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Thread: New to me Revo

  1. #1
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    New to me Revo

    Afternoon everyone!

    Well, to keep a long story short. Bought a Tmaxx off FB marketplace. Motor was shot but thatís ok bought it knowing that is a possibility.

    Traded in shot motor for a new one. After digging into the the Tmaxx it was apparent that whoever had it before me it was in rough shape and not worth it to fix up.

    So here I am. Placed an offer on this Revo 3.3 and got it a few moments ago. Can anyone shed some light on it? Are there different models of them in the nitro world? I have owned a brushless revo years ago.


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    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Yes there are different models. Based upon the electronics cases and GTR shocks it is a newer model 5309. There was the 5309 back in 2006 but that model is a little different. The front body mounts are not stock as well as the tires/rims but everything else looks like it is. Though there are different models of the Revo, most parts have never changed since its birth though there are some differences. You cannot go wrong with searching for 5309 (2009 model and newer).
    The Super Derecho

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    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Very good. Thankful for the helpful information.

    Doing some research now on the single servo steering. Wanted to do it on the erevo I had but never got around to it.

    Want to add the 5 channel receiver in case I want add features down the road.

    Can swing by the LHS and get a new clutch, exhaust and other little items that may be needed.


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  5. #5
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    New to me Revo

    Maybe I missing it because there are so many Traxxas Radios. What radio do I need for this revo?

    Ad said they removed reverse. Iím assuming since it has forward only I donít need the servo for it?

    Do you make the Revo shift into second or is automatic with the 5398 part?

    Plan was to run the 6533 receiver with a 2ch transmitter in case I wanted to add telemetry later on.


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    Last edited by mrtwohands; 08-15-2020 at 08:01 PM.

  6. #6
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    If forward only has been installed then you don’t need a reverse servo, Opti-Drive or a 3-channel radio. A simple Traxxas 2-channel Radio is all that is needed. Mine is pulled from a Slash.

    Second gear shifts mechanically. There is a second gear pawl held back by a spring and when the rpm of the shaft is fast enough it overcomes the tension and engages the pawl into a pin inside the gear. As you slow down it releases and goes back to first.
    The Super Derecho

  7. #7
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    New to me Revo

    Thank you kindly. So I can remove the reverse servo from my list.

    Does that mean I donít need to run the optidrive 5398?

    So many parts on this truck.


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    Last edited by mrtwohands; 08-16-2020 at 09:27 AM.

  8. #8
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrtwohands View Post

    Does that mean I don’t need to run the optidrive 5398?



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    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    If forward only has been installed then you don’t need a reverse servo, Opti-Drive or a 3-channel radio.
    Throttle servo plugs directly into Ch2.
    The Super Derecho

  9. #9
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Fantastic thank you! Less stuff I need to buy


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    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Many of us that ran reverse got rid of the optidrive anyway as it had a tendency to cause issues. Regardless, without reverse, you do not need it.

    One of the subtle differences between the version of revo you have and the original is the chassis is longer between the brake disk and upper shock mount. The 2.5 revo was shorter than the 3.3 revo that you have.

    If yours doesn't have it, get the motor bay brace. It helps keep the chassis from cracking/bending when landing jumps. Not sure if my eyes are tired or what, but I can't tell for sure if yours has it. I have the M2C one on my BB revo. It's thicker and strengthens it up even more. Also allows for you to make a couple new holes and lock it to the chassis better.
    https://m2cracing.net/traxxas/33-tra...tor-mount.html

    Also, if your buying the full exhaust, get the spring mounted header. The solid mounted one tends to snap off. I went through 3 or 4 of them before going with the spring mounted one.
    https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5424-.../dp/B01GGERQT6
    https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5340X.../dp/B0015TZYR4

    Don't forget a coupler when you decide on your pipe:
    https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5245X.../dp/B000BOPSOS

    Single chamber gives more low end:
    https://traxxas.com/products/parts/5490

    vs the dual chamber:
    https://traxxas.com/products/parts/5493

    Getting a wing/wingmount for the ERBEv1 helps keep your body lasting longer as well. Gives you a bit of a "wheelie" bar for your less than optimal rear end landings.
    https://www.amainhobbies.com/traxxas...tra5446/p22591
    https://www.amainhobbies.com/traxxas...tra5411/p20970

    You might also want to throw on a chassis brace (listed for the erbe, but also works on the nitro) to support the rear body mount. With a wing on it, it tends to abuse the body mount/post thing quite a bit.
    https://www.amainhobbies.com/traxxas...ra5632/p357501

    I put one on my 21TM revo:


    Helps support the rear body mount and gives your pipe something to rest on so it's not relying on just the coupler and wire mount.

