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  1. #1
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    Xmaxx servo spring large spring

    What are some of you ,meaning how much do you turn the spring down
    Thank you
    Kevin

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier Flux Capacitor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tirepressure View Post
    What are some of you ,meaning how much do you turn the spring down
    Thank you
    Kevin
    I had an extensive debate with my fellow forum members in this thread:

    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...eering-gremlin

    I run with the heavy duty spring that you get with the 2085X and run with it completely locked down now that I have a DS630BLHV ProModeler servo. The saver still works in the locked down position and I have no idea why others disagree other than they are running a servo that can't handle the heavy duty servo saver.

    I checked the thread recently and all the pictures are still there, so it is an informative thread and a good read.

    I also have the nyloc nut on the bottom of my saver once again like outlined in the thread because that darn heavy duty spring keeps ripping the threads out of the stock plastic piece.

    Haven't had a single problem with my steering since locking it down and switching to the ProModeler servo.
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  3. #3
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    Thank you ,i was thinking of getting the pro modeler servo,is there a debate on the servo mod
    Thank you Kevin N.J

  4. #4
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Mines the same, tightened down. Same as it came from the factory. The way I look at it is if it's suppose to be adjustable why is it not shown in the manual?

    Even in their video they tighten it down: youtube/traxxas 2085x install?

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier Flux Capacitor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tirepressure View Post
    Thank you ,i was thinking of getting the pro modeler servo,is there a debate on the servo mod
    Thank you Kevin N.J
    Not so much a debate as a necessity. The servo saver mod needs done because there is no other way to keep the screw in the piece one it is stripped.

    You have to use a screw that is about 5mm longer and a 3mm nyloc nut. The nut comes close to the raised post that the bearing slides over and I had mine apart just the other day to confirm that the nut wasn't rubbing the top of that post.

    You'll need to modify the specialized clamp tool I outlined in that thread in order to compress the spring to thread the screw into the nyloc nut.

    I outlined it in that thread.

    The only other way around it is to buy all aluminum steering components; but that starts down a path of debatable pros and cons that will be argued as long as the hobby is around!

    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Mines the same, tightened down. Same as it came from the factory. The way I look at it is if it's suppose to be adjustable why is it not shown in the manual?

    Even in their video they tighten it down: youtube/traxxas 2085x install?
    Good point and I finally was able to rest my weary head about the debatable tension on a design that was meant to be put together only one way. I deduced that just from looking at the design of it.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 07-14-2020 at 11:21 AM. Reason: Quoted Grizzly!
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    Mine is tightened down, and I use a stainless washer to tight the spring a little more, because I use a more torque servo instead the stock one.
    Last edited by Juanmacine; 07-14-2020 at 11:31 AM.

  7. #7
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    I locked mine all the way down. But mine stripped yesterday. I went to a 4mm screw and a bit longer length. So it can start threading in before needing to compress the spring.



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    No i meant the pro modeler servo do you have to mod it to be used on truck
    Kevin N.J

  9. #9
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tirepressure View Post
    No i meant the pro modeler servo do you have to mod it to be used on truck
    Kevin N.J
    For the promolder you need to select beam mod when adding to cart. And also get adapter. The 630 Servos are backordered won't be any made for a while.

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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tirepressure View Post
    No i meant the pro modeler servo do you have to mod it to be used on truck
    Kevin N.J
    As the brand specifications, yes, you need to made de beam mod, the measures are little different than other servos, each brand has his own specs. Other way is you made by your hand this mod, the brand maintains their warranty.


  11. #11
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tirepressure View Post
    No i meant the pro modeler servo do you have to mod it to be used on truck
    Yes. Flux Capacitor shown why in post #7 in the other thread. -Pro-modeler-servo

  12. #12
    RC Qualifier Flux Capacitor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Yes. Flux Capacitor shown why in post #7 in the other thread. -Pro-modeler-servo
    Thank you Grizzly.

    I was a little busy in another thread and missed some replies here.
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  13. #13
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    Bumping this thread to consolidate info for searching. So I've got the new ProModeler 930 servo installed and no other steering upgrades to this point. Unsurprisingly, the stock steering bell-crank and servo saver are not cutting it. It seems like most of the servo's torque is being absorbed by the stock servo saver. I was initially going to upgrade to the stiffer spring and adjustable linkage (7746X) that comes with the 2085X servo kit but can't find it in stock anywhere.

