Slash drag car

[jdorseyjr64]

What is the best model of slash to build a drag car with? Any and all help will be received ready to even buy new if I cant get used. Or are you guys making your own chassis?

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[Calebs0615]

What is the best model of slash to build a drag car with? Any and all help will be received ready to even buy new if I cant get used. Or are you guys making your own chassis?

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Well there's only a slash 2wd and slash 4wd im pretty sure. I could be wrong. But I think you'd have a lot of problems trying to keep the car on the ground with 2wd. And to go fast at the same time would be even harder. So in my opinion, I'd say 4wd. 2wd can be hard to keep stable as well. I use tsm and that helps a lot but im not going 60 in 2 or 3 seconds either.

In my opinion, 4wd all the way. Im looking forward to what somebody who actually drags rc will have to say.

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[bjoehandley]

I’m planning on starting with an XL5 Bandit w/out the battery and charger, once available and get the Traxxas LCG chassis kit since I already have the batteries, charger, and VXL system to go into it, probably going to throw some of the RPM bearing carriers out back for good measure too.

[Calebs0615]

This is really cool. https://m.traxxas.com/products/models/electric/funnycar

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[RCWilly]

An 4wd is not the most ideal drag car (most are RWD). Having an LCG 2wd slash with Bandit arms is the most popular build (or a Bandit with the Slash LCG chassis).

Also, I think the funny car is discontinued.

[Calebs0615]

An 4wd is not the most ideal drag car (most are RWD). Having an LCG 2wd slash with Bandit arms is the most popular build (or a Bandit with the Slash LCG chassis).

Also, I think the funny car is discontinued.

Yeah i didnt see a price anywhere and i think he was looking for a slash model. But maybe we can change his mind

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[bjoehandley]

An 4wd is not the most ideal drag car (most are RWD). Having an LCG 2wd slash with Bandit arms is the most popular build (or a Bandit with the Slash LCG chassis).

Also, I think the funny car is discontinued.

I don’t know, a Fiesta with the rear drag wheels and tires on all 4 corners, 4s capable BL system, and a “scale” Slash street pickup body that has a big aluminum tube with a model train smoke unit mounted in it could be fun too

[Calebs0615]

An 4wd is not the most ideal drag car (most are RWD). Having an LCG 2wd slash with Bandit arms is the most popular build (or a Bandit with the Slash LCG chassis).

Also, I think the funny car is discontinued.

Is there a way to widen the track on the slash?

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[RCWilly]

There isn't really a way, but you can try wider hexes (but you can only go so wide). For the 2wd, since the front wheels have more offset than the rear, you can change the front arms to the RPM offset compensating arms (makes it the same offset as the rear). Then you can run front wheel offsets both front and back (though that is not much wider, perhaps a few mm).

[bjoehandley]

Is there a way to widen the track on the slash?

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Not that I know of, thought Proline had a set, but they don’t. Not sure if that’s really needed, if anything, narrower is what you may want to fit the slicks on all 4 corners. Honestly, that’s why I mentioned the 1/10 Rally since it already has the Telluride arms on it......does it also use the rings and pinions from the brushed Stampede 4x4 though? Those use a shorter ratio than the brushless trucks.

[Calebs0615]

Not that I know of, thought Proline had a set, but they don’t. Not sure if that’s really needed, if anything, narrower is what you may want to fit the slicks on all 4 corners. Honestly, that’s why I mentioned the 1/10 Rally since it already has the Telluride arms on it......does it also use the rings and pinions from the brushed Stampede 4x4 though? Those use a shorter ratio than the brushless trucks.

I made a different post for that question haha. Thank you though.

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[Squeegie]

Generally, most make their no prep drag racers from LCG Slash 2WD. If you make it out of 4WD, it may bot pass inspection at official races. If you are planning to race, make sure you are within regulations for where you run.

General/Basic rules:

For the R/C No Prep, there’s only a few very basic rules:
2wd Short Course Truck based (12-13” wheelbase).
Rubber Tires.
Body must cover the tires.
Must have all four Shocks.
2S Lipo (8.44v max).
No steering assist (no gyros).