    If you can find one, the integy motor cage is pretty decent after you bend it a bit to fit right. I raised mine 3/4 inch or so with spacers so it would almost touch the roof of the body. Then the body doesn't flex so much and fall apart.
    https://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?...3#.XzmvVjV7lHY

    Does a better job keeping the engine from hitting the ground on a roof landing.
    Last edited by olds97_lss; 08-16-2020 at 05:16 PM.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  11. #11
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    +1 on the M2C brace. Had one on my race Revo many years ago. Solid piece. Have one ordered for the stock 3.3 Revo I just picked up from a buddy.

  12. #12
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    Mrtwohands, I'm working on a Revo I picked up from a buddy that's very similar to yours. If I have questions or find out anything interesting you mind if I post here rather than starting a second thread on the same vehicle?

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    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    New to me Revo

    Thank you for the information Olds and for the links. Really helps when I actually see what people are referring too.

    Once I receive the truck Iíll see for sure what all I need. I know the exhaust, clutch bell,radio/receiver, battery pack and servos for sure.

    Iím leaning towards the Amazon 25KG servos for steering/throttle/breaking. Seems to be what a lot of people on the Facebook groups use.


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    Last edited by mrtwohands; 08-17-2020 at 07:51 AM.

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    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjtamu-redux View Post
    Mrtwohands, I'm working on a Revo I picked up from a buddy that's very similar to yours. If I have questions or find out anything interesting you mind if I post here rather than starting a second thread on the same vehicle?
    Absolutely, feel free to post anything. It could help us both.


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  15. #15
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Looks like I still need around $250 worth of goodies

    Could have bought a brand new for what the total cost will be . But where is the fun in that. Most of these items I am sourcing off eBay.

    Items listed below and of course this is solely based on pictures:

    Header
    Exhaust gaskets (May have some)
    Muffler
    Air filter assembly
    Clutch assembly (bearings, clutch bell, clutch)
    Steering/throttle servo
    Battery pack
    Transmitter/receiver


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  16. #16
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrtwohands View Post
    Iím leaning towards the Amazon 25KG servos for steering/throttle/breaking. Seems to be what a lot of people on the Facebook groups use.
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    Those aren't too bad, not the fastest, but for the $, decent servos, if your talking about the red cased ones. They aren't listed as waterproof though. I got one of the blue ones labeled as having a coreless motor and it had a lot of movement before it would hold fast. I ended up going with a Hobbystar HCS-4521wp on both my outcast and ERBEv2, but I have them running at 7.2V from the BEC. Running off a receiver pack, you won't be able to leverage the higher voltage servo. They do perform pretty well even off a 6V nimh pack though.


    The JX DC-5821LV is a pretty cheap and decent 6V servo. I ran one of those in my ERBEv2 before I upgraded to an ESC that allowed me to run more volts. Still running one in my stampede 4x4.
    https://www.amazon.com/JX-DC5821LV-W.../dp/B079HZL171

    Got a video comparing those two the best I could, first on a 6V NiMH pack, then at 6V in my ERBEv2, then the HCS-4521wp at 7.2V in my ERBEv2:


    Both of those are listed as waterproof. I typically only buy waterproof now, then I don't have to be careful when cleaning with the hose and running in wet grass or snow. I did buy one of the red 25KG servos though just to try out. Was told that while they aren't listed as waterproof, people haven't had any issues when getting them wet. Regardless, I'd never use one for a throttle/brake servo. I definitely only use waterproof for that. Learned the hard way... lol!
    Last edited by olds97_lss; 08-17-2020 at 12:17 PM.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  17. #17
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    New to me Revo

    Thatís a good point of keeping them waterproof. When I ran nitro years ago you couldnít help but find water somehow

    Iíll check these out. Purchased the transmitter/radio today. Will probably order the exhaust setup on eBay as well. Itís so much cheaper as the whole setup is around $40.