    While looking for a suitable alternative, I dug this thread up and it seems like stripping the plastic threads on the stock servo saver was a problem for you guys. I'm hoping to learn from all of the previous experience you guys have had and do this right the first time so my question is, is there any good reason to avoid using an aluminum bell-crank/servo-saver option like the one from Hot Racing? Any other decent brands you guys would recommend? (GPM and Entegy don't really give me warm fuzzies)

    Thanks
    Last edited by cgrant26; 08-07-2020 at 03:30 PM.

  14. #14
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cgrant26 View Post
    Bumping this thread to consolidate info for searching. So I've got the new ProModeler 930 servo installed and no other steering upgrades to this point. Unsurprisingly, the stock steering bell-crank and servo saver are not cutting it. It seems like most of the servo's torque is being absorbed by the stock servo saver. I was initially going to upgrade to the stiffer spring and adjustable linkage (7746X) that comes with the 2085X servo kit but can't find it in stock anywhere.

    While looking for a suitable alternative, I dug this thread up and it seems like stripping the plastic threads on the stock servo saver was a problem for you guys. I'm hoping to learn from all of the previous experience you guys have had and do this right the first time so my question is, is there any good reason to avoid using an aluminum bell-crank/servo-saver option like the one from Hot Racing? Any other decent brands you guys would recommend? (GPM and Entegy don't really give me warm fuzzies)

    Thanks
    Yeah I can see the 930 overpowering some of the stock parts. The heaver spring would be a must. Perhaps may want to also shim it with a washer to make it even stiffer?

    I don't have any experience outside of the trx parts in this area so can't help there.

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  15. #15
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    Yeah I can see the 930 overpowering some of the stock parts. The heaver spring would be a must. Perhaps may want to also shim it with a washer to make it even stiffer?
    That's what I would try first also. A small washer to compress the spring some more. I've done the same thing on my Erevo. It only costs the price of a washer and your time installing it. The only other thing I would do when installing a washer would be to use a longer screw so I could put a nut on it to help from possible stripped threads from the extra spring force.

    Flux Capacitor had some pics showing adding the longer screw and locknut.
    I think this is the thread:https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...eering-gremlin

    If I wanted to upgrade I probably would go with the Hot Racing one.
    (Don't know why this statement got cut off)
    Last edited by grizzly03; 08-07-2020 at 04:57 PM. Reason: posting glitch

  16. #16
    RC Qualifier Flux Capacitor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Flux Capacitor had some pics showing adding the longer screw and locknut.
    I think this is the thread:https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...eering-gremlin

    If I wanted to upgrade

    That is the thread and I finally found my dog after that incident of trying to compress the heavy duty spring with my fingers while juggling a nut and 2.5mm hex wrench all at the same time. That Quick-GRiP made it a lot easier with a lot less swearing!

    That is the reason the dog hid and I couldn't find him, because he knows foul language and knows I'm mad when I use it.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flux Capacitor View Post
    That is the thread and I finally found my dog after that incident of trying to compress the heavy duty spring with my fingers while juggling a nut and 2.5mm hex wrench all at the same time. That Quick-GRiP made it a lot easier with a lot less swearing!

    That is the reason the dog hid and I couldn't find him, because he knows foul language and knows I'm mad when I use it.
    Thanks for the advice guys! One of my local hobby shops happened to have the HT steering bell-crank assembly in stock so I broke down and picked it up. It comes with 2 springs for the servo saver; a medium spring and a heavy spring. I opted for the heavy spring to start with. It took an act of Congress to get the upper spring cup threaded on the barrel with the stiff spring but I ended up using my 17mm wheel nut wrench to push down on it while turning and I was able to get on. I used a little grease on the threads to prevent galling. I'm confident the pressure of the spring against the spring seats will keep the top perch from backing off so I don't expect any issues with that.

    What I'll be keeping an eye on now are the plastic nubs on the bulkhead that the bell crank seats on as well as the stock plastic tie rods. I might end up going back to the medium spring as it's still stronger than the stock Traxxas spring by a pretty good margin. Should be a good test for the Pro Modeler servo.

