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  1. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by OS15CVPower View Post
    Man that Maxx looks good. Now all you need is an old skool stock flame body.
    I patched up the original body.. just no flames lol!

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  2. #82
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    Welp definitely has compression but would not start. Glo plug heats up fine. Sprayed a little fuel out of the right side and some puffs of smoke. I pulled the head off to check everything, there is a gasket.
    Tried again. Heard a sound that made me think it reached the ez start gears but the clutch bell spins when cranking it. Also, looks like something is burned onto the top of the piston.

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  3. #83
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    Gonna try again today. Tightened the head down good. If this doesn't work, I guess I'm going to do the motor trade up with Traxxas.
    Not sure which one I will get. I know the 2.5 and 3.3 will break some stuff easier.
    Any other motor suggestions that will work good with this .15 setup? OS .15 motor?

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    Last edited by Aqualungs; 08-03-2020 at 08:46 AM.

  4. #84
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    What is that on the piston? Piece of an O-ring?

    IMHO If the bearings and carb are good I would probably go with a new piston/sleeve. They are fairly cheap ($40 retail). If upgrading I would probably go with the 2.5R Traxxas power-up engine. I think $85 for the engine is a good deal (it has the anodized machined head). If my old Picco max .21 is no good, that's what I'm going with in my S-maxx rebuild.

  5. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    What is that on the piston? Piece of an O-ring?

    IMHO If the bearings and carb are good I would probably go with a new piston/sleeve. They are fairly cheap ($40 retail). If upgrading I would probably go with the 2.5R Traxxas power-up engine. I think $85 for the engine is a good deal (it has the anodized machined head). If my old Picco max .21 is no good, that's what I'm going with in my S-maxx rebuild.
    I was wondering what it was too..its definitely burned on. I am wondering if not using a new header hasket caused the problem . The instructions on the motor state a new one should be used after removing and replacing the head head gasket.

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  6. #86
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    So I'm at a fork in the road. Do I continue this route and do the Power up program and order the 2.5R motor. Or do I convert to electric motor and sell off some barely used parts.
    1. 2.5R motor, upgrade kit, and new EZ start 160$
    Plus cost of running a nitro

    Or

    2. Brushless ESC, a new titan brushed motor i already have, rigged to a motor/esc mount 125ish

    3. Brushless motor & esc with mount. $200ish

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  7. #87
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    Just not sure if I should stick with what I'm good at and know. Or if I should continue trying nitro.

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  8. #88
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    The Titan motor option would save me some bones for now and give me time to update the driveline components to move to Brushless.

    Would be neat if Traxxas offered nitro motor credit for a brushless setup

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  9. #89
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    Personally, I'm more a fan of keeping a nitro truck nitro. There's already an electric truck based on this platform (E-Maxx), so if you want electric, I'd get one of those. That's just me, though. Nitro can be a lot of fun once you get the hang of everything.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  10. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooleocool View Post
    Personally, I'm more a fan of keeping a nitro truck nitro. There's already an electric truck based on this platform (E-Maxx), so if you want electric, I'd get one of those. That's just me, though. Nitro can be a lot of fun once you get the hang of everything.
    I have been pondering the same thing. I decided to step back and think about it over the weekend. I have to keep in mind this is a 20 year old motor, that was supposedly rebuilt.
    I was going to have to upgrade ez start and get the upgrade kit anyways down the road. I may give it a shot.

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    Last edited by Aqualungs; 08-07-2020 at 05:05 PM.

  11. #91
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    You did an excellent job of cleaning it up and setting it up for a fun running truck. It would cost a lot more to convert to electric and have something that's not going to break under brushless power. The T-Maxx classic driveline (axles,diffs) are much weaker than the 3.3 vehicles.

    IMO I would get a new piston/sleeve and not worry about upgrading. It wouldn't cost very much. This way you would have a running "Nitro Powered" truck. Then you would know if you wanted to upgrade or go electric.

  12. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    You did an excellent job of cleaning it up and setting it up for a fun running truck. It would cost a lot more to convert to electric and have something that's not going to break under brushless power. The T-Maxx classic driveline (axles,diffs) are much weaker than the 3.3 vehicles.