If where you run doesn’t care and let’s you “run what you brung,” then the sky’s the limit.

Havr fun!

[bjoehandley]

I mentioned the idea of a 4wd drag Slash on RCCrawler, apparently there is an “Outlaw” class some places will do so you can run what you brung.

[Squeegie]

Outlaw class sounds like fun. I only have 4x4 Slashes and it would be fun to re-gear and see what they can do!

[bjoehandley]

I can’t help but think something like these off a Slash 4x4 LCG would be an absolute blast to drive if set up right

[Calebs0615]

I can’t help but think something like these off a Slash 4x4 LCG would be an absolute blast to drive if set up right

I think itd be cool to set up a type of train smoke system. Itd be like it was diesel with the black smoke. But im not sure how youd get it to smoke when you wanted it to, not just all the time.

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[RickG]

The Rustler, being just a little smaller, can fit 190mm and 200mm bodies available. The transmissions are the same.

[RickG]

The big question, usually is what tires are you running? I'm running a 'stock' class 2S car and the DE Mini slicks (front sprint car tires) seem to be highly recommended. I have tried the Traxxas 'street' slicks and they are OK but the sidewalls are a bit soft. The DE tires I just got seem to be stronger. We'll see.

[Invincibl]

You could also go off of this:
https://www.jconcepts.net/shop/drag-racing

[Scott P]

Is there a way to widen the track on the slash?

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Jato a-arms. I came across a Slash drag conversion build that used Jato arms in the front with skinny drag tires, and bandit arms for rear. Bandit arms because he was running the wide scale slick tires. You can put Jato arms all around. You will need Jato drive shafts, and bearing carries as well. Along with turnbuckles. Google Jato arms on 2wd slash. There's a lot of builds.

[Panther6834]

Just getting started in the no-prep scene. Picked up a roller from Jake's Performance Hobbies yesterday, along with a few "accessories", and ESC (haven't decided on motor, yet)..but, I have a few simple questions that could REALLY use some answers:

1) I want to upgrade the stock driveshafts (Bandit length), and I know MIP has their X-Duty offering...but, that's too heavy. What other options are there that would be lighter than MIP's X-Duty CVD, but also stronger than the stock units?
2) For the shocks, is it best to keep the stock 'Ultra' shocks, and replace the caps with the optional aluminum caps? Or, are different shocks a better choice...and, if so, which (ie. GTRs, Pro-Line ProSpec, etc)?
3) Finally, regarding mounting the ESC, who (Traxxas, or 3rd-party) make ESC mounting plates (preferably carbon fiber, but plastic is 'acceptable') that can be mounted using the stock screw locations (please, list manufacturers & part numbers)?


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[zedorda]

1) Good luck because if someone makes them it is the smallest market possible.

2)Some think going ridge frame is best. This is one of the most subjective elements in drag racing so no real best for this.

3)Zip ties are the lightest and strongest option in most cases unless you go custom built.

I have a feeling this is why most of the drag racers go with custom parts.

[Scootern29]

I've been doing the no prep cars for the last 3 or 4 months and just finished my second car.

1. I'm using GPM axles that are cut down to length. I have a lathe so it's not difficult for me to shorten them. I've also used the slash axles cut down to length. I did explode one of the U joints after about 30 passes.

2. The Ultra shocks work fine. For the fronts just limit the travel with fuel line to where you want your ride height. By the the rules the shocks have to function. In the rear I'm using aluminum caps and threaded bodies for adjustable spring preload which you need for tuning. Limit the travel to what you want for ride height.

3. I've seen guys on Facebook 3D printing esc trays that mount above the battery and others out of carbon. I built my own U shaped stand with an ear on it that mounts to the lower 2 screws on the shock tower. It puts the esc in the center above the battery.

What I've found is that going lighter with everything is not always better. I've had to add ballast for more traction in the rear or some in the front to keep the front end down. Good luck in your adventure.

[Panther6834]

1) Good luck because if someone makes them it is the smallest market possible.

2)Some think going ridge frame is best. This is one of the most subjective elements in drag racing so no real best for this.

