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Thread: New to me Revo

  1. #81
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjtamu-redux View Post
    ...I actually cut my fuel tubing, with 150 cc tank I didn't see the need for it...
    That extra fuel line is great when you flip it over. It's that much longer it will run before stalling from lack of fuel. It gives me plenty of time to flip my truck back over without the need to sprint to it. Plus it saves me from needing to re-prime and restart.
    Last edited by grizzly03; 08-26-2020 at 07:22 PM.

  2. #82
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Yeah I need see about the fuel line. Whatís on there is how it came. Still need to clean the fuel tank as well. Was debating on making the fuel line longer for that extra run time. More or less want to get it running right now and then Iíll fine tune and setup how i like it. Have never owned a nitro Revo so itís a learning experience for sure.

    So ready to get thing running. Ran the new Tmaxx again today. Have put almost two quarts through it now.


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  3. #83
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Your going to get pampered with the handling of the Revo compared to the T-Maxx. You might want to use the T-maxx as much as you can before the Revo is running. LoL!

  4. #84
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrtwohands View Post
    Iíve been seeing M2C mentioned a lot with the chassisí they manufacture for Arrma. Seems like they are a good complete for sure.
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    Yep, I have that too, on my outcast.

    I turned the original one into a taco not too long after getting it. After bending it flat the 3rd time, decided it was time to drop the $ on the M2C. Been a year and a loooooooooot of air under since and is still straight as a pin.


    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    An upgrade that has saved me headaches is going to the spring mount header. I cracked two of the bolt on style like in your pic. I haven't had any issue since I switched. Link: Traxxas part #5340X
    I had that same issue. After snapping the 5th header off just from landing a decent jump flat... it was time for change.

    I also run an e-revo/revo top shock->body mount brace for the pipe itself to rest on to take all the impact out of the header completely.


    Having that would have likely caused me not to break any headers.

    On my BB revo, I just have a spare turnbuckle I had laying around doing the same job. I should get the traxxas brace for that too, it fits better.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  5. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    That extra fuel line is great when you flip it over. It's that much longer it will run before stalling from lack of fuel. It gives me plenty of time to flip my truck back over without the need to sprint to it. Plus it saves me from needing to re-prime and restart.
    There's an obvious solution to that . Mrtwohands, every M2C part I've purchased has been top notch. I raced a version 1.0 truggy and buggy that had an issue with the rear hinge pins bending. Bought Mitch's rear toe blocks/hinge pin carriers and hardened hinge pins the day they came out. Still have the truggy, and 12 years or so down the road I've never bent a hinge pin.

  6. #86
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    New to me Revo

    Never mind I got it. Easy fix

    So I got the hobbystar servo installed for the steering. It moves the opposite direction of normal. If I try and turn right it will go left.

    What is up with that?


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    Last edited by mrtwohands; 08-29-2020 at 12:16 PM.

  7. #87
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Don't know what radio you have, but there should be a servo reverse switch for the channel, or an option in the app or something. Just switch it and your good.
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  8. #88
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Thanks olds. Yeah it was easy. I got it completed within seconds and Iím running the Traxxas 2ch transmitter.

    Finally was able to run the Revo. Buddy and me ran the Tmaxx and Revo yesterday. Ran about 4 tanks through each truck.

    I know I was told this but itís one thing to read it and experience it. But my goodness the Revo handles so much better.

    I do enjoy both trucks but now I am debating on turning the Revo into a truggy. Making a track in the backyard and leaving the Tmaxx for actual bashing


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  9. #89
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    The Revo is a wonderful vehicle. I’ve enjoyed the heck out of driving mine, sounds like you have too. It handles so much better than the T-max or anything else that it helped kill the class it was made for. But it ain’t a truggy. I had a race Revo. Center diff, single servo mod, M2C brace, no PS, started with an RD Logics bump box. Great truck, but I still couldn’t wheel it as fast as my truggy. And that was 10 years ago, truggies have evolved even more. I like mine just like it is. Except for the stripped reverse gear. Come on USPS! Ha ha ha. Really is a great truck, glad you got it up and running and are enjoying.

