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  1. #1
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    Questions about need for motor and esc upgrades

    I have a mini revo on order . I also have a stampede vxl 4x4 , and a ultimate slash . I have installed a hobbywing ezrun max 10 sct esc and 3660 so motor in both trucks . Really like the new setup in both .

    Question is ,,,,, how does the vxl set up work I'm the mini revo ? Has anyone found it necessary to upgrade motor systems , or is stock set up sufficient ? When I switched out the other stock systems the difference was huge , more torque , more top end , more wheelies . Less heat .
    I'm ok with buying a new power system , kinda like that part of the hobby .
    Just checking to see if anyone would recommend this kind of an upgrade right out of the box .
    Hobbywing does have a motor and esc that they say is for the mini . Going to run 2 cell and 3 cell batteries .
    Thanks in advance for your input .

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slaw32 View Post
    I have a mini revo on order . I also have a stampede vxl 4x4 , and a ultimate slash . I have installed a hobbywing ezrun max 10 sct esc and 3660 so motor in both trucks . Really like the new setup in both .

    Question is ,,,,, how does the vxl set up work I'm the mini revo ? Has anyone found it necessary to upgrade motor systems , or is stock set up sufficient ? When I switched out the other stock systems the difference was huge , more torque , more top end , more wheelies . Less heat .
    I'm ok with buying a new power system , kinda like that part of the hobby .
    Just checking to see if anyone would recommend this kind of an upgrade right out of the box .
    Hobbywing does have a motor and esc that they say is for the mini . Going to run 2 cell and 3 cell batteries .
    Thanks in advance for your input .

    First of all, good luck with your new mini! They are really fun and great little cars. The stock vxl system is good for 2s and 2s parallel bashing. If you use 3s you are going to have to get a fan and gear down because it gets hot. If I were you I would keep the stock system in it just to get used to it. I personally have put a 1/10th castle 4600kv motor in both of my 1/16 traxxas cars. The one car blew a diff, and the other one has yet to break anything. However, the one that blew a diff is offroad ( a mini summit) and the one that hasn't yet is on road ( a mini rally being converted for just speed runs). If you want to go 1/10th brushless, shim your diffs, or upgrade them, also loosen the slipper clutch a little bit. Sometimes the stock axles will break, and sometimes they won't. It's really up to you. The stock vxl system is fast on 2s, but a 1/10th power system is just insane. You just need to learn how to manage the power.

  3. #3
    RC Racer McCreary's Avatar
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    Take MiniSummit's advice and go with 2s at first. I've had my MERV for a little over three years, and the stock system has held up well. Be sure and shim your diffs. I tore up my rear diff on 2s a few days after I got mine. These things are all about throttle control. It does get hot on 3s. Keep an eye on your temps, if you go that route.

  4. #4
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    Please , I'm sure this has been covered . Explain about shimming differentials . New to this platform , heck , new to rc stuff , but pick it up fast .

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by MiniSummit50Mph View Post
    First of all, good luck with your new mini! They are really fun and great little cars. The stock vxl system is good for 2s and 2s parallel bashing. If you use 3s you are going to have to get a fan and gear down because it gets hot. If I were you I would keep the stock system in it just to get used to it. I personally have put a 1/10th castle 4600kv motor in both of my 1/16 traxxas cars. The one car blew a diff, and the other one has yet to break anything. However, the one that blew a diff is offroad ( a mini summit) and the one that hasn't yet is on road ( a mini rally being converted for just speed runs). If you want to go 1/10th brushless, shim your diffs, or upgrade them, also loosen the slipper clutch a little bit. Sometimes the stock axles will break, and sometimes they won't. It's really up to you. The stock vxl system is fast on 2s, but a 1/10th power system is just insane. You just need to learn how to manage the power.
    Thinking about using hobbywing set up . They recommend , a , 16 bl 30 esc paired with a 2435 sl motor . 2 pole motor rated at 4500kv .
    I will most probably run it stock , to start ,,,,
    But have an idea of a plan b , if stock too hot temp wise on 3's

  6. #6
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    On 3s it's a rocket and the other limitations of it become way more present. Like sloppy diffs and sloppy steering.

    On stock with 3s. Mine Can do double standing back flips so plenty of power. For the size.

    Just all depends on what your goal is.


