Took a few years away from the hobby but decided to splurge and pick up an xmaxx. So far I love this thing. It’s an amazing piece of machinery. I figure I’ll leave this one stock til I start breaking things or get comfortable enough to need hop ups. Anyways after my first two batteries I did an inspection and I noticed two very thin metal rings that were hanging around the rear driveshafts loose and beat up.
What are these and should i be worried or need repair already? I literally just ran it around some bumpy grass lol. I didn’t see this part in the exploded view but I may have missed it in my haste.
Thanks.
X-MAXX, Stampede VXL 4x4, Spartan
They are the bearing seals. Mine did the same thing with the stock bearings.
I would pick up a bearing set if the seals are falling out. AVID is awesome for bearings. 1$ a bearing.
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They are the seals to the inner hub carrier bearings.
The pressure from landing or hard bumps will make the seals pop off. Can try to just press them back on and be good to go for a bit.
Ideal get the rpm oversized rear hub carriers. They come with a new bearings that is larger and gives like 300% more load capacity. Also must grease them as no grease in them Also get the rpm threaded hinge pins. ( Do not put on the front top carriers, as it will reduce steering)
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Hi mate, congrats for your monster, this thin metal rings are the bearing seals, the stock rear bearings are not enough good, you can change it for a better ones. You can view it in the exploded views, and can download the documents in the support section of Traxxas website.
ahh ok, thanks! maybe I will pick up those RPM Rear axle carriers then![]()
X-MAXX, Stampede VXL 4x4, Spartan
+1 for rpm rear carriers. Must have. They don't make oversized bearing carriers for the front. Pick up spare inner bearings for the front. They take a beating, and are so thin that they wear out quickly.
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The thing I broke most often, were the plastic steer links. I broke 4 in 3 summers. So they still last a long time. They are cheap and a 3 min easy fix in the field. I suggest not upgrading them, just replace with stock so cheap just order a set for backup.
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I've yet to break the steering links but have broken 6 a arms. In 4 months ****ed rouge trees popping up magically.
Truck does take quite the beating.
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I broke 3 ft arms in that time, only 1 was a horrible driving decision lol. They are 10$ per arm. People had issues with rpm arms, I figured it was easier and cheaper to just replace with stock.
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After spending all evening fixing some problems on my St4mpede, (wow it feels tiny now) I ordered the axle Carriers and The bumper mounts. Now I’m kinda regretting not picking up the A arms and some threaded hinge pins so I have them ready just in case. I’ll look at picking up some extra parts as suggested above.
Been reading about the servo upgrade and the promodeler And down The rabbit hole I go![]()
X-MAXX, Stampede VXL 4x4, Spartan
If you go the rpm a arm route will probably want the threaded hinge pins. As arms flex enough to pop over the pins.
Trx did come out with a beefier a arm now and in multiple colors. So are 3 options on a arm upgrades,. Trx hd, Rpm and proline.
No idea who is best.
I never had a rpm a arm break till xmaxx. Just mailed in 2 for warranty today. No slowly started upgrading my a arm as I broke them.
In a month or two the promolder 630 servo may be back in stock. Even with the 2085x servo I'd get a aluminum horn for it. Kinda wish I knew of promodeler before I got my 2085x servo.
Oh glue / duct tape your tire holes on rims closed so water / grit doesn't get in. Perhaps make holes on outside of tires.
Fiber tape mod body while still good. And tailgate restrictor mod. Will help the body last. Mine without this lasted a month perhaps 2 with heavy bashing not landing jumps.
Happy bashing
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Look at the Traxxas HD arms as an upgrade option
. RPM on this heavy of a truck isn’t necessarily a good thing.
You can get cool colors too
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Got it out today in the park with a couple of skate ramps and noticed a few things
1) Battery Connectors - These have never felt tight and when I had any fast summersaults it would come unclipped. Are there any easy fixes for this?
2) Body coming loose - I mean this one could be user error but my body came loose a few times throughout the day on hard crashes. I was pretty sure I had both under the supports, is this a common thing? Are there any quick fixes if it is not user error?
Others then that, this is a really great truck and I am having a blast with it. I need to learn some Air Control, but that will come with time and practice.
X-MAXX, Stampede VXL 4x4, Spartan
1. My batteries are now starting to come loose as well. Check for any melting inside connectors. Also perhaps zip tie the ends from the esc to the top rail. This will keep them from flopping around. Other options are changing out connectors on esc and batteries... never had issues with xt90s on my erevo2
2. This common if you hit the body in just the right way. See my post about how to fix this. Since fix so far I think I've had my body pop off 3 times due to bad landings. Way better than it popping off on every hard good landing.
I would fiber tape and shoe goo body and do tailgate restrictor mod. To keep you body from lasting. Mine only last 2 to 3 months before whole back half was gone. I've since gone to a alternative unmentionable body. And been quite happy with it.
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Thanks Acidic01. I'll try to look up those mods. Also one more Noob Question with the Traxxas Link Telemetry, what exactly is the Voltage telling me? What should it be at running two 4s 6700 Batteries. It always seems to be staying near 6 no matter how long I was running.
X-MAXX, Stampede VXL 4x4, Spartan
For the restrition back of the X-Maxx body, I install this piece.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-Xma...72.m2749.l2648
Yep, the default on the 8S X-Maxx telemetry is to display Receiver voltage. You have to go into the dashboard settings in Traxxas Link and change it to ESC voltage. I deleted the receiver voltage gauge and created a "Battery Voltage" gauge in it's place using ESC voltage.
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Last edited by cgrant26; 07-27-2020 at 06:02 PM.
Here is the post that that talks about the tailgate restrictor mod.
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app
Issue is that when the truck lands on the tailgate area. It presses down on it and bends the body over the shock towers. After a while the body will break. At the shock towers and putter roll cage area. . By putting a price of L or I cannel aluminum to the rear bumper it stops the body from curling under. And giving the body a bit more life span.
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This does look like a 3d printed version. You can get a piece of aluminum L channel or U at home depot for 5$ for 3ft... Cut and drill some holes and your in biz. Smart of that ebayer for making something we can use for those that rather spend by make.
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I tried to share a while back but got busy while trying to post. Here is my fix on the body popping off.
Not 100% fool proof. But I'm. It sure there is one. But it has been working. Of course the right kind crash at the right angle will still make the body pop off due to the body flexing in on itself. But this does make it much more secure.
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app
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Thanks Acidic01. These links will be super helpful. Now I need to create a shopping list![]()
X-MAXX, Stampede VXL 4x4, Spartan
Yes the body sits with in the U channel when on the truck.
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After I shoogoo the entire cage to the body on the inside on the roof area, the body never popped off again.
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