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  1. #1
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    Aqualungs Tmaxx .15 Overhaul

    I was gifted a 99ish Tmaxx .15 Pro and started to decide what direction to go and disassemble and rebuild. This beast does not have much use and is my first Nitro. I have 2 motors and both look like the same .15.
    So far with the breakdown only a few wear items need replaced and so far all bearings are good. I'll replace then bext rebuild.
    I have tested the EZstart motor and wires and we are golden. May go to a pull start.. not sure yet..
    I have a TQI Remote and Reciever from my Stampede that I am going to use. I also have a Flysky GT5 6 channel controller, but i want someone else to be able to drive, while I or they drive my Stampede.

    Plans:
    -Remove reverse with kit tra4994X
    -Make 1 speed with part tra5193X
    -Add 3.3 bellcrank steering (no servo in the way)
    -Add tra5351X torque control upgrade
    -Rebuild Ultra shocks and add VG springs, 40k, and aluminum shock caps
    -60v recharge pack or replace rotted aa pack
    -new fuel tank and orange shock asorbers
    -tra4060 air filter
    -rebuild diffs with 100k and red Lucas grease
    -have 2 2075 servos one rebuilt with metal gears to replace the old ones

    Any other suggestions would be great. Thanks!


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  2. #2
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    That's going to be a fun project. I'm partial to that nitro sound.

    Is there a reason you are going to a 1 speed vs 2 speed? Also the original diffs (T-maxx classic) don't have seals. It's been a while but I think they had silicone grease in them. I'm not sure how well the diff fluid will stay in there. You might need to upgrade to the 3.3 diffs if you want to use diff oil. The rest of the rebuild parts look good.

  3. #3
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    Yeah the original diffs were not sealed and did use regular grease.

    Looking forward to seeing this project completed!

    Personally, I'd keep the ez-start, but that's me. I've always liked the ez-start's simplicity of plug in, press the button, and go.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    That's going to be a fun project. I'm partial to that nitro sound.

    Is there a reason you are going to a 1 speed vs 2 speed? Also the original diffs (T-maxx classic) don't have seals. It's been a while but I think they had silicone grease in them. I'm not sure how well the diff fluid will stay in there. You might need to upgrade to the 3.3 diffs if you want to use diff oil. The rest of the rebuild parts look good.
    Thanks Grizzly! My first nitro, and have been learning alot.
    Should i just stick with the 2 speed? How does it even work, do the gears do the shifting?
    Do the Tmaxx 3.3 diffs fit without any issue, I don't mind upgrading to the stronger diffs and I imagine you need to change to the 3.3 housing? Otherwise if they are not sealed I would just clean and regressed them.
    Next upgrade will be rpm arms, maybe even the rest truetrac and 3.3 shafts?
    Still have a lot to learn, also maybe interest in sending Traxxas my engine to upgrade to the 2.5 or 3.3.
    Like I said i have alot of threads to pour over and learn!

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    Quote Originally Posted by cooleocool View Post
    Yeah the original diffs were not sealed and did use regular grease.

    Looking forward to seeing this project completed!

    Personally, I'd keep the ez-start, but that's me. I've always liked the ez-start's simplicity of plug in, press the button, and go.
    Thanks I think i will keep the ez start. The glow plug wire just needs some new shrinkwrap.
    I'm excited a out this one. I have a slash build that has been sitting 2 years thst only needs a motor lol. I keep upgrading or fixing my stampede. This tmaxx is so cool. It's a classic, so the rebuild is exciting!

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    Just watched a video on the 2 speed and the weighted clutch that kicks in at higher speeds. I am going to keep it a 2 speed, to keep the lower gearing at slower speeds. I like that and its money saved for the budget.

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    Good news, diffs are sealed according to the .15 assembly.

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    Last edited by Double G; 06-29-2020 at 09:00 AM. Reason: merge

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aqualungs View Post
    Good news, diffs are sealed according to the .15 assembly.

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    I can confirm the 2 screw diffs are NOT sealed.
    I just finished converting my big block Tmaxx
    of the same vintage to brushless.


