Yeah, check the cradle pieces for cracks. They tend to shatter vs bend. I keep a spare set of those on hand. You may have tweaked the engine bay area of the chassis as well.
https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss
Yep. If you're a big air kind of guy you need the M2C brace. If they don't have it call him and see if they're making more.
I don’t see where they still make it or at least it’s not listed on their site. May reach out to them.
Either way I did the motor sorted out, I think, as I have not tested it yet. Everything has gone back together correctly and also wanted to show off the new wheels and tires I mounted up the other day. Major difference from the big joes![]()
I really like those on my outcast. I was running 3.8" trenchers before, never ran the stock outcast tires (assuming that's what those are). They are very light and get a ton of grip in the grass. Not something I'd run at skate parks... thinking of getting a second set for my ERBEv2 now that I have 1/2" offset hubs on it. Will just have to change to the trenchers on days where I want to visit a skate park or they would likely get chewed up pretty fast.
https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss
You’re correct they’re factory outcast wheels. So far they’re fantastic and cheaper than the proline option.
Now I am considering new gearing options. Running 14/38 now. Thinking about 14/40. What do y’all think?
14/40 would be lower gearing than 14/38. If it was doing ok with the big joes on 14/38, then you should be fine with 14/38 with the backflips. I have to guess they are lighter than the big joes as they are a pretty light tire/wheel combo.
https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss
Yes definitely lighter than the Big Joes. Too be honest I’m not a fan of the Big Joes but they came on the truck. Used them in the past. They preform and look good but just not my favorite.
Yes the 14/38 worked fine. Just wanted to try different gearing setups purely for enjoyment.
Did find out today the motor mount is in fact cracked and that’s why the spur gear stripped. Oh well guess I’ll buy another one. Other than the M2C what other good options are there?![]()
I don't know. I tried finding CNC'd cradle pieces for my big block mount, but didn't find much other than integy and gpm, so not sure if there is anything much better than stock out there.
https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss
Got ya. Made a trip to the LHS to get a factory one. Talk about a big pain in the behind to replace. Had to remove the entire rear of the truck. Oh well. New one is installed and ready to roll tomorrow.
Yep, that is a bit of a pain.
Be careful when installing the upper shock mount screws/bolts. Make sure you use the ones specific to the length needed. I installed the traxxas rear brace and used screws that were a bit too long (needed to be 2-3mm longer, but mine were 4-5mm). They poked through the bulkhead and pushed on the cradle where it wraps around the bulkhead and shattered it. Man was I ticked! Had to wait a week for a new cradle to show up. Very annoying!
https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss
It’s funny you mention that because I also did the same thing. Got the longer screw started and realized it halfway through. Thankfully. With how many screws you have to remove it’s very easy to get confused. Even when trying to be organized.
how did you mount the pipe when installing the rear brace?
I'm refering to what @olds97_lss said
Hey mrtwohands, I talked to Mitch at M2C today and he has braces back in stock. As good a $20 as you will ever spend on your Revo.
Took the Revo out today. First time in weeks. Landed some backflips, large gaps and a few fails![]()
All in all it was a good time. Can’t say I’m mad for just how many time I jumped it. Check out my Instagram for a short clip of some of them. poorguyedc
Broke a rear a-arm, front rocker, and dented the header. I am open to suggestions on replacement a-arms.
Stock, rpm or rpm true track?![]()
Is that brace a better version of the stock one? (all I have at the moment) https://traxxas.com/products/parts/5361
Yes. Thicker, covers more, and is actually attached to the chassis.
The newest models have sensors wires up to motor for the blue tooth hookup err engine temps supposed speed etc look for a wire going to bottom of cylinder head for sensor for blue tooth phone readings on traxxas phone app
Here’s a riddle. What rattles, keeps your engine from idling even with the wheels off the ground, but stops rattling if you grab the heat sink head? If you said a rear crank bearing you’re a winner! Little over a gallon through this 3.3 and it’s never been over temped or over leaned. Pretty disappointed. Doesn’t sound like I’m the first person to have this issue. I’m going to replace front and rear both while I’m in there. Anyone tried the Fast Eddy or Avid bearings for the 3.3?
Thanks fellas.