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  1. #1
    RC Racer Rico116's Avatar
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    Wheels wobbly when elevated? And steering pulling

    How's everyone doing?

    My wheels have alot of wobble when elevated is it normal, I linked a video.
    https://youtu.be/HY1ikFx5rIA

    Also I have been fighting with the steering issue it pulls to the right drastically when traveling at medium speeds and low speeds and it will pull to the left sometimes. When driving at high speeds on road 50 mphs it still does it but not so bad. I am driving on asphalt and concrete. On grass it doesn't do it. But rocks it will pull

    Also ever since I got the e revo it doesn't go straight backwards It always pull to the right, causing easy donuts.

    What could this be, the toe links what else could be contributing to this

    Any help would be greatly appreciated,thanks

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  2. #2
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Are your wheel nuts tight? I can't tell in the video. Need a vid showing the side of the wheel where the blue nut is.

    With the steering pulling issue, if your wheels are wobbling like in the video that needs to be fixed. That would cause all sorts of steering issues.

  3. #3
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    My bet is pillow balls caps or your wheel hex nut is loose.



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  4. #4
    RC Racer Rico116's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    My bet is pillow balls caps or your wheel hex nut is loose.



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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Are your wheel nuts tight? I can't tell in the video. Need a vid showing the side of the wheel where the blue nut is.

    With the steering pulling issue, if your wheels are wobbling like in the video that needs to be fixed. That would cause all sorts of steering issues.
    It looks like the new nuts I put. do you think I should cut the shaft with a grinder for a proper fit for the new nuts or not recommended? Also or just stick with old nuts because the old ones the metal tabs inside the nut was disappearing not causing it to grasp completely on the shaft.
    https://youtu.be/cgBXzuVyzAI

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  5. #5
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Perhaps just use some washers between the tire rims and your new caps.

    Probably what I would do vs trying to cut the shafts down shorter. Bas to me this would be a last resort. As it will bigger up the ends of the threads and would have to file it down some so they don't cross thread when putting cap on.

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  6. #6
    RC Racer Rico116's Avatar
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    Where would I buy washers local hardware store ? And the washers have to be 17mm? I just don't understand what washers would do because the nuts tighten all the way till they don't go no more like the blue ones but the end result the wheels wobbles like crazy.

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  7. #7
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Buy washers at local hardware store. Take a old wheel nut with you as want washer hold to be bigger than hole on wheel nut. Want outside diameter to fit inside of tire rim.

    Issue is the threads on the wheel nuts shafts are longer than the caps can thread on. So the caps are bottoming out before they touch the rims.

    Putting washers between the tire and the cap will then put pressure on the wheel and the cap and keep it tight.

    You may need 2 to 3 washers per wheel depending on the thickness of the washers and the space it needs to fill.
    As the wheel needs to be tight against the hub hex and the wheel nut. Like on the old ones.

    Other options is just use stock wheel nuts and put a drop or two of blue locktight on the threads.

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  8. #8
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rico116 View Post
    I just don't understand what washers would do because the nuts tighten all the way till they don't go no more like the blue ones but the end result the wheels wobbles like crazy.
    Acidic01 nailed it!
    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    ... Issue is the threads on the wheel nuts shafts are longer than the caps can thread on. So the caps are bottoming out before they touch the rims...

  9. #9
    RC Racer Rico116's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    Buy washers at local hardware store. Take a old wheel nut with you as want washer hold to be bigger than hole on wheel nut. Want outside diameter to fit inside of tire rim.

    Issue is the threads on the wheel nuts shafts are longer than the caps can thread on. So the caps are bottoming out before they touch the rims.

    Putting washers between the tire and the cap will then put pressure on the wheel and the cap and keep it tight.

    You may need 2 to 3 washers per wheel depending on the thickness of the washers and the space it needs to fill.
    As the wheel needs to be tight against the hub hex and the wheel nut. Like on the old ones.

    Other options is just use stock wheel nuts and put a drop or two of blue locktight on the threads.

