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  1. #1
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    Light's Scale Build Log

    Going to keep this thread as a build log. Please let me know if you guys have any other suggestions on scale parts to add.

    Installed:
    Traxxas Black Chrome Chassis
    Vitavon upper and lower aluminum front control arms
    Vitavon steering knuckles
    Vitavon aluminum trailing arms
    AllRacing aluminum servo linkage
    Fox Shock Caps
    Savox SV-1271SG high voltage servo
    CC BEC at 7.4V
    Traxxas window nets
    Traxxas lighting
    Stainless steel screw set
    Hot Racing limiting straps
    Ampro radiator mod with functional fans
    Traxxas rear diff
    Hot Racing motor fan and heat sink
    Side view mirrors
    Traxxas aluminum chassis panels
    Capo bump stops
    GRC aluminum disc brakes and calipers
    GPM aluminum steering turn buckles
    Painted Details


    Planned:
    Functional rear remote reservoirs
    Vitavon Aluminum rear axle
    Vitavon Aluminum planetary housing
    AllRacing aluminum sway bar linkages
    Vitavon front bulkhead
    Vitavon transmission










  2. #2
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    That looks fantastic! Newb question but is the chrome chassis still plastic? I'm assuming it is. Also how are the bump stops, worth it? Bolt right up?

  3. #3
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    Yeah, your build really makes me want to buy the chrome chassis pieces.

    It'd be great if you could post some detail on how you mounted those bump stops. I'd love to see how you did it, so that I can copy you of course...

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by TOMBONOMBONA View Post
    That looks fantastic! Newb question but is the chrome chassis still plastic? I'm assuming it is. Also how are the bump stops, worth it? Bolt right up?
    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    Yeah, your build really makes me want to buy the chrome chassis pieces.

    It'd be great if you could post some detail on how you mounted those bump stops. I'd love to see how you did it, so that I can copy you of course...
    Thanks for the compliments. To answer your questions, the tube chassis is still plastic although the finish is fantastic and hard to tell unless you touch it and feel the flex of the plastic. The only downside is that it does scratch some what easily. If wanting to do a scale build and avoid scratching it, I would recommend padding the inside of the body somehow. Wherever the body rubs the frame, you'll see the finish slightly worn off. I may PlastiDip the entire inside of my body white. PlastiDip is somewhat soft and may work. If not, it'll have to be foam. Overall it's worth the cost if you are going for a scale build. The only downside is that the finish didn't match perfectly between every piece, I assume because they coat them in different batches. And Traxxas should have a complete kit for the black chrome parts instead of just individual pieces. I would rate it 4 out of 5 on difficulty to install. I had the stainless screw set which I think made it a little easier cause I didn't have to worry about reusing screws. That would have been a nightmare.

    As for the bump stops, I was surprised how well they worked.. They are meant for the 1/8 CAPO Jeep. I've never heard of that brand, and I found them on eBay when just looking for scale parts. I figured I would give it a shot and they are really well built. The springrate is perfect for the weight of the truck.

    To mount them I had to drill out the holes on the flanges of the bump stops. They are meant to be installed with 2mm nuts and bolts. I wanted to use the 2.5mm screws that are most common on the UDR. After the holes were enlarged, I used a plastic steering linkage (left over from switching out to steel) and cut 14.2 mm sections out of them (they are painted silver in the picture above). This gave the perfect angle on the bump stops. One flange on the bump stop was used with a button head screw (replaces the fender washer screw) to connect to the top limit strap location. The flange of the bump stop worked as a washer to hold the limit strap shackle on. The other bump stop flange was connected to the battery box with the 14.2 mm rod made from the steering linkage. I drilled out the rod at about 2mm then used a 2.5mm screw to tap it for threads. A button head screw connects through the battery box (have to drill a small hole) to the top of the rod and a second button head screw connects to the bottom of the rod through the flange. I was astonished when done because it actually made the rear end more rigid and it lines up perfectly to be functional.

    I've sent a request to Arthur at Vitavon racing; I'm going to see if he can make a custom rear axle that has a large flat spot for the bump stock to impact. If not, it still works great and contacts the center of the axle.

