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  1. #1
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    ESC Cooler -Need a new design?

    Hi.

    The standard ESC cooler as per Regular Guy on this forum doesn't work for a M41.
    @Regularguy. Could you assist with a new design....
    I need the same cooler for the Caps...but the square tubing need to move backward as it hits against the seats in the Hatch. Not much about 2 cm backward...can I just extend the plate...keep the cap cover up front and the square tubes where water flows through...to the back? Heat should still run along the copper plate to the back?

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Draw a picture of what you'd like to do, and let me take a look at it. Don't worry if it's ruff, I just need to get an idea of what you're talking about.
    Life's to short to be a sour puss.

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  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Option #2 would work as is, and Option #2 would work with just a small little change. I'll draw you a picture of it, and post it for you soon.
    Life's to short to be a sour puss.

  5. #5
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    Hi. I've checked again and option 2 won't fit either as it will bump against the plastic Hatch...Soni need something like Option 1...maybe square at the bottom and against the round parts and one on top

  6. #6
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    Here are pics of the issue...see the Caps are close to the Hatch...I cut open the hole to create clearance. I can go wider with the hole...(with about 2 cm)

    Forward is limited..but backward is open...I might be able to have something like Option 2 fit.


  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Looking at your boat drawing, it looks like your problem is that you don't have the room between your caps and "up" for a heatsink, so I'd work from the top of your caps "down" to the top of your ESC. You have plenty of room there. I'd do something like this:



    Looking at my drawing, under "Side Views," you could also configure your cooling tubes on the left and right side of you cap's heat plate rather than to the right side of your cap's heat plate. Or, you could configure both your cooling tubes on the left side of your cap's cooling plate rather than the right.

    The big thing here is, I think, is to work down towards your ESC rather than up. Your placement of your cooling tube will depend on how much room you have in front (or behind) your ESC. Due to your picture, I'm assuming (of course) that you have room on the left and right sides of your ESC. If not, your heat sink would have to be no longer than the length of both your ESC's caps.

    As far as making your cap's heat plate. I have an example of one that I made for my newest electronics for my Spartan. If you look close, you can see the plates soldered together (my heat plate is to the vey right of my thumb).





    In your case, once you made your heat plate, you would then drill two holes into it to fit over your caps. Then you would solder your heat plate to another brass plate (either "U" or "L" shaped). The "L" shape would be if you wanted both your cooling tubes to the left or right side of your cap's heating plate, and the "U" shape would be if you wanted each of your two cooling tubes on both sides of your cooling plate. From there, you'd add your cooling tubes.

    In closing: Looking at your hull photographs, if your hull actually touches the tops of you ESC caps, that shouldn't be a problem. The "U" or "L" plate that you solder your cap's cooling plate on to will be 20thousants of an inch thick (about the thickness of 3 pieces of paper). If this would be a problem, then I would consider cutting that hole bigger to allow the installation of a 20thousants of a inch brass plate. Once your heat sink was installed, it would then end up being flush to your hull (fitting inside your hull's bigger hole).
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 06-07-2020 at 04:37 AM.
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  8. #8
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    Hi. Thx very much for your advise. It's really helpful....
    Can I ask....could something like my option 2 also work? As it's like the normal cooler the tubes is just at the bottom...plus if they touch the round parts going over the Caps then I'm sure heat will get dispersed?

    Nonetheless...I'm gonna try build your suggestion...
    It's actually quite a few brass plates one has to solder...

    I'll start getting the materials together.

    Yet Thnx again for the help. So far your advise has led to great experiences with my Spartan

  9. #9
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    Another question...I see it's a Seaking in your pic...
    Why did you build extra cooling? Doesn't the standard cooling work on the Seaking?
    I bought one as well and contemplating putting in my M41...
    And keep the stock ESC as a spare for my Spartan...

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Yep, like I said back in Post #4, your Option #2 would work. My drawing was to give you a better working option than your Option #1.
    Life's to short to be a sour puss.

