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  1. #1
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    Converting Ken Block to 1/16 E-Revo

    So I know this has been covered many times before, but I'm gonna post my progress & ask questions as I go.
    I've a very old E-Revo that I use most of the time & my Ken Block Rally just sits on the shelf getting dusty. I used to love the Ken Block Fiesta with a set of drift wheels on it, but circumstances change & it's just redundant now. The fact it just sits there seems a shame, which is why the move to do something with it. On occasions the 1/10 E-Revo is just a bit big, which is another reason I think this conversion is a good plan for me.
    Here's a few pictures of the Ken Block before I start stripping it down. Lights fitted & everything, I forgot what a boy racer I used to be!








    So moving onto new toys from old..
    To date I've downloaded the parts lists for both vehicles & compared them & been surprised at just how similar they are. This is the main reason I'm going for the conversion. It's gonna be a slow change as I'm just going to buy the bits as I find them on cheaply eBay, or if I need to order other stuff for my 1/10 E-Revo.

    I've found this thread on these forums that looks as though it will be a good reference. I don't know if DCFOX is still around, but thanks for the thread if so.
    Linky


    I'll keep editing these lists as time goes on, one with part numbers for the bits used & the other as a wish list or reminder for bits (although I think there's an editing restriction on this forum, so it may have to be new posts?)

    Parts used for conversion to date
    • TRX7309 - Traxxas 1/16 Ken Block Fiesta VXL

    Bits still required/wish list/reminders
    • Wheels (Summit?)
    • Body Shell (Maybe matched my 1/10 scale)
    • Front Arms (RPM?)
    • Rear Arms (Extended or RPM?)
    • Push rods (TRX 7118)
    • Toe Links (TRX 7138)
    • Body Mounts (TRX 7105)
    • Bumpers (TRX 7135)
    • Wing & Mount (TRX 7121 & 7122)
    • Drive Shafts (TRX 7151)
    • Gear Ratios - probably the last thing to do?

  2. #2
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    Thought of a few more bits I'll probably need...

    Parts used for conversion to date
    • TRX7309 - Traxxas 1/16 Ken Block Fiesta VXL

    Bits still required/wish list/reminders
    • Wheels (Summit?)
    • Body Shell (Maybe matched my 1/10 scale)
    • Front Arms (RPM?)
    • Rear Arms (Extended or RPM?)
    • Push rods (TRX 7118)
    • Toe Links (TRX 7138)
    • Body Mounts (TRX 7105)
    • Bumpers (TRX 7135)
    • Wing & Mount (TRX 7121 & 7122)
    • Drive Shafts (TRX 7151)
    • Gear Ratios - probably the last thing to do?
    • Better servo?
    • Shock springs

  3. #3
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    So I hope someone out there is following this, because I've got my first question.

    I'm on holiday at the minute and have been looking for bits while dodging the rain. I've ordered up a set of rear extended arms for the rear & RPM arms for the front.
    I've also been looking at driveshafts.
    Question is, should I buy the stock shafts TRX7151 or an upgraded version. If so, which ones please?
    I'm still planning on running summit wheels, just because I like the look so much, but it'll only see 2S lipo power.
    Thanks for advice.

  4. #4
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    I've been running the stocks ones with trencher tires on 3s. Haven't broken one yet.

  5. #5
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    I am still on the original shafts also running the 2.2 Trenchers and about 8 months ago I started using 3s. Recently upgraded to a 3650 4300kv brushless motor and may have started to hear the diff click but the shafts are holding fine never even a pop off yet. Throttle control is the main factor in longevity of drive-line parts.



    With a stock wheel for scale.
    Last edited by zedorda; 09-02-2020 at 08:48 PM.

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the replies guys.
    That makes it an easy decision, I'll keep my eyes open for a set of stock shafts.
    I keep hoping to drop on a set of rods/links, but so far all of them are in another country.

  7. #7
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    So the rear extended arms have turned up today & been fitted. There's a lot of difference in width now between front & back!
    It was fairly pointless putting the body mount back on, but it seemed an easy way to not lose the fixings.



    It has brought on another question. The pivot balls in the carriers have a massive amount of slop in them. Is this normal or are they just worn out? I can't see a way to adjust them up.