    Sorry for the long post, it sounds way harder than it actually is.
    Last edited by Light1984; 05-25-2020 at 09:58 PM.

  5. #5
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    Ok here's a picture, I forgot I also had to file down the mounting sleeve so I could get one screw to pass it to go through the flange.



    AllRacing sway linkage installed

    Last edited by Light1984; 05-25-2020 at 10:07 PM.

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    Looks great! When is the run video coming? As for Capo, they build incredibly scale stuff, that if you have to ask how much, you can't afford it material. Perhaps clear packing tape on the chassis as an "insulator" for rub marks.

  7. #7
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    Will do a video at some point, my brother has a decent drone so I should be able to get some cool shots. Still waiting on some more parts. Good idea on the packing tape, maybe foam packing tape or something. I'll have to look into it

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the detail on the bump stop installation. Your UDR is probably the nicest one I've seen.

    Based on your advice, I'll probably buy those Capo bump stops, but I'll be avoiding the chrome chassis pieces. Since the finish is easily removable by scratches and nicks, they'd make me never want to drive my UDR for fear of ruining the finish.

    Once again, nice work. I'd say keep it up, but I can't imagine what else can be done to your UDR.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen View Post
    Thanks for the detail on the bump stop installation. Your UDR is probably the nicest one I've seen.

    Based on your advice, I'll probably buy those Capo bump stops, but I'll be avoiding the chrome chassis pieces. Since the finish is easily removable by scratches and nicks, they'd make me never want to drive my UDR for fear of ruining the finish.

    Once again, nice work. I'd say keep it up, but I can't imagine what else can be done to your UDR.
    Thanks! Yea I was surprised how easily the finish comes off on the black chrome. Thankfully the plastic underneath is dark grey so it doesn't stick out too bad. But for the cost of the upgrade, it should be a little more hardy. Let me know how your bump stops turn out.

  10. #10
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    Truck looks amazing.....can't wait to see what else you can do!

  11. #11
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    The Vitavon aluminum rear axle is in and upgraded with a differential in an aluminum housing. I also had the crazy idea of creating the roll cage out of metal. I don't think hand welding one would come out particularly impressive or precise. So I reached out to Traxxas to see if they would share their CAD file for the roll cage so that I can potentially have it 3D printed in steel or titanium (if price isn't astronomical...). Of course Traxxas told me to pound sand, so on to SolidWorks I go...


  12. #12
    RC Qualifier MAC FAB's Avatar
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    Check IG, look up mojave450rider. Sean did a nice build, steel chassis......

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Light1984 View Post
    The Vitavon aluminum rear axle is in and upgraded with a differential in an aluminum housing. I also had the crazy idea of creating the roll cage out of metal. I don't think hand welding one would come out particularly impressive or precise. So I reached out to Traxxas to see if they would share their CAD file for the roll cage so that I can potentially have it 3D printed in steel or titanium (if price isn't astronomical...). Of course Traxxas told me to pound sand, so on to SolidWorks I go...

    You ACTUALLY thought Traxxas would release THAT? And Iíd like to see what kind of power you plan to put in that ďbrickĒ. Donít forget the vent holes in your tires when running in sand (if you havenít done it yet) because the sand buildup in the tires alone will stress the stock power system. Hopefully gearing will help if you use the stock power system. If not you might need aftermarket and 8S in an attempt to propel it
    Itíll look pretty. But will it actually run? If it does, it WILL handle magnificently. And anything it hits is completely destroyed. And the choice of shock oil and springs. And youíll have to lug that ďbrickĒ back to your vehicle when the battery dies. Keep it close to the vehicle
    Sorry. Thatís the problems I see ahead for you. And the budget...
    One last thing. Keep the spectators behind you. If the ďbrickĒ comes at you it needs to destroy you before it destroys them. And tell them to run...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbestfromclovis View Post
    You ACTUALLY thought Traxxas would release THAT? And Iíd like to see what kind of power you plan to put in that ďbrickĒ. Donít forget the vent holes in your tires when running in sand (if you havenít done it yet) because the sand buildup in the tires alone will stress the stock power system. Hopefully gearing will help if you use the stock power system. If not you might need aftermarket and 8S in an attempt to propel it
    Itíll look pretty. But will it actually run? If it does, it WILL handle magnificently. And anything it hits is completely destroyed. And the choice of shock oil and springs. And youíll have to lug that ďbrickĒ back to your vehicle when the battery dies. Keep it close to the vehicle
    Sorry. Thatís the problems I see ahead for you. And the budget...
    One last thing. Keep the spectators behind you. If the ďbrickĒ comes at you it needs to destroy you before it destroys them. And tell them to run...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    Lol, where do I even start... No I didn't think Traxxas would help me out, but it doesn't hurt to ask. I'm not a basher and I don't plan on hitting anything or launching into orbit. Some of the videos I watch of what people do to this truck blows my mind.

