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  1. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjtamu-redux View Post
    VP makes good fuel. If youíre storing the truck inside and running it again the next day you donít need to use the after run. But I would drain the tank and burn the excess fuel from the engine before putting up. After run if itís going to sit more than a day.
    Good deal.

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  2. #122
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    I agree. If I'm going to run it again in the next day or two I don't do the after run. Past that I do. I'm glad it's up and running.

  3. #123
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    Here's where I got thrown off with adjusting
    The idle screw. Glad I adjusted the low speed though. Is this a typo? Also I experienced it moving forward during the first tank and not the 3rd. It does say all engines will perform. Different though. Glad i adjusted the right one.
    This brings me back to my old 4 wheeling days lol

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    Last edited by Aqualungs; 08-15-2020 at 08:34 AM.

  4. #124
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    I remember something about the LSN being set on the lean side to help keep the engine running (and give some heat) while the HSN was rich during the break in process. During the break in, you shouldn't be adjusting for power.

  5. #125
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    Ahh picture didn't upload.. one more time

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  6. #126
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    No it's not a typo. The break in process creates a heat up-cool down cycle that mates the moving parts. During normal driving after break-in the engine will run at a fairly consistent temp.

  7. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    I remember something about the LSN being set on the lean side to help keep the engine running (and give some heat) while the HSN was rich during the break in process. During the break in, you shouldn't be adjusting for power.
    Right not til tank 6 do you tune for performance according to the manual.. The low speed was pretty lean it seemed. It was hard to get the truck to stop and when Letting off the brake it was driving forward.
    After I recovered last night, I did adjust the throttle link spring attached to the servo. It had just a tiny bit of play, and I also tightened up the brakes a little.. Basically the low speed need opening was able to sit in 2 spots. 1 to 1.5 mm and about 2 mm.
    Now it has enough tension it doesn't go anywhere.

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  8. #128
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    Should i put the low speed needle flush and back to factory again since I did this adjustment? I am thinking that bit of play was opening the throttle a little when letting off rhe rhrotrle, and that is why it was walking forward a bit. That little bit of play is gone and throttle arm closes perfectly and stays.
    Or should i wait til its warm and adjust lean low speed needle until it tries to move forward and richen it until it stops.

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  9. #129
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    Idle speed adjustment screw is the small screw that controls how wide the gap is at idle (ďfully closedĒ). Back side of carb, maybe grizzly03 has a pic. The fact they tell you to turn counterclockwise on tank 3 tells me they have it opened to account for the high end being rich during break-in. Kind of what grizzly03 was talking about. Long as the pinch test is good as you continue to lean the high end youíll be fine.

    Edit: If your idle gap is wrong you can end up with a false idle when tuning. Long post for another time but has to do with the balance between high and low needles being wrong. If the gap is in the 0.5-1 mm range I would leave it alone and make fine adjustments as engine breaks in and you start to tune for performance.
    Last edited by cjtamu-redux; 08-15-2020 at 10:19 AM.

  10. #130
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    Yes that's where the gap is now. What I meant is the spring tension wasn't enough on the throttle arm that connects the throttle servo to carb slide. It wasnt closing properly all the way to the proper gap of .5 to 1 mm.it was loosely goi g between that and 2mmish. So that may be why it was driving forward when trying to stop. So whenI richened the low speed needle and it stopped i may have countered that increase in throttle?
    So I am wondering now that i got rid of that play, should I set the low speed screw back to factory setting which is flush?


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  11. #131
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    Sorry if I'm speaking my own language lol. The spring tension on the linkage where I circled was not enough. There was a little play when letting off the throttle allowing about 1mm play in the gap for the low speed needle. Now that play is gone and the gap is perfect.

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  12. #132
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    Battling another headache.. as soon as it lifts I'm going outside lol!

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  13. #133
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    Tank 2 down and left the low speed screw where it is. When i had it warmed up I did the pinch test. In between 3-4 secs. Nice blue smoke coming out at half throttle. Slow going but almost there. About 84 supposed to cool off a little. Usually I love the heat but I'm still hurting a bit lol!!

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  14. #134
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    Here's a video of tank 5.. its a crappy video so ill take it down after a bit. I thi k I need ro adjust the transmission to shift into second a little later. What you guys think? Just washes and drying the foam filter. I may not ru. Tank 6 til tomorrow and I definitely need more fuel lol. I have a tank of 30% because stoxk was low at the time. If i use thst I read i need to richen the high speed need 3/4 turn out.

    https://youtu.be/A6KCTPI4BTo

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  15. #135
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    Too bad I didn't get it on video at the end.. i ramped a mound of day lillies lol.
    Oh also ordered a set of 2.5 center diff shafts just encase these go and they arrived today.