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    Makes perfect sense and I'm a visual learner too. I had to read over it like 10 times and visually imagine it lol. But dang your good at explaining stuff. Honestly I was about to cut my losses. Because I didn't know where to start, Much thanks, and looks like it should work

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  10. #10
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    You will want to use some blue locktight on your hr caps as well. Your caps have groves to bite into the wheel rim and lock the cap in place. That helps prevent the nut from backing out and becoming loose. When using washers, This will no longer work. As the washer will turn with the cap. May be able to find a lock washer which may help but really just some blue locktight should do the trick.

    Pic of a different lock washers.

    I'm a visual learner as well.. so try to keep any explanation simple as I can..



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  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    If you get washers, make sure you get lock washers so that your cap nuts do not spin off. The HR caps are serrated and digs onto your wheels. Flat washers will not.

    Good luck and have fun!

    Edit:
    Did you get the caps for the E-Revo 2.0? The picture for them on HR's website look deeper (7.5mm):


    https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=ERVT10C02;c=1294

    Edit2:
    Acidic01 beet me to it! Good job!
    Last edited by Squeegie; 08-06-2020 at 03:02 PM.
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  12. #12
    RC Racer Rico116's Avatar
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    Thank you everybody I will update this post on how it works and if steering problems still persist.

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  13. #13
    RC Racer Rico116's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    If you get washers, make sure you get lock washers so that your cap nuts do not spin off. The HR caps are serrated and digs onto your wheels. Flat washers will not.

    Good luck and have fun!

    Edit:
    Did you get the caps for the E-Revo 2.0? The picture for them on HR's website look deeper (7.5mm):


    https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=ERVT10C02;c=1294

    Edit2:
    Acidic01 beet me to it! Good job!
    Oof I ordered the caps from amain hobbies assuming it would fit because it is a 17mm. I didnt know of the website

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  14. #14
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    What was the part number you ordered?


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  15. #15
    RC Racer Rico116's Avatar
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    This is the same page I ordered it.

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/hot-rac...o10n02/p650254

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  16. #16
    RC Qualifier Calebs0615's Avatar
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    You're gonna want to make sure thats where the wobble is coming from. My 2wd slash front tires wobble but it's cause my aluminum castor blocks dont fit well with my aluminum control arms. Have you checked to see what else wobbles with the tires?

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  17. #17
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rico116 View Post
    This is the same page I ordered it.

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/hot-rac...o10n02/p650254

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    The page says those caps are for a arrma Nero car. So you got the wrong ones.. guess it be a lesson and making sure that the part fits your car. Unfortunately the amain link doesn't says what car it is for unless you look at all the pictures carefully
    https://images.amain.com/cdn-cgi/ima...nro10n02_1.jpg




    Which is why they are not working for you. I bet the wheel shaft is shorter on those cars.

    So can try to see about a return... Use old ones. Or find washers that will fit to make those caps work.

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  18. #18
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Calebs0615 View Post
    You're gonna want to make sure thats where the wobble is coming from. My 2wd slash front tires wobble but it's cause my aluminum castor blocks dont fit well with my aluminum control arms. Have you checked to see what else wobbles with the tires?

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    It's completely the wheel nuts not being Tight due to not being the right size.. You can see it in the one vid he posted. As rims move back and forth on the shaft

    There may be play in the pillow balls caps as well. But I bet 95% of is due to the wheel nuts.
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  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Don’t know if the parts make a difference... now that I know it’s for the Nero, it says that it’s height is 7.5mm.

    https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=NRO10N02;c=1019
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  20. #20
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeegie View Post
    Donít know if the parts make a difference... now that I know itís for the Nero, it says that itís height is 7.5mm.

    https://hot-racing.com/?partnumber=NRO10N02;c=1019
    Hmm both do say 7.5mm height. But does list 2 different part numbers. I guess unless someone had both and to measure both. Hard to know what real difference is between them.. or perhaps his was miss manufactured. Or inside is machined out a bit different so it doesn't go all the way?

    But it the hex cap is bottoming out for him Before it hits the rim.


    Measuring my car I'm seeing about 7.5 to 8mm in my measurements

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  21. #21
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    At the 12 sec mark in https://youtu.be/cgBXzuVyzAI. You can see the wheel rim moving against the cap. Cap was tight to the rim you would not see this. And the play is excessive.

