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Thread: New to me Revo

  1. #41
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Thank you for the tip. I did a quick overview when I got it but I agree. Does need a full check since itís used.


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  2. #42
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    New to me Revo

    Disregard please
    Last edited by mrtwohands; 08-23-2020 at 07:36 AM. Reason: Error

  3. #43
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    New to me Revo

    Looking at the manual. If I have a forward only conversion do I just plug the throttle servo into channel 2 on the receiver? I will not be unitizing the optidrive.

    Also, when installing the steering servo do the black tabs that come off the chassis in the steering servo location fit over the ends of the servo? Where the screws go through.




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  4. #44
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrtwohands View Post
    Looking at the manual. If I have a forward only conversion do I just plug the throttle servo into channel 2 on the receiver? I will not be unitizing the optidrive.
    That looks right. I never ran the traxxas receiver in mine, or the optidrive though.

    Quote Originally Posted by mrtwohands View Post
    Also, when installing the steering servo do the black tabs that come off the chassis in the steering servo location fit over the ends of the servo? Where the screws go through.
    Yes. They should kind of lock onto the servo ears.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  5. #45
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    New to me Revo

    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    That looks right. I never ran the traxxas receiver in mine, or the optidrive though.



    Yes. They should kind of lock onto the servo ears.
    Fantastic, thank you. Now Iím on the quest for servos.

    I bought the 25KG servos off amazon everyone talks about but now Iím wondering if I made a mistake and should return them. Anyone have any experience with them?

    Looking at the savox sa1230sg. One for throttle and steering. But is it worth it so spend $150 on two servos?

    Thinking the savox for steering and just a traxxas 2056 for the throttle should do just fine and save quite a bit of money.


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    Last edited by mrtwohands; 08-23-2020 at 06:17 PM.

  6. #46
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Considering they will be pulling 5.3A @6V (that's stall amps though), I'd be hesitant to run them off a NiMH 6V pack. Might be ok, but 10A sounds like a lot for a 1200-1600mah NiMH 2/3A pack.

    After having my savox 1210sg die on me in under a year in my outcast (most of which on 6V), I decided to go a cheaper route with the Hobbystar HCS-4521wp and see how they do. If they last at least 6 months, I'm still money ahead buying them on sale for $35 a piece. I run one on both my ERBEv2 and Outcast 6S at 7.2V.

    This one for $20 is a decent servo:
    https://www.amazon.com/JX-DC5821LV-W.../dp/B079HZL171

    I ran that in my ERBEv2 with esc's that supplied only 6V and it had plenty of torque (300oz) to overtake the HD servo saver spring and deal with 3.8" trenchers. Wasn't the fastest though, .16sec. I still run one in my stampede 4x4 and it does fine there too.

    I made a comparison video of the HCS-4521wp on 6v and 7.2v compared to the DC5821LV at 6V in my ERBEv2:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NN62qpoObH8

    Not the most scientific, but gives you an idea.

    Did a bit of a comparison of these as well:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YZPmuLOB5Ow

    DS Servo DS3225 Blue - Coreless, waterproof, digital
    DS Servo DS3225 Red - Cored I think, waterproof, digital
    Savox 1210sg
    JX DC-5821LV
    Savox 0231mg

    Arrma ADS-15M
    Hitec 985MG
    Traxxas 2075
    Powe KS-3620

    Can't suggest the DS3225 blue, seems like it would be good, but the one I got had about 1/8th movement before it would hold, which was a lot for steering.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  7. #47
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Thank you for that information. When it comes to servos Iím not that great with them.

    When you say you wouldnít run them. Do you mean the Amazon 25KG or the Savox?

    Iíll be honest, and this will sound stupid, but when I got them in the mail and it said made in China I almost sent them back because of that .

    Thatís a really good comparison video too. Some things donít always need to be. It did show the lag which is nice to see.