  8. #8
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    Parts used for conversion to date
    • TRX7309 - Traxxas 1/16 Ken Block Fiesta VXL
    • TRX7132R - Rear Extended Arms

    Bits still required & approx cost...
    • Summit Wheels (TRX 7272/7274/7276) - 23/24 per pair
    • RPM Front Arms (RPM80692) - ordered
    • Push rods (TRX 7118) - 7/8
    • Toe Links (TRX 7138) - 7/8
    • Body Mounts (TRX 7105) - 7/8
    • Bumpers (TRX 7135) - 7/8
    • Wing (TRX 7122) - 7/8 or (TRX 7122G) - 12
    • Wing Mount (TRX 7121)
    • Drive Shafts (TRX 7151) 9/10 EACH REALLY!!!!!
    • Shock Springs (TRX ????)
    • Gear Ratios - probably the last thing to do?
    • Body Shell (Proline PL3396-00) - 23/24

    Other upgrades?
    • Better Servo, advice required
    • TQi Telemetry (Gear Cover TRX 7077R 5)
    • Motor Heat Sink (TRX 3374?)
    • Parallel Battery Connector (DIY)

  9. #9
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    The stock setup has no adjustment. I went with the aluminum caps that replace the snap in ones and they are adjustable.
    Link: Traxxas part #7033X

    Others have gone with aftermarket aluminum carriers. I didn't want to as that would be metal on metal (aluminum pivot ball in aluminum carrier).

    For a servo the Savox SW-0250mg is a winner. I'm not a fan of Savox servos, but this one they got right.

    For a motor heat sink check out this thread on a modded Yeah racing one. It works much better than the Traxxas clip on one. forums.traxxas.Motor-Cooling
    Last edited by grizzly03; 09-05-2020 at 02:06 PM. Reason: added link

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    The stock setup has no adjustment. I went with the aluminum caps that replace the snap in ones and they are adjustable.
    Link: Traxxas part #7033X
    They look more familiar from the bigger trucks! Perfect.
    I take it you just pop the stock clips out & these screw in instead?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by grizzly03 View Post
    For a servo the Savox SW-0250mg is a winner. I'm not a fan of Savox servos, but this one they got right.
    I thought this was the one, but lots of shops are listing the stupidly more expensive SW-1250mg

    Many thanks for all the help by the way, I'll go read up on the heat sink next.

  12. #12
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chewbacca 3 View Post
    They look more familiar from the bigger trucks! Perfect.
    I take it you just pop the stock clips out & these screw in instead?
    Yes. It also comes with the hex wrench. For me they hold their adjustment well.

    Quote Originally Posted by Chewbacca 3 View Post
    I thought this was the one, but lots of shops are listing the stupidly more expensive SW-1250mg
    That's crazy. Both have the same torque @6v. Unless planning to run higher BEC voltage than stock it seems to be unneeded to go with the expensive one.

  13. #13
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    Running on 2S lipo, will it need that much cooling? I thought the traxxas one was overkill!

  14. #14
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    LoL. Yeah you shouldn't need the cooling setup I have. I'm sure running 2s will be much cooler than me running 3s. The Traxxas one should work fine.

  15. #15
    RC Champion zedorda's Avatar
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    Now I can't say they all have this but all the aluminum hub carriers I have seen have plastic inserts or have a plastic lining so there isn't any metal on metal contact. I would not be surprised if some don't.
    I went with RPM on mine and have not had any problems with them for over 2 years. I like that they are light and adjustable without the need for thread lock.

    Don't think I am knocking aluminum for this part. Not at all, actually hub carriers are one of the best parts to go aluminum for. I just didn't go that route on mine for weight reasons.

    Just offering my opinion encase you or others feel the same.

  16. #16
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    I've always liked rpm parts, that might well be another option further down the line.
    The design of those looks pretty clever.

    Alloy parts are not my friend. Years ago I fully kitted out an E-Maxx with alloy everything. It cost a fortune, looked spectacular, was slow as anything, ate transmission parts and one little bump and something was bent. I've used traxxas or RPM every since.
    Last edited by Chewbacca 3; 09-06-2020 at 05:12 AM.

  17. #17
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    Anyone got experience of GPM Racing rods & links?
    ERV160 is the part number.
    I presume they're cheap garbage and I should stay away from them, but if they're as good as the stock parts they might be worth a go as they are readily available and cheap.