    Also do think has some play in the pillow balls end cap as well at least in tire with the stock hex nut. But looks to be about the same play as I have.



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  22. #22
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    I also measured the distance from the stock wheel to the end of the blue hex and it's about 8mm. So that would mean a cap nut like the Hot Racing ones talked about above would need to be at least 8mm deep to hit the wheel before bottoming out on the hex end.

    Really need a better video of the side of the tire showing the wobble. That would show where the wobble is coming from. In order of most wobble cause to least amount cause: I'm thinking 1. HR wheel nuts, 2. pivot ball caps, 3. wheel hex slightly worn on axle stub.


    Really can't blame manufacturer yet, as the wrong part # was used. Having two different part #'s does show there is some kind of difference even if the description is the same.
    Last edited by grizzly03; 08-06-2020 at 10:54 PM.

  23. #23
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    I guess another way to find the wobble for op

    Is to take tires off and them move the wheel hex hub and or axel carriers around. Left and right will show slop in toe or steering links. And how wobbled out the ball ends are up and down and in and out will show play in pillow balls and if caps need tighten and wheel bearing from worn bearings

    I do agree can just go off the description of the part as could be some typeos in there... Or copy pasta. The inside of the part could be different even if outside is same dimensions.

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  24. #24
    RC Racer Rico116's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    The page says those caps are for a arrma Nero car. So you got the wrong ones.. guess it be a lesson and making sure that the part fits your car. Unfortunately the amain link doesn't says what car it is for unless you look at all the pictures carefully
    https://images.amain.com/cdn-cgi/ima...nro10n02_1.jpg




    Which is why they are not working for you. I bet the wheel shaft is shorter on those cars.

    So can try to see about a return... Use old ones. Or find washers that will fit to make those caps work.

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    Yeah unfortunately I think I'm gonna go with the washer way because at the end of the day this was my fault because the compatibility says arrma. I don't want to return it because even though the listing says 17mm and all of that, I assumed it would fit pretty well knowing the revo is 17mm. For now on I try to find the manufactures website. I didnt even know of hot racing till yall bought it up.

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  25. #25
    RC Racer Rico116's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    I also measured the distance from the stock wheel to the end of the blue hex and it's about 8mm. So that would mean a cap nut like the Hot Racing ones talked about above would need to be at least 8mm deep to hit the wheel before bottoming out on the hex end.

    Really need a better video of the side of the tire showing the wobble. That would show where the wobble is coming from. In order of most wobble cause to least amount cause: I'm thinking 1. HR wheel nuts, 2. pivot ball caps, 3. wheel hex slightly worn on axle stub.


    Really can't blame manufacturer yet, as the wrong part # was used. Having two different part #'s does show there is some kind of difference even if the description is the same.
    The wobble is pretty much gone now due to the fact I put on my old caps for now till I get washers. I will keep what you said about probable causes in mind as wobble could and probably will arise in the future due to wear and tear. Also it is good to know about measuring I never thought of measuring for comparison, gonna have to buy a mm ruler for measuring.

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  26. #26
    RC Racer Rico116's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Acidic01 View Post
    I guess another way to find the wobble for op

    Is to take tires off and them move the wheel hex hub and or axel carriers around. Left and right will show slop in toe or steering links. And how wobbled out the ball ends are up and down and in and out will show play in pillow balls and if caps need tighten and wheel bearing from worn bearings

    I do agree can just go off the description of the part as could be some typeos in there... Or copy pasta. The inside of the part could be different even if outside is same dimensions.

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    Very good to know will take a closer look with the wheel off. Just because issues lead down to certain things.

    Ideally do you want a little bit of wobble like with the stock nuts, because as you said you have about the same play?

