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  1. #1
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    X-Maxx Purchase - Must have 'upgrades' (ie things that should have been included)

    With an Xmaxx other than two 4S batts and chargers, what other 'must get day 1' "accessories" (upgraded servo, bearings, cups, shafts, etc. etc.) are required. I'm talking about things people have discovered break/fail consistently (i.e. like driveshafts on Maxx Widemaxx kit that twist stock driveshafts forcing you to get steel). Thanks!!!!

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
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    I put the metal gear set in the stock servo.

    TBone racing bumper, skid plate, shock socks, and a-arm skid plate sets.

    The stock spur gears are pretty weak. Get a steel one once you figure out what you like.

    The real hard core people talk about blowing diffs and breaking axles and a-arms, but you have to try.


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  3. #3
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    Thanks. Does the TMAXX suffer the same chassis slap issues as the Maxx?

  4. #4
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    The first thing I did on my X-Maxx is replace the rear axle carrier with the RPM version that uses a much larger inner bearing. The stock inner bearings are pretty anemic and by most accounts, don't seem to last very long.



    ProLine and RPM both a make a rear axle carrier with larger inner bearings. Just make sure you remember to grease them if you get them because they don't come pre-packed with grease.


    Other than that, the stock pinion/spur gears and the stock servo, the X-maxx is pretty solid right out of the box.

    Oh, for spur gears, you'll hear GDS and Kershaw a lot.
    I went with GDS spur and Tekno pinion. (Mod 1)
    Last edited by cgrant26; 08-02-2020 at 09:19 PM.

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    X-Maxx Purchase - Must have 'upgrades' (ie things that should have been included)

    Do the rear bearing carriers, figure out if youd like a body that will last you a long time(proline brute body), or bandaid the stock with shoo goo body limiters etc. no need for arms etc right away. Id look at
    traxxas HD arms before I went rpm slop arms. Scrap the pin mesh system. Set manually If you dont want gears in multiple pieces.


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  6. #6
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    FYI, here's what those stock inner bearings look like after they let go. This was from my front left inner bearing earlier tonight: Funny enough, I used one of the 2 I pulled from the rear when I upgraded to the RPM axle carriers to get back up and running.


  7. #7
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by cgrant26 View Post
    FYI, here's what those stock inner bearings look like after they let go. This was from my front left inner bearing earlier tonight: Funny enough, I used one of the 2 I pulled from the rear when I upgraded to the RPM axle carriers to get back up and running.

    Yeah, my stock inner bearings all did that on my first run without a single jump. I picked up the RPM carriers and bought an avid bearings set as well.
    X-MAXX, Stampede VXL 4x4, Spartan

  8. #8
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gripdog7205 View Post
    Do the rear bearing carriers, figure out if you’d like a body that will last you a long time(proline brute body), or bandaid the stock with shoo goo body limiters etc. no need for arms etc right away. I’d look at
    traxxas HD arms before I went rpm slop arms. Scrap the pin mesh system. Set manually If you don’t want gears in multiple pieces.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Hey gripdog, why the HD arms over the RPM?
    X-MAXX, Stampede VXL 4x4, Spartan

  9. #9
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    Jul 2020
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    I've had mine for a couple of weeks. Here's what should have been addressed from the factory:

    1. Stock 2085 servo is weak and fragile. It couldn't hold a turn in grass at speed, and mine actually stripped a gear while sitting stationary. I drove to my garage and parked while throwing a lipo in a neighbor kid's Slash, and suddenly heard a high-pitched whirring sound. I thought it was a fan. Turns out, the brass gear on the motor was suddenly spinning at full blast and chewed teeth off the innermost plastic gear. 2085X to the rescue, no issues so far.

    2. Inner bearings at all four corners pop their seals. RPM rear carriers address this with a larger bearing. Fronts need better bearings. So far, I'm happy with Fast Eddy bearings. They're inexpensive and they're holding up. I think the culprit is the OEM Traxxas seals don't have enough of a lip to slide into the seal groove cut into the outer bearing race, so they pop even in a light breeze. While I waited for the Fast Eddy bearings to arrive, I cleaned and re-greased the originals and put a tiny dab of superglue every 90 degrees where the seal meets the outer race. They've held up pretty well after that.

    3. I've had foams come apart in two tires, despite never getting them wet, and having the holes in the wheel sealed off with electrical tape. Nothing's getting in there, I tell you hwat. I haven't found a solution yet, but I'm thinking of under gearing which would keep the wheels from spinning so fast. Besides, I'm running a tight 1/10 track with a bunch of Slash's, I need torque more than top speed. It appears the foams are just poor quality. I'll eventually cut my own out of something better. Building a foam cutting table is cheaper than a set of tires, so I'm just waiting for a couple more to fail.

    4. Drive cups seem weak, but that's a trade-off situation, I suppose. But, cups are cheaper than axles. My cups already have deep grooves in them, but my axles are pristine. Perhaps a sealed grease-filled boot would help a bit.

    That's really about it. It's been bulletproof otherwise, unless I do something stupid like hitting a picnic table, breaking an arm and bending a shock shaft.

  10. #10
    RC Champion
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    Quote Originally Posted by dt393 View Post
    Hey gripdog, why the HD arms over the RPM?
    The RPM ones tends to excesive bending and took off the hinge pins.

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    Quote Originally Posted by dt393 View Post
    Hey gripdog, why the HD arms over the RPM?
    Just HD. Not flexy. Just a better design imo.


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  12. #12
    RC Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juanmacine View Post
    The RPM ones tends to excesive bending and took off the hinge pins.
    You can address that by switching to hinge bolts and nylock nuts (which RPM and a few other's sell) but then the concern is the added give from the bendy RPM arms are now allowing more of that energy to hit the axles, outer carriers/blocks and associated bearings. It's also reducing some of the crispness of your steering.

    When it comes to machines, everything is a compromise. Usually you make a compromise in one area to solve an even bigger problem somewhere else. In the case of the X-Maxx, if you're not breaking arms, why throw in an unneeded compromise? From what I can tell from youtube videos and forum posts, not many other people are breaking arms either but lots of people complain about losing pins when running RPM arms. That and I've seen enough complaints of chewed up axle cups and inner disintegrated bearings to not want to put more abuse on them.
    Last edited by cgrant26; 08-06-2020 at 08:50 AM.

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