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  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smashem77 View Post
    The x maxx on 6s is going to act this way 8s is much better self righting should work on 6s wouldn’t use it anyways I took out my rear diff pinion and ring gear self righting


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    I think I got self righting to work once on 6 S.

    Then I started reading on heat about blown diffs and I quit trying.


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  2. #42
    RC Qualifier Flux Capacitor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dmarzke View Post
    RPM makes a pin set for the outer ends of the arms that has a nut on the end.

    You get the flexibility of the RPM arms without popping the pins out.


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    Oh, that's right!

    I keep forgetting about that pin set offered by RPM that has the nut to keep it in place.
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  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dmarzke View Post
    RPM makes a pin set for the outer ends of the arms that has a nut on the end.

    You get the flexibility of the RPM arms without popping the pins out.


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    Do not use the rpm threaded hinge pins on the top a arm for steering knuckle. Otherwise you loose your some of your turning radius. As the steering knuckle will collide with the pin. I found this out the hard way and just replaced both upper front a-arms

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  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    Do not use the rpm threaded hinge pins on the top a arm for steering knuckle. Otherwise you loose your some of your turning radius. As the steering knuckle will collide with the pin. I found this out the hard way and just replaced both upper front a-arms

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    What if you drill a little wider on to the top pins where as the head of pin will set into the A-Arm that should fit in fine without the knuckle hitting the pin.


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  5. #45
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by noeymad View Post
    What if you drill a little wider on to the top pins where as the head of pin will set into the A-Arm that should fit in fine without the knuckle hitting the pin.


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    That may work,. But if Rpm a arm and it breaks doubt rpm will warranty it. On rpm instructions it does say hinge pins only for lower a arms.

    I would see it being a possible failure point if drilled out for the threaded hinge pin head. Head is 6mm dia. X 4mm long Arm is 11mm diameter x 15mm long . Pins are 4mm diameter.

    I've never had a issue with top a arm pins coming out at the wheel hubs. Only the lower a arm pins at hub.

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  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    Oh, that's right!

    I keep forgetting about that pin set offered by RPM that has the nut to keep it in place.
    I use washers in the stock retainig screws, it works for me.

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    Do not use the rpm threaded hinge pins on the top a arm for steering knuckle. Otherwise you loose your some of your turning radius. As the steering knuckle will collide with the pin. I found this out the hard way and just replaced both upper front a-arms

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    Good advice mate.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    It really makes me wonder lately about why these threads are popping up lately (not particularly this site) about models just bought within this past year that are reflecting under-powered assessments.
    i bought the orange version with the orange shocks etc. but i notice that my shell is bright neon orange compared to the burnt orange i see in other pics. would that have any relevancy on the model version?

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by varunaX View Post
    i bought the orange version with the orange shocks etc. but i notice that my shell is bright neon orange compared to the burnt orange i see in other pics. would that have any relevancy on the model version?
    It is just a monitor color or photo difference, the real color of the body shell is the one you have.

  10. #50
    RC Qualifier Flux Capacitor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by varunaX View Post
    i bought the orange version with the orange shocks etc. but i notice that my shell is bright neon orange compared to the burnt orange i see in other pics. would that have any relevancy on the model version?
    Only if you're trying to buy just the shocks or wheel hex nuts. I've never seen the orange shocks or wheel hex nuts offered on the Traxxas site since the Limited Edition Orange came out quite some time ago.

    Of course the Limited Edition Orange that I'm speaking of, is not the neon Orange one that is sold today. I can get everything else in orange such as the arms, steering links, and wheels; but when it comes to the shocks or wheel hex nuts, they are no where to be found as an OEM part offering.

    EDIT:

    Correction, I found that they offer the wheel hex nuts in orange.

    https://traxxas.com/products/parts/7758T

    Figures, they want $12 for four pieces of aluminum that wouldn't turn but 10 cents at a recycling plant.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 06-28-2020 at 01:42 PM.
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  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    You're Welcome.



    At some point the engineers felt that the slipper assembly needed to go and whether that was a good or bad idea, is just a matter of preference really. But by eliminating the slipper assembly, .
    Sorry maybe dumb ques, but are you saying there is no slipper on my xmaxx? No way to tighten it if I wanted more wheelies?