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  8. #48
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    I'd be concerned running 2 of the savox's off a 6V NiMH pack. It's just a lot of amps. With just the single Savox 1210SG running off a fully charged 2/3A 1600mah NiMH pack, I would see the light on the receiver dim when just going back and forth from lock to lock with no load. It pulls 6A at stall. The savox's you suggested pull 5.3A at stall, so 2 of them in the truck would be a lot for a NiMH pack to deal with I'd think.

    I completely missed you asking about the 25KG amazon red servo. I bought one of those to have on hand to try out. It's in the second video I posted.

    "DS Servo DS3225 Red - Cored I think, waterproof, digital"

    It's at the beginning, second from the left with the DS3225 blue on the far left. The DS3225 blue that I bought isn't one I'd recommend.

    The DS3225 "red" Seemed decent, not the fastest, but strong. Also not labeled as waterproof. I'll only run waterproof on any nitro for throttle/brake. Have had too many get wet over the years and run away. They always seem to go WOT when they fail, never full brake...
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  9. #49
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    New to me Revo

    Might be a dumb question question.

    Does stall voltage mean itís pulling that voltage while just sitting there?

    If so that makes sense running to powerful servos. So how about a high torque steering servo and the traxxas 2056 throttle? Itís a waterproof throttle servo and cheaper.

    Iím not against using the dual 2075 servos either for steering.


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    Last edited by mrtwohands; 08-23-2020 at 08:12 PM.

  10. #50
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    Since you’re buying servos anyway the single servo mod is nice. As I recall you end up with a little more steering when done. Been a long time. You don’t need a massive amount of torque for the throttle servo. I like something with a transit speed around 0.10. Stall current is the amp draw at the servo’s max torque. Servos are one of the places I don’t try to save money. I have servos that are 15+ years old that still work great. And they’ve seen a lot of use. Set your end points correctly and they’ll last a long time.

    Just looked up the specs on the stock Traxxas throttle servo. 80 oz torque and my Revo will stop in a hurry.
    Last edited by cjtamu-redux; 08-23-2020 at 09:55 PM.

  11. #51
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    For throttle/brake, I tend to stick with something waterproof, less than .14sec transit time and >150oz/in of torque. Brakes take a lot of "stall" power and while a weaker servo can usually do the job, a stronger/higher torque one tends to last longer because it doesn't strain as much.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  12. #52
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    I use the 2075 for my throttle/brake. For me it's a noticeable difference in the brakes from the 2055 stock one.

  13. #53
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    10-4. Thank you all for the help! Thatís a good tip about a waterproof servo for the throttle and break.

    May swap the Tmaxx over to waterproof as well.


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  14. #54
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    My first runaway due to water was with my xxx-nt driving in the winter. Little bit of snow/slush on the ground, I didn't know any better at the time, all the sudden it takes off like an idiot down the alley. Ended up slamming under someones car and smashing into the side of their carport at WOT. Busted the entire front end off.

    Another of my more disastrous runaways was with a t-maxx 2.5 back in the day with stock servos. Was driving it around, it went in a dip in the park that had water in it. Upon quick inspection, seemed ok, continued driving for a bit, then the rpm's started climbing on their own... mash the brake, nothing, just keeps accelerating. Last I saw it was heading over a hill... then a loud "whack" and hear the engine screaming mad. Run towards the noise and find it hit a tree head on. Busted bulks, diff case, skid plate and 2 arms... oh, and the clutch was fried too by then. Also found that the engine mount was busted.

    No more non-waterproof servos for me. 20 years ago, they were few and far between. Now days, you can get good ones pretty cheap, so why risk it? Besides, water proof also means dust/dirt proof, so no dust/dirt getting in the motor/gears over time chewing them up either.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  15. #55
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    New to me Revo

    That is crazy! Iím glad there are forums for moments like this. That is something that makes sense but nothing I would have thought of to be honest. With that said the only thing that matters in the end is that people learn from their experiences.

    So I am really thinking about buying the Hobbystar 4521 that you recommended for the steering and maybe the 2075 for the throttle. A little step up from the servo that comes on it.

