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Thread: Budget 4s esc

  1. #1
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    Budget 4s esc

    I recently got the p4de and Iím looking to run it on 4s. I have a Tekin 2650kv 1/8 sensored motor lying around and Iíd like to use that instead of having to buy a new motor. As the title says I need an esc. I also would like an upgrade list. I have aluminum shock towers, steel rear driveshafts and big bore aluminum shocks. I know I need front driveshafts, center driveshaft, a arms, E-Revo slipper and xo1 diffs.

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    If you wanna run it sensored, which I recommend, you should just get the mamba system. Itís a beast.


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  3. #3
    RC Qualifier GotNoRice's Avatar
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    Agreed, you need to decide if sensored operation is important to you or not.

    If it's not, then you could go with something like a Hobbywing Max8 or a Castle Sidewinder 8th.

    If sensored operation is important to you, then you could go with a Castle Mamba X or a Mamba Monster X. You would get the best results with the Mamba Monster X, but it's certainly not a "budget" ESC. The Mamba X is cheaper, but also much smaller, and you would likely hit thermal shutdown when trying to run an 8th scale motor if you really push the truck or if it's a hot day.

    You could search for an older used Castle Mamba Max Pro, the predecessor to the Mamba X that also supports sensored operation, but with similar downsides in terms of power handling.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GotNoRice View Post
    Agreed, you need to decide if sensored operation is important to you or not.

    If it's not, then you could go with something like a Hobbywing Max8 or a Castle Sidewinder 8th.

    If sensored operation is important to you, then you could go with a Castle Mamba X or a Mamba Monster X. You would get the best results with the Mamba Monster X, but it's certainly not a "budget" ESC. The Mamba X is cheaper, but also much smaller, and you would likely hit thermal shutdown when trying to run an 8th scale motor if you really push the truck or if it's a hot day.

    You could search for an older used Castle Mamba Max Pro, the predecessor to the Mamba X that also supports sensored operation, but with similar downsides in terms of power handling.
    I was going to get a cheaper one until I had enough for a castle. I have the sidewinder 3 in it right now and it gets really hot.

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Sidewinder 3 is intended for 1/10th sized motors I believe, so much over a 3665 sized motor is going to push it beyond it's capabilities. Even the sidewinder sct sv3 ran warm on a 3800kv 3660 motor on 3S.

    I run 1/8th electronics in mine, but I have a slash chassis, so I had room to easily put larger stuff in it. I run a 4074 2200kv and blx185 esc, but only on 3S. Seems to be enough for me so far.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    Sidewinder 3 is intended for 1/10th sized motors I believe, so much over a 3665 sized motor is going to push it beyond it's capabilities. Even the sidewinder sct sv3 ran warm on a 3800kv 3660 motor on 3S.

    I run 1/8th electronics in mine, but I have a slash chassis, so I had room to easily put larger stuff in it. I run a 4074 2200kv and blx185 esc, but only on 3S. Seems to be enough for me so far.
    Thanks for the advice. I have the 1/10 7700kv motor in it bc i needed a sensorless motor (I broke the shaft off my 3950kv goolrc.) the motor’s temps are only around 135 but the esc is veryyyy hot.

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    I found a sensorless esc and Iím thinking abt getting the 1/10 spectrum firma 3150kv motor. It has a 5mm shaft so I can find gears easier, can run on 4s, 540 size so I could have more room for the esc and is fairly cheap. Any input would be appreciated.

    I measured the temp on the esc and 94į out and itís at 152į. Iím switching to 1/8 rn.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 08-02-2020 at 02:51 AM. Reason: merge

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wavez View Post
    I measured the temp on the esc and 94į out and itís at 152į. Iím switching to 1/8 rn.
    Itíll probably be fast but that 1/10 is high KV to give that pede any torque

    Let me know


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    Quote Originally Posted by aaronjohn View Post
    It’ll probably be fast but that 1/10 is high KV to give that pede any torque

    Let me know


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    The higher the kv is the more rpms but less torque. Also I wanted to try 4s so I ran it about 10ft and smoke poured out of the slipper clutch. Currently looking for an e Revo slipper

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    That doesnít sound right


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  11. #11
    RC Qualifier ljl23's Avatar
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    If you want to run sensored, Hobbywing Xr8 sct is the best way to go. Sensorless, just get the hobbywing Ezrun 1/8 scale stuff.
    Slash 4x4 and Slash VXL owner

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    XR8 SCT seems to be expensive. Other than the higher Amp (140A vs 120A), do you know what's the advantage of the XR8 over the QUICRUN 10BL120 ESC?