  10. #90
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    New to me Revo

    I agree it really is a great RC. Setup the suspension a little today. It corners like thereís no tomorrow. Will be even better once I change the wheel/tires out.


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    Last edited by mrtwohands; 08-31-2020 at 05:27 PM.

  11. #91
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Long live nitro! LoL They can be a lot of fun.

  12. #92
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Iím with you grizzly. Iíve missed having a nitro. Itís just so easy to gas and go.

    And since Iím using a pull start. I can just carry small glow ignitor.


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  13. #93
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    Tune was wandering a little. In this part of the world this time of year uh yeah, no. Set your tune mid-May and don’t touch it till early October. Had a small air leak on passenger side where the EZ Start back plate attaches to the crank case. A little Permatex fixed it right up. Ran great, ran cool. At least spit test says it did. My wife washed and dried my temp gun LOL and new one won’t be here till tomorrow. Is it common to have a leak around the EZ start? Think I’m just going to draw a bead of Permatex on the T-maxx engine when I install the EZ Start.

  14. #94
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    The o-ring on the back plate is more than sufficient to seal the back end. The "only" leak that could occur would be a worn bushing on the starter shaft which goes through the back plate. Because of the pressures in the crankcase you'll get a little seepage through it even when new. Only once did I seal the plate but it didn't change the problems I was having which turned out to be my newb tuning abilities.
    The Super Derecho

  15. #95
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    I didn't install this EZ Start but I know the guy who did and he's not without skillz. And this is a brand new assembly. Was definitely a small leak. Could be a funky bushing or something, who knows? Ran a couple tanks through yesterday. Let it cool a bit and re-fired between tanks and the tune held so I'm good. I need to get started on my backyard track LOL.

    On another note. Seems like a lot of peeps have gone to the FOC in their Revos, and I notice the T-maxx no longer has reverse. Are y'all trying to tell me something? Is the reverse in these transmissions really that troublesome? Reverse gears came in yesterday. This is just a straight up play toy so I'd like to keep the reverse, but if it's going to strip frequently I'll just do FOC.

  16. #96
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    The reason there is no gasket between the starter of your choice and the back plate is because it does not seal the engine. The back plate does.
    The Super Derecho

  17. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by Double G View Post
    The reason there is no gasket between the starter of your choice and the back plate is because it does not seal the engine. The back plate does.
    Yep. But no fuel at the backplate seam, just around the EZ Start housing on that side. No idea why.

  18. #98
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjtamu-redux View Post
    Yep. But no fuel at the backplate seam, just around the EZ Start housing on that side. No idea why.
    If it's fuel/oil at the plastic EZ-start it is probably the seepage that Double G was talking about with the starter shaft. If it is the red arrow location, its the O-ring. If it is at the green arrow it is the starter shaft. Sealing the EZ-start doesn't seal the engine, or have an affect on engine tuning. It's just trapping the seeped out oil/fuel.



    Getting rid of reverse is a personal preference. Without reverse parts installed, the engine is more peppy. It's more of a performance upgrade.

  19. #99
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrtwohands View Post
    I agree it really is a great RC. Setup the suspension a little today. It corners like there’s no tomorrow. Will be even better once I change the wheel/tires out.
    If you want a cheap, work great upgrade look into the VDK kit for the shocks. Link: Part#5461. They really add to the shock tuning.
    Any particular wheels or tires your looking at?

  20. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    If it's fuel/oil at the plastic EZ-start it is probably the seepage that Double G was talking about with the starter shaft. If it is the red arrow location, its the O-ring. If it is at the green arrow it is the starter shaft. Sealing the EZ-start doesn't seal the engine, or have an affect on engine tuning. It's just trapping the seeped out oil/fuel.



    Getting rid of reverse is a personal preference. Without reverse parts installed, the engine is more peppy. It's more of a performance upgrade.
    Yeah, I figured that out after Double G's post. I was thinking the backplate was part of the EZ Start assembly. Going to remove the Permatex. Wandering tune must have just been the engine still breaking in, Just coincidence that it finished the same time I put on the Permatex LOL. The 2 tanks yesterday and the tank today were 9, 10, and 11 and I haven't had to touch it. The answer to my question obviously is, "Yes, it's common to have a fuel leak at that spot". Nothing to be done about I guess unless I want to hunt for a bump box and get my Dremel out.