  18. #18
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    They can't be worse than the stock plastic ones. They are adjustable and have metal hollow balls in the ends.

  19. #19
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    I'm just afraid they'll last 30 seconds and it'll be truck down.

    Just won some more bits on ebay, mounts and bumpers, with i think the wing mount. Coming from Germany, but it's not like I'm in a rush.
    Last edited by Chewbacca 3; 09-06-2020 at 12:59 PM.

  20. #20
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    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  21. #21
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    I'm trying to get up and running as cheaply as possible and the GPM links are certainly that!
    I just don't want to waste my money of course!

  22. #22
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    I haven't tried them, but I would if I had a choice between them or stock. I would say they are better than the plastic stock setup. For under $20 shipped ain't a bad deal especially if your paying retail for the stock parts.

  23. #23
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    So I picked up some traxxas shocks for 0.99.
    They actually turned up today, honestly, I half expected not to ever see them.
    Anyway, they've come with a pair of black and a pair of purple springs. I'm gonna use these to get up and running but thought I ought to put new oil in them. What's a sensible oil to use please? About 50?
    Cheers

  24. #24
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    Parts used for conversion to date
    • TRX7309 - Traxxas 1/16 Ken Block Fiesta VXL
    • TRX7132R - Rear Extended Arms
    • RPM80692 - RPM Front Arms
    • TRX7246 - Purple Shock Springs
    • TRX7148 - Black Shock Springs
    • TRX7061 - Shocks

    Bits still required & approx cost...
    • Summit Wheels (TRX 7272/7274/7276) - 23/24 per pair
    • Push rods (TRX 7118) - 7/8
    • Toe Links (TRX 7138) - 7/8
    • Wing, Carbon Look (TRX 7122G) - 12
    • Body Shell (Proline PL3396-00) - 23/24
    • Body Mounts (TRX 7105) - Ordered
    • Bumpers (TRX 7135) - Ordered
    • Wing Mount (TRX 7121) - Ordered
    • Drive Shafts (TRX 7151) - Ordered
    • Gear Ratios - probably the last thing to do?

    Other upgrades?
    • Better Servo, advice required
    • TQi Telemetry (Gear Cover TRX 7077R 5)
    • Motor Heat Sink (TRX 3374?)
    • Parallel Battery Connector (DIY)

  25. #25
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    So a bit of an update...

    The shocks & front arms have been fitted & it's starting to look more like an E-Revo now just for that.



    I've still not swapped out the shock oil, a bit reading up on what to use has just confused me more. Everyone has a different opinion when using the stiffer springs. I might just run it with whatever is in there & go from there.

    Lots more parts still to arrive from good old ebay, including a full set of shafts for not much money. Getting excited now, it's like early Christmas!

    I've had a bad find today though. I was messing with the rear drive shafts & noticed the diff was acting weird. When I had a proper look I've obviously locked it up for drifting at some point & forgot. It probably means it's full of glue & not reversible. I'm not going to worry about it just let, no reason the truck can't start out with a fixed rear diff I guess. Won't good on the road mind.

    Still no decision made on the links, I may well have to go for the cheap alloy ones & hope for the best. I've just put a new carbon look wing on my full size E-Revo & it looks great, so I'll be going that way with this truck as well. I'll pick that up last off though with the body shell & wheels. I'm also about to try to paint up a Rat Rod shell for my big truck & love the look of it (although my painting skills will soon wreck that) so like the carbon wing, it's a definite buy for the mini.

  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Squeegie's Avatar
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    Good luck finding the mini Rat Rod body (3396-00). It was discontinued a while ago.

    I can’t remember... was the long travel rocker arms only for the Summit, or did the MERV have them as well?
    Creativity is intelligence having fun. -Einstein

  27. #27
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    That part number is 5178 for both the Ken Block and Erevo I think. It's listed as an accessory for the Summit, so I guess the Summit must be different out the box?

    That's sad news on the bodyshell, it's way down the list so I've not even looked into it really yet. Maybe I'll get lucky.

  28. #28
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    Quick question, what colours do the mini summit wheels in please? I know there's red, blue and yellow, last night I found black. Is there a standard chrome?
    Cheers.

  29. #29
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    So a quick update...

    I've won a set of cheap wheels. Not what I wanted, but cheap to get up & running. They're as set of 4 Fasttrax something or other, 1300b was the part number i think.
    They look pretty cool in the pictures & anything will do for the time being.