  11. #11
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    Thnx so much.

    Your help is much appreciated.
    I'll post my pics when I'm done...

  12. #12
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    Hey Degald just as a heads up, this esc cooler fits the M41 with no mods to the canopy and runs super cool as is. The plate is 1 1/2 inches long and I cut the water line tubes 1/2 inch long the tube over the caps has an inside diameter of 1/2 and needs a little sanding with the dremel to fit snug, hope this helps.



  13. #13
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    Ah man. Thnx. That is exactly what I had in mind building.
    I'm starting today with mine. Unfortunately I cut out a hole in my Hatch already...to see if this will work... nonetheless...I'm just gonna add some silicone to me seats to ensure water doesn't go through the whole...or I might patch it up after the Mod is installed

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Nice job Dawg!
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  15. #15
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    Here is mine. Need to clean and paint

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    Nice job Dawg!
    Only because of your mods, ReglarGuy.
    Thanks

    Degald it looks good and I'm sure it will keep the heat down just as mine does.

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Now, if I can just get you to move down here in my general area, life will be perfect! (lol)
    Life's to short to be a sour puss.

  18. #18
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    Lol I spent quite a bit of time in the Pikesville area and I'm somewhat familiar with Baltimore, in general if that helps.
    But in all reality your dollar is worth about 1.40 to ours so you could buy a lot more rc's if you moved here haha.

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    I don't know Dawg. It always seems like things are way more expensive up there when I'm up that way for my vacations...maybe it's the taxes that kicking me in the butt. Nice summer weather, though.
    Life's to short to be a sour puss.

  20. #20
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    Just to show how my cooler turned out


  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Your color choice and decal are a nice touch...pretty spiffy!
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  22. #22
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    This capacitor cooling mode is in everyone post here. Can somebody explain why you wanna cool down electronic components that DO NOT generate any heat? Apart from added weight it does nothing. Going forward I'm waiting for styrofoam cooler design.

  23. #23
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    The capacitors create heat when the charge up and rapidly discharge. Alot of esc failures are caused by the capacitors over heating and frying.

    Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

  24. #24
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    If you can run your Spartan on 6s without your ESC caps getting really, really hot...God bless you brother, because I can't do it. I have 3 boats, all of different types; a Spartan (Deep V), a Blackjack30 (Cat), and a UL-19 (Hydro). I run them all on 6s, and all need help keeping their ESC cap temps down to a reasonable level. Back when I use to run my Spartan without an ESC cooler, I'd hit 180 easy on my first run, and on my second run I'd hit 220 degrees. At those temps my ESC didn't last me a full season.

    When my ESC blew, it took my hull with it. Anyway, as a general rule, electronics last the longest when their temps are kept at 140 and under. Now all my boats run between 110 to 125 degrees. With my first Spartan, its' uncooled ESC lasted me about 8 months, and with my second Spartan its' cooled ESC lasted me a little over 8 years.

    Now, you can call me crazy...you can call me a rebel...and, you can even call me a wild man, but I'll take adding an ounce or two over a totally burned out boat any day. But, that's just me. I'm kind of a ReglarGuy that way.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 07-03-2020 at 05:21 PM.
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  25. #25
    RC Qualifier justin13703's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by k30dpc View Post
    This capacitor cooling mode is in everyone post here. Can somebody explain why you wanna cool down electronic components that DO NOT generate any heat? Apart from added weight it does nothing. Going forward I'm waiting for styrofoam cooler design.
    Capacitors absolutely generate heat. Especially during rapid charging/discharging. They’re basically like little batteries. They get hot when there’s power flowing to and from them.

  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    You're almost there my friend. Not to nit-pick or anything, but a capacitor in a AC circuit actually develops heat due to Impedance. Impedance (AC resistance) in a capacitor is caused by the internal capacitor's charging plates obstructing the change in polarity of an AC signal.

    This happens, because a capacitor's internal charging plate materials are naturally resistive to the change of polarity (frequency) of a AC signal. Other factors that cause Impedance in a cap is the size and thickness of a its' plates and dielectric in comparison to the AC frequency being applied to them...but, let's not get in to that.