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    Last edited by Aqualungs; 08-15-2020 at 05:42 PM.

  16. #136
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    Gotcha. That 3-4 seconds is where I like to be most times. Sounds like it’s idling fine, I don’t hear it idling high then coming back down so that’s good. Can fine tune small adjustments when you finish break in. Engine sounds good. Shift point is personal preference. Again, something I would leave alone until I was done with break in. Fun aren’t they? I hope you know the owner of the day lilies well!

    84 degrees? I’d love that for a high. We just cooled off to 85 about 30 minutes ago! Hope your head feels better.

  17. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjtamu-redux View Post
    Gotcha. That 3-4 seconds is where I like to be most times. Sounds like itís idling fine, I donít hear it idling high then coming back down so thatís good. Can fine tune small adjustments when you finish break in. Engine sounds good. Shift point is personal preference. Again, something I would leave alone until I was done with break in. Fun arenít they? I hope you know the owner of the day lilies well!

    84 degrees? Iíd love that for a high. We just cooled off to 85 about 30 minutes ago! Hope your head feels better.
    Yea definitely fun! Tomorrow I'll run the 6th tank and tune the high speed. Plan on doing a little bashing with some friends later.
    I'm liking the 2.5r power and speed. Almsot seems just as fast as my Stampede VXL on 2s. Just enough power for me.. i did roll by accident a couple times lol. Those chevron tires when warmed up on the pavement started getting squirrly lol. Gonna adjust the steering sensitivity down a little so the tqi doesn't struggle with itself lol. But very happy to add this to my fleet! Will probably be my only Nitro but loving it.
    Feeling much better too thanks. I usually don't get sick from my headaches because they are so frequent and use to having them a lot. Caught me off guard.

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  18. #138
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    Ran 2 more tanks today, before the storms started rolling in. What a blast.. haven't had this much fun since my atv days. Buddy has a 3.3 Slash and I seemed to be moving quicker. Idk.
    Went to the hobbyshop and they were out of 20%. I have a quart of 30% I bought by accident when they were I out of 20% a month back. From the manual it says I can run it, so I may go ahead.
    Tuning is going good. Temps dropped to 70s ended up having to richen rhe mix a bit. High speed mix is about 4 1/8 turns out.

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  19. #139
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    Sounds like you're having a blast. I have no experience with the 2.5, don't know how it will behave on 30%.

  20. #140
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    The manual says 10-30% can be used, but i believe they reccomend using the fuel you break it in with. So not sure if i should use it, especially when I'm just learning to tune. It says if you use it, richen 3/4 turn on high speed needle

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  21. #141
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    Switching fuels won't hurt anything but I run 3/4 or so tank at a slightly rich setting before I tune it back up. You will have to richen the HSN with the 30%. If the manual doesn't recommend changing anything (head shims, glow plug) then I assume it's ok. Maybe there's someone around here who's actually run a 2.5 on 30%.

  22. #142
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    There is nothing extra to do when switching. The only thing needed is to re-tune with the fuel you are using.

  23. #143
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    Sounds good, thanks Gents. Manual says going from 20 to 30% richen 3/4 turn on high screw. I'll do a pinch test for the low speed when its warms up.

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    Last edited by Aqualungs; 08-17-2020 at 07:57 PM.

  24. #144
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    Need a little help. As you saw in the video everything was running good. Next day went out for tank 7 which is where the manual says to do the fine tuning. It was about 10 degrees cooler and was having a little issue. Would get it started and then it would stop. I did not change the glow plug like the manual stated. Got it going and after warmed up not as much smoke was coming out and felt it cut out of power a little. So I richened the high speed screw 1/4 turn. Which I found weird since the manual suggest to start leaning the high speed until you see no gain of power and richen. Anyways, It started behaving better and nice smoke. It was moving nice and great power. Had a blast. I finished the tank out and then it started raining. Did after run procedure and has sit a couple days.
    So I took it out today. It was 10 degrees warmer and about the temps I broke In the motor with. This may have been my mistake, but I used the 30% fuel, and turned the high speed needle 3/4 turn out to richen like the manual said. Should I have warmed up first? Basically, Went to start it, fuel went in quick and sprayed out the pipe. I cant remember if it started and then cut out?...Of course I hydrolocked it soonafter and went through the steps to clear it out. Trying to lean out I hydrolocked it 2 more times. After that got it started but couldn't keep it running. I did put in a new glow plug before I took it out today.
    Make a long story short I got lost trying to tune. I Did get it to stop spraying fuel, idled nice, and then cut out with throttle. Should I have let it idle for a few minutes to warm? Tried to start with half throttle after that and it ran but let off throttle and no go.
    I got it close to moving forward and then it cut out again. I feel at this point I need to reset to carb defaults and possivly wait for my 20% fuel to get here. I can figure out the high speed at 4 turns out, low speed needs to be flush with the slide valve. Being that i messed with the idle screw, what is the best way to set that? I read .7 to 1mm. Is there a trade secret to doing this?
    I will get this eventually. I am determined