    As a plus, these are black wheels, so if I like the black, it means I can go black on the Summit wheels when I finally finda set.

    This means the truck now just needs a bodyshell, rear wing, links & rods to be up & running. (Once the wheels & all the stuff from Germany turns up that is!)

  30. #30
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    So a bit more progress...

    The drive shafts have arrived & all look good. This presents a small problem though, the body mount bits & bobs were all ordered a week before from the same eBay shop in Germany. I guess I'll be chasing that up now.

    Other than that all good news. First thing, I was placing an order for a jconcepts GMC truck shell & randomly came across a proline baja bug shell in stock! Called the place to check they really had it & placed the order there & then. Fingers crossed it's the right thing when it arrives.

    I also decided to investigate the rear locked rear diff to see what I'd done to it. Turns out it was just 2 blobs of silicon which peeled straight off. All back together & seems functional, but I'll need some suitable oil for it.




    Driveshafts all installed & it's starting to look closer.




    Hopefully picking up some stock links later, if not, I'm gonna some cheap alloy things off eBay.
    I think the only thing I'm short of to get up and running at that is the rear wing, provided everything arrives ok of course.

    I've a few questions though please, if anyone has 5 minutes spare...

    1. What diff oil do I need?
    2. What is a sensible shock oil as a starting point?
    3. Which plastic races are worth swapping out for bearings? I've found them on the steering linkage & suspension rockers so far.
    4. Can you get Summit wheels in Chrome?


    Thanks for all the help.

  31. #31
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    Found 2 more things I've missed this morning.

    1 - the front skid plate is different
    2 - a thread on here has me questioning what rockers I have and what I should have.

    Rubbish.

    Anyone got any answers to the questions in my previous post above please? I need to order up some paint so may as well get oil at the same time.

    Thank you

  32. #32
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Diff oil and shock oil is going to be personal preference. I think I have 30k diff and 50w in shocks.
    I think you got the plastic bushings covered.
    You can get chrome revo wheels.
    Front skid plate is the same.
    Mini Erevo came with progressive 2 rockers. Mini Summit came with long travel rockers.

  33. #33
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    Thank you for that. Perfect.

    Erevo wheels come in chrome, but no to the Summit. Not to worry, the cheap wheels I've got look great in black, so I'll probably go for black summit wheels when I get to that stage.

    The front skid is definitely different. I've gone to the exploded views for the Ken Block & I must have misunderstood the parts list I read.



    This is a pain though, I'm gonna have to buy a full set of skid plates, they seem to only come in a pack. (Unless I buy an alloy one, but I'm not very struck on that.)
    I could cut the Ken Block one down, but I'd prefer the proper thing I think.

    The links should have turned up today, so I might have it functional by this evening. I'll try to post up.

    Thanks again for the help.

  34. #34
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    Your right. I was thinking mini erevo and mini summit. Sorry about that.

  35. #35
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    No panic. You've been a great help.

  36. #36
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    Brilliant conversion
    Summit uses different rockers and driveshafts to get the extended ride height and lwb rear arms
    We have most of items you need in stock in UK warehouse so just order from your favourite retailer.

  37. #37
    RC Champion grizzly03's Avatar
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    You can get the summit wheels in chrome but with a colored ring. Red,Blue,Yellow
    I'm sure if you went aftermarket you should find more chrome wheels.

  38. #38
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    Lots done last night, I was so tempted to stick a battery in & test drive it, but I managed to resist. Couldn't help but stick the shell on though, it's not even cut out neatly yet.
    Surprisingly I like the look of this size of wheel at the minute, they're only a little bigger than stock erevo, so I think I'll try the stock gearing ratios to start with. I don't drive in a particularly hateful manner much anymore, so I'll just keep an eye on temps. It does mean I need a new 50t spur, the Ken Block has 45t out of the box.
    You can see the old front skid plate stick out as well. That's not really annoying!