    I also grabbed a set of belted wheels as the stock ones really don't like the new 19/46 ratio. Once those things balloon up the truck is a real PITA to control at speed. Hopefully it's got much better manners with these new wheels. (Power Hobby Scorpion XL)
    Last edited by cgrant26; 08-08-2020 at 03:46 AM.

  18. #18
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    can anyone please post or link a video of how their servo saver works when testing it manually? when i lock mine down, there is no way i can move the top half so it unlatches from the V retainer. is that as designed?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by varunaX View Post
    can anyone please post or link a video of how their servo saver works when testing it manually? when i lock mine down, there is no way i can move the top half so it unlatches from the V retainer. is that as designed?
    Look at this videos, mate.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gSZqhPSVHNI

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_L1fDEZhw4

  20. #20
    RC Qualifier Flux Capacitor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by varunaX View Post
    can anyone please post or link a video of how their servo saver works when testing it manually? when i lock mine down, there is no way i can move the top half so it unlatches from the V retainer. is that as designed?
    Click the blue underlined word "THREAD" below and have a good read as all the pictures are still active in the thread.

    This THREAD outlines extensively what I thought was a servo saver problem and had the concerns that you mention.

    I couldn't budge mine either from its closed position but you have to remember the servo saver is working from impacts received through the steering assembly. Trying to twist it manually to get it to work is not how it is designed to work.

    It works from receiving blunt force impacts and when I did that, I could see that it was working normally.

    Really do have a look at the thread and remember a ProModeler is your best friend when it comes to reliable steering for the X-Maxx.
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  21. #21
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    Thx for the videos and that thread. I did read through it but didn't really get a final conclusion if tightening the screw till the pieces are flush is too tight or not,as I see others saying "just loosen your servo saver a bit"

    My 2nd 2085x just died on me so I'm trying to figure out why. I'm reluctant to drop 200$ on a servo, but if you can vouch that your promodeler didn't have the same issues then...

  22. #22
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    My $.02. The servo saver should be tightened down. They way it is made it can only tighten down only so far anyways. Also if it was suppose to be adjustable it would be explained in the manual or in the Traxxas videos. By not tightening the screw down all the way your not getting the designed amount of screw threads engaged and can lead to stripped threads or the screw pulling out.

  23. #23
    RC Qualifier Flux Capacitor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by varunaX View Post
    Thx for the videos and that thread. I did read through it but didn't really get a final conclusion if tightening the screw till the pieces are flush is too tight or not,as I see others saying "just loosen your servo saver a bit"
    As grizzly pointed out, there are no specific instructions in the manual to suggest the servo saver is adjustable. So, I tightened mine down to where all pieces are flush. The design itself suggests that it cannot be over tightened; but I can say that the screw will strip at some point (even if tightened all the way down) and you will be left having to do the modification with the nut on the end of a longer screw.

    Quote Originally Posted by varunaX View Post
    My 2nd 2085x just died on me so I'm trying to figure out why.
    The reason why is evident and all over this forum. However Traxxas will not verify why because it would cost them more than just replacing servos. In other words, when the servo overheats and causes a loss of steering while you are going 35mph or just dies as yours did and causes several hundred dollars of damage to the truck, do you really think Traxxas is going to admit that is what's happening?

    If they admitted the problem with their 2085 and 2085X servos, they would be opening themselves up to a chain of events scenario where someone could say the reason their chassis cracked or their bulkheads snapped is because they lost steering using the 2085 or 2085X servos.

    It probably wouldn't be far from the truth that the servos failing caused the other damage; but Traxxas isn't going to open themselves up to having to replace an entire truck because a $100 part failed.

    Quote Originally Posted by varunaX View Post
    I'm reluctant to drop 200$ on a servo, but if you can vouch that your promodeler didn't have the same issues then...
    I can tell you that my ProModeler DS630BLHV has not had a single problem with the heavy duty spring setup or the saver being in the fully tightened position.
    Last edited by Flux Capacitor; 09-29-2020 at 11:25 AM. Reason: Fixed.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by varunaX View Post
    Thx for the videos and that thread. I did read through it but didn't really get a final conclusion if tightening the screw till the pieces are flush is too tight or not,as I see others saying "just loosen your servo saver a bit"

    My 2nd 2085x just died on me so I'm trying to figure out why. I'm reluctant to drop 200$ on a servo, but if you can vouch that your promodeler didn't have the same issues then...
    You can try a JX 46kg servo, I use this without issues.

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