    Also, after the deal with the used Tmaxx the LHS has a brand new 3.3 TMaxx for $489. Iím really thinking about picking it up to pair with this revo.


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  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrtwohands View Post
    Thatís a good point of keeping them waterproof. When I ran nitro years ago you couldnít help but find water somehow

    Iíll check these out. Purchased the transmitter/radio today. Will probably order the exhaust setup on eBay as well. Itís so much cheaper as the whole setup is around $40.

    Also, after the deal with the used Tmaxx the LHS has a brand new 3.3 TMaxx for $489. Iím really thinking about picking it up to pair with this revo.


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    You know, I thought about picking one up as well, but they never fixed the bulkheads. The ends of the hinge pins aren't supported by a metal plate. That was one lingering issue I wish they had done something about. I think the diffs/axles are revo spec now, so those shouldn't be an issue anymore. That was another sore spot for me with that truck 15 years ago (pre 3.3).

    The revo didn't have either of those issues... but then the inboard suspension and monocoque chassis brought in a couple new ones. I.e. bending the engine bay area, bending rocker posts, snapping rockers/rocker arms, fast wearing/stretching rod ends...
    Last edited by olds97_lss; 08-17-2020 at 03:45 PM.
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  19. #19
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    You know, I thought about picking one up as well, but they never fixed the bulkheads. The ends of the hinge pins aren't supported by a metal plate. That was one lingering issue I wish they had done something about. I think the diffs/axles are revo spec now, so those shouldn't be an issue anymore. That was another sore spot for me with that truck 15 years ago (pre 3.3).

    The revo didn't have either of those issues... but then the inboard suspension and monocoque chassis brought in a couple new ones. I.e. bending the engine bay area, bending rocker posts, snapping rockers/rocker arms, fast wearing/stretching rod ends...
    Itís funny you mention that. I purchased a used brushed emaxx years ago. Ran it that way for about a month and converted it to brushless. Literally every time I took it out I broke something. And Iím not that hard on them. Thatís honestly one reason I havenít gone up there to get the Tmaxx yet.

    Dang, I guess with anything there is always a drawback of some sort. But usually there is someone much more intelligent then me making aftermarket parts for these reason .

    The slash 4x4 I had was near bulletproof. I would launch that thing 12 feet up and 20 long through the air. It was a blast and rarely broke anything and it took a few good hits. Thatís the only one I regret letting go. But wanted to give nitro another run.

    The LHS also has a Jato 3.3 brand new for $399. Have been looking into them as well.


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  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrtwohands View Post
    But usually there is someone much more intelligent then me making aftermarket parts for these reason .
    RC Solutions used to make bulkheads and a little plate that captured the rear side of the front hinge pins. Can't recall if they had anything for the front side, but either way, you had to use their hinge pins as well so they would be long enough.

    I don't know anyone else that made a better designed bulkhead in that regard. Others made them out of alloy, but you'd still bend the pins then have to fight the world to get them out. Unlimited Racing probably had the best ones made out of 7075 with helicoils for all the screws vs just threaded aluminum. Even theirs didn't capture the pins though.

    It's just not a great design and would need a bit of rethinking to make new bulkheads/hinge pins/plates.

    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

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    Quote Originally Posted by mrtwohands View Post

    Also, after the deal with the used Tmaxx the LHS has a brand new 3.3 TMaxx for $489. I’m really thinking about picking it up to pair with this revo.


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    Do it! Because after I finish a few tweaks on this Revo I’m going to rebuild an 11-12 year old 3.3 T-max. The bulkheads were revised on the 3.3. Same basic design but stronger, gray plastic.

    Anyone know if the aluminum pivot ball dust caps for the T-max fit the Revo? Seems like I had aluminum ones on my old Revo, can’t for the life of me remember where they came from.

  22. #22
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    RC Solutions used to make bulkheads and a little plate that captured the rear side of the front hinge pins. Can't recall if they had anything for the front side, but either way, you had to use their hinge pins as well so they would be long enough.