    Parts used for conversion to date
    • TRX7309 - Traxxas 1/16 Ken Block Fiesta VXL
    • TRX7132R - Rear Extended Arms
    • TRX7246 - Purple Shock Springs
    • TRX7148 - Black Shock Springs
    • TRX7061 - Shocks
    • TRX7118 - Push Rods
    • TRX7138 - Toe Links
    • TRX7105 - Body Mounts
    • TRX7135 - Bumpers
    • TRX7121 - Wing Mount
    • TRX7151 - Drive Shafts
    • RPM80692 - RPM Front Arms
    • FAST1300b - Fasttrax Jigsaw Tyres on 8 Spoke wheels
    • PL3238-31 Proline Baja Bug Body Shell

    Bits still required & approx cost...
    • Wing, Carbon Look (TRX 7122G) - (Stock Black wing ordered)
    • TRX7046R - 50t Spur gear, with sensor housing - ?
    • TRX6540 - Magnet for spur - ?
    • TRX7077R - Gear Cover - ?
    • TRX3374 - Motor Heat Sink - ?
    • TRX6522 Speed sensor
    • TRX6523 Temp sensor
    • Diff Shims

    Other upgrades?
    • Better Servo
    • Parallel Battery Connector - Although I'm not sure I'd ever use it.
    • Summit Wheels (TRX 7272/7274/7276)
    • Better links?
    • TRX5114 Steering bearings
    • TRX5124 Rocker bearings

  39. #39
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    Had a busy few weeks, so not managed to get on to update this thread.

    All the parts I've been waiting for have turned up, which has basically given me a working truck!
    I also had a bit of spend & massive thanks to Wheelspin Models in the UK for looking after me & allowing me to collect an order in these weird times we are living through!

    I've picked up the bearings, spur gear, sensors, RPM carriers to get rid of that awful wheel slop, diff shims, oil, etc....




    Now I've had a drive, I'm loving this thing. It'll never replace my E-Revo, but I suspect it'll come with me when I go out. It's certainly fast enough for me on 2S Lipo, but I might have to play with the gearing a little bit more. I managed to shut the ESC down, I'm guessing it got too hot! But that may well have been me doing too many speed runs at once.
    I'm still thinking about bigger wheels, to help bounce over stuff a little easier, so I'll play with the gearing again if I try the Summit wheels. (or I overheat it every time I use it! )


    There's not a lot more I'll do it now, a few more upgrades to perform, but not until stuff breaks. Definitely going to look at doing something about body clips, the rear ones are a pain to get in & out with the beetle shell.
    Thanks for all the help guys, it's made things much easier getting up & running. I'll put another post up with a parts list, just in case anyone ever needs it.

  40. #40
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    Here's the finished truck, I painted it up using the Ken Block colours , it just felt right somehow.




    & here's the final list of bits...

    Parts used for conversion
    • TRX7309 - Traxxas 1/16 Ken Block Fiesta VXL
    • TRX7132R - Rear Extended Arms
    • TRX7246 - Purple Shock Springs
    • TRX7148 - Black Shock Springs
    • TRX7061 - Shocks
    • TRX7118 - Push Rods
    • TRX7138 - Toe Links
    • TRX7105 - Body Mounts
    • TRX7135 - Bumpers
    • TRX7121 - Wing Mount
    • TRX7151 - Drive Shafts
    • RPM80692 - RPM Front Arms
    • FAST1300b - Fasttrax Jigsaw Tyres on 8 Spoke wheels
    • PL3238-31 - Proline Baja Bug Body Shell
    • TRX 7122 - Wing
    • TRX7046R - 50t Spur Gear
    • TRX7037 - Skid Plate Set

    Optional bits I've used...
    • TRX6540 - Magnet for Spur Gear
    • TRX7077R - Gear Cover
    • TRX3374 - Motor Heat Sink
    • TRX6522 Speed Sensor
    • TRX6523 Temp Sensor
    • TRX5114 - Steering Bearings
    • TRX5124 - Rocker Bearings (4 packs required)
    • 21141 - Team Associated Diff Shims
    • RPM73162 - Axle Carriers

    Future upgrades?
    • Better Servo
    • Summit Wheels (TRX 7272/7274/7276)
    • Better Links
    • Better Bodyshell Clip System


    There's a few things on the top list you maybe don't need & some that I've used other manufacturers parts for, such as the front arms. You don't need a wing for example, or you could run on the stock gearing if you were careful. None of this seemed smart to me though.
    You could also chop down the front skid plate, but really worth it? In a similar way, I suspect you could run on the existing shocks & springs, but again, why would you?

    Hope this helps someone out there & thanks again for all the help people have given me on this build.

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