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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by glockcoma View Post
    I can confirm the 2 screw diffs are NOT sealed.
    I just finished converting my big block Tmaxx
    of the same vintage to brushless.


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    The diagram is showing the 4 screw diffs. I'll open them up today. Either way I will go with stock for now

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  7. #7
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    I used wd40 specialist grease.
    But any high quality multi purpose grease will work.
    I packed the spider gears then generously coated the pinion and ring gear.


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    The diagram you posted shows 2 screw housings.



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    Last edited by Double G; 06-29-2020 at 08:58 AM. Reason: merge, clutter reduction

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by glockcoma View Post
    The diagram you posted shows 2 screw housings.



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    Ohh gotcha I was thinking the pinion and spider gears. Gotcha. That will work! I plan to upgrade, diffs and carriers, shafts, and a arms next wave of upgrades.

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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aqualungs View Post
    The diagram is showing the 4 screw diffs. I'll open them up today. Either way I will go with stock for now

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    The diffs may be four screws the but outer case is two. A sealed diff will have seals on both output shafts as well as one between the ring gear and cup. The one shown in the diagram does not.
    The Super Derecho

  10. #10
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    Another question when I upgrade to the slipper clurch with the 5351x slipper assembly. What happens with the old brake setup?

    Same thing with removing the reverse gear
    What happens to the hole with the boot?

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  11. #11
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    The old brake setup stays the same. And when you remove the reverse parts they include a screw to install in the hole where the reverse arm was.

    You'll enjoy it with that 2 speed shifting!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    The old brake setup stays the same. And when you remove the reverse parts they include a screw to install in the hole where the reverse arm was.

    You'll enjoy it with that 2 speed shifting!
    Nice! Yea i like the sound of the shifting. Pretty cool!

    So all part order list is complete. I just bit the bullet and purchased the big bore shock set. The cost of making the old shocks better comes too close to the price of the big bore set. I can still use the VG springs on them i believe.
    Also ordered RPM black Bumpers and skid plates.

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    Last edited by Aqualungs; 06-29-2020 at 10:30 AM.

  13. #13
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Looking forward to the progress on this classic. Myself I have an S-Maxx I'm rebuilding.(slowly LoL)

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Looking forward to the progress on this classic. Myself I have an S-Maxx I'm rebuilding.(slowly LoL)
    Sounds like my 2wd Slash build. I thought about slow building this one, but the Nitro part had mr a little excited to try something new. I've pondered stripping it down and keeping parts and ebaying new parts I don't need.

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  15. #15
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    Sanded and matte black coated the wheels. Gonna recondition the tires with some Gummie Fledge or Aerospace. Just have to break down the diffs and tranny, and the rebuild starts! Waiting on parts..

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  16. #16
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    I forgot to tell you the T-Maxx 3.3 shock towers and body mount posts are a good upgrade. They have a square post which is stronger than the classic round post. Yours still look to be in good shape. I just never had good luck with the round posts holding up from the countless roll overs & crashes. LoL.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    I forgot to tell you the T-Maxx 3.3 shock towers and body mount posts are a good upgrade. They have a square post which is stronger than the classic round post. Yours still look to be in good shape. I just never had good luck with the round posts holding up from the countless roll overs & crashes. LoL.
    Haha! Yea i figured we will see how long these stock parts last. They are mint.. figure I'll break em first. Have to tear up this body anyways so I can do a new one. Stock body only havs a few rashes on it

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  18. #18
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    Got a little carried away and stayed up to 130am stripping down everything and cleaning off with WD40. Dewalt gyro screwdriver is a lifesaver lol. Reglued the tires and reconditioned the rubber. Hard to believe these things are 20 years old.
    All the parts look good, no stress cracks, and all the bearings are smooth like butter and no rust. Still quit alot of black Traxxas goop. I'll be replacing that with Red Lucas grease.
    The old body is still in great condtion, and will be snickering it up.. Let the rebuild begin

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  19. #19
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    Buttoned up the electronics. Used my old TQI receiver and controller from my 17 Stampede. Added a 6volt hump battery and scrapped the aa pack. 2075 servo also from my Stampede and has metal gears. Added a 25 kg servo for steering. Everything checks out and in the green!
    On to converting the tranny.