    IMO I would get a new piston/sleeve and not worry about upgrading. It wouldn't cost very much. This way you would have a running "Nitro Powered" truck. Then you would know if you wanted to upgrade or go electric.
    Good point.
    Another question, I have a glow starter. Can I just zip tie the blue wire to rhe shock tower and not use it?

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  13. #93
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    yeah you can. All the blue wire does is gives current to the glow plug so it ignites. I did not use the blue wire sometimes since it was getting annoying when you have to do after run procedure.

  14. #94
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    Had some time to clear my mind, and decided to go and get the 2.5R tomorrow. The hobbyshop has them,and hopefully the 4900 upgrade kit. I may try the pullstart first.
    Everytime I thought about electric conversion, the more I hated the idea. After more research I felt the nitro path is justified. Also put an end to my brothers friend's stories of going through 4-5 glow plugs a week. Advised him he's probably running to lean lol.
    So I'm going to prep the motor for trade and make ready for the new motor. Anything I should do to the fuel lines and tank? I siphoned out the gas after each time I tried to start it, pulled the lines off and let the sipon out and fuel that was left.
    Thanks again for all the help everyone

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    Last edited by Aqualungs; 08-10-2020 at 09:20 PM.

  15. #95
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    Took the motor in for the Power Up Program trade today, and a new EZ Start kit. Had to order the #4099 .15 to 2.5 conversion kit.
    Meanwhile have watched multiple videos and read manual on break in. Now we wait. Meanwhile I plan to ebay my mint .15 parts lol.

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  16. #96
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Congrats. You'll be happy. You should be able to use the aluminum pipe you have instead if the plastic one in the kit. I'm not a fan of the plastic pipes. Something about hot exhaust and plastic just doesn't make sense to me, LOL.

  17. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Congrats. You'll be happy. You should be able to use the aluminum pipe you have instead if the plastic one in the kit. I'm not a fan of the plastic pipes. Something about hot exhaust and plastic just doesn't make sense to me, LOL.
    Agreed! I plan on using the blue pipe for sure.. however I am bummed I might not be able to have the output shoot out of the bottom of the chassis. Always thought that was cool. Lol

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  18. #98
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    Pre drilled the holes in the 15 chassis. One of my holes is slightly off by 1mm. May just br the template was slightly angled, even though I thought it matched up pretty good. Will this be ok or should I order a 2.5 chassis on ebay for 13$. I do not want to mess up anything for sure!

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  19. #99
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    It will be fine. The two out side holes are just locating holes for the new linkage pivot post. The center one is the one for the screw that holds the pivot post. You are going to adjust the new linkage anyways.

  20. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    It will be fine. The two out side holes are just locating holes for the new linkage pivot post. The center one is the one for the screw that holds the pivot post. You are going to adjust the new linkage anyways.
    Perfect Appreciate it grizzly!

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  21. #101
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    Nice looking truck, great job on the rebuild. Shame you couldn’t salvage the .15. Someone mentioned rinsing engines with alcohol. Use denatured alcohol so you’re not also introducing water. In an engine that’s been sitting for a long time, castor oil can gum up the crank bearings and that’s often while they feel seized. Denatured will dissolve that. I put a drop of after run into the bearings after I de-gum them before reassembly. I haven’t seen an old T-maxx in years, looking forward to seeing it run.

  22. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjtamu-redux View Post
    Nice looking truck, great job on the rebuild. Shame you couldnít salvage the .15. Someone mentioned rinsing engines with alcohol. Use denatured alcohol so youíre not also introducing water. In an engine thatís been sitting for a long time, castor oil can gum up the crank bearings and thatís often while they feel seized. Denatured will dissolve that. I put a drop of after run into the bearings after I de-gum them before reassembly. I havenít seen an old T-maxx in years, looking forward to seeing it run.
    Thanks for the kind words. I wanted to keep the .15, and not sure if i did something to it when I did the first tune wrong. When I tried again, I had no compression and even plugging the pipe, duel did not go to the carb. I feel I have a better grasp now. I was debating on a new piston and sleeve, but if that didn't work I was halfway to a new motor. So I just went for the 2.5R.
    Guess can't call it a .15 anymore huh. Well I have the 2.5R motor together and mounted up and finishing up with the conversion kit.
    Debating if I want to dump the exhaust fumes out the body, or drill a new hole in the chassis plate to spew it out the bottom.

