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  1. #1
    RC poster
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    E-Revo stock shocks

    My new E-Revo shocks seem to be to too soft which is causing bottoming out and scraping the bottom of the frame. Is there anything I can do with stock shocks? Would it be better to rebuilt or replace?

  2. #2
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    You can add different weight oil to speed up or slow down the shock and there are also heavier or lighter springs available. Usually when going to a heavier oil you would also go to a heavier spring also. Going heavier oil and springs will help the bottoming out.

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    ^What he said.

    Welcome to the Traxxas forums!

    Also, have you tried tightening the shock collars on your shocks? Doing this will add pre-load to your shocks.

    Good luck and have fun!
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  4. #4
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Second what others said. Try preloading shocks. By turning the collar.

    Go to heavier springs. And oil. If going for big air.

    Really depending on how big you jump are you will not eliminate the chassis slap on landing.

    I think I got heaviest springs in rear, one step up in front and 70wt oil.

    Welcome and happy bashing!


    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    No matter what you do, it's going to bottom out pretty hard. I went as high as 90wt with vdk #2 pistons and blue/purple springs. All that did was snap my pistons in half and it still bottomed out off a 5 foot jump. Now I just live with it bottoming out and accept it as a thing that it's going to do. It doesn't seem to hurt it much and it recovers pretty quickly.

    I'm running P2 rockers/rods, vdk #2, 60wt oil and RC Raven dual rate springs on my ERBEv2 currently and it does well enough.

    Bottoming out was more of an issue on my nitro revo's back in the day as the repeated slapping of the ground would cause the motor mount/brace to crack, the engine bay area to crack as well as the exhaust headers to snap off. So I still run a bit heavier oil in those with a bit stiffer spring, but I don't air them out nearly as much as my ERBEv2. They seem to hold up really well sitting on my shelf while I drive my electrics anyway.

    I did put a steel wear plate on the rear as it sags hard on the face of a jump which will grind through the rear skid in a matter of a single set of packs. I replace the plate once a year or so as it grinds down over time. I had to do the same on my stampede 4x4, eJato and outcast as all of them would get their skids ground through quickly. The concrete ate my skate park is really coarse. Can't imagine what it does to a kids knees, hands and elbows...
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier
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    Yeah, like others said. Chassis slap is pretty normal. Matter of fact if you go to a race track, even high end race buggies and truggies do it. If you stiffen it up to the point where this does not happen, you’ll snap and bend things. Plus super stiff set up will make it otherwise perform and handle really poorly.


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  7. #7
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    My test is pick car up to my belt height and drop it. If it slaps I change setup. But this is bashing vs track / speed.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    RC poster
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    ^What he said.

    Welcome to the Traxxas forums!

    Also, have you tried tightening the shock collars on your shocks? Doing this will add pre-load to your shocks.

    Good luck and have fun!
    I'm try this first and if it still bottom on small jumps then go with 70wt oil.

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