    I don't know anyone else that made a better designed bulkhead in that regard. Others made them out of alloy, but you'd still bend the pins then have to fight the world to get them out. Unlimited Racing probably had the best ones made out of 7075 with helicoils for all the screws vs just threaded aluminum. Even theirs didn't capture the pins though.

    It's just not a great design and would need a bit of rethinking to make new bulkheads/hinge pins/plates.

    I agree. With the little bit of knowledge I have on this setup itís always been a weak point. Iím sure a lot of companies are not working on nitro setups anymore as theyíre a dying breed, unfortunately.

    Quote Originally Posted by cjtamu-redux View Post
    Do it! Because after I finish a few tweaks on this Revo Iím going to rebuild an 11-12 year old 3.3 T-max. The bulkheads were revised on the 3.3. Same basic design but stronger, gray plastic.

    Anyone know if the aluminum pivot ball dust caps for the T-max fit the Revo? Seems like I had aluminum ones on my old Revo, canít for the life of me remember where they came from.
    Nice, Iíll be looking for your build. I really am debating it. Iíll see how Iím feeling when I go up there tomorrow to get a few parts from the LHS. Their prices are kind of hard to beat.


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  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjtamu-redux View Post
    Do it! Because after I finish a few tweaks on this Revo I’m going to rebuild an 11-12 year old 3.3 T-max. The bulkheads were revised on the 3.3. Same basic design but stronger, gray plastic.
    Are they made any different or just out of different plastic?
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

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    As I recall, a little beefier and a different plastic but same basic design. Been a long time since I’ve seen a set of the black ones so don’t quote me.

  25. #25
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjtamu-redux View Post
    As I recall, a little beefier and a different plastic but same basic design. Been a long time since I’ve seen a set of the black ones so don’t quote me.
    The grey bulkheads are the same material as the black ones, just designed slightly different (reinforced in areas).

  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjtamu-redux View Post
    As I recall, a little beefier and a different plastic but same basic design. Been a long time since Iíve seen a set of the black ones so donít quote me.
    No problem, was just curious. I think if I had a tmaxx again, I'd try the RPM ones. Then again... would probably make the hinge pin issue worse. lol!

    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    The grey bulkheads are the same material as the black ones, just designed slightly different (reinforced in areas).
    I went through so many black ones in my 2.5 maxx... probably didn't help that it seemed I was pulling a diff every other weekend which caused the screw threads to strip early. Didn't seem to matter with the plastic bulkheads though, one off kilter landing and they would crack on me.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  27. #27
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Went to the hobby shop today. They have a Tmaxx 3.3 and a Jato 3.3.

    Since I already have this Revo build going I may add the Jato and have an on/off road car.

    Would be nice to have the extra speed. And I do miss the nitro rustler I had years ago.


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    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    The jato is fun. Never ran mine much on road. Drove it quite a bit many years ago. The 2.5R was too fussy for me. I did have a .18TM in it for a while, but after breaking 3 18TM crank cases from jumping, I put a 2.5R back in it, then broke 2 more. I created a dam out of tape for the crank case area, filled it with JB weld, lightly put saran wrap down, the bolted down the engine and let it cure. My crank case issues went away and was left with the wandering tune, then it sat a few years.

    Ended up converting it to electric, then fell in love with it again.

    Still faster than I can drive, but a lot of fun airing it out.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  29. #29
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Very nice. Really wanting to try and stick with nitro for a bit.

    Donít usually have a lot of time to run them and thatís why I ended up selling everything. Shouldnít have but you love and learn lol

    Hoping I can just gas up and go. Donít have to deal with batteries. That being said I will have another electric to run at night and in bad weather.


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  30. #30
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    I went through so many black ones in my 2.5 maxx... probably didn't help that it seemed I was pulling a diff every other weekend which caused the screw threads to strip early. Didn't seem to matter with the plastic bulkheads though, one off kilter landing and they would crack on me.
    Me too! I went with aluminum bulkheads /RPM arms combo and it worked great.

    Quote Originally Posted by mrtwohands View Post
    Went to the hobby shop today. They have a Tmaxx 3.3 and a Jato 3.3.

    Since I already have this Revo build going I may add the Jato and have an on/off road car.

