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  1. #1
    RC poster Cigano's Avatar
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    Pinion trouble .😩

    Guys any advice on how to keep the pinion grub screw from coming loose on an Xmaxx !?
    Recently changed to 50t spur and 20t pinion and since the every third run it’s coming loose !
    Today it came loose with the Permatex Red Threadlocker Nut Bolt Thread Lock Sealer - High Strength, so i’ve just now tightened it up trying it with Loctite 271 high strength you have to let it cure for 24 hours..... after that I’m gonna be totally lost !😩🤷🏻*♂️

  2. #2
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    This is a common problem

    Sometimes it can take a few times to really stick on there
    Each time it happens heat it an run the set screw through before loctite again
    fabricator

  3. #3
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    Make sure you clean the flat spot on the motor where the pinion goes, before applying more loctite.

  4. #4
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    As mates says, try several times, and clean the thread locker every time you reinstall.

  5. #5
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    A little blue loctite on the shaft helps also. Just remember to apply a little heat when removing.

    Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier Flux Capacitor's Avatar
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    Here is what I did after repeated pinion failures using Red Loctite®. The Loctite® of Henkel (acquired 1997) is not the same Loctite® formula (Loctite Corporation®) of the 60's~70's and today's Loctite is garbage; thanks to a Fortune 500 German Company.

    Now I have to admit when I did this, I was like this is never going to work and it looks ridiculous. Well........two weeks later, and that heavy duty zip tie has not let the pinion move and I am now the one laughing at ridiculous! There is not one drop of Loctite® on my pinion grub, motor shaft or pinion hole.

    The trick is to find a little bit longer grub screw than the stock one, that way when you fasten the zip tie down on it, it bites into the head of the grub and won't come off and it won't let it back out either. The stock pinion grub comes just about flush with the pinions surface and wasn't allowing my idea to work; so I got a longer grub and problem solved!

    Full throttle gusto a couple of times and it still did not come off. You may have to remove the little plastic guard at the bottom of the spur in order for the zip tie to clear it; but at least the main guard housing still fits back over the pinion and spur without rubbing the zip tie.

    Here is what it looks like:


    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 05-26-2020 at 05:18 PM.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    Here is what I did after repeated pinion failures using Red Loctite®. The Loctite® of Henkel (acquired 1997) is not the same Loctite® formula (Loctite Corporation®) of the 60's~70's and today's Loctite is garbage; thanks to a Fortune 500 German Company.

    Now I have to admit when I did this, I was like this is never going to work and it looks ridiculous. Well........two weeks later, and that heavy duty zip tie has not let the pinion move and I am now the one laughing at ridiculous! There is not one drop of Loctite® on my pinion grub, motor shaft or pinion hole.

    The trick is to find a little bit longer grub screw than the stock one, that way when you fasten the zip tie down on it, it bites into the head of the grub and won't come off and it won't let it back out either. The stock pinion grub comes just about flush with the pinions surface and wasn't allowing my idea to work; so I got a longer grub and problem solved!

    Full throttle gusto a couple of times and it still did not come off. You may have to remove the little plastic guard at the bottom of the spur in order for the zip tie to clear it; but at least the main guard housing still fits back over the pinion and spur without rubbing the zip tie.

    Here is what it looks like:


    Interesting trick

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier Flux Capacitor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juanmacine View Post
    Interesting trick

    The thing is, I have been using Loctite® for almost thirty years and am well aware of how to prep the two pieces to be joined. It was already mentioned that heat (preferably flame) is one way to re-prep two surfaces that have previously been joined with Loctite® in order to clean the surfaces of any left over residual Loctite® and to remove possible grease which is the number one killer of Loctite's® abilities to join two metals.

    I prepped that pinion, grub and shaft immaculately, and still the Loctite® of today's formula failed after a 36 hour cure time. Loctite® use to be able to withstand shock loads and vibration and today's Loctite® can barely withstand vibration alone.

    Another thing to consider, is the possibility that because the grub screw and pinion are two different types of coated metal, that the Loctite® of today does not have the ability to adhere metals of two different types like it use to be able to; especially coated metals.

    The grub is black oxide coated whereas the pinion is what appears to be a braised coated form of chrome alloy but probably just a raw form of one metal alone.

    A shot in the dark, and I'm willing to bet it would work, is to soak the black oxide coated grub in sulfuric acid to prep it for adhesion with Loctite® to something like our pinions that are of a different metal.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 05-27-2020 at 10:44 AM.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    Here is what I did after repeated pinion failures using Red Loctite®. The Loctite® of Henkel (acquired 1997) is not the same Loctite® formula (Loctite Corporation®) of the 60's~70's and today's Loctite is garbage; thanks to a Fortune 500 German Company.

    Now I have to admit when I did this, I was like this is never going to work and it looks ridiculous. Well........two weeks later, and that heavy duty zip tie has not let the pinion move and I am now the one laughing at ridiculous! There is not one drop of Loctite® on my pinion grub, motor shaft or pinion hole.

