



    Clear as mud right? (lol)
    Last edited by cooleocool; 06-06-2020 at 01:01 AM. Reason: merge
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  16. #16
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    Clear as mud sort of lol. I recall another thread you had or in another post don't recall which, you had used airplane cable (again I think) to up size your cable diameter. Is this still the same brass tube diameters you had used for the stock setup or do you change when you use a larger diameter cable?

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