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  1. #1
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    Tested Spartan-2 issues. Need advise or opinions?

    So I tested my Spartan with cooling mods. Great fun.

    2 problems though....
    1. I Checked the boat and temps. So brought it in...took it out and saw some water in the hull. So I flipped the boat to drain the boat and when I placed it back in the water it was dead...didn't run... didn't do anything. I reset the boat disconnecting the Batteries and switched on the transmitter. Everything worked then fine thereafter...is this a failsafe type of thing where the if the boats flips the ESC switch off?

    2. The hull gather a lot of water...it's not coming from the cover...I checked and iinstalled rubber lining...it's not from the. Motor rubber cooler. As I silcone the inlets. I guess is the rubber where the drive shaft goes through...as if you leave the boat on the stand...water drips out from there...anyone got some input on this and how to stop water coming in the hull?
    Last edited by Degald; 05-31-2020 at 03:56 PM.

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    You could have a leaky heatsink, a brass tube grommet leak, motor jacket leak, or a leak in any of the holes you had to do for your duel (in you case triple) cooling mod. When I test for leaks after a mod, I test my lines out with a water filled fuel bottle with a hose on it. I put it on each water inlet, squeeze, and look for leaks in my cooling lines. If no leaks, I then put my boat into my bath tube, and check for hull leaks. If any, I dry everything, powder the inside, and back in the tub it goes. Any leaks will be clearly seen by disturbing the powder at the leak point.

    P.S. Your boat's motor will run with your boat upside down. If your boat flips over in water it will take in a lot of water fast. It won't sink, because it has Styrofoam in the front end. The only way (at least one of the ways) to keep your boat from taking in a lot of water during a flip is to do something like this.







    P.S.S. Something else that might be leaking is the back of the boat. If you stop and slow up a lot, water can get in through the back of the hatch. You can buy a shield to minimize this problem. It looks like this.



    The other thing you can do is seal up the back of the Spartan's hatch like this.



    If you look close, you can see that my Spartan's rear hatch fins have been filled with clear silicon. That way, water can't come in though there when I slow up or stop fast.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 05-31-2020 at 04:37 PM.
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  3. #3
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    Thnx. I did pressure test my coolers prior installation.
    I'll pressure test my whole system in the bath with a syringe.

    As well as check the hull leaks as well. I get a feeling majority is the rubber part where the drive shaft runs through...water inside drips there our of..so water must surely get in that way...

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Degald View Post
    Thnx. I did pressure test my coolers prior installation.
    I'll pressure test my whole system in the bath with a syringe.

    As well as check the hull leaks as well. I get a feeling majority is the rubber part where the drive shaft runs through...water inside drips there our of..so water must surely get in that way...
    I pull my rubber grommet when my shaft is out about every 5 runs and put Green Slime (or marine grease) on it evertime and mine has never leaked since. My bet is you do the same and your good to go.

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    Thnx a lot guys.

    I still wonder why did my boat "stop" working after I flipped it over to drain the water...I had to disconnect the Batteries and reconnect again...then it was fine...was really strange...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Degald View Post
    Thnx a lot guys.

    I still wonder why did my boat "stop" working after I flipped it over to drain the water...I had to disconnect the Batteries and reconnect again...then it was fine...was really strange...
    Not sure what to tell you, I've never had it happen but the only thing that comes to mind is maybe when you tipped it over, water ran into the battery connection and maybe a fail safe shut it off because it shorted. If moisture can cause ground fault plugs to trip, maybe the esc's are equiped. Just guessing here.

  7. #7
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    So i found one major portion of my water inside the hull. Its the rubber where the drive shaft come through. See my video.

    So i decided to install it with marine silicone, ad hopefully that works. (I opted not to go for the silicone grease and redo it every few times, rather marine silicone, will see if this works and lasts). Also i have inserted small tubes sticking upwards from the holes at the back, as i guess back splash can seep through these holes....

    I did test my internal water system, and it doesn't look like there are leaks in that system, and it doesn't seem like water comes form the cooling jacket from the motor rubber cooler.



  8. #8
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    Question for Regular Guy....
    Why did you add a copper plate to the back of your Spartan?

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Degald View Post
    Question for Regular Guy....
    Why did you add a copper plate to the back of your Spartan?
    Easy question.

    A long time ago (back when you were just a little baby crumb snatcher), I smacked into a turtle with my Spartan. When I did it broke a small piece of my prop off. My boat was in the middle of the lake, so I gently brought it back into shore. This didn't help, though, because by the time I got my boat back on land the vibration had caused all my drive components to be melted to each other. Because of this, my whole brass drive tube had been spinning in my hull's grommet hole.

    This caused my hull's grommet hole to be badly misshapen. To fix it, I had to reshape my hull's grommet hole back to true, and make a brass plate to return the area back to factory spec's. I could of just bought a new hull, but I didn't want this to happen again, so I upgraded the area to brass.



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  10. #10
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    I have an issue with this part of my Spartan as well...look at the pic... this hole is not done properly....and water leaks through the rubber grommet....