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  23. #103
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    What you guys tbink:
    Exhaust coming out the side, or drill hole in the chassis to make it shoot out of the bottom?

    With the pipe out the side, the silicone line is in a wierd place.

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  24. #104
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    Here's what I mean with it side shooting

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  25. #105
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    Personal preference. No matter what the rear tire and arms are going to get covered in exhaust and the pressure line will still have to wrap around the rear of the head.

    Try it side and if you don't like it then through the bottom.
    The Super Derecho

  26. #106
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    Side all the way. I'm against drilling holes in chassis unless I'm going to mount something in it, and I think it will be a much better look out the side. Not to mention lessening the potential for dirt in the stinger, etc. I'm not sure you'd have to wrap the pressure line around the head. I think you have enough room to go under the head between the carb. If the pressure line is long just coil it and place the coiled part next to the exhaust. BTW, that yellow heat shield on your fuel line should be down by the carb inlet. Assuming you know that, but just in case.

    I have a 3.3 T-Maxx that belonged to a buddy who passed away. It has been sitting at my house unused (okay, run maybe twice) since he passed away. He was crazy about that truck and I kept thinking I should restore to its former glory. Your thread has now turned what was a small itch into a bad case of poison ivy, so thanks for that ha ha. Just ordered a full set of bearings, away we go. Seems fitting, he passed 10 years ago to the day today. I'll be sure to take pics.

    PS I think grizzly03 said it already, but if the crank bearings and carb are good on that .15 it should be easily rebuildable. I'd get the P/S set and rebuild just to be able to have it all original.

  27. #107
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    Side shooter it is! Just had to drill a hole for the hanger. Could have bent up the kit bar, but i went this route.

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  28. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjtamu-redux View Post
    Side all the way. I'm against drilling holes in chassis unless I'm going to mount something in it, and I think it will be a much better look out the side. Not to mention lessening the potential for dirt in the stinger, etc. I'm not sure you'd have to wrap the pressure line around the head. I think you have enough room to go under the head between the carb. If the pressure line is long just coil it and place the coiled part next to the exhaust. BTW, that yellow heat shield on your fuel line should be down by the carb inlet. Assuming you know that, but just in case.

    I have a 3.3 T-Maxx that belonged to a buddy who passed away. It has been sitting at my house unused (okay, run maybe twice) since he passed away. He was crazy about that truck and I kept thinking I should restore to its former glory. Your thread has now turned what was a small itch into a bad case of poison ivy, so thanks for that ha ha. Just ordered a full set of bearings, away we go. Seems fitting, he passed 10 years ago to the day today. I'll be sure to take pics.

    PS I think grizzly03 said it already, but if the crank bearings and carb are good on that .15 it should be easily rebuildable. I'd get the P/S set and rebuild just to be able to have it all original.
    Yes definitely moved the tubing. I cant find the other yellow one. Hope the black auto heat shield is ok to use. Going to the store, when i come back its systems check and break in time.
    That .15 motor would have been nice to keep but I traded it with the Powerul Program.



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  29. #109
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    I can't wait till you get that thing fired up also! Looks great. Take your time breaking in the engine and you should have fun for a long time.

    If your worried about the pressure line on the header you can move it. I've run my pressure line in front of the engine before, making sure it didn't interfere with the throttle linkage and never had a problem.

  30. #110
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    Took some time on my lunch break to prep and get ready. Poured over and reread the motor manual for anything i missed. You know I had to take some finished photos.. it won't look like this again for a while lol! I will move the one line to the front like grizzly03 suggested. Can't wait to get done with work. Friday!!

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  31. #111
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    @Cjtamu be sure to post your link to your 3.3 rebuild. Can't wait to see it happen. I was gifted this tmaxx a year ago. It was his daughter's that passed way too young. I tried to keep it as original as possible

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  32. #112
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    That looks excellent. Can't wait to see it fired up! The routing grizzly03 suggested is what I was trying to describe. No worries on the heat shield on pressure line, really not needed.