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  25. #145
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    For setting the slide opening if you have a small drill bit, you can use that for setting it. Anytime you start to have trouble the best thing to do is start from factory settings. It's easy to get lost. Don't worry about leaning for power each time, especially during the break-in. I made that mistake when the 2.5 first came out. On my engines I very rarely ever need to touch the idle screw after break-in. On the Low Speed Needle that doesn't change much either. It's the High Speed Needle that gets tuned the most with day to day running.



    It's a good idea to use the same fuel during the break-in of the engine.
    Last edited by grizzly03; 08-21-2020 at 11:29 PM.

  26. #146
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    Nice i will set the idle with a bit. I set the HSN and LSN to factory. The break is is complete, well to Traxxas standards..lol. I put 7 tanks through it before going to 30%. With that being said should I have richened the HSN 3/4 turn after it had warmed up?
    Thanks again

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  27. #147
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Before you started the engine. Try setting the HSN 4&3/4 - 4&1/2 turn if using 30%. Tune from there.

  28. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aqualungs View Post
    Here's a video of tank 5.. its a crappy video so ill take it down after a bit. I thi k I need ro adjust the transmission to shift into second a little later. What you guys think? Just washes and drying the foam filter. I may not ru. Tank 6 til tomorrow and I definitely need more fuel lol. I have a tank of 30% because stoxk was low at the time. If i use thst I read i need to richen the high speed need 3/4 turn out.

    https://youtu.be/A6KCTPI4BTo
    Around the :20 second mark where it idles for a moment and then you accelerated, was there a smoke trail? I didn't see any in the video so IDK. You should be getting a smoke trail.

  29. #149
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    Time for a crash course in Tuning 101 ha ha. That's a great chart Grizzly03 gave you. To boil it down, the cooler it is and the drier it is the leaner your engine will be and need to be richened a little and the hotter and more humid it is the richer it will be and need to be leaned a little. So, even if nothing else had changed, on your cool dry day the engine would have run leaner than on your hot humid day. It's why there's no "magic bullet" number of turns out or in. It requires a little tweaking as conditions change like Grizzly03 said. Another note about tuning. When you're tuning for performance you need the engine to be fully warmed up. If it will start and run, I wouldn't touch the settings for the first half tank. Then tune for performance. If you don't have a temp gun get one. Handy little tool for nitro.

    Honestly, when your LHS gets more 20% in I'd go buy a gallon or 2 depending on how much you're going to run the truck. You're not racing, there's no need for 30%. It will be much easier to tune while your're learning especially in that smaller displacement engine. Just store the fuel inside in climate control and it will last a long time. Let us know how it goes.

    Edit: I thought I saw a little smoke at the 0:20 mark but not sure. I don't hear the idle coming staying up and coming down and I don't hear a whine on the big end. But I think that video was a few days ago when it was still on the 20%.
    Last edited by cjtamu-redux; 08-22-2020 at 08:30 AM.

  30. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Around the :20 second mark where it idles for a moment and then you accelerated, was there a smoke trail? I didn't see any in the video so IDK. You should be getting a smoke trail.
    I remembered watching it for smoke the whole time breaking in and it was definitely smoking. I noticed the video didn't show it very well, but i definitely remembered it having blue smoke trail.
    The next day and 7th tank was the only time I noticed smoke not coming out and I richened the high speed.

    I put the high speed at 4 3/4. I had a small body clip I measured at 1mm with my caliper and set the idle screw. Flushed the low speed screw.

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  31. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjtamu-redux View Post
    Time for a crash course in Tuning 101 ha ha. That's a great chart Grizzly03 gave you. To boil it down, the cooler it is and the drier it is the leaner your engine will be and need to be richened a little and the hotter and more humid it is the richer it will be and need to be leaned a little. So, even if nothing else had changed, on your cool dry day the engine would have run leaner than on your hot humid day. It's why there's no "magic bullet" number of turns out or in. It requires a little tweaking as conditions change like Grizzly03 said. Another note about tuning. When you're tuning for performance you need the engine to be fully warmed up. If it will start and run, I wouldn't touch the settings for the first half tank. Then tune for performance. If you don't have a temp gun get one. Handy little tool for nitro.

    Honestly, when your LHS gets more 20% in I'd go buy a gallon or 2 depending on how much you're going to run the truck. You're not racing, there's no need for 30%. It will be much easier to tune while your're learning especially in that smaller displacement engine. Just store the fuel inside in climate control and it will last a long time. Let us know how it goes.