    The trick is to find a little bit longer grub screw than the stock one, that way when you fasten the zip tie down on it, it bites into the head of the grub and won't come off and it won't let it back out either. The stock pinion grub comes just about flush with the pinions surface and wasn't allowing my idea to work; so I got a longer grub and problem solved!

    Full throttle gusto a couple of times and it still did not come off. You may have to remove the little plastic guard at the bottom of the spur in order for the zip tie to clear it; but at least the main guard housing still fits back over the pinion and spur without rubbing the zip tie.

    Here is what it looks like:


    thats an interesting Idea I was thinking finding a slightly small grub screw and another that actually screws in reverse - just like servo saver locking on the Kraton 8S so the outer grub screw secures the inner ... havent found any solution yet though

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier Flux Capacitor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by r4nd0m View Post
    thats an interesting Idea I was thinking finding a slightly small grub screw and another that actually screws in reverse - just like servo saver locking on the Kraton 8S so the outer grub screw secures the inner ... havent found any solution yet though
    What they really need to do, is the last quarter inch of the motor shaft should be square and the pinions square hole tolerance should be so precise that if you didn't put it on exactly straight, it wouldn't go on and you would have to back it up and align it again. Kind of like trying to slide a ringed piston into a bore.

    Then if they were made like that, you wouldn't have to worry about using a lot of Loctite® at all because the shock load would be next to zero and the Loctite® might actually have a chance in that scenario.

    I was messing around using various strengths of Loctite® today with grub screws on the Traxxas CV's. I found that if you put the high strength Loctite® (today's current version) on the grub and then heat the end of your hex tool till it is just glowing and then screw the grub in; in about 5 minutes it cures (not 24 hours) when the grub cools down from the heat transfer from the hex tool.

    It set up solid like that and I couldn't remove the grubs unless reapplying heat (a lot of heat) to the grub from the heated tool.

    That is the way I remember Loctite® working without heat as a cure method. No where in any of their data sheets of Loctite® today does it say to use heat to set the bond - it just says heat is needed to remove fasteners when high strength is used.

    Now the Loctite® I have from 70's, doesn't require heat to cure the bond like the newer Loctite® I was using today and it sets up within a half hour. Funny thing is, that bottle of Loctite® I have from the 70's is about 42 years old (It was my old mans bottle of Loctite®) and the Loctite® is suppose to only have a shelf life of so many months, and yet, it works better than today's Loctite®. That should tell you right there, they don't make anything like they use to.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 05-27-2020 at 03:04 PM.
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  11. #11
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    and another attempt - this time studlock ... have tried blue and red loctite so far and only got like 5 minutes each run ... lets see what tomorrow brings (again ...) I wish they had a similar system like Arrma on the K8S where the pinion slots into place similar to what @Fulx_Capacitor suggests and is kept in place by a c/e clip to make it even more secure

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by r4nd0m View Post
    and another attempt - this time studlock ... have tried blue and red loctite so far and only got like 5 minutes each run ... lets see what tomorrow brings (again ...) I wish they had a similar system like Arrma on the K8S where the pinion slots into place similar to what @Fulx_Capacitor suggests and is kept in place by a c/e clip to make it even more secure
    I wonder if you have some binding issues and its creating enough heat to melt the loctite allowing the grub screw to back out.
    Last edited by Maxxovrdrve; 06-02-2020 at 07:37 PM.

  13. #13
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    I cleaned my parts with acetone and used super glue.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larebow View Post
    I cleaned my parts with acetone and used super glue.
    Good option.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larebow View Post
    I cleaned my parts with acetone and used super glue.
    I used alcohol, acetone - changed my loctite and studlock (thinking they were potentially out but they werent, used an old pinion to check - worked fine - no binding issues (pinion doesnt heat up) ... will see when I get a chanceto run it next if it has changed

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by r4nd0m View Post
    I used alcohol, acetone - changed my loctite and studlock (thinking they were potentially out but they werent, used an old pinion to check - worked fine - no binding issues (pinion doesnt heat up) ... will see when I get a chanceto run it next if it has changed
    I hope this works definitely for you.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juanmacine View Post
    I hope this works definitely for you.
    just finally got round to test it and so far first full pack through the truck - with the 18/50 I GPS'ed it @44mph(non traxxas), telemetry showing 43mph then 182mph ... I wish there was an option to completely disable the calculated mph

  18. #18
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    Hi, I’m looking for an 18t or 19t pinion for x-maxx GDS or any other brand that won’t strip. I also want to know how well that meshes and how well it works for off reading and jumps. Thank you!

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by JopRC7 View Post
    Hi, I’m looking for an 18t or 19t pinion for x-maxx GDS or any other brand that won’t strip. I also want to know how well that meshes and how well it works for off reading and jumps. Thank you!
    Hi mate, here are:

    18T.
    https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...acat=0&_sop=15

    19T.
    https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...inion+18T+mod1

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by JopRC7 View Post
    Hi, I’m looking for an 18t or 19t pinion for x-maxx GDS or any other brand that won’t strip. I also want to know how well that meshes and how well it works for off reading and jumps. Thank you!
    I meant off reading not off reading haha

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by JopRC7 View Post
    I meant off reading not off reading haha
    You can adjust the mesh manually, without pin system, is better.

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