    Sounds like you're new to nitro, so a few tuning tips. 1. Always tune from rich to lean. 2. Have your idle gap set properly BEFORE you start to tune. That will help you avoid false idles. Can fine tune a little later, but you want to be within the acceptable window. 3. After you have it running right on the top end, use the pinch test to check the bottom. It's actually mentioned in the Traxxas manual. I think they say 2-3 seconds. I generally shoot for a hair longer than that for playing around. Good luck, great looking truck!

    Edit: Ahh, that's so sad, but great you're keeping it going. When my buddy passed away he had bought a truggy to try racing, but never got to. We set up a deal with one of the local tracks and I ran the first qualifier with his truck and transponder, with his name entered in the computer. His wife and granddaughter were there and we gave them the printout. Meant a lot to them, hopefully keeping the T-maxx going will to her family as well. All my race vehicles have my name beneath the driver's window. I put his under the passenger window so on the extremely rare these days times I race he still gets to ride along.
    Last edited by cjtamu-redux; 08-14-2020 at 02:07 PM.

  33. #113
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    Cjtamu, thank you again!

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  34. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjtamu-redux View Post
    That looks excellent. Can't wait to see it fired up! The routing grizzly03 suggested is what I was trying to describe. No worries on the heat shield on pressure line, really not needed.

    Sounds like you're new to nitro, so a few tuning tips. 1. Always tune from rich to lean. 2. Have your idle gap set properly BEFORE you start to tune. That will help you avoid false idles. Can fine tune a little later, but you want to be within the acceptable window. 3. After you have it running right on the top end, use the pinch test to check the bottom. It's actually mentioned in the Traxxas manual. I think they say 2-3 seconds. I generally shoot for a hair longer than that for playing around. Good luck, great looking truck!

    Edit: Ahh, that's so sad, but great you're keeping it going. When my buddy passed away he had bought a truggy to try racing, but never got to. We set up a deal with one of the local tracks and I ran the first qualifier with his truck and transponder, with his name entered in the computer. His wife and granddaughter were there and we gave them the printout. Meant a lot to them, hopefully keeping the T-maxx going will to her family as well. All my race vehicles have my name beneath the driver's window. I put his under the passenger window so on the extremely rare these days times I race he still gets to ride along.
    This helped alot. Got it started and going.. After a bit it was moving forward at idle and was hard to stop. Pinched fuel line and it cut out quick.. I richened the idle screw to where it stopped moving forward and the idle did slowed down. Had to do this a few times with the first tank. Was hitting it 1/4 throttle for 2 secs the brakes to stop. Finally when tank was almost empty pinched it and cut out 3-4 secs

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  35. #115
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    I should have mentioned. The gap on a slide carburetor should generally be between 0.5 to 1 mm at idle. That's where you want to set it to tune and break in. And I assume you mean you richened the low speed needle (flat head screw in the middle of the carburetor housing) rather than the idle screw. Idle screw is set the gap and leave alone for the most part. You can open it a little using the throttle trim on the radio if needed to help start the truck. Sounds like it's going great so far!

  36. #116
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Is this the adjustment screw you adjusted? This is the Low Speed Needle (LSN)

  37. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Is this the adjustment screw you adjusted? This is the Low Speed Needle (LSN)
    Yes sorry, you were both right. The low speed is what I adjusted and richened. The idle gap is perfect lkke you mentioned.
    Sorry I had a migraine attack right after the first tank of fuel. Got pretty sick and just woke up.
    I'll have to continue the break in tomorrow. Gonna go out and drain thst tiny bit of fuel in the tank.


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  38. #118
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    Did the after run procedure with after run oil. I'll make sure to do this immediately next time instead of a few hours after. Also using VP Racing duel 20%. Until tomorrow.

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  39. #119
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    *VP Powermaster 20% fuel

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  40. #120
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    VP makes good fuel. If you’re storing the truck inside and running it again the next day you don’t need to use the after run. But I would drain the tank and burn the excess fuel from the engine before putting up. After run if it’s going to sit more than a day.

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