    Edit: I thought I saw a little smoke at the 0:20 mark but not sure. I don't hear the idle coming staying up and coming down and I don't hear a whine on the big end. But I think that video was a few days ago when it was still on the 20%.
    I do have a temp gun and will use it next time. That chart is helpful and definitely understand leaning or richening with temps. Even better with the chart. The next day after the video I did have a hard time getting it started but it did finally. This was tank 7 and 20%. By the time it started and got it running and warmed up I noticed not much smoke coming out and richened 1/4 turn on the high speed needle. I ran great after that and finished the tank. Then it started raining.
    Yesterday I tried the 30% and richened 3/4. It did not want to start, primed quick. and quite a Bit of fuel came out and flooded it.. This is where I went wrong. I messed with the low speed needle and then idle screw. I got it to start a few times but would cut out or when tried to move forward cut out. This is where I got lost. Hopefully today all will go well.
    I ordered 3 cans of 20% and agree I dont need 30. I bought it not knowing when the 20 was out of stock. I guess I will wait till they get here Wed.
    I think i will watch more nitro 101 videos in the meantime
    Thanks again for the help fellas. Sorry if I seem a little dense. Had a bad head injury last year so it is challenging to remember things sometimes due to the blow and bad headaches. Going into this I ingrained blue smoke in my mind and characteristics of running lean vs rich. When i watched the video i remember thinking you can't see the smoke really. Amazingly I remember it being there lol

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    Last edited by Aqualungs; 08-22-2020 at 09:21 AM.

  32. #152
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    One more question, I can't find in the manual. When started, do you let it idle for a time to warm up? About how long if so?

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  33. #153
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    I used to have a great write up on engine tuning. I’ll try to find it. Probably buried on an old hard drive somewhere. Way back before cloud servers were a thing LOL. For now, remember the HSN is also your main supply. Fuel comes from the top down. So, any change you make to the HSN is making the same change to the LSN. Just a smaller increment. What you want in the end is balance between the high and low needles. That’s why the pinch test is so important.

    Edit: I don’t let it idle. Once it’s running drive it around till it’s warmed up. The chassis and mounts are actually a heat sink. Engine gets warm, then they draw heat away as they get warm. Touch them after a tank and you’ll see ha! You want everything warmed up before you start tuning for performance. And after you make a change, run the it a minute or two to let the changes take full effect.
    Last edited by cjtamu-redux; 08-22-2020 at 09:38 AM.

  34. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjtamu-redux View Post
    I used to have a great write up on engine tuning. Iíll try to find it. Probably buried on an old hard drive somewhere. Way back before cloud servers were a thing LOL. For now, remember the HSN is also your main supply. Fuel comes from the top down. So, any change you make to the HSN is making the same change to the LSN. Just a smaller increment. What you want in the end is balance between the high and low needles. Thatís why the pinch test is so important.

    Edit: I donít let it idle. Once itís running drive it around till itís warmed up. The chassis and mounts are actually a heat sink. Engine gets warm, then they draw heat away as they get warm. Touch them after a tank and youíll see ha! You want everything warmed up before you start tuning for performance. And after you make a change, run the it a minute or two to let the changes take full effect.
    Perfect thanks! I reread the traxxas manual last night also and read about the HSN really being the only adjustment needed once the others were set good. Right there and the fuel is where I figured I goofed since it was spraying fuel out the exhaust lol.
    Would love to have your write up. Thanks!

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    Fuel should be here Monday or Tuesday. My buddy threw me some cash for the 30%. Gonna go out with him next for a little more guidance.
    Meanwhile have been bashing my Stampede since Friday. Love this truck, always my go. Older pic, body has been lowered a bit since. to.

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  36. #156
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    Nice looking Stampede. I’m looking for a new body for the T-maxx right now. Traded the old 3.3 for a fresh one yesterday so I’ll probably start the rebuild soon.

    That’s not quite accurate on the HSN. Small changes to the high end may not require tuning on the low end. But big swings probably will.

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    Nice looking forward to the build!
    Good to know on the HSN.

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    Finally had time and no headaches to get back in the saddle. Everything went well until my hump battery ran out of juice lol. To be continued

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    Glad to hear your headaches are better and you're back up and running. Keep those packs charged. That way when the electric guys are charging batteries and letting motors cool you can just fuel up and keep running ha ha.

  40. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjtamu-redux View Post
    Glad to hear your headaches are better and you're back up and running. Keep those packs charged. That way when the electric guys are charging batteries and letting motors cool you can just fuel up and keep running ha ha.
    Haha!! Will do!! I just ordered charger cables for them to get a better charge also. I dont trust the wall adapters and have no idea where they're at. I'm used to lipos lol

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