    Also, does anyone know if I can connect a Hobbywing Wifi module to a Quickrun 10BL120?

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    Quote Originally Posted by aaronjohn View Post
    That doesn’t sound right


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    It was more than 10ft I was exaggerating but it was definitely slower than the castle system that was in it.

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    Does anyone make a roll cage?? I’ve already ripped the rear body holes. Also would anyone recommend sway bars? Btw i tightened the slipper half a turn and it’s fine now

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wavez View Post
    Does anyone make a roll cage?? Iíve already ripped the rear body holes. Also would anyone recommend sway bars? Btw i tightened the slipper half a turn and itís fine now
    Look at the proline brute body for it.


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    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    Look at the proline brute body for it.


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    I've heard that it doesn't hold up that well.

    I run a probodyrc body on mine, but I'm running the slash chassis. It's holding up really well though. The one they suggest for the stampede 4x4 would be a bit big otherwise.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    I've heard that it doesn't hold up that well.

    I run a probodyrc body on mine, but I'm running the slash chassis. It's holding up really well though. The one they suggest for the stampede 4x4 would be a bit big otherwise.
    I’m going to attempt to make a roll cage it might be a while before I post it I’m either going to post here or start another thread

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wavez View Post
    I’m going to attempt to make a roll cage it might be a while before I post it I’m either going to post here or start another thread
    That's what I did with my cheap bodies. Found it easiest to make a tower-to-tower brace with 3/4" aluminum box stock, then stack up something in the middle that would reach the top of the cab. Was easiest to work around and remove when it was time to work on it. I mounted it to the body mount pieces. Looked dumb, but the bodies lasted a year instead of a month.


    Would have been nice if traxxas built in a roll bar like the nitro revo and jato had. Then at least there would be some support for the body. I made something for my ERBEv1 as well for the same reason.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    That's what I did with my cheap bodies. Found it easiest to make a tower-to-tower brace with 3/4" aluminum box stock, then stack up something in the middle that would reach the top of the cab. Was easiest to work around and remove when it was time to work on it. I mounted it to the body mount pieces. Looked dumb, but the bodies lasted a year instead of a month.


    Would have been nice if traxxas built in a roll bar like the nitro revo and jato had. Then at least there would be some support for the body. I made something for my ERBEv1 as well for the same reason.
    Ok thanks, I’m getting a 3D printer and was going to design it with that and then try to weld it but the tower to tower will prob be better...

  20. #20
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    I like that design!

    [QUOTE=olds97_lss;6550186]That's what I did with my cheap bodies. Found it easiest to make a tower-to-tower brace with 3/4" aluminum box stock, then stack up something in the middle that would reach the top of the cab. Was easiest to work around and remove when it was time to work on it. I mounted it to the body mount pieces. Looked dumb, but the bodies lasted a year instead of a month.

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    [QUOTE=liv4spd;6550207]I like that design!

    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    That's what I did with my cheap bodies. Found it easiest to make a tower-to-tower brace with 3/4" aluminum box stock, then stack up something in the middle that would reach the top of the cab. Was easiest to work around and remove when it was time to work on it. I mounted it to the body mount pieces. Looked dumb, but the bodies lasted a year instead of a month.
    I like it too

    Olds97_lss can you do an overview of your pede? It looks very controlled in your videos and I like how you used the slash 4x4 chassis

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    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Wavez;6550430]
    Quote Originally Posted by liv4spd View Post
    I like that design!



    I like it too

    Olds97_lss can you do an overview of your pede? It looks very controlled in your videos and I like how you used the slash 4x4 chassis
    I have a thread here that lists out most, if not all, of the stuff I have on it, starting at post #8 has updated photo's:
    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...x4-vxl-updates

    If you want more details on something, drop a post in that thread and I'll add the info.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  23. #23
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    Thanks for sharing!

  24. #24
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    [QUOTE=olds97_lss;6550476]
    Quote Originally Posted by Wavez View Post

    I have a thread here that lists out most, if not all, of the stuff I have on it, starting at post #8 has updated photo's:
    https://forums.traxxas.com/showthrea...x4-vxl-updates

    If you want more details on something, drop a post in that thread and I'll add the info.
    Thanks! I’ll go check that out

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