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  1. #41
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Plastic servo horn stripped from the extra power of the ds3225. The servo came with a metal horn. It is not as low profile as stock. The 2 linkage mounting holes in the horn are at a slightly different length from the spline. One 2mm further in, one 2mm further out. So if I mount on inner I will have less throw, on the outer more throw. Hobby shop said I must use a Traxxas horn that is made for trx4, but couldn't explain exactly why. I could adjust endpoints to adjust for the 2mm longer throw of the horn. Will this horns higher profile screw up geometry?

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  2. #42
    RC Qualifier TITANIUM94010's Avatar
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    I'd use the Traxxas one, I threw a metal servo horn from my 10.2 on to my TRX4, it fit but the steering felt kinda off, switched to the TRX4 and it went back. I think it has to do more with leverage than throw, if you put it 2mm in it will be faster, but more stress on the servo, vice versa with 2mm out.

    But I doubt anything bad will happen if you don't get the Traxxas one.
    Jumping: maneuver and pray it won't break.

  3. #43
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    The reason to use the Traxxas length horn: You want to keep the drag link and the track bar parallel. The farther away from parallel they are the more the bump steer.

  4. #44
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    I'm at 105% throw with my radio and stock horn. So I assume moving it out I can bring end points down to match. Not too worried about stressing the 300 oz servo. I was more concerned how the linkage will sit a few mm lower at the horn mount installed. I guess I'll try it. If no bump steer, I'll keep it.

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  5. #45
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    So I went with the longer hole in the servo horn, guess I didn't set end points correctly, and blew my right ft CV joint. I noticed right after it blew, when I was at full turn lock the truck was binding and surging. Pulled my end points back 5%, and the binding stopped. Lesson learned grrrrrr.

    So I see that I can get more steering throw than the stock cv's will allow.

    Does anyone make cv's that can take more angle??????

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  6. #46
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Crazy. When I go on Tapatalk, no posts after the 11th. I go on chrome, and all posts are in the thread?


    A little bummed with the HH trailmaster 21t as it is less powerful than the Titan. I'm guessing because the Holmes has 0°timing, and the Titan has advanced reverse timing(retarded timing?). I didn't notice on 3s, but it was very noticable on 2s. 2 spots last night where all six tires would be grabbing and just stall. The Titan would just spin the tires. Plus side is the HH ran much cooler on 3s. 2s is not enough for the HH.
    I'm probably going to rebuild the CV joint for 5$ as opposed to upgrading the axles for 60.it wasn't the axles fault it was mine.
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  7. #47
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Def not a rebuild issue. It was my screw up to cause this to break. Everyone says this driveline is bulletproof, so I'm gonna replace with stock.

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  8. #48
    RC Racer
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    Is there anyway to make a steering stop with a screw or something? Even with your end points properly adjusted you can still hit something while turning and over extend the steering and break it again. But in reality, unless you're running like a u4 style race, it probably won't happen again.
    I know you're going with stock axles, but if you ever want something even more beefy, check out vanquish. They sell some nice strong parts (also reflected in the price...).
    I'm surprised the trailmaster is weaker then the titan. Does it go slower on top speed as well? Atleast it should outlast the titan. I've ran titans and brushless Holmes, but haven't owned a trailmaster to compare.

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  9. #49
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Vanquish doesn't make them unfortunately.
    The HH motor has no timing. I'm guessing that's why.

    The suspension has stoppers, guess the longer throw of the servo was flexing the plastic.
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  10. #50
    RC Qualifier TITANIUM94010's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    Def not a rebuild issue. It was my screw up to cause this to break. Everyone says this driveline is bulletproof, so I'm gonna replace with stock.

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    How'd you break them? I've never seen a driveshaft snap on a TRX4, even in maintenance.
    Jumping: maneuver and pray it won't break.