    I remember what my transmission weighed when I took it out of my old Revo. But I think it's staying in this and the T-maxx unless I have frequent issues.

  21. #101
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. olds97_lss's Avatar
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    Could also be the header gasket leaking and dripping down on the start housing. If you have the spring mounted header, it tends to do that a bit.

    I ditched reverse early on in my revo's. Even when I had just the 3.3 in them, it would tend to blow out the forward primary gear. The FOC had thicker gears.

    When I went big block and the 21TM, I went full RRP steel gears, still stayed with forward only though. Less headache/rotational mass.

    When I started running electric, was the first time in a long time I had reverse... was so weird!
    https://www.youtube.com/c/olds97lss

  22. #102
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    If you want a cheap, work great upgrade look into the VDK kit for the shocks. Link: Part#5461. They really add to the shock tuning.
    Any particular wheels or tires your looking at?
    Thanks Iíll check those out. Havenít really put a lot of thought into wheels/tires. Kind of want more of a truggy feel but I donít race. More of jumping and speeding around.

    I am open to any suggestions.


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  23. #103
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    I had good luck with the Proline original Badlands. I never jumped high, but they gripped well in dirt and grass.

  24. #104
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    I’d be interested to know more about tire and wheel options after seeing the discussion in E-Revo section. Seems like tire choice is limited to what you can find in a 3.8” tire? Which means mostly Traxxas and Proline I guess? 1/2 offset truggy wheels are hard to find so I don’t see that being much of an option.

    Mrtwohands, if you haven’t already try the old Slayden base setup as a starting point. That’s what’s on mine and the cornering and jumping are excellent. Center diff with rear brake kit will help the truck rotate better. I think you already have the single-servo mod, correct? And of course a wing makes a big difference at speed.

  25. #105
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    I had good luck with the Proline original Badlands. I never jumped high, but they gripped well in dirt and grass.
    Oh yeah badlands are great. I ran them on quite a few models over the years. My favorite of all time was the slash 4x4 where I had the proline beadlocks with the badlands. Here is a picture of them with Trenchers. Not sure if I have one with the badlands.




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  26. #106
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjtamu-redux View Post
    Iíd be interested to know more about tire and wheel options after seeing the discussion in E-Revo section. Seems like tire choice is limited to what you can find in a 3.8Ē tire? Which means mostly Traxxas and Proline I guess? 1/2 offset truggy wheels are hard to find so I donít see that being much of an option.

    Mrtwohands, if you havenít already try the old Slayden base setup as a starting point. Thatís whatís on mine and the cornering and jumping are excellent. Center diff with rear brake kit will help the truck rotate better. I think you already have the single-servo mod, correct? And of course a wing makes a big difference at speed.
    Thanks I have never heard of the Slayden setup before but I saved a picture of it. Might have to give that a try.

    You can run a center diff and rear break on the nitro Revo? I had no idea. I have a feeling yíall are going to cost me a small fortune

    With that said before I start doing anything to these two that I have I am looking at buying an electric. The time change is coming soon and Iíd like to have an electric to run in the dark and put LEDS on it. I miss those days.

    I am looking at a different brand. Not sure what the rules are for mentioning other brands on here....


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  27. #107
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    https://traxxas.com/products/parts/5414

    Here you go. If I pull reverse I’ll probably install one just to have brake bias. Give you a more truggy-like feel you were looking for.

  28. #108
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Thanks, this is why I really enjoy forums. And I already have forward only conversation done. Iíll definitely look into this.


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  29. #109
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    I have always liked the look of the beetle bodies. Thinking of getting one for a slayer build. Looks sharp!

    Quote Originally Posted by mrtwohands View Post

  30. #110
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Me too. I bought the truck used and it came with that body. Itís honestly one of the toughest bodies Iíve ran. Iím not sure if the dome shape gave it more strength or what.