    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slaw32 View Post
    Thinking about using hobbywing set up . They recommend , a , 16 bl 30 esc paired with a 2435 sl motor . 2 pole motor rated at 4500kv .
    I will most probably run it stock , to start ,,,,
    But have an idea of a plan b , if stock too hot temp wise on 3's


    That should work well. If your Merv is new, then you might not need to shim the diffs. Usually after a year or so, the bulkheads warp a bit and cause the ring gear of the diff and the pinion gear to not mesh properly. If you put a high amount of power through the diffs when the bulkhead is warped, they will 100% strip. I recently bought a new diff, and only ran my Mini Summit on 2s. It stripped within 3 runs. I took it apart, and saw that the bulkhead was cracked. I bought a new bulkhead, and that completely fixed it. Usually when you shim differentials, it means putting some washers in between the bulkhead and the diff to make the pinion and ring gear mesh better. However, in most cases, the bulkhead would be a bit weaker and worn down. If your merv is stock, I would recommend checking the differentials to see if there is too much slop. If there is, buy some Team Associated Shims (part number 21141) and watch this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gnq6PQ2nDpg&t=879s


    There are other, more expensive options that don't require shimming. You can get the Hot Racing Rear/ Front bulkheads that are made of aluminum. These shouldn't warp, and they will protect the stock diffs. They run about $65. You can also get a Hot Racing metal ring/ pinion. These are cheaper (around $45-50), and are much stronger than stock. However, I am not sure if they would still strip if the bulkhead has issues. They will also need the internal gears from your stock diffs. The safest option is to get the aluminum bulkhead. Since your car is still new, I wouldn't worry too much about these upgrades. I just wanted to mention them so that you know where to go when something does go wrong. Sorry for how long this is, but I really wanted to give you the info that I wish I knew when I first started. Hopefully this helps!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by MiniSummit50Mph View Post
    That should work well. If your Merv is new, then you might not need to shim the diffs. Usually after a year or so, the bulkheads warp a bit and cause the ring gear of the diff and the pinion gear to not mesh properly. If you put a high amount of power through the diffs when the bulkhead is warped, they will 100% strip. I recently bought a new diff, and only ran my Mini Summit on 2s. It stripped within 3 runs. I took it apart, and saw that the bulkhead was cracked. I bought a new bulkhead, and that completely fixed it. Usually when you shim differentials, it means putting some washers in between the bulkhead and the diff to make the pinion and ring gear mesh better. However, in most cases, the bulkhead would be a bit weaker and worn down. If your merv is stock, I would recommend checking the differentials to see if there is too much slop. If there is, buy some Team Associated Shims (part number 21141) and watch this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gnq6PQ2nDpg&t=879s


    There are other, more expensive options that don't require shimming. You can get the Hot Racing Rear/ Front bulkheads that are made of aluminum. These shouldn't warp, and they will protect the stock diffs. They run about $65. You can also get a Hot Racing metal ring/ pinion. These are cheaper (around $45-50), and are much stronger than stock. However, I am not sure if they would still strip if the bulkhead has issues. They will also need the internal gears from your stock diffs. The safest option is to get the aluminum bulkhead. Since your car is still new, I wouldn't worry too much about these upgrades. I just wanted to mention them so that you know where to go when something does go wrong. Sorry for how long this is, but I really wanted to give you the info that I wish I knew when I first started. Hopefully this helps!
    This definitely helps , thanks so much for your input . I have a feeling this car is going to be a work in motion , looking forward to it . I have planned on a Robinson racing slipper and metal gear upgrade along with the motor and esc . I'm sure I will need to add metal drive line .
    One question I have is about the center differential option . Looks like the way to go , but will that work with Robinson racing upgrade ?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slaw32 View Post
    This definitely helps , thanks so much for your input . I have a feeling this car is going to be a work in motion , looking forward to it . I have planned on a Robinson racing slipper and metal gear upgrade along with the motor and esc . I'm sure I will need to add metal drive line .
    One question I have is about the center differential option . Looks like the way to go , but will that work with Robinson racing upgrade ?


    I'm not 100% certain, because I don't use the Robinson Racing Slipper Clutch, or a center diff, but I believe they should work. The center diff goes into the transmission, and replaces one of the gears. The slipper clutch just seems to be an upgraded version of the one that comes stock. If the dimensions are the same as the stock one, it should work just fine. Also, if you are going to be running a center diff, make sure you use thick diff fluid inside. If you don't, all the power is going to go to the front wheels, and it the top speed might be decreased. The other thing is that wheelies won't happen as easily with the center diff. That is either a good or bad thing depending on what you like. One of really good things about the center diff is that if adjusted correctly, it will evenly distribute power to the front and rear. This means that you will probably blow differentials a lot less. Also, make sure to not over-tighten the slipper clutch once you get it. These 1/16th models really can't take a tight slipper. The diffs hate it, and so do the axles. I loosen mine until the shaft just barely pokes through the nut. You can still get wheelies, but it's a lot easier on the drivetrain, and the top speed stays the same.

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