  11. #51
    RC Competitor
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    Quote Originally Posted by TITANIUM94010 View Post
    How'd you break them? I've never seen a driveshaft snap on a TRX4, even in maintenance.
    I have broke two in my trx6 both times the front short one. the first time it was from doing some crazy flips down a cliff landing just right on the the front wheel first. the second time a wheel got bound up with a rock between the tire and the body

  12. #52
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    I set the steering endpoints to far. I was using the metal servo horn that came with my ds3225. It had 2 holes in it. I used the one that was 2mm further from the spline compared to stock horn. I reset my end points but set them too far I guess. I was on asphalt, and did a full lock turn. I heard it pop. As I finished the turn I could see the truck wobbling from the remaining front axle binding and noticed the damage. Reset the endpoints 5% less and the binding and wobbling stopped. I tried some obstacles with 5wd, but it was usless to do anything but drive home on the sidewalk lol. Let me pound on stuff long enough, and I always find the braking point

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  13. #53
    RC Qualifier TITANIUM94010's Avatar
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    Well, that's a first! Somewhat glad I didn't use that servo horn from my 10.2, the first time I waaaaaaay overset the endpoints.
    Jumping: maneuver and pray it won't break.

  14. #54
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Yep I just messed up lol

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  15. #55
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    UPDATE. I messed up again lol. In the quest to have reverse lights, upon reassembling everything, I plugged the ESC lead to the light controller on the chassis. Backwards. It had a nice satisfying "click" when it went back together. Plugged my batt in, turned on the ESC, no body or rock lights...

    Hmmm...

    5 seconds later magic blue smoke and the sound of bacon trying.

    Pulled the battery. Pulled the ESC lead to the light controller. I noticed that there is a raised fin up the center of one side of the connector as a fail safe. That click I heard was was that side of the connector bending to let them snap past each other in the wrong direction. Lessons learned. It cost me 21$.
    I plugged everything back in correctly. When I turned it on, the headlights and roof lights stayed dark. The markers, rear reds, and front bumper lights lit, but very dim.

    Are the roof visor, and headlights higher voltage than the rest?

    Anyway, I think the reverse light setup is sweet. They light nice and strong, but they are only connected to the motor leads. They have nothing to do with the stock light chain. I will report back my trx lights issues, and hopefully get a vid soon of the reverse lights working. Finally back to work yesterday because of the politics of the pandemic and I'm beat right now haha.

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  16. #56
    RC Qualifier TITANIUM94010's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    UPDATE. I messed up again lol. In the quest to have reverse lights, upon reassembling everything, I plugged the ESC lead to the light controller on the chassis. Backwards. It had a nice satisfying "click" when it went back together. Plugged my batt in, turned on the ESC, no body or rock lights...


    Are the roof visor, and headlights higher voltage than the rest?
    Doubt it, Ive ran them by themselves off of the power block by themselves. I run the headlight independently, not from the second power distributor, it's a teeny bit brighter.
    Jumping: maneuver and pray it won't break.

  17. #57
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Working reverse lights video

    https://youtu.be/QQnWqb0hShI
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  18. #58
    RC Qualifier TITANIUM94010's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    Working reverse lights video

    https://youtu.be/QQnWqb0hShI
    Looks cool

    Are the lights controlled by the receiver, or is it from the voltages changing on the ESC's motor lead?
    Jumping: maneuver and pray it won't break.

  19. #59
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    The 2 LEDs are wired directly to the motor. Wired in reverse. + To - and - to +.

    I tried 6v LEDs and they burnt out first pull on reverse(running 3s). I got 12v 5mm LEDs(10 for 5$) and they are what u see in vid.

    The light bezels are 3mm for the reverse light spot. I used a brand new sharp body reamer and very gently reamed them to 5mm. If you do this, be careful. The chrome light buckets are made of very brittle plastic and will snap in half unless you are very gentile.

    Pic 1 ... Passenger side installation.
    Pic 2 ... Driver side installation.
    Pic 3 ... Connector to motor same length as body light connector. Lay body over same way and neither leads are stressed.
    Pic 4... Used servo connector to connect to motor. Notice it is soldered directly to the bullet connectors in reverse polarity.
    Last edited by rag6; 09-03-2020 at 11:31 PM.
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  20. #60
    RC Qualifier TITANIUM94010's Avatar
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    That's nice!

    Are the lights dim when slowly reversing?
    Jumping: maneuver and pray it won't break.

  21. #61
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Yes, only flaw I see.

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  22. #62
    RC Qualifier Calebs0615's Avatar
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    What would make them dim in reverse? Does the esc use more power for reverse?

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  23. #63
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    It's running off of voltage going to the motor. Light throttle=low voltage=dim lights....

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  24. #64
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    The LEDs only work in reverse. It's the way they are wired. I wired them in reverse. Positive to negative, instead of positive to positive/negative to negative. If I would have wired normally, the LEDs would only light when going forward

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