  12. #52
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by varunaX View Post
    Sorry maybe dumb ques, but are you saying there is no slipper on my xmaxx? No way to tighten it if I wanted more wheelies?
    8s xmaxx has a cush drive. Non adjustable. It does not have a slipper clutch. The older 6s version had a slipper clutch.



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  13. #53
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Op have you tried using you vlx6s ecs from erevo and see if xmaxx runs better? This I'll test if it is a esc issue.

    I talked about this on post #27 but alit of other chatter so may of missed it.

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  14. #54
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    I guess I could try. I have a mamba monster in my erevo tho.

    From hearing alot of others using 6s in the 8s ver, I believe what I am experiencing is as designed. I will just either gear up (also why is it impossible to find 50t spurs in stock anywhere?!) or shell out for some 4s Batts to satisfy my need for speed

  15. #55
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by varunaX View Post
    I guess I could try. I have a mamba monster in my erevo tho.

    From hearing alot of others using 6s in the 8s ver, I believe what I am experiencing is as designed. I will just either gear up (also why is it impossible to find 50t spurs in stock anywhere?!) or shell out for some 4s Batts to satisfy my need for speed
    It wouldn't matter what esc it is as long as different with same batteries. If did a quick swap of esc and just see how it runs. As it's 1 variables to cross off the list... As for vxl6s ecs been reports of bad esc... So perhaps it is also in the vxl8s as well? It's a process of elimination really.

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  16. #56
    RC Qualifier Flux Capacitor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by varunaX View Post
    Sorry maybe dumb ques, but are you saying there is no slipper on my xmaxx? No way to tighten it if I wanted more wheelies?
    That is correct, there is no slipper assembly in the 8S X-Maxx version because they went to a center differential (Torque-Biasing Center Drive) with Cush Drive as Acidic01 has pointed out. The center differential is the same as your front and rear differentials with the exception that the carrier piece with the spider gears is aluminum instead of plastic and instead of a ring gear, it just has a regular gear angle (output gear) like a motor pinion and spur mate.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 06-28-2020 at 10:36 PM. Reason: Spoofed!
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  17. #57
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    Something I also may have failed to realize is that the stock gearing is likely designed for 8s Batts since the truck is advertised and designed for 8s, correct?

    In theory I should be able to gear up pretty high (24/46?) on 3s with no issues since the voltage is lower on 6s? Or am I mistaken

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by varunaX View Post
    Something I also may have failed to realize is that the stock gearing is likely designed for 8s Batts since the truck is advertised and designed for 8s, correct?

    In theory I should be able to gear up pretty high (24/46?) on 3s with no issues since the voltage is lower on 6s? Or am I mistaken
    You're right.

  19. #59
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    Have you tried 8s yet? Sounds too me like that is your bottom line issue? The stock motor is 1275Kv and your only giving it 22.2v. If you used 8s you'd be getting another 10,000rpm from the extra 7.4v. And your batteries C rating isn't holding you back. I run the traxxas 6700 25c batteries on my stock xmaxx and it did and does around 73kmh from new. The C rating isn't power it puts out, its the demand they can supply. Your motor/esc decides that. You don't "push" amps into an esc, the esc "pulls" it in.
    Last edited by amihal; 06-29-2020 at 02:45 PM.

  20. #60
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    nope i havnt tried 4s. 4s very well could change my mind. i think thats kinda what i was asking in the OP before i sink 400$ into new batts and a 4s charger. it doesn't sound like many people are disappointed in the xmaxx performance with 8s

    i just have these 3s batts that have been ungodly in my erevo for years now, so you can understand my initial reaction how they move the stock xmaxx. very different cars, though i know.

  21. #61
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    yes very different. Your erevo is optimized to run on 6s. Much like the xmaxx is optimized to run on 8s.

    The exact quote is even in the manual "Your X-maxx is designed to work with 4s lipo batteries. 2s/3s can be used but hey will deliver much slower performance"
    .

  22. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by amihal View Post
    yes very different. Your erevo is optimized to run on 6s. Much like the xmaxx is optimized to run on 8s.

    The exact quote is even in the manual "Your X-maxx is designed to work with 4s lipo batteries. 2s/3s can be used but hey will deliver much slower performance"
    .
    Excellent explanation mate.

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