    Since I can do 50 mph on 6S stock, I'm pretty sure I'll be fine with a metal cage on stock gearing. I currently only run 4S and it's plenty fast. After all, as the title implies this is a scale build. And the speed should be scale as well. 50 mph at 1/7th scale is 350 mph in 1/1 scale, i.e. ridiculous.

    So far, it hasn't slowed down noticeably with all the aluminum I've added. Thanks for the tip on the tires, I've read that but haven't done it yet. I don't run on sand, but if I ever do I'll plug then up.

  15. #15
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    Someone who thinks like me. Iíd rather enjoy trail running then doing only donuts and power slides and finding every way to make it tumble. Iím a fan of desert racing. Not stunt driving. If I want to stunt driving Iíll get an E Revo. I run 4S also and I would still run the E Revo on 4S. 70mph+ in a smaller truck is also damaging. Even more so.
    Iíd rather slow down and enjoy the real physics then put on all that metal and take my chances and go ballistic. I think I wasted my money on the Traxxas aluminum rear links because Iím never going to push the limits of my UDR
    I think your project is amazing. But Iím a nerd and thatís what I saw. And Iím an experienced RC racer myself and I hate the traction rolls and catching edge and barrel rolling. Itís doesnít happen on training mode at 15mph+. And I now have my custom painted body that I would prefer to avoid the rolls


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  16. #16
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    I don't even own a UDR yet this build makes me want to get one so bad! The only thing stopping me is they are out of stock everywhere! haha But I already have the pre approval from my wife and she's okay with the future purchase. I like scale driving as well, I have more fun seeing a truck run and suspension articulation than full sending it and then breaking something lol.
    I've been into crawlers but in my area, there is more open desert land than rocks. I actually almost sold my TRX6 but decided I'll keep her and she'll become my shelf queen lol
    Very nice build and will definitely be following this!!

  17. #17
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    Final received my tie down straps and snapped some pictures with the wheels off.




    Last edited by Light1984; 08-14-2020 at 07:24 PM.

  18. #18
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    Sick!!!, the black chrome chassis did the job, looks great. I wasn't not sure about that chassis with just a black chrome on plastic, but it really looks great though.
    Is there a black chrome chassis in a complete set? I looked around and found in separate parts.

  19. #19
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    Hey man, I noticed on your front upper suspension mounts, the "tin" plates seem to bolt to the cage.

    The stock mounts don't have that option and it doesn't look like the black chrome mounts do either. Is that some more custom magic you put into this?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by deeph46 View Post
    Sick!!!, the black chrome chassis did the job, looks great. I wasn't not sure about that chassis with just a black chrome on plastic, but it really looks great though.
    Is there a black chrome chassis in a complete set? I looked around and found in separate parts.
    Unfortunately there is not, I went to the Traxxas website and searched for black chrome in the udr parts section, got the part numbers, then found them cheaper elsewhere.

    Quote Originally Posted by Fallen
    Hey man, I noticed on your front upper suspension mounts, the "tin" plates seem to bolt to the cage.

    The stock mounts don't have that option and it doesn't look like the black chrome mounts do either. Is that some more custom magic you put into this?
    Both the stock chassis and the black chrome have a plastic filler between the cage pieces in the front, and the aluminum Traxxas kits includes self tapping screws to mount the inner fender plates. The self tapping screws go through the plastic plates. I also put epoxy on the screw on the inside after it passed through so it wouldn't back out from vibration
    Last edited by Light1984; 08-31-2020 at 09:09 AM.

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