    What do you all thinking about that setup? Servos is all I have left to get the truck operational.


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    Last edited by mrtwohands; 08-24-2020 at 06:43 PM.

  16. #56
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    That should work well for you. Down the line, you could check out the 4519. At 6V, it's fast and plenty of torque for brakes:
    https://www.rcjuice.com/servos/servo...tal-servo.html

    Speed @4.8V: 0.12 sec
    Speed @6.0V: 0.09 sec
    Speed @8.4V: 0.08 sec
    Torque @4.8V: 180 oz/in
    Torque @6.0V: 222 oz/in
    Torque @8.4V: 278 oz/in
    Pulse/Frequency: 1500Ķ/330Hz
    Dimensions: (LxWxH) 40.5x20x37.5mm
    Weight: 58g
    Bearing: Dual ball bearing
    Gears: Steel
    Motor: Digital Coreless
    Input Voltage: 4.8V-8.4V
    Output Shaft: 25T spline
    Wire Harness Length: 260mm
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  17. #57
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    New to me Revo

    Quote Originally Posted by olds97_lss View Post
    That should work well for you. Down the line, you could check out the 4519. At 6V, it's fast and plenty of torque for brakes:
    https://www.rcjuice.com/servos/servo...tal-servo.html

    Speed @4.8V: 0.12 sec
    Speed @6.0V: 0.09 sec
    Speed @8.4V: 0.08 sec
    Torque @4.8V: 180 oz/in
    Torque @6.0V: 222 oz/in
    Torque @8.4V: 278 oz/in
    Pulse/Frequency: 1500Ķ/330Hz
    Dimensions: (LxWxH) 40.5x20x37.5mm
    Weight: 58g
    Bearing: Dual ball bearing
    Gears: Steel
    Motor: Digital Coreless
    Input Voltage: 4.8V-8.4V
    Output Shaft: 25T spline
    Wire Harness Length: 260mm
    What are the odds. Thatís the company thatís selling the 4521 on amazon.

    Would it be worth it to get this one now over the 2075? And I can run both of them on the factory 6V battery pack?


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    Last edited by mrtwohands; 08-24-2020 at 07:21 PM.

  18. #58
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Went ahead and ordered them. Can always send back or keep for another day.

    Ordered one 4521 for steering and one 4519 for throttle and break


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  19. #59
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Post up how they work for you. I know the 4521 is decent and should be plenty for a t-maxx. Never tried the 4519, but guessing it's the same as the 4521, just with different gears in it to make it faster and lose some torque.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  20. #60
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    Throttle return spring is a lifesaver. It protects against mechanicals (servo failure, throttle linkage getting disconnected, etc.) and power loss, situations where a failsafe doesn't do any good. For a slide carb I typically use a little elastic hair band. They're handy because you can adjust to the length you need to get the right tension to pull your particular servo back to closed. And they last a long time.

    Mrtwohands, couple pics of the M2C Racing brace I installed last night. One with the original brace laid on top of it so you can see how much the M2C brace adds. When I ordered mine last week they only had 2 more left and I don't know if he's making any more.

    [IMG]20200825_073651 by Critter, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]20200825_073740 by Critter, on Flickr[/IMG]

  21. #61
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Thanks olds. Went ahead and ordered the 2075 servo as well. Can try them both out.

    CJ, I cannot see your photos.


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  22. #62
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Odd, I can see his photo's.

    My big block has that brace:


    My 21TM revo has the traxxas brace:


    Wish I could find a good 7075 set of cradle arms that bolt/tie to the underside of the bulkhead though as I still crack those in half on occasion.

    Looks like they are out of stock though. Can maybe find one on ebay or at amain, I think they used to carry some M2C stuff.
    https://m2cracing.net/traxxas/33-tra...tor-mount.html
    Last edited by olds97_lss; 08-25-2020 at 03:07 PM.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  23. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrtwohands View Post
    Thanks olds. Went ahead and ordered the 2075 servo as well. Can try them both out.