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    Last edited by Aqualungs; 07-02-2020 at 01:41 PM.

  20. #20
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    Should have weighed the transmission before and after.. oh well still a significant drop with the reverse lockout kit.
    Axles are rebuilt with Lucas Red. I used some of my bike lube on the bearings. Which were all in near perfect condition.
    Attached the chassis but wating on the slipper clutch upgrade kit, before I can attach the chassis braces and RPM skids..
    The plastic exhaust was badly gunked with bubbly hard tar or melted something. Idk couldn't work it free. I broke down and ordered the blue aluminum exhaust. Alos waiting on shocks and bumpers. Black VG springs arrived today. So close, but so far.

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  21. #21
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aqualungs View Post
    Should have weighed the transmission before and after.. oh well still a significant drop with the reverse lockout kit...
    On the classic transmission the forward only conversion really made a big difference in performance. You'll be happy. I never understood the plastic pipe. Hot exhaust and plastic not really a good mix, LoL.
    The rebuild is looking good.

  22. #22
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    I had to do a sneak peek lol. Body is almost done. Only have to patch up 1 crack with some drywall tape and shoe goo

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  23. #23
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    Didn't realize there were no before pics

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  24. #24
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    It's cleaning up nicely!

  25. #25
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    Looking good.
    I canít believe those original barcode stickers were still on.


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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by glockcoma View Post
    Looking good.
    I canít believe those original barcode stickers were still on.


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    Right! I couldn't believe the bearings were in perfect condition. Form what my friend to told me, he runs planes. His daughter used to just drive it around the yard. It just had alot of years of dust and dirt on it lol

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  27. #27
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    Hit a bump in the road. Decided I should use the heavy black spring for the bellcrank setup. I just can't figure out how the get the assembly back apart.
    Any help would be appreciated!

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  28. #28
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    It should just pull apart. The bearing on the top might be stuck on the aluminum post. What HD black spring?

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    It should just pull apart. The bearing on the top might be stuck on the aluminum post. What HD black spring?
    Dang thing is stuck. The posts were a little worn and I may have to roll with is setup and eventually replace the posts etx. The Bellcrank came with a black heavy spring. For use with metal gear and higher powered servos. I second guessed and went with the regular spring and wanted to see how it performed with the black spring

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  30. #30
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Never knew it existed. Thanks for sharing.

    Do you know if you can get the spring separately or only in the kit?

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Never knew it existed. Thanks for sharing.

    Do you know if you can get the spring separately or only in the kit?
    Not sure but it seems maybe it's used for the Emaxx stock?

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  32. #32
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    Linked up all the shafts and did an steering servo test. Looks like the bellcrank arm is hitting the driveshaft. Maybe I should flip the servo the othet way and try?

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  33. #33
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    That's odd. Mine doesn't come close to hitting. This is how mine is setup.



    Also why are using such a long servo arm?

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    That's odd. Mine doesn't come close to hitting. This is how mine is setup.



    Also why are using such a long servo arm?
    It's the one that came with the servo. The .15 had the old servo saver on it and the 3.3 bell crank kit did not come with the arm. It looks like I can position the arm farther away and extend the link a bit. That might do it

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  35. #35
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    I think i need a different arm... lol

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  36. #36
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Which arm is hitting? Here is how much room I have when turned fully.


  37. #37
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aqualungs View Post
    I think i need a different arm... lol
    You could use that servo arm. The steering will just be touchy.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Which arm is hitting? Here is how much room I have when turned fully.

    The arm you are showing. The servo arm is pushing it to far over. Should be able to make some adjustments

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  39. #39
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    I may end up switching out recievers to my ******* GT5. I can at least set endpoints and sensitivity. This 25kg servo is even flecong the aluminum plate. Lol

    Meanwhile Big Bore shocks completed, Slipper Clutch upgrades, RPM Bulkhead supports, skid plates and bumpers added.

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    Ordered shorter servo arms. This isn't going work well.. lol

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