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  27. #27
    RC Racer Rico116's Avatar
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    Switched back to my stock nuts for now, but the steering still pulls one moment it will be pulling right the next moment it will pull left. The first 2 pictures are showing my toe alignment on each side. The third and fourth are showing the threads of my links the front links to be exact. On one picture the links just disappear into the rod end. I always feel weird about that like it might break in the future. Also how do I prevent the toes getting out of alignment each time I barely bump into something

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  28. #28
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    You can try a little bit of toe-in to help with your steering pulling. Adding toe-in will help, looks like you don't have any in your pics.
    http://www.competitionx.com/rc-tuning-toe-in-toe-out/

  29. #29
    RC Racer Rico116's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    You can try a little bit of toe-in to help with your steering pulling. Adding toe-in will help, looks like you don't have any in your pics.
    http://www.competitionx.com/rc-tuning-toe-in-toe-out/
    Thank you I will try a little bit of toe in. That link you sent me looks helpful I will try to adjust it due to that information.

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  30. #30
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    There is no wrong or right setting, try different settings till you get it where you like it. I have mine set up with a small amount of toe-in on both the front and rear and my truck doesn't wonder back and forth.

  31. #31
    RC Champion Acidic01's Avatar
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    Since truck is newer don't think this would be a issue but who knows.

    Check your pivot balls and that the end didn't pop off the ball. Item circled in red in pic. This will also introduce extra slop.


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  32. #32
    RC Racer Rico116's Avatar
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    Hows everybody doing?
    I dont want to start a new post so I'm gonna continue it right here. I took out my front toe links and retreaded it for a proper fit but the issue I have it doesn't quite line up with one of the sides. Both links are measured equally. If I was to pull that steering knuckle to make it fit the other knuckle would be stretched way too much causing the other knuckle to be misaligned. Why is it doing this? Should I just thread it out less? It doesn't make any sense these are these supposed to fit equally on both sides upon installation?
    Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks

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  33. #33
    RC Racer Rico116's Avatar
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    Knuckles alignment when links are put in.

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    Last edited by Rico116; 08-09-2020 at 08:43 PM.

  34. #34
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Your almost there. You haven't done anything wrong. With both of them installed you will turn both rods the same amount till the alignment is where you want it. If you turn the one on the right 1 turn, you would turn the one on the left 1 turn also.

    Those are the rods that set your Toe-in or Toe-out alignment. You would use the hex looking part in the middle of the rods to turn them. Depending on which way you turn it, it would either get shorter overall or longer overall.
    Last edited by grizzly03; 08-09-2020 at 09:18 PM. Reason: where to turn rod

  35. #35
    RC Racer Rico116's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    Your almost there. You haven't done anything wrong. With both of them installed you will turn both rods the same amount till the alignment is where you want it. If you turn the one on the right 1 turn, you would turn the one on the left 1 turn also.

    Those are the rods that set your Toe-in or Toe-out alignment. You would use the hex looking part in the middle of the rods to turn them. Depending on which way you turn it, it would either get shorter overall or longer overall.
    Tnak you. The problem I'm having is the steering Bellcrank is suppose to be perfectly centered, but the assembly is offset from the center causing where you slide in the toe links for the knuckle on one side too be pulled to one side extremely as seen on pictures, as I posted earlier

    The first picture is the servo offset from the center, the second is the servo centered and as you could see the steering arm is very misaligned. I didn't put much thought into the whole steering bellcrank setup just focused on getting the servo centered and the horn. Which was a big mistake everything must be centered.

    I gotta take a closer look at the steering assembly and center everything tomorrow but I'm almost 100 percent positive this is what my steering issue was the whole time for a few weeks. I hope this makes sense. It was really hard to explain. I'm just grateful that my steering issue may be fixed once and for all, I almost gotten to the point where I didn't even wanna touch the revo because of the steering



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    Last edited by Rico116; 08-09-2020 at 10:30 PM.

  36. #36
    RC Racer Rico116's Avatar
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    The root of the steering pulling left and then right issue is the steering assembly doesnt return to center sometimes once you start turning it center before you begin turning but then once you start going after a few turns it get stuck in one position and few more turns it goes back to center and the process repeats throwing the toe link alignment off.

    What could be causing this. Wear and tear on the bellcrank? I linked a video. The easiest way to see the issue in the video is looking where the toelink screws into the bellcrank

    https://youtu.be/zFWBfL78t24

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