    CJ, I cannot see your photos.


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    Huh. Could be a Flickr issue since that’s who I used to host. Or maybe the machine you’re on blocks Flickr?

  24. #64
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    That does look nice. May have to consider getting one. So what is the purpose of running those braces?

    Must be tapatalk blocks those Flickr photos. I can see them using a browser.

  25. #65
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    mrtwohands What happens if you click on the link where the pictures don't show up for you? They are showing up for me and if I click on the numbers (link to picture) it brings me to the Flickr web site of the picture.

    Edit: You can see them. Posted at the same time
    Last edited by grizzly03; 08-25-2020 at 04:31 PM. Reason: posting same time

  26. #66
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrtwohands View Post
    That does look nice. May have to consider getting one. So what is the purpose of running those braces?
    Adds rigidity to the engine bay area. Really, a lot of the load is on the thin cast aluminum pieces that bolt to the underside of the bulkhead. The brace just helps gives a more solid platform. It still flexes, but not as bad as it would without either of them. The thicker plate helps more from forward/back flex. Keeps from cooking spurs and having the chassis fatigue in that area and crack. I've had that happen at least once in the past before I started running a big block. The big block makes it worse since there's more weight hammering on it on every landing.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  27. #67
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    Yep. Big air and/or casing a jump could tweak the chassis. You can see the M2C brace is bigger, and itís actually bolted to the chassis. Heís a nice guy, could call or email and see if theyíre making more.
    Last edited by cjtamu-redux; 08-25-2020 at 09:23 PM.

  28. #68
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  29. #69
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    I got ya. Thank you both for the recommendation. Whenever I start jumping it I may look into this. For $20 seems like it would be worth it.

    Iíve been seeing M2C mentioned a lot with the chassisí they manufacture for Arrma. Seems like they are a good complete for sure.


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  30. #70
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    All Iím waiting on now is the clutch and servos. Then I should be ready to rock n roll





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  31. #71
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    An upgrade that has saved me headaches is going to the spring mount header. I cracked two of the bolt on style like in your pic. I haven't had any issue since I switched. Link: Traxxas part #5340X

  32. #72
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Thanks grizzly Iíll keep that in mind.

    Does anyone have a picture of the carb linkage setup and the fuel line routing? Ive tried google but it brings up stuff but not clearly.


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  33. #73
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Do these help? Let me know if a different angle photo is needed. For the fuel line I just looped how i liked the fit.


  34. #74
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Yeah I saw those on the traxxas site but I still canít get the carb into the linkage


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  35. #75
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    This is my dilemma.

    The catch for the throttle linkage doesnít coincide with the carb ball. Iím not entirely sure I have the servo linkages installed correctly.

    This picture is with the motor mounted (yes Iím holding in place) with the servo on and centered with the linkages.




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  36. #76
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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  37. #77
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    The easiest way I do it is remove the screw holding the plastic linkage part. Install motor and then slide the linkage piece on the carb arm and reinstall the screw.

    You can unhook the return spring to make it easier.


    Or, you could take the carb arm off and install motor and put it back on in the linkage slot.
    Last edited by grizzly03; 08-26-2020 at 04:41 PM. Reason: another way

  38. #78
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    I adjust all the linkage after the engine is installed with the gearing I'm using (gear mesh). Because the linkage could change when the gearing is changed.

    Same for installing the exhaust pipe. Adjust the pipe hanger last after the engine is tightened down.

  39. #79
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    By golly I think I got it. Thank you!

    Card slide has full range of motion. Iím so ready for the rest of the parts to get here. Not looking forward to the pull the start again though






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  40. #80
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    There you go. You can wedge it in there without disconnecting anything, it's just a tight squeeze. Does your TQi radio have adjustable endpoints? Be sure you get those set if it does so the servo pulls the carb to full open then doesn't continue to pull. Save your servos that way. I actually cut my fuel tubing, with 150 cc tank I didn't see the need for it. If you haven't already cover up that carb throat so nothing unwanted gets in.

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