    So I have to fix it someway that the grommet sits nice and snug...

    So my option is similar to your brass solution...yet I don't know how you get you soldering so neat and clean or I must epoxy a brass tube or a carbon tube...and Reem the hole again the right size....

  11. #11
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    Silicone doesn't work
    .. Is there any other sealent or glue I can use to glue that grommet so it sticks and seals at the same time?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Degald View Post
    Silicone doesn't work
    .. Is there any other sealent or glue I can use to glue that grommet so it sticks and seals at the same time?
    At least the Marine silicone from my local hardware store. It peels off from the plastic very easily. Is there another compound I can use or another type of silicon you might suggest?

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    I can only tell you what I would try...here goes. You probably are only off by a scoash hair, so I wouldn't do anything drastic. I'd use contact cement on your grommet-to-hull for my sealing the grommet. And, I'd go to that 1/4 inch brass tube for my drive tube. The reasons? I'm glad you asked.

    The reason for the contact cement, is because, it will seal your grommet to your hull, and any excess can be rubbed off your hull while leaving the connection between your grommet and hull intact. Plus, in the future (if need be) you can remove you grommet with out to much trouble.

    As far as the 1/4 inch brass tube? The 1/4 inch brass tube is just a scoash hair bigger diameter than the Traxxas stock tube, so using it might be just enough scoash to stop your water leak (if it is indeed coming from that area). So, between using the contact cement and 1/4 inch brass tubing you have a really good chance (IMO) of stopping your leak, and these are the first things I'd try.

    P.S.
    Yet, I don't know how you get you soldering so neat and clean.
    Thank you for your kind words. It's no big secret. The trick is first cleaning all your surfaces, and using the right amount of heat.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 06-03-2020 at 03:21 PM.
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  14. #14
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    Thnx for the advise.

    I'm still keen to try and do the whole brass fitting...but I'll try the contact adhesive option as well.

    The other place where it leaks is as per pic. The water runs up the drive tube and out by the motor. This was seen with no grease on the cable...so I guess if I grease ready to run...it won't...yet after a while of running and the grease thins out...we might be back at a leak....

    So your brass driveshaft mod...might be the best to do....

    Our problem here is I don't get 35cm long 1/4 inch so easily.

  15. #15
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    My brass plate is not an easy thing to make and to get right. The contact cement and 1/4 inch brass tube is, plus, if it doesn't work you haven't lost anything, and you haven't lost a lot of time in trying it. Also, if it doesn't work you didn't have to permanently modify your boat to do it like you would for the brass plate.

    With the brass plate, once you modify your hull, there's no going back. If you don't get it right, you have to get a new hull. When I did my brass plate for my hull, my hull was useless, so I didn't have anything to lose. One last thing. If you are going to have a hard time getting a 1/4 inch brass tube, I got to believe you're going to have a hard time getting a 3/16 and a 7/32 inch brass tubes. If so, you might want to go to the "Off Shore Electronics" website, and see if they have a Spartan final drive that you would be happy with rather than you building your own.

    Again, one last thing, I see that you have the stock cooling jacket for Spartan's motor. I strongly suggest you dump it, and get an aluminum one. You can get them from Off Shore Electronics too. The stock cooling jacket WILL give you problems down the road, so I'd change it as soon as possible.

    Oh yeah, I almost forgot. It's normal to leak water up though your drive tube when you don't have any grease on your flex cable. Once you do lube up your flex cable you'll be good to go, and you will not have any leaks there...even after a full battery run.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 06-04-2020 at 04:44 AM.
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  16. #16
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    Hi.
    So far your advise worked very well. I did a test in the tub and no water leaking through the grommet or the shaft. This was now from glueing it with contact adhesive.

    I'm still keen to build the brass plate...I have the perfect plate and tube.

    I'll let you know how it all went....

    But first my next step is going to be to sort out my M41 with an ESC cooler and seperate pickup ups.

    I see the M41 forum is not as Active...
    @Regularguy. Do you have a M41 or only the Spartan?

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Nope, I have a Spartan, UR-19, and a BlackJack 29, but my Spartan has always been my go-to-boat.



    . . .
    Last edited by cooleocool; 06-07-2020 at 02:31 AM. Reason: Let's watch the sexual references.
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  18. #18
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    So I tested my Spartan...and can I just say...your were right...

    My Hull still gathers alot of water....and it's not through the grommet...

    When I rinsedy water lines afterwards...(syringe with clean water...and some pressure)

    Water came out of the water jacket on the motor....
    It leaked between the bottom and the motor...

    When water flows slower it runs smoothly...but the moment you give some pressure ( probably as you get on top speed) it streams out from the jacket...
    So now I have to see if I can get an ALU one shipped from OSE..


    Edited for language abuse. If you see a starred out word in your post, you must edit it out to avoid earning warning points.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 06-10-2020 at 01:22 AM.

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    I don't know why Traxxas uses that rubber motor jacket. Everyone seems to have problems with it sooner or later. Traxxas should do what Proboat does with their motors. Proboat motors come with a metal water cooling jacket as part of the motor assembly.

