Guess I’m back into the hobby

[mrtwohands]

That's not bad for hitting a tree. If that's the first time I probably would stay stock a-arms. Those grey plastic bulkheads must be much better than the original T-maxx black plastic (2003). Anytime an a-arm took a hit the bulkheads would break. I ended up with aluminum bulkheads and RPM arms. But the weight killed the performance of the 2.5 engine.

I agree was a little impressed. When I had the brushless emaxx I would break something on every trip out. Eventually upgraded to, if I remember correctly, FLM bulkheads, skid plates and RPM A-Arms. After that it was pretty good. Well with the steel driveline as well.

I’m sure at some point I’ll start upgrading this maxx just because I get bored and like to tinker.

[cjtamu-redux]

First breakage today. I swear I didn’t see the tree . Honestly surprised it’s not worse. I’ll bend the shock arm back into place.

Which one: stock or RPM arms? I’ve ran RPM in the past on other models and thought they were a little too flexible

Ouch! Amazed that's all that happened. Unless you own a machine shop I wouldn't bend that shock shaft back into place. You won't get it perfectly straight and you risk messing up hole in the bottom of the shock body.

[mrtwohands]

I agree. Bending the shock shaft is only temporary until I decide to go big bore shocks or not.

I’ve done that in the past and it was good for a bit. I take the shocks apart and put the shaft on a piece of flat stock and keep at it to it’s pretty straight.

But I’m sure it weakens the metal some.


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[mrtwohands]

Yesterday was a tough day with the nitros.

Revo fuel tank has a hole in it and needs to be replaced. Legit have no idea where it came from. Oh well. Easy fix.

Tmaxx was not wanting to run right. Was running just fine the other day. The tune was all over the place and I couldn’t get it sorted out before having to pack up. Guess I’ll try again another day.

It’s all part of it but still stinks when you just wanted to bash. Might be time to add an electric for those type of days .


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[cjtamu-redux]

Bummer. Assuming the fuel is fresh sounds like the T-Maxx might have an air leak. Make sure carb pinch bolt is snug. Just snug, not monkey tight. Look for signs of fresh fuel at the tank. Fuel tanks can crack at the seam. Might try a new glow plug if you’re still on the original.

[mrtwohands]

Sealed off revo tank and submerged in water. No bubbles. I’m now assuming the kid wasn’t sealing properly. Cleaned the tank and lid for a tighter fit. Well try it out again.

Not sure it’s bad fuel as the same fuel ran fine in the Revo. I will check for air leaks though.

Maybe I am just rusty with tuning a nitro .


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[mrtwohands]

Got the revo back running right. When I added the longer fuel line I had the line ran the wrong way. Whoops. Had the carb line going to the exhaust. Still think I need to replace the fuel tank lid just to be safe as it doesn’t seem to seal like it should. Even after tightening.

Don’t see any issues with the Tmaxx that would warrant tuning issues. With that said I think I’ll try different fuel and retune from there.

I did order some VP Master Basher 20%. Will see how it runs in these 3.3’s.


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[cjtamu-redux]

Well, that would do it! For the Revo you can order just the o-ring. T-Maxx is the entire lid assembly. I know it’s new, but thought maybe you’d cracked something when you clipped the tree. Fuel tanks are notorious for developing leaks, just across all brands and all models. Shoe Goo works wonders in a pinch ha ha but I’ve never tried it as a long term solution. If the fuel is good in the Revo then it will be good in the T-Maxx so doubt that’s the problem.

[mrtwohands]

Broke a tie rod today. Had fun till the Revo and Tmaxx broke. Both easy fixes and they were flying high when they broke...well until they hit the ground I should say

Might take this opportunity to upgrade to the RPM True Track.

[Calebs0615]

Broke a tie rod today. Had fun till the Revo and Tmaxx broke. Both easy fixes and they were flying high when they broke...well until they hit the ground I should say

Might take this opportunity to upgrade to the RPM True Track.

Holy cow. How high was the truck?

Now would be a perfect time to upgrade. If you buy the same stuff, you might as well buy 5 cause it'll probably just break again.

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[mrtwohands]

Do y’all recommend the true track setup? Figured it might be worth it to ditch the tie rods.

[mrtwohands]

So before the truck broke the other day. I’m struggling to get this truck tuned on the low end. It still creeps on asphalt but not grass. Also when I pick it up off the ground the tires start spinning like crazy. I’ve never had this much trouble tuning something.

Took some pictures where it looks like there was some fuel or something coming from the front of the motor. So I thought maybe the clutch was dirty. What do you all think?

[mrtwohands]

[mrtwohands]

[cjtamu-redux]

Shouldn't be any fuel coming from the front of the motor. Is it idling high even though the carb gap is correct? That could cause clutch creep like you're describing and an air leak could cause that. This engine is new correct? So, I'd be surprised if you had a leaking crank bearing. Check the pinch bolt on the carburetor and make sure you don't have a tear in the air filter assembly. Possibly a tear in the fuel tubing but that's pretty rare. I think you'd already verified the fuel was good and the plug was new.

If it's not idling high, then look at the clutch. Make sure it's shimmed properly so the clutch bell isn't hitting the face of the clutch. Could also be that the spring is just stretched. That happened with the T-maxx I'm rebuilding, but it was really obvious it was stretched when I removed the clutch bell.

[cjtamu-redux]

Looking at the pics it looks like there’s fuel/oil up on the carb. Make sure the HSN assembly is snug. Mine was actually a hair loose on brand new engine with 4 tanks through it. Not tight, just snug to make sure it’s seated.

[mrtwohands]

Thanks for the tips. I will look in those.

How would I know if the clutch is shimmed right? The only shim I have is the one on the outside under the E clip.

[cjtamu-redux]

Thanks for the tips. I will look in those.

How would I know if the clutch is shimmed right? The only shim I have is the one on the outside under the E clip.

I believe that's the stock configuration. Works great on my engine. Clutch shimming is a touch feely thing. You want a small amount of play, 0.5 mm or less. You also want the clutch bell to spin freely and not hit the flywheel or the front of the clutch. And you also want the clutch bell to be positioned so it engages all of the spur gear. The good news is that if you're running the TRX 3.3 engine the stock shimming should get you pretty darn close on all of them.

[jdpasl]

Awesome posts, I am going to get T-MAXX this Saturday. Last week ago I got Jato 3.3. RC for Life.

[mrtwohands]

I believe that's the stock configuration. Works great on my engine. Clutch shimming is a touch feely thing. You want a small amount of play, 0.5 mm or less. You also want the clutch bell to spin freely and not hit the flywheel or the front of the clutch. And you also want the clutch bell to be positioned so it engages all of the spur gear. The good news is that if you're running the TRX 3.3 engine the stock shimming should get you pretty darn close on all of them.

Good to know. Thanks.

My clutch meets all of those standards. I’m going to clean everything up really good and check over it all again. Run it a few times and see what happens. Also going to put the carb back into factory settings. Especially now since I have a different fuel.

[mrtwohands]

RPM True Track came in today. Will hopefully get it installed tomorrow and then I can address the idle issues.