In response, 1) as I mentioned, MIP does make them, but being the "X-Duty", they are heavier; 2) per the rules, this is NOT allowed (MUST have working shocks on ALL 4 corners).

I've been doing the no prep cars for the last 3 or 4 months and just finished my second car.

1. I'm using GPM axles that are cut down to length. I have a lathe so it's not difficult for me to shorten them. I've also used the slash axles cut down to length. I did explode one of the U joints after about 30 passes.

2. The Ultra shocks work fine. For the fronts just limit the travel with fuel line to where you want your ride height. By the the rules the shocks have to function. In the rear I'm using aluminum caps and threaded bodies for adjustable spring preload which you need for tuning. Limit the travel to what you want for ride height.

3. I've seen guys on Facebook 3D printing esc trays that mount above the battery and others out of carbon. I built my own U shaped stand with an ear on it that mounts to the lower 2 screws on the shock tower. It puts the esc in the center above the battery.

What I've found is that going lighter with everything is not always better. I've had to add ballast for more traction in the rear or some in the front to keep the front end down. Good luck in your adventure.

Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately, I neither have, note have access to, any tools/equipment that could be used for shortening driveshafts/axles...thus, my only realistic option is to buy. As the old saying goes, "If I could, I would, but I can't, so I don't."

You say you're using the Ultra shocks...but, you also started that you're using threaded bodies on the rear. The Ultra shocks aren't threaded...so, what are you using? I know Traxxas has optional threaded aluminum bodies...but, if I were to consider buying those, then I might just as well buy completely new shocks, such as the GTRs, if they'll fit (I don't think they will, as I'm suspecting the shock bodies and/or springs would rub against the rear shock tower).

Finally, as for mounting the ESC. I actually like the idea of mounting it centered, above the battery tray. This is exactly how most of the custom carbon fiber chassis have it situated...except they aren't tied into the rear shock tower, as the ESC mount is attached to the chassis. I'll do some searching, and see if any of those ESC mounts might be able to be used (with, or without, modification).

UPDATE: Your ESC mounting gave me an idea. I might not have the machinery necessary to shorten driveshafts...but, I do have a Dremel, and could easily cut a square/rectangular piece of 2-3mm CF, and then drill two holes for the screws. HUGE thanks to ya.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[dgechrgr469]

The Dremel works but can be messy with the dust. I'm thinking of getting a scroll saw, it sure beats 7 grand for a water jet.

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[dgechrgr469]

I've been doing the no prep cars for the last 3 or 4 months and just finished my second car.

1. I'm using GPM axles that are cut down to length. I have a lathe so it's not difficult for me to shorten them. I've also used the slash axles cut down to length. I did explode one of the U joints after about 30 passes.

2. The Ultra shocks work fine. For the fronts just limit the travel with fuel line to where you want your ride height. By the the rules the shocks have to function. In the rear I'm using aluminum caps and threaded bodies for adjustable spring preload which you need for tuning. Limit the travel to what you want for ride height.

3. I've seen guys on Facebook 3D printing esc trays that mount above the battery and others out of carbon. I built my own U shaped stand with an ear on it that mounts to the lower 2 screws on the shock tower. It puts the esc in the center above the battery.

What I've found is that going lighter with everything is not always better. I've had to add ballast for more traction in the rear or some in the front to keep the front end down. Good luck in your adventure.

I agree, my fastest car uses two batteries in parallel for extra weight and the extra power. I was getting tire shake with my car being lighter without foam in the tires.

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[TwoBelugas]

Just getting started in the no-prep scene. Picked up a roller from Jake's Performance Hobbies yesterday, along with a few "accessories", and ESC (haven't decided on motor, yet)..but, I have a few simple questions that could REALLY use some answers:

1) I want to upgrade the stock driveshafts (Bandit length), and I know MIP has their X-Duty offering...but, that's too heavy. What other options are there that would be lighter than MIP's X-Duty CVD, but also stronger than the stock units?
2) For the shocks, is it best to keep the stock 'Ultra' shocks, and replace the caps with the optional aluminum caps? Or, are different shocks a better choice...and, if so, which (ie. GTRs, Pro-Line ProSpec, etc)?
3) Finally, regarding mounting the ESC, who (Traxxas, or 3rd-party) make ESC mounting plates (preferably carbon fiber, but plastic is 'acceptable') that can be mounted using the stock screw locations (please, list manufacturers & part numbers)?