    Would be nice to have the extra speed. And I do miss the nitro rustler I had years ago.
    I went with an off road-Jato. It is a handful and lots of fun being 2wd. Only downside is the small fuel tank.



    I prefer the Revo and Jato over the T-maxx/S-maxx.

  31. #31
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Nice. I am digging the off road jato setups. Making me want to go up there buy it


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  32. #32
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    So what does everyone use for a battery pack for the receiver?

    Purchased the 3036 pack from LHS but of course there is no charger. Is there an alternative?


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  33. #33
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Team Orion Marathon 5-cell stick pack (not the XL - too big) and Lectron Pro life battery. Traxxas #3035 should be installed in the receiver box and I made a charging wire to plug into the charging port.
    The Super Derecho

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    [IMG]20200816_105430 by Critter, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]20200811_161155 by Critter, on Flickr[/IMG]

    Mrtwohands, I think this is probably very similar to how yours looked stock. Good point of reference. You can see the switch (TRX No. 3035) that Double G mentioned. Mine has a charge port beneath the radio tray that the charge jack would plug into. This Revo is pretty much box stock. I traded a couple of my 1/10 2wd buggies for it about 4 years ago so a buddy of mine could have something to play with. He played with it a bit, then it sat for awhile, but he forgot to after run and killed the crank bearings. And tires dry rotted, so he put in a brand new 3.3 (I put tank 6 through it yesterday), new EZ start assembly and harness, and new tires and wheels. He bought a UDR about a month ago and the Revo came to live with me.

    I forgot what a good little engine this 3.3 is, and I forgot what great fuel mileage it gets. I ran it hard yesterday, just a hair rich on bottom still and got about 13 minutes out of a tank. You'll like it in this truck. Mine has a small fuel leak, believe it's at the seam in the tank. welcome to nitro ha ha. New tank OTW. And it will shift into reverse perfectly, but no go backwards. Assuming it's a stripped gear, but not an issue you'll have since you have FOC.

    Question for the Revo experts. There's a screw that comes from the underside of the chassis at the rear of the radio tray. Connects the tray to the chassis. My screw actually hits the underside of the front of the tank. Is this common? Doesn't look like it's cracked the tank yet, but I'm taking a Dremel to it this weekend before I install the new tank.

  35. #35
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjtamu-redux View Post

    Question for the Revo experts. There's a screw that comes from the underside of the chassis at the rear of the radio tray. Connects the tray to the chassis. My screw actually hits the underside of the front of the tank. Is this common? Doesn't look like it's cracked the tank yet, but I'm taking a Dremel to it this weekend before I install the new tank.
    Measure it as it should be a 4x10mm screw.
    The Super Derecho

  36. #36
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrtwohands View Post
    So what does everyone use for a battery pack for the receiver?

    Purchased the 3036 pack from LHS but of course there is no charger. Is there an alternative?
    Do you have a NiMh charger already? I use Traxxas #3028 adapter to charge my receiver battery on my charger.

  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrtwohands View Post
    So what does everyone use for a battery pack for the receiver?

    Purchased the 3036 pack from LHS but of course there is no charger. Is there an alternative?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I've used a few. I think I have one of these in both of my revo's at the moment:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tenergy-6V-...s/332331379073
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038B9DO2/

    I have an old MRC 959 charger I use for my receiver, transmitter and glow batteries... have also added a receiver plug to every push light in the house and have LSD NiMH AA's in them to charge on it. lol!

    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  38. #38
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Bay City, TX
    Posts
    123
    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    Measure it as it should be a 4x10mm screw.
    Thank you, sir. Might go grab my calipers in a bit.

  39. #39
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Warner Robins, Georgia
    Posts
    1,942
    Thanks everyone. Some good information here.

    No charger and have two traxxas receiver packs now since the truck came with one.

    Iíll get a charger here soon. Might as well get one that chargers lipos and just get an assortment of charger plugs.

    Eventually Iíll get another one and get another electric.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  40. #40
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Bay City, TX
    Posts
    123
    Since yours is used I’d suggest you check all the pivot balls for binding. If the dust caps are tightened too much it can bind the suspension. Found a couple on mine that were too tight, much better handling after I corrected.

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