Hey guys. Are the stock servo gear worth upgrading to metal or should I upgrade to the heavy duty ones? I want to run dual, but single though I know most recommend that. I've not had much luck with this thing and I've only had it run on flat ground. It's this normal...? I had a thread a while ago about a stripped pinion gear I believe it was.
Ideal is to go to a good single servo over 300 oz/in. But at min get the metal gears for the 2075 servos.
Also have to make sure both servos are set up perfectly nap that they don't fight each other.
And perhaps metal gear servo saver spring.
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I was looking into two of the 2255, in grass I can't make turns without first moving the car. If I go metal gears in stock servos, it'll be the same torque. If I go With two 2255, will it have more than enough torque to turn when I need it to? Also, what does the spring do? Is it hard to align dual servo?
If you go with that servo only 1 is needed. As 400 oz/in at 6v.
2075 servo is 125oz/in. So two gets u about 250 oz/in
A stiffer servo saver spring helps when you have a stronger servo. That way it turns the tires instead of just activating the servo saver.
Setting up two servos takes time and patience. And IMHO just way better and easier to just go with 1 servo. Less modes of failure.
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I just went through the same thing. After doing research, I went with a single servo set up. Ended up buying the savox sw1212sg. It's rated at 638 oz of torque at 7.4v. so it's probably around 500 oz at the 6v that the Traxxas esc puts out. Plenty of power and cost me 92 bucks. Plus the HD servo saver of course. I just got done installing everything today. I probably won't get to run it for another week, unfortunately. I'll post back up and let ya know how I like it after I run it. On a side note, I did have to shave off the little "nubs" that line up the front of the stock servo to get a savox to sit in correctly. Just a heads up on that.
I see the metal gears are about $45 to buy the set for both. Would it be worth it to rebuild them or just double the price & by a single servo? If I go with single servo, what else is needed and do they make a block off plate for the other side?
Traxxas plate doesn't fit properly as its not specific to the E Revo 2.0. A lot of us have made our own or purchased one custom printed through Shapeways which is a perfect fit and looks great!
Here ya go!
https://www.shapeways.com/product/5H...vo-cover-plate
Last edited by RICK DIZZLE; 07-28-2020 at 07:02 PM.
So if I get the block off plate & the servo, do I need any other parts?
If I buy the 2255, can someone help me pick the servo spring as well as any linkages I'll need?
You can either get the Traxxas HD spring #5344X or some have installed a small washer as a shim to compress the stock spring slightly instead.
The stock linkage will work. You would only remove the linkage rod that's not needed on the side without the servo.
And the horn?
Stock horn works perfect...that is what I have on my 2255.
I bought the 2255. I can't justify $20 for a block off plate from the company linked. What needs modification on the traxxas version?
I was going to cut of the small protrusions near the mounting holes and drill out the holes slightly so a screw can slid through the holes into the chassis.
I even thought about taking an old servo and using as a cover. Take it apart and use the top part with the mounting tabs.
I'd like a plug & play option. The other block off plate to my door is $20. Too expensive. I'm thinking lexan unless somebody knows of other plates?
If you want to make a plate. Can use a lid from a tin can. Use some small wood screw. Or a self tap screw to hold it on.
May need a nut and bolt to hold it.. I'd have to look at car to be positive... that you can get from a hardware store.( Fyi home depot and the like do have a good selection of screws that fit our rc cars when you need some on off stuff, and cheaper than lhs. Or if you got some spare stuff laying around. Cost is free then..
Or take whatever plastics you may have laying around. Old containers ect.
Probably only take 5 to 10 mins to make something that would work.
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Installed servo saver & servo. Need to charge batteries & try it and make block off plate. I installed the link without turning the vehicle on to center it. Do they come centered from the factory? Also, anything else I need to do before I run it?
You need to power on the servo via the truck, then install the servo arm as close to mechanically centered as possible. Then with TSM off, use the app to adjust sub trims to get it dead centered. Then you want to go into end points and set the servo end points so the servo stops driving just prior to the end of the mechanical limits of the steering. This will ensure you dont burn up the servo by trying to overdrive it.
So power on the truck with the arm off. Set arm to 90 degrees. Are the arms adjustable? If so ill try to get the wheels as humanly straight as possible and adjust the armso everything is good. Then turn off TSM and adjust trim if need be? Is there a way to set the trim as "center" via the app and re center the know on the remote?
Sorry bro...at work so slow responses. Yes truck on with power nothing on servo. TSM off, steering trim set to center. Install arm as close to 90 as possible. The servo may only be one or two teeth off from stock either direction. You can if you want adjust the arm adjustment as long as its a small adjustment. Then use subtrim and end points to dial it in. But you want TSM off from the very start. Otherwise if you shift your truck and dont know it, it will auto adjust and now be off center. Hope that helps.
Going to try and get it figured out today.