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

For (1) I saw fast lane machine has bandit sized drive shafts now that look like Tekno shafts on steroids.

[Panther6834]

For (1) I saw fast lane machine has bandit sized drive shafts now that look like Tekno shafts on steroids.

That actually looks pretty darn good. Too bad it's out of stock. Once they're back in stock, I'm probably going to order them. If they don't work (ie. too heavy), I can always give them to my step-dad.

I also checked out there other Bandit-related stuff. A lot of it looks really good...too bad all the aluminum said it's 6061 to instead of 7075.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[Scootern29]

"You say you're using the Ultra shocks...but, you also started that you're using threaded bodies on the rear. The Ultra shocks aren't threaded...so, what are you using? I know Traxxas has optional threaded aluminum bodies...but, if I were to consider buying those, then I might just as well buy completely new shocks, such as the GTRs, if they'll fit (I don't think they will, as I'm suspecting the shock bodies and/or springs would rub against the rear shock tower)."

Panther I may have misspoken on the shocks. My latest car is running stock slash shocks with aftermarket aluminum bodies on the rear for the adjustable preload. My other car has some hybrid shocks I fabbed up. The stock shocks work fine for NPDR. What I have learned buying a few different shocks is that they are all in realistic terms a damper with 50/50 valving which means they compress and rebound at the same rate. Not really a shock "shock absorber". I work on real shocks for dirt bikes and off Road cars. Alot of the aftermarket shocks are the bling factor the way I see it and not a big advantage for the money.

[Panther6834]

Panther, I may have misspoken on the shocks. My latest car is running stock slash shocks with aftermarket aluminum bodies on the rear for the adjustable preload. My other car has some hybrid shocks I fabbed up. The stock shocks work fine for NPDR. What I have learned buying a few different shocks is that they are all in realistic terms a damper with 50/50 valving which means they compress and rebound at the same rate. Not really a shock "shock absorber". I work on real shocks for dirt bikes and off Road cars. Alot of the aftermarket shocks are the bling factor the way I see it and not a big advantage for the money.

I got ya now...thanks for the clarification.

First, I was reading about how most people use the Slash front shocks in the rear. Then, Jake mentioned about using higher weight shock oils. And, now, here you are indicating that the purpose of the shocks on a no-prep are more for "dampening", and not so much for being used as an actual "shock absorber". It's like the pieces of a puzzle finally coming together, as it's all making sense.

However, at the same time, this raises a few "interesting" questions. Considering what was said in the above paragraph, would I be correct in assuming that, in a no-prep, shorter shocks are always 'better' than longer shocks? Or...are shorter shocks only 'better' down to a certain length, after which, any shorter might make things worse? Since Jake didn't mention this part (and, I admit, I forgot to ask), in regards to spring rates, are stiffer, softer, or "in-the-middle", spring rates better in a no-prep?

Final question...for now...and, briefly going back to the shock length questions, I found shock towers (if I remember correctly, they're made by Exotek) for the Slash/Bandit/Rustler, specifically for no-prep, that are shorter than the stock towers (the body mount position is still at the same height, but the shock mounting points are lower). These shock towers are specifically designed to use 4-Tec 2.0 shocks in a no-prep. Would this be a good, bad, or "indifferent", idea? In other words, would this be 'smart', or 'dumb'?


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[dgechrgr469]

I'll jump in and say the shorter tower and the 4 tec shocks would work fine, the biggest reason for something like that would be a lighter car. There isn't a whole lot of suspension travel for a drag car. Heavy oil for a smooth track, lighter oil for a bumpy surface. I have stiff enough springs to set the ride height without a lot of preload. Soft springs just make setting the wheelie bar height tougher, hard to keep it consistent. That is why you'll see guys pushing down on the back of the car at the starting line. I like to limit the front suspension travel too. When the front wheels come off the ground that extra weight helps bring it back down quicker. Just some food for thought, everyone has their own ideas but these are pretty good guidelines to get started with.

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