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  1. #1
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    Aug 2020
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    Rusty 4x4 brushless upgrade

    Greetings,

    I recently purchased a new Rustler 4x4 brushed and have been working on upgrading the ESC and motor. I purchased the Castle Sidewinder 3 / 3800kv motor combo and it sure zips, even with the 2S lipos I've been using. Overall, I've been happy, but I have two questions.

    First, I've found it difficult to mount the new ESC inside the chassis tray. As many of you already know, the Castle ESC doesn't have the tabs required to screw it down. I tried using some servo tape, but because of the honeycombing in the bottom of the chassis, I can't get good adhesion. I then drilled a couple holes and zip tied the ESC down, which worked...mostly. The ESC would break loose after landing big jumps (not ideal, obviously) and the power switch that comes off the new ESC keeps finding itself outside the chassis/body area. When I found the RPM ESC mounting cage, I was very excited, especially when I saw that they have a little switch housing (two birds, one stone!). I can't for the life of me, however, figure out how the cage is supposed to actually attach to the rustler chassis. The screw holes line up, but the profile of the ESC area on the chassis does not accommodate the cage laying flat. In reading the cage instructions from RPM I found that the ESC mounting plate from Traxxas (#3725) might be needed. I grabbed one of those from my LHS, but that also doesn't seem to articulate with the chassis. Am I just missing something simple here? Did I buy the wrong mounting parts?

    The second question is related to the sound my Rustler now makes when running. I feel like perhaps there is a little extra whine with this motor that I worry might be either added stress from the new brushless motor on the components in a stock 4x4 brushed setup, or that perhaps I have something misaligned. The motor mount in the Rustler 4x4 is a bit different than my older Stampede and has a bracket that doesn't really allow for any pinion mesh adjustment. Is there something else that I should look into? The power seems just fine, and the new system is a treat to drive, I just worry that I am causing additional wear unintentionally.

    Thanks for taking a look at my post, any and all constructive help is appreciated.

    Chris

  2. #2
    RC poster
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Palmerston
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    13
    You sure that extra whine is not just the slipper clutch working under load? I have the rpm cage coming for my side winder 4. Hope it fits! As for the pinion gear mesh it is adjustable, look at the one bolt holding motor plate, it has 3 holes, first sets the mesh for stock 10t pinion, second hole is for 13t and third is for 18t, if you want to run a pinion outside of these just remove that black spacer and set mesh manually. I just got this RC to and took out the brushed motor adding the SW4 with 1410/3800 motor and I run a 13t pinion on 7 cell( kids off-road) 2s Lipo for me off-road and 3s for me on road bashing. I also have the castle b-link adapter as to change settings on the fly with my iphone. Also a mesh dust cover( only use off-road with 7 cell and 2s as it causes my setup to overheat on 3s)

  3. #3
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    Join Date
    Jun 2020
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    8
    Quote Originally Posted by Redfisher1974 View Post
    You sure that extra whine is not just the slipper clutch working under load? I have the rpm cage coming for my side winder 4. Hope it fits! As for the pinion gear mesh it is adjustable, look at the one bolt holding motor plate, it has 3 holes, first sets the mesh for stock 10t pinion, second hole is for 13t and third is for 18t, if you want to run a pinion outside of these just remove that black spacer and set mesh manually. I just got this RC to and took out the brushed motor adding the SW4 with 1410/3800 motor and I run a 13t pinion on 7 cell( kids off-road) 2s Lipo for me off-road and 3s for me on road bashing. I also have the castle b-link adapter as to change settings on the fly with my iphone. Also a mesh dust cover( only use off-road with 7 cell and 2s as it causes my setup to overheat on 3s)
    The RPM cage fit nicely with the Sidewinder 4, I did trim the bottom of one of the cage screw holes to get it slightly more level on the chassis.

  4. #4
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    Aug 2020
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    3
    I forgot about that possibility of the slipper clutch making a little more noise, thanks! I have the castle link cable and I should probably adjust the ESC punch control. I think the stock setting is 100% and they actually recommend tuning it down after you get everything installed.

    I'm wondering if there is anything in the Rustler 4x4 VXL drivetrain that I should upgrade on my Rustler 4x4 now that it has the brushless motor. I was already thinking of re-gearing like you mentioned, but perhaps a stronger driveshaft or upgraded differentials are in order. In a semi-related note, I was also thinking of replacing the camber links and steering linkages with turnbuckles. The plastic linkages look like they are getting bent up a bit. I do worry though that I would just be changing the part most likely to break to something more difficult to replace.

  5. #5
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    Aug 2020
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    Palmerston
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    Quote Originally Posted by iamTRuTH View Post
    The RPM cage fit nicely with the Sidewinder 4, I did trim the bottom of one of the cage screw holes to get it slightly more level on the chassis.
    Thanks! Glad it fits!

  6. #6
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    Aug 2020
    Location
    Palmerston
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    Quote Originally Posted by cevanwells View Post
    I forgot about that possibility of the slipper clutch making a little more noise, thanks! I have the castle link cable and I should probably adjust the ESC punch control. I think the stock setting is 100% and they actually recommend tuning it down after you get everything installed.

    I'm wondering if there is anything in the Rustler 4x4 VXL drivetrain that I should upgrade on my Rustler 4x4 now that it has the brushless motor. I was already thinking of re-gearing like you mentioned, but perhaps a stronger driveshaft or upgraded differentials are in order. In a semi-related note, I was also thinking of replacing the camber links and steering linkages with turnbuckles. The plastic linkages look like they are getting bent up a bit. I do worry though that I would just be changing the part most likely to break to something more difficult to replace.
    Their is a vid on YouTube with all the parts needed to bring it up to VXL stats and how to install. That being said all I have done is regear to 13t pinion and added wheelie bar. I’ve run 20 packs now and not a single issue with my rusty. I’m just gonna run it and when or if parts break more then once I’ll update to the heavy duty parts. Get a temp gun to watch temps!

  7. #7
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    Aug 2020
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    Thank you for pointing me to the YouTube video. I'm linking it here for those who are interested.

    https://youtu.be/1NYCZbkZAnY

    The main focus is an upgraded slipper clutch, replaced front and rear diffs, and an upgraded driveshaft and couplings.

  8. #8
    RC poster
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    Aug 2020
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    7
    I kept the vxl3s and dropped a 540xl in. Its ridiculously overpowered. 20/54 gears for back yard bashing is effortless for my Hustler now.
    P.S. the vxl3s IS 4s capable.

  9. #9
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    61
    I had the same issue with my mamba x with the rpm cage. I superglued a couple shock piston heads together to use them as standoffs, then the sensor wire and some foam underneath to stabilize it a little. I'm running that same motor and it definitely makes a different noise than my buddy's vxl setup.
    Rustler 4x4 powered by MambaX

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