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  1. #1
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    Bearing Problems

    I swapped my truck to aluminum steering blocks in the front and purchased heavy duty metal drive shafts after crashing and destroying the stock ones. Now I am shredding bearings (both inner and outer) on the front. Sometimes 5 minutes into running they are all destroyed. I was looking for suggestions to fix this, whether it be better bearings, new axels, new steering components.

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier MECHANIC77's Avatar
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    Sometimes the wheels are so out of balance that the bearings can't handle the vibration and / or after a crash it's possible that the wheels turn false and this causes too much stress on the bearings. Also it's possible to balance the wheels but if some of them turn false, then there's nothing we can do besides changing the wheels that are false.



    And yes there are better bearings than the originals. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3259...27426c37mntuaS
    Last edited by MECHANIC77; 06-30-2020 at 10:17 PM.
    Good driver. Bad setup. Bad things will happen...

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by MECHANIC77 View Post
    Sometimes the wheels are so out of balance that the bearings can't handle the vibration and / or after a crash it's possible that the wheels turn false and this causes too much stress on the bearings. Also it's possible to balance the wheels but if some of them turn false, then there's nothing we can do besides changing the wheels that are false.



    And yes there are better bearings than the originals. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3259...27426c37mntuaS
    I put brand new wheels on it today and still shredded all 4 bearings within 15 minutes of driving in a field.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikeg383881 View Post
    I swapped my truck to aluminum steering blocks in the front and purchased heavy duty metal drive shafts after crashing and destroying the stock ones. Now I am shredding bearings (both inner and outer) on the front. Sometimes 5 minutes into running they are all destroyed. I was looking for suggestions to fix this, whether it be better bearings, new axels, new steering components.
    Do you mean aluminum caster blocks? Did you buy the original traxxas drive shafts or cheap after market? Original shafts are 6851R (front) and 6852R (back). There is a good chance that if you bought cheap after market ones they are not an exact fit, that is what I suspect without having more information. Would help if you also posted pictures.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vulgi View Post
    Do you mean aluminum caster blocks? Did you buy the original traxxas drive shafts or cheap after market? Original shafts are 6851R (front) and 6852R (back). There is a good chance that if you bought cheap after market ones they are not an exact fit, that is what I suspect without having more information. Would help if you also posted pictures.
    Most everything is now aluminum. They were not Traxxas drive shafts, but weren't cheap either.

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/189143.../shares/y0TK38

  6. #6
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    The problem is written right on the side of the parts. They may look pretty but have ugly performance.
    The Super Derecho

  7. #7
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    But which part is causing the problem is my main concern.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikeg383881 View Post
    But which part is causing the problem is my main concern.
    I'd start with the ones that you added most recently. Reading back, it sounds like maybe you added the C-blocks/Steering-blocks and the drive shafts at the same time? I'd pick one, and convert it back to Traxxas Stock parts. If it's still eating bearings, then change the other one back to Traxxas Stock parts.

    I have zero experience with Integy parts (so what follows is just hear-say), but as Double G alluded to - they don't have the best reputation for quality.

    Good Luck, and let us know how it works out --BillJ

  9. #9
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikeg383881 View Post
    But which part is causing the problem is my main concern.
    Looking at your driveshafts, it looks like they slide apart. Do they only fit one way when sliding together? If they can slide together at any rotation I'll bet that's the problem. Driveshafts need to be clocked correctly or they bind and vibrate horribly, which will eat up bearings.

    They need to be clocked like in this picture. The pivot points need to match. (Same as how the stock Traxxas shafts are)


  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Agreed.

    Are your CVDs correctly phased?



    Read this thread:
    https://traxxas.com/forums/showthrea...hlight=phasing[/QUOTE]

    Good luck and have fun!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  11. #11
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    grizzly03, Squeegie:
    Thanks for pointing this out... I learned something today! ;-)
    --BillJ

  12. #12
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    Put back stock axels and steering and caster blocks and problem went away. But snapped a drive shaft after 45 minutes. Ordered MIP driveshafts and will see how long stock caster and steering blocks last.
    Thank you for the help.

  13. #13
    RC Qualifier MECHANIC77's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikeg383881 View Post
    I put brand new wheels on it today and still shredded all 4 bearings within 15 minutes of driving in a field.

    The problem could be a number of things and I need to proceed by elimination to find it, so can you show me a photo or point me on a link of which driving shafts you are running on. Also it's possible to check the lateral oscillation of the wheels by putting the truck upside down and by giving throttle with moderation we can see if the wheels oscillates, some oscillation is normal but anything more than 1/4 inch (6.4mm) is too much for the bearings. Another thing which can cause bearings problem is water infiltration inside of the wheels, the fact is that when water gets inside by the two breathing holes of the rims, the amount of water that every hole will absorb is not the same on each side, therefore this causes a heavier mass on one side of the wheel and this tends to create an up and down movement which results in a breaking point of the bearings.
    Last edited by MECHANIC77; 07-01-2020 at 01:18 PM.
    Good driver. Bad setup. Bad things will happen...

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    It could just be that the bearing seats aren't perfectly correct for the bearing crush space, so when you tighten the wheel, it puts side load on the bearings. That will fry a bearing within minutes.

    I had that issue with my MIP's on the rear, the spacers they included weren't quite right with the alloy hubs I had and I had to figure out proper shims to put between the bearings so they wouldn't bind when I tightened down the wheel nuts.

    I know integy stuff looks nice, but their measurements aren't that great. All the P2 alloy rockers I've bought for revo's require spacers for the same reason. When installed, the top bearing is about 1mm too high, so when you tighten the pivot bolt, it crushes the bearings from the side.

    On my savage's, I run integy rear axle carriers, they have the opposite issue. The bearings are closer to each other and cause slop when the wheel hex is installed. A few shims on the axle before putting the hex on fixes that. That's an easier issue to solve than finding shims/spacers that will fit inside the carrier between the bearings.
    Last edited by olds97_lss; 07-02-2020 at 01:01 PM.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  15. #15
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    A stampede that I did full aluminum job from integy also shredded bearings nearly every run. I will never buy integy anything again. Looks pretty , but the tolerances are garbage.

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