    The trick for us (for the purpose of our RC ESC applications) is to select a cap/caps that offers the least amount Impedance to our ESC's AC spike frequency voltages, that are present on our ESC's incoming DC voltage. I think I can safely say, that you and I both know these spikes cause unwanted heat. Hopefully now, our bestest buddy K30 knows it too.
    Last edited by ReglarGuy; 07-05-2020 at 09:49 AM.
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  27. #27
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    I only run 6s on my traxxas collection, apart from nitro powered stuff.

    TBH it's the first time when I read something like this. Capacitors do generate heat when overvolted, even short voltage peaks sometimes called a noise can damage them. And all motors are a great source of noise. But our esc's caps aren't directly connected to motor so this shouldn't be the case.
    Also rapid charging/discharging can overheat them. This is due to charging current. But only time this happening is when we plug our lipos in. You can see/hear little spark. During normal operation this is not the case. Also they are small value capacitors so can't store a lot of energy which means there isn't any high current flowing through them during normal operation.

    All current needed for running the boat coming from lipos. Caps are only to 'stabilize' the voltage in burst moments. How many times you press full throttle when your boat is stopped during one run?

    The only parts of every motor speed controller (or electronic device at all) which truly generate heat are transistors and resistors, sometimes inductors. I never seen cooled capacitors in domestic/automotive use. Did you? If so please post some photo.

    IMHO your temp issues are from poor esc design. Caps most luckily getting warmed up by transistors, but so the rest of esc is. Adding any cooling system will as a result bring temps down. You can also make a copper/alloy/brass/silver esc body to make it better. Traxxas went cheaper way and made it of plastic. Hard to blame them but all in all... You get what you paid for... Somebody said that if you wanna get good rtr boat, you must pay 3 times more than spartan cost. Not 100% agree, but there is some true in this statement

    My spartan is only genuine traxxas if we talking about hull, electronic tray, receiver, sensors and surprisingly servo. It's second servo but this was what I had lying around after first one failed. All alloy hardware is aftermarket. Motor is bigger than standard so flexi shaft is. It was made to be used with dedicated alloy cooling jacket. As a speed controller I'm running marine esc in alloy case 8s capable. Dual rudder pickup, with 2 water circuits, separate for esc and motor. I would love to share brands and models but this forum isn't non US made products friendly.
    What failed on me in 5yers moderate to hard use? Well I went through servo, 3 shafts and countless propellers. Last time I bought standard size metal prop and it survived 5 weekends so already looks promising.

  28. #28
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    I forget to mention 2 sets of seals. But this are same crappy rubber as traxxas used for cvds etc so I call it consumables and replace every 2-3 years.

  29. #29
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    What does TBH stand for?
    Life's to short to be a sour puss.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    What does TBH stand for?
    To be honest


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Thank you kindly!
    Life's to short to be a sour puss.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReglarGuy View Post
    Thank you kindly!
    I have a question regarding esc. I’m a newbie to this stuff. Ran my boat yesterday and flipped it. Submerged the back half. Drained water out ran it and died. Everything is dry and I charged my lipos last night. Plug it in now and esc flashes red green fast. What happened or how can I can fix it? Thanks

  33. #33
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    You may have water in your receiver. Most people put their Rx in a bag of rice for a few days to absorb any moisture. What I do is take the Rx board out of its' black plastic case, blow everything all out with compressed air, and then put everything back together. It takes about 2 minutes rather than me having to wait two days for the rice to work.
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  34. #34
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    Yes you are right. I dried it out and now it seems to be ok. But the receiver is blinking red. Hit throttle on transmitter and nothing. ???

  35. #35
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. ReglarGuy's Avatar
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    Sounds like you lost your bind. Try re-binding your Rx to your Tx.
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  36. #36
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    MG Chemicals silicone conformal coating will solver your wet electronics problem.
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