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  31. #111
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    The body itself made the vehicle "self-righting". LoL

    It seemed to always land on its wheels on a roll over.

  32. #112
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    That Bug body is awesome. I now have an almost perfectly functioning Revo, with reverse that works. That's a sophisticated transmission, congrats to Traxxas on that piece of engineering. And I learned a valuable lesson about the orientation of the cone washers or whatever Traxxas calls them on the slipper clutch ha! I say almost perfect because I'd like to be able to pull a little more carb. Throttle end point is maxxed out and I only get about 2/3 open. Assuming I can just adjust by moving the linkage position on the servo horn. What I'd really like is to have a position where the carb is at WOT and I have to limit the servo travel a little. We'll see. Same thing with steering, turns just a hair sharper left than right. Haven't checked right end points yet.

    Are any of y'all running on 30%? I'm about to switch because my 1/8 run on 30% and it's easier to run everything on the same percentage. At least until I rebuild my gas truck but that's a ways down the road. Do y'all run a colder plug with 30% or is the stock Traxxas plug good? It's 90-100 degrees and high humidity for almost 6 months out of the year here.

    This Revo came to me with a roll hoop that had a stripped screw hole. Replaced it with the below from GPM. Description says it's billet aluminum but I have doubts. The mounting brackets are but the hoop itself I believe is stainless. The design is very cool, the split rails create what's basically a spring so there's some flex to it. Less likely to bend I think than the ones I saw that were solid metal. The only thing I don't like at first glace it sits 1/4" or more lower than the stock piece. Puts your hands a little closer to the heatsink head when you pick it up that way.

    20200907_093434 by Critter, on Flickr

  33. #113
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjtamu-redux View Post
    ...I'd like to be able to pull a little more carb. Throttle end point is maxxed out and I only get about 2/3 open. Assuming I can just adjust by moving the linkage position on the servo horn. What I'd really like is to have a position where the carb is at WOT and I have to limit the servo travel a little.
    On a stock setup (stock carb, stock linkage,stock radio) you should be able to get more than full throttle like you want. Something is not adjusted right.


    Quote Originally Posted by cjtamu-redux View Post
    Are any of y'all running on 30%? I'm about to switch because my 1/8 run on 30% and it's easier to run everything on the same percentage. At least until I rebuild my gas truck but that's a ways down the road. Do y'all run a colder plug with 30% or is the stock Traxxas plug good? It's 90-100 degrees and high humidity for almost 6 months out of the year here.
    I run 30% or 33% fuel on the Traxxas plugs (they only sell the SD-med) or the OS LC4 plugs without issue.

  34. #114
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    Thanks, grizz. Before I installed the M2C brace it was right where I wanted it, about 0.5 mm of slide showing at WOT. When I reinstalled engine and mounts after the carb wasn’t coming back to the stop at neutral. Loosened the collar so it would and haven’t been able to fully open since. Might be enough play in the motor mount fitment to get it back where it was. I know my friend messed with this linkage when he had it, so no idea if rods are in stock locations. I’ll find a pic of a stock linkage and look at the setup.

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  36. #116
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    Thank you, sir. Sure looks like all the linkages are installed in the correct positions and near as I can tell from the photos it looks like the servo horn is oriented properly. I'm going to loosen the engine mounts and see if I have enough play there to get it back to WOT like it was before. Hopefully that works. if not I'll just set the radio back to default and redo from there.

  37. #117
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Revo motor took a direct hit. After it hit the motor revved to the max. I can only assume the motor shifted away from the clutch bell.

    Iíll have inspect later but I assume itís an easy fix.

  38. #118
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Must have been a fun day! Two trucks on the injury list.

  39. #119
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Not too bad lol. Hopefully Iíll get some time today to look them over.

  40. #120
    RC Champion mrtwohands's Avatar
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    Inspected the damage. Spur was beat up so I replaced that. When trying to reattach the air filter it will not fit between the carb and spur. I am thinking the motor mount bent. Guess itís time to look into the m2c mount yíall mentioned. That is the only thing I can think of that would cause this

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