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  20. #20
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    I gave up on the water jackets and went to this home-made copper coil. It keeps my motor cooler then the jacket ever did and no leaks.


  21. #21
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    Please tell me how you made this...

    I'm struggling to get an aluminium purchased..as it's nowhere available in our country

  22. #22
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    The copper adds as a heat sink and cools faster with the added water running through it.
    Go to any place that sells this copper tubing, 5mm outside diameter. Take your motor out and start rolling the copper over the motor making sure you start at the back by the wires and continue until you get to the front.
    If you use larger diameter copper you stand the chance of it not fitting your motor mount.

    Just make sure of where you start and where you end up with the copper so the blue water tubing fits at the top at both ends like mine in the pic. You can roll it in your hands (clockwise one hand counter clockwise the other) to tighten the coils if needed.

    If your stuck for copper you could try aluminum, I have never used aluminum but others have. Let me know how it goes or if you need help.

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    I like it! You guys are getting to good. I'm starting to get jealous. (lol)
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  24. #24
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    I never understood why water jackets became a thing, as the older style (custom copper pictured in Rain's post) had done the job just fine with less chance of leakage.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    I have to say, I don't know which would cool better, but for sure you're not ever going to have a leak the old style way.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rain Dawg View Post
    I gave up on the water jackets and went to this home-made copper coil. It keeps my motor cooler then the jacket ever did and no leaks.

    That's excellently done. Wondering if I have any copper pipe lying around to try something similar. My rubber jacket isn't holding up too well any more either.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    I have to say, I don't know which would cool better, but for sure you're not ever going to have a leak the old style way.
    I'm sure jackets cool better. Or maybe they're just easier/cheaper to produce? I'll just stick with the old way, as it has never let me down.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  28. #28
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    My first original thought was that I would of totally agreed with you, because I would think that water directly touching a heat source would cool better than water indirectly touching a heat source. During my first original thought, though, I had pictured in my mind my properly sized aluminum cooling jacket verses Dawg's properly sized copper cooling coil.

    Then I got a picture in my mind of the Spartan's OEM rubber jacket, and Dawg's copper cooling coil. I think there's a very reasonable chance that Dawg's copper cooling coil might cool better than the Spatan's OEM's rubber cooling jacket.

    Yes, the Spatan's OEM rubber cooling jacket has direct water cooling (like my aluminum jacket), but Dawg's copper cooling coil is made of metal (which transfers heat better than rubber), and Dawg's copper cooling coil has almost three times more water coil turns than the Spatan's OEM rubber cooling jacket.

    I'd have to do some testing (to know 100%), but on the top of my head I'd say a properly sized aluminum cooling jacket would be the best cooling, second would be Dawgs' copper cooling coil, and lastly would be the Spartan's OEM rubber cooling jacket...even though my properly sized aluminum cooling jacket and the Spartan's OEM rubber cooling jacket both use direct water cooling, and Dawgs' copper cooling coil does not.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 06-14-2020 at 05:32 AM.
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  29. #29
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    The next time I'm out with the boat I'm going to take the teperature of the lake before I run and temp check the motor after a run just to see the difference.
    Although this kind of a test is not likely to be accurate, because of most of the lakes we run on are true mountain fed lakes with snow capped peaks above until late July or early Aug.

    Non the less it will be interesting to see the lake temp and motor temp to gauge how much heat is on the motor on a set of 6s batteries.
    I know I have recorded temps with the stock water jacket somewhere in my rc room lol.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rain Dawg View Post
    I'm going to take the teperature of the lake before I run and temp check the motor after a run just to see the difference. Although this kind of a test is not likely to be accurate, because of most of the lakes we run on are true mountain fed lakes with snow capped peaks above until late July or early Aug.
    Actually, this is the best way to test out RC cooling systems. Checking out and recording the water temps first, checking the motor/ESC temps after a run second, and then subtracting the two values gives you a much more accurate look at how well your cooling system is working then just checking the motor/ESC temps after a run.

    If we think of this for a second, I'd much rather have a water temp at 80 and have my motor/ESC running at 110 then a water temp at 0 and my motor/ESC running at 100 degrees, because I am running with a more efficient cooling system with the 115 scenario by 70 degrees.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 06-15-2020 at 04:33 AM.
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    The same thing happened to me multiple times and then it did the same thing once even after it dried out but then I unplugged everything and then plugged it back in and it was fine.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adam Dodson View Post
    The same thing happened to me multiple times and then it did the same thing once even after it dried out but then I unplugged everything and then plugged it back in and it was fine.
    What happened to you multiple times?
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  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adam Dodson View Post
    The same thing happened to me multiple times and then it did the same thing once even after it dried out but then I unplugged everything and then plugged it back in and it was fine.
    I think he refer to my Nr 1 in my original post...

  34. #34
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    Oh, I got-cha. He's talking about a NR1. Why didn't you guys say that in